Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive Interview  with Caroline Ilacqua of Téo Cabanel

The Corner of Fifth and Zen: Neil Morris for Takashimaya NY Perfume - A Fragrance Review
By Michelyn Camen

L’Artisan for Aedes de Venustas  by James Dotson

L’Artisan Parfumeur Aedes de Venustas
By Kathy Patterson

Real Men Wear Roses
by Michael W. Davis

A Rose is a Rose is a…oh forget it. Rose Poivrée - The Different Company by Mark David Boberick

Romano Ricci
Founder of Juliette Has a Gun
By Michelyn Camen

Interview with Janna Sheehan of Trance Essence

Interview with Patricia Namm of Brandy Parfums

Interview with Roxana Villa of Roxana Illuminated Perfume™

Exclusive!  Fragrance and the Arts Series by Michelyn Camen

Exclusive Burning Down the House; The Influencers Speak  by Michelyn Camen

Creed Love In Black

Flowers of a Lost World: Sniffapalooza Reviews L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Fleur de Liane and Pulp by Byredo
By Michelyn Camen

Pacifica: A Summary of Summer Scents
By: Felicia M. Hazzard

Lyra by Roxana Illuminated Perfume
By Victoria Austin

Tom Ford White Patchouli by Kathy Patterson

Septimanie Perfumes Pavillon des Fleurs

Pacifica by Kathy Patterson

Trance Essence by Kathy Patterson

BRANDY REVIEW by Kathy Patterson

TWO FROM ACROSS THE POND by Christopher Voigt

Kingsbury Fragrances Lime Lift
By Kathy Patterson

Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Lexington Avenue
By Kathy Patterson

By Mark David Boberick

Our Favorite SA'S
Interview w/Christopher Lynch

Brandy Review by Kathy Patterson

Two From Across the Pond
by Christopher Voigt

Trance Essence review by Kathy Patterson

She Speaks For The Trees;
Roxana Villa by Tonie SIlver

Pacifica reviews by Kathy Patterson and Pacifica NEW Fall Solids

NEW Bond No. 9 Lexington Avenue by Kathy Patterson

Scents in the City:
The Guerlain Boutique at Bergdorf Goodman By Michelyn amen

That’s Entertainment!
By Felicia M. Hazzard

Flowers of a Lost World:
Sniffapalooza Reviews L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Fleur de Liane and Pulp by Byredo By Michelyn Camen

The Project Nasomatto: Duro Duality By Christine Lewandowski

An Exclusive Interview
with Natural Parfumeur Mandy Aftel: The Queen of Green
By Michelyn Camen

Sonoma Scent Studios Reviews
Interview with Perfumer
Laurie Erickson By Kathy Patterson

Neil Morris
By Mark David and Christine  Lewandowski

Voodoo Perfume by Dr. James

Creed Fragrances & Creed Reviews by Christopher Voigt
& Mark David Boberick

The Pink Room and Septimanie Perfumes

Bond No 9. Fragrances

Andy Tauer Incense Rosé
by Barbara M. W. vanBok

Book Reviews for Chandler Burr
The Perfect Scent

Latest Articles

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Le Maroc Pour Elle Andy Tauer Perfumes By Victoria Austin

In the 18th century, in Parma, Italia, there was fine printer and typographer named Giambattista Bodoni -- his work was called by many of his time and since, as the exemplar of sophistication in design. Beautiful books, exquisite typefaces, amazing sense of airiness and restraint. The type of our masthead is custom designed and hand-drawn by Tim Girvin and his team in NYC | Seattle, creating a perfection on the classics from centuries past, to a new revised and refined titling treatment -- just for us!   Sniffapalooza Magazine Banner by Tim Girvin

Sniffapalooza logo/banner: Bond No. 9 is a registered trademark of Laurice & Co. ©2008

If you missed this ISSUE of Sniffapalooza Magazine...

November 20, 2008

In this issue we feature The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Two- Nest Fragrances,
Le Cherche Midi, and Joya with featured interviews by Michelyn Camen, Cinquieme Sens opens an Olfactory training center in New York City, view the stunning Holiday ‘08 from Bond No. 9
and UNDER THE RADAR: Estéban; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Dominique Alison CEO by Michelyn Camen. We feature Scents in the City: Clyde’s on Madison Fragrant Gems Amidst the Bobby Pins: An Interview with General Manager Rick Friedland by Michelyn Camen and Blossom and Spice…and Everything Nice by Felicia M. Hazzard.  We are also proud to feature in-depth interviews with two artisanal natural perfumers: Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums and an interview with Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery that includes a review; "Cat’s Meow" by Tonie Silver, Yves Rocher Secrets d' Essences Rose Absolute & Iris Noir and a new fragrance from Switzerland by Perfumer Brigitte Witschi, who created the new fragrance "edelweiss".

We share with you; The American Society of Perfumers Announces Honorees from its 2008 Perfumers’ Choice Awards, Nature’s Bounty: How to Smell ’Up’, Even When the Dow is Downnnnnnnnn; Just our Two Scents By Michelyn Camen, Parlux Fragrances signs Queen Latifah and Aftelier’s Mandy AfteI Introduces Cassis By Michelyn Camen.  We offer Estée Lauder’s Vintage Jewels collection, Ormonde Jayne’s new multi-wick candle and new release of Ormonde Jayne’s Zizan, Chicago Entrepreneur launches “lifetherapy”, Strange Invisible Perfumes Holiday 2008 and Caron Paris Pays Tribute to Haute-Parfumerie with Montaigne Diamélite

View this issue

December 1, 2008

In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Scentsational Holiday Gift Guide By Michelyn Camen, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Three - Antica Farmacista, Archipelago Botanicals including interviews  & "The Best of the Rest" by Michelyn Camen, Viva La Juicy…The Grown Up Fragrance By Felicia M. Hazzard, UNDER THE RADAR: An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Salvatore Piazzolla of Hampton Sun by Michelyn Camen and Parfums Mercedes Jus d'Amour new fragrance review by Juvy Santos.  We also feature UPTOWN GIRL: Perfumer / Aromatherapist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz opens new design studio & storefront in Boulder Colorado's fashionable district and "A Good Pre-Christmas Sniff at First In Fragrance, Germany" By Bettina d’Onofrio.

Finally, Sniffapalooza Magazine is proud to make a special announcement!  THE fragrance event of the season is fast approaching and the one and only fragrance legend, Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World, has granted us an exclusive interview. We are thrilled to welcome MICHAEL EDWARDS in a rare appearance as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of his iconic fragrance reference books and revolutionary classification system at Sniffapalooza's 2008 Holiday Fete.  Don't miss our next issue for the video and written interview with Mr. Edwards by Mark David Boberick.

Read more about the Sniffapalooza's 2008 Holiday Fete with Michael Edwards, click here.

View This Full Issue...

A Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive
Burning Down The House Series
The Influencers Speak

by Michelyn Camen

Sniffapalooza Magazine and Michelyn Camen interviews Jean Claude Ellena; In-House Perfumer of the House of Hermès, Michel Roudnitska, Mandy Aftel, Kilian Hennessy, Chandler Burr Perfume Critic for the New York Times, George Wuchsa-The Global E-tailer of First-In-Fragrance, Ron Robinson of Apothia, Andy Tauer, Yosh Han, Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood of LuckyScent, Vero Kern and Sarah Horowitz-Thran.

The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams of

Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz ‘Les Christophs’, Nobi Shioyo of
S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances and Robin K. of Now Smell This blog.

Niche fragrance at its best is cutting edge, thought provoking and controversial. These are our anti-heroes and heroines of scent. Some are outspoken, some stay hidden in the shadows.  All are unique. 

Why did the sales of niche fragrances double within the last year and a half, while the commercial fragrance industry is losing ground?  With nearly a thousand new launches  a year, millions spent in advertising, flanker after flanker, what is happening to our fragrant world? I posed this question to a group of industry ‘influencers’ (les nez, the retailers, the niche and artisnal perfumers, the critics, the bloggers, and the owners of fine fragrance companies), who are leaving their thumbprints, as unique as their words, on the match that is burning down ‘the house of mediocrity’. 

In this extraordinary edition of “Burning Down the House”, an unprecedented panel of fragrance game-changers and some of the greatest innovators in the Fragrance industry share their personal perspectives and thought-provoking answers to the question:

“What are your feelings about the state of contemporary fragrance and how do you think the industry must evolve in order to stay relevant to an oversaturated market?”

Their words are uncut, unplugged, unedited. 

View full series of Burning Down The House...

Serge Lutens
Laurice Rahmé
Frederic Malle
Jean Claude Ellena
In a series written exclusively for Sniffapalooza Magazine, prepare yourself for a multi sensory olfactive journey, where fragrances embrace the worlds of fiction, fine art, film, music and dance.

Tales, myths, and larger than life characters thrive in the world of perfumery and this is what makes perfumery mysterious, multifaceted, intriguing, magical, and forever wavering between fact and fiction. In Volume 1, Book 1i. we meet the niche ‘feminines’ who had most profound effects on  us from both a literary and olfactive perspective.

In Volume 1, Book ii we meet a Cop and three Queens, a pampered socialite and a woman of ill repute, and an aging beauty and a Goddess. These fictional and/or iconic women span centuries and continents, blurring the lines between truth and fiction and time --- from the 10th century BC to the Year 2058. These are their fragrances; the scents that would bring them to life and live forever in the realm of our imagination.

Part 3 features Men in fiction – flawed as all men (and women) are, but men who dare to dream, to rule or to experience. Whether they are vilified or placed high atop a pedestal, here are five iconic men who 'lived' in a world long before our own time. These men will always resonate with us and are brought to life here through fragrance.

View Fragrance & The Arts
January 6, 2009

In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: An Interview with Camille Goutal, Artistic Director; Annick Goutal Parfums, By Michelyn Camen,we feature the continuing series "Real Men Wear Violets" By Michael W. Davis and The Scent of a Woman: Verno Kern’s Rubj" by Michelyn Camen. We continue this issue with "Milieu…The Fragrance for the New Year" By: Felicia M. Hazzard and "An Old Chypre Recipe Reborn; Aedes Attains A Class Act With Une Histoire De Chypre" By Barbara vanBok.  We also offer the press release for the NEW Bond No. 9 BROOKLYN fragrance and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews New York City Perfumer Alexis Karl of Scent by Alexis, we introduce two new products; the new release of PureDistance Parfume and a Puredistance Perfume Lounge opens in Vienna, we close out with ExfoliShave.

January 13: Due to the overwhelming response to our interview with Camille Goutal, Ms. Goutal has expanded her interview and in this edition reveals many new personal insights.

View this issue
Camille Goutal

DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae
photo credit: Zenobia Barlow
January 19, 2009

In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: Jean-Claude Ellena Réinventés Vanilla; Hermès Hermessence Introduces Vanille Galante By Michelyn Camen, Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Exclusive Interview and breaking news item with Ms. DelRae Roth CEO, Creative Director of Parfums DelRae as she speaks of the latest fragrance Emotionelle with Michel Roudnitska By Michelyn Camen.  We also feature The Magical Allure of Fragrances in Fairyland, A Perfume Review By Felicia M. Hazzard, Campos di Ibizia Reviews by Kathy Patterson, Another Birthday? Wear Grapefruit By Michelyn Camen,  Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Trina Lewis Natural Perfumer, Founder and Director of HipLilly Aroma Couture™ and we finish this issue with The Allure of Amber by Michelyn Camen.

View this full issue

February 1, 2009

In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive:
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others By Michelyn Camen that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'. Michelyn Camen interviewsSymine Salimpour, Founder and Owner of Hors Là Monde as she also introduces Lady Shiloh, Real Men Wear Michael Davis
and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Mercedes Ganon of Parfums
Mercedes Jus D’ Amour.

We feature Crazylibellule and the Poppies L’eau de Crazy Cologne, Diptyque opens new a boutique in New York City with exclusive Diptyque Roses Candle and you can Take an Olfactive Journey with Sue Phillips of  Scenterprises/Perfume Studio. We offer to our readers Ginestet: Gets Sweeter With Time; The History, The Fragrance, The Aroma By Felicia M. Hazzard, Love Notes By Michelyn Camen, Kingsbury Fragrances Twilight Rose review By Raphaella Barkley, Ron Robinson introduces Pearl Eau De Parfum by Apothia Los Angeles and Ajne offers us Aphrodite honoring The Goddess of Love and for the men; Adonis.  We close with The Naturals: Sniffapalooza Magazines Interview with Natural Perfumer Lisa Fong of Artemisia Natural Perfumes.

View full issue

Mercedes Ganon
Symine Salimpour

Click to visit Purrfumery
October 18, 2008

Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City

In this huge and special issue we continue to feature the spectacular must-see series titled Burning Down the House by Michelyn Camen: The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited with The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams talk to Sniffapalooza Magazine.  The House sizzles in this issue. 

We feature an interview with Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of GIVAUDAN, Sniffapalooza Magazine exclusive interview with Dr. Avery Gilbert; Olfaction expert and Scientist, interview with Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian by Michelyn Camen, Interview with Jessica Dunne of Ellie and Ellie Nuit by perfumer Michel Roudnitska, a feature on Téo Cabanel at Henri Bendel,  Michael Davis tells us why "Real Men Wear Roses, Interview with Cathy Gins of Aromawear, Bringing Sexy Back By Michelyn Camen, Interview with Sarah Barton King of The Pink Room and a Halloween article by James Dotson titled Perfumes of the Dead and finally a beautiful poem, Love Among the Spices by Michelyn Camen and Michael W. Davis and Ralph Lauren's NOTORIOUS.

Sniffapalooza Magazine features the upcoming FALL BALL and in no particular order we visit Takashimaya, Bond No. 9, Bergdorf Goodman's, Henri Bendel, Aedes de Venustas, Lafco NY and much more.  Each feature is full of information, perfumers, fragrances and interviews. 

Each article is full of photographs, so scroll down, click away, have fun and welcome to this special issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine Fall Ball.

Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City issue you can view it here, in its entirety...

Aurélien Guichard
Thierry Wasser
November 9, 2008

In this issue we feature the finale of the spectacular must read series titled Burning Down the House by Michelyn Camen: The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited. Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz ‘Les Christophes’, Nobi Shioyo of S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances and Robin K. of Now Smell This blog. The House continues to sizzle in this issue. We offer a warm welcome to Nathan Branch with his new article How Men Can Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Unisex Fragrance or "Gee, You Smell Terrific!"Michelyn Camen introduces us to a new release from CREED - ‘LES FLORALIES’ which debuts in December, Michelyn Camen's new series debuts with Under the Radar: Cereus Pour Homme and Pour Femme and features an Exclusive Interview with Bill Rosenbaum, President, CB I Hate Perfume: Burning Leaves Autumnal Magic by Michael W. Davis, Pacifica Holiday Gifts Holiday 2008 Guide, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part One- BURN Candles, Saint Parfum Authentic Parfumeur and Amourelle Paris By Michelyn Camen and NEC-scent-SARY Luxuries By Michelyn Camen, we introduce MUSIsCent, the first perfumed Album from musician Laurent Assoulen.

Sniffapalooza Magazine also Interviews Kedra Hart of Opus Oils, a fascinating look into her life and fragrances.  We share with you an upcoming event in New York City featuring Chandler Burr from the New York Times and we are extremely proud to debut a new fragrance from Parfums Mercedes exclusive at Lucky Scent. Cathy Gins of Aromawear shares holiday information and a great idea for perfumistas and Juvy Santos enchants us with her "Sniffapalooza-thon" of the Fall Ball. We finish this issue with a link to many wonderful photographs from the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball from photographer and friend Michael Friedlander.
If you missed the huge Sniffapalooza Magazine FALL BALL NEW YORK CITY issue, full of exclusive photographs, reviews, article and interviews; you can view it in it's entirety.  Please note that we have gone to a new format/layout for your viewing pleasure so please click on each section to view full page and each article. 

View this issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine...

Marie-Helene Rogeon
December 15, 2008

In this issue we feature "Fragrance for the Designated Driver: ‘Spritzers’ That Leave Us Giddy" By Michelyn Camen, we welcome a new guest contributor, Elena Vosnaki features a in-depth article "Jean Claude Ellena Is All About The Dirt!", "A Holiday Treat, an interview with the incomparable Monsieur Olivier Creed by Michelyn Camen, "A Tale of Two Cities: Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne" By Michael W. Davis and we feature the continuing series UNDER THE RADAR: Red Flower; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Founder and Owner,
Yael Alkalay by Michelyn Camen.

We continue this issue with Voluspa Floraison Collection: The Fragrances of Luxurious and Faraway Places By Felicia M. Hazzard, a new Bond No. 9 release called  Boca, Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview the well-known Dominique Dubrana; Composer Perfumer of the Italian company La Via del Profumo, we offer a very warm welcome to John E. Smith, an author and herbalist with his article "Attars -Fragrances Of The Soul" and Bergdorf Blends Ajne for Blokes and finally, we end with my favorite "Christmas Present Fragrant Picks".  We close out this issue with some photographs from the Sniffapalooza Holiday Fete last weekend in New York City with Michael Edwards and watch for our exclusive interview coming soon!

View this issue

Jean Claude Ellena
Monsieur Olivier Creed
March 1, 2009

In this issue we feature the upcoming Sniffapalooza Fragrance Fair in Germany on
March 20th - 22nd, 2009 in Düsseldorf and Cologne Germany, upcoming event PERFUME EXPO AMERICA 2009 in New York City, Bond No. 9 Announces Bottle Design Contest, Orange Blossom-The Other White Flower By Michelyn Camen, New fragrance release: Burren Perfumery, Over 35 years of luck in Ireland By Felicia M. Hazzard and we feature Comforting Scents for Uncomfortable Times By Michelyn Camen.

We also feature information about C-THRU, a new fragrance collection for young women, new fragrance release Fleur d’ Amour by Sylvie Beljanski, we give a warm welcome to new contributor Alisa Shorago with her Kristen Michèle Parfumeur’s Épice Orientale Fragrance Review, new fragrance Diesel For Life Unlimited, Estée Lauder introduces Bronze Goddess Fragrance, Beauty, Skincare and Lip Gloss Collection, Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz adds three new 'Aroma-Color' perfumes to Parfums des Beaux Arts Limited Edition Collection called TRUE COLORS and Regal, Remarkable and Romantic, The Reputation of Espiègle by Guepard By Felicia M. Hazzard.  We also feature Raphaella's Roses Part Two and Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Natural Perfumer Persephenie

View this issue

February 12, 2009

In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Perfumer Kristen Michèle of Kristen Michèle Parfumeur, an in-depth article about melon in fragrances called "Niche Meloncholy" By Elena Vosnaki, upcoming Guerlain releases,  Love the Key to Life by Michelyn Camen and Parfums des Beaux Arts: A Gallery of Masterpieces featuring Dawn Spencer Hurwitz By Felicia M. Hazzard.

We also feature Raphaella's Roses, Ormonde Jayne now offers initial engraved bottles, online boutique Mio Mia is offering a free sample offer; Estée Lauder shows us Valentine’s Day Gifts, Viva La Ajne hits Las Vegas and Sniffapalooza Magazine features "The Naturals" with an interview with Julie Longyear of Irie Star/Blissoma.

If you missed our last Valentines Day issue view here
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others By Michelyn Camen that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'.

View this full issue

Kristen Michèle

Color Me!
Design Me!
Dream Me!
Bond No. 9 Me
Avery Gilbert
March 15, 2009

Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Issue, a Spectacular Fragrant Feast!

In this special Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Issue, we feature four breaking news items. Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusives...  Turtle Bay SPAfumerie will introduce the re-launch of Futur de Robert Piguet during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling and we include a special note from Joe Garces, President of Robert Piguet Parfums, Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive; NEW Amouage Ubar will be unveiled during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling April 4 and 5th, 2009 at Bergdorf Goodman's and Aedes De Venustas. Christopher Chong, Amouage Creative Director and David Crickmore, CEO of Amouage will be there with Marlena Egan from EM Distribution to introduce the fragrance to Sniffapalooza members.

Aedes De Venustas to launch the newest fragrance Amouage Ubar as well as the new Molinard 160 with special guest; Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard, Owner of Molinard and Sabine Hernandez. Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard will attend both Henri Bendel and Aedes De Venustas to unveil 160, Molinard's New Anniversary fragrance. 160 The New Molinard Fragrance will be showcased in "avant-premiere' during the Sniffapalooza Spring Fling Event, April 4th, 2009 and will be released this summer.

In this issue, we feature an Interview with Roberto Ferreira from the House of Creed that include Creed Reviews For The Men by Christopher Voigt and Mark David Boberick and Reviews For Women, Real Men Wear...Lavender featuring Creed Royal Scottish Lavender by Michael W. Davis, we feature a very special DSH Perfume: The Road Less Traveled And What You Can Find There By Christine Lewandowski with comments by Sofia Lewandowski. We continue with a Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview By Raphaella with Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz as she talks about fragrance and inspiration.  We feature the itinerary/schedule of events for the upcoming Sniffapalooza Spring Fling in New York City, Pretty in the City; The Paradox of Pretty By Michelyn Camen, Bond No. 9 Astor Place:Mesmerizing New Eau de Parfum which includes the exclusive news of the Pre-Sniff Party of the new Bond No. 9 Astor Place at Bond No. 9 during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling!  We offer Bond No. 9 Fragrance Reviews of Brooklyn and Boca By Kathy Patterson and we are proud to feature the very beautiful Lisa Hoffman: Wife, Mother and Perfumer with a Mission, A Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview By Felicia M. Hazzard
Read about KILIAN’S latest temptation, travel sprays for men and women, Hanae Mori Parfums Contest Winner, Guerlain new releases, Aedes De Venustas newest releases, GREENWITCH: In Honor to the White Lady, A Green Chypre Perfume By Roxana Villa, upcoming event at Turtle Bay SPAfumerie, review of Annick Goutal Un Matin D’Orage by Diane Artzberger, ONDE By Michelyn Camen, Gump's San Francisco NEW fragrance called Baroque Pearl, SCENTS FOR THE MIND: The Attars of Asia By John E Smith and finally end with Celebrity Fragrant Watch!

View this full special issue!

Sniffapalooza Magazine
Sniffapalooza Magazine
Kilian Hennessy
All rights reserved 2006-2009.  All content belongs to Sniffapalooza Magazine.

All articles by individual writers and contributors, understand and agree that each article that is accepted by the Editor for publication; becomes the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for the sole purpose of publication for Sniffapalooza Magazine. Articles may be archived for permanent use on the web site for Sniffapalooza Magazine and for future issues.  All articles remain the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for display purposes only.

April 15, 2009

In this special issue, we feature The Perfume of the Wind: An Interview With Jean-Claude Ellena with an Introduction by Michel Roudnitska By Michelyn Camen.

We also feature Niche, Nicher, Nichest: In Two Verses featuring interviews with Ralf Schwieger, Andy Tauer, Antonia Bellanca, Ron Robinson, Ulrich Lang, Gerald Ghislain, Beth Terry, Maria McElroy and Liz Zorn,
By Michelyn Camen, Roxana Villa’s Vespertina, An Illuminated Perfume by Trish Vawter and Hilde Soliani Parfums: A Collection That Commands The Spotlight By Felicia M. Hazzard. 

We feature a new fragrance review; Parfums MDCI Peche Cardinal By Diane Artzberger, Sue Phillips and Bloomingdale's Presents Exclusive Custom Perfume Event at Roosevelt Field, NY, SNIFFAPALOOZA  UND DIE 1. DEUTSCHE DUFTMESSE IN DÜSSELDORF in German or Sniffapalooza and the First German Fragrance Fair in Dusseldorf By Manuela Pfannes-Völkel, Scents in the City: Fragrance: The Plaza Beauty Store by Warren Tricomi By Michelyn Camen and we close with Living Perfume: The Natural Alchemy of Mandy Aftel at Henri Bendel.


Jean-Claude Ellena
May 1, 2009

The Fragrance Foundation and the 2009 Fifi Awards recently announced the
Top Five finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 BlogSniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the TOP FIVE finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog.
In this issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine you can NOW VOTE in the FiFi Awards "Favorite Fragrances of 2009" in all Top 8 categories for men and women.  The Fragrance Foundation presents the famous FiFi Awards, the 'Oscars' of the fragrance industry. 

We also feature "Perfumes in Dialogue with One Another" By Elena Vosnaki,  "London Calling; Czech and Speake No. 88 & Frankincense and Myrrh" Fragrance Reviews For The Men by Mark David Boberick, "Fracas; For The Woman Who's Smokin' Hot" By Suzanne Keller, Ormonde Jayne Special Sniffapalooza Magazine Champaca Offer, "Calè Fragranze d'Autore; Perfume: The Embodiment of a Story" By Bettina d'Onofrio, Bond-No. 9 offers a Mother’s Day Raffle, Verveine by Molinard offers a Mother's Day Charity Event with Sniffapalooza, "Cherry Blossom; The Peace And Quiet Of An Earthly Existence" By Felicia M. Hazzard, Diptyque’s New Fragrance L’Eau de Tarocco and offers a collection of olfactory exploration kits called "Les coulisses du parfum". We close this issue with "Raphaella's Roses" Part Three.
Cherry Blossom
The Peace And Quiet Of An Earthly Existence

By Felicia M. Hazzard

The Japanese word for Cherry Blossom is Sakura. It means Japanese flowering cherry. The Sakura produces a lovely pink blossom that arrives in early spring in eastern countries.  

Cherry Blossom symbolizes the transience of life and it blooms for such a short time but it produces such beauty and produces a delicate light fragrance to the air.  The cherry blossom tree does not produce any actual cherries, but there are some variations in color and it originates from locations such as Taiwan, China, Japan and Korea.  In some eastern countries, the cherry blossom tree represents everything feminine and beautiful. 

Every year, the National Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, DC commemorates the 1912 gift of 3,000 cherry trees from Mayor Yukio Ozaki of Tokyo to the city of Washington. The tradition of fanfare and a parade honors the friendship between the United States and Japan.  This year, the annual event was held on March 28-April 12 and the parade was on April 4th.

For years I have heard about this great event that takes place in Washington, DC annually and how the gift of a tree, a cherry blossom tree to the United States left such a lasting impression. I felt it was my duty to give back to the community in my own way and to be a part of this event by writing about cherry blossom fragrances.

My article not only list fragrances that consist of cherry blossom petals but also the cherry fruit. I love cherry pie and I cannot wait for my aunt to make it for me again this year. I want to celebrate spring, peace and the variations of wonderful and lavish fragrances that captured the essence of the cherry blossom and the cherry fruit.

Ormonde Jayne Special Sniffapalooza Magazine Champaca Offer

Ormonde Jayne is delighted to offer a complimentary 2ml sample of Champaca in EDP strength for the first 200 Sniffapalooza readers worldwide to email

(please mark Sniffapalooza Champaca in the subject line) 

A Bathing Beauty gift box in Champaca for the 201st reader to email!

Ormonde Jayne’s Champaca has been a favourite of many perfume
onnoisseurs since its launch in 2002. An exquisite floral with an intriguing
heart of freesia absolutes and a base of myrrh, musk and green tea notes,
its character is  uplifting and radiant.

Perfectly suited to the warmer months, this creamy elegant floral is blended with neroli
and bamboo and underscored with fragrant notes of basmati rice and green tea, creating
a distinguished perfume of rare beauty.  Champaca is available as an Eau de Parfum
(25% parfum) , Pure Parfum (30% Parfum), Scented Candle and in Ormonde Jayne’s paraben-free Bathing Range (Hydrating Shower Crème, Replenishing Body Lotion & Essential Bathing Oil). 

Ormonde Jayne’s flagship boutique is in The Royal Arcade off London’s Old Bond Street and Dubai’s Boutique 1 in Jumeirah Beach.  The online boutique offers  worldwide shipping and will shortly be launching a special service for US customers with tax free prices.

Champaca is a tiny pale orange flower from India and is related to the magnolia and deemed sacred in the Indus Valley.  Champaca flower absolute is a heavenly, creamy floral scent - both elegant and intimate. Blended with neroli and bamboo and underscored with fragrant rice and green tea notes, this is a distinguished perfume of rare beauty.

- Top: Neroli, pink pepper and bamboo
- Heart: Champaca and freesia absolutes, basmati notes
- Base: Myrrh, green tea notes and musk

Ormonde Jayne now offers Initial Engraved Bottles for Mother's Day!

Ormonde Jayne will engrave your mother's initials onto the gold
and glass stopper of our pure parfum collection and have it delivered
to your door in a beautiful shagreen box. A gesture that would not
only look wonderful on the dressing table but would also be the
perfect start to her special day.  Parfum with personalised engraving
and available in all ladies scents.

Try Osmanthus Absolute, a beautifully composed uplifting perfume with
golden citrus notes…intense yet uncomplicated with notes of pomello,
pimento, vetiver and water lilly.

Visit Ormonde Jayne

Perfumes in Dialogue with One Another

By Elena Vosnaki
If perfumes have voices ~some huskily seductive, some crystal-shattering, and others
yet melodiously insistent~ it is not enough to question what they are saying or even how,
but it is equally important to ask ourselves to whom and when they are formulating their
utterances. Do they speak to those we come in contact with (undoubtedly so!), do they
tell tales to the wearer or do they sometimes also talk to one another?   If we truly wear
perfumes first and foremost for ourselves, just how significant is this latter internal dialogue?

In “Opera aperta”, Umberto Eco argued that literary texts are fields of meaning, rather than
strings of meaning. He proposed therefore that texts are open and internally dynamic, thus
deeply engaging from a psychological point of view. Literature works repressing potential
understanding to a single, unequivocal line are the least rewarding, according to this view,
while those that are most open and most “active” between mind and society are the most lively ~and ultimately much
more satisfying too! In my turn I am arguing that perfumes are not different than literature oeuvres in that scope and that in fact the elective affinities between them provide immense satisfaction of the cerebral as well as the sensory. And although the assessment of perfumes in terms of their psychological subtexts and their historical background is not uncommon, the study of their “language” and semiotics entering into the context of perfumery is less usual. To further this idea I should bring into the discussion a literary term: intertextuality!

What is intertextuality in relation to perfumes?

Intertextuality is the shaping of texts' meanings by other texts. It is what Umberto Eco refers to
when saying “books speak of other books”. It can therefore have a dual meaning: refer to an
author’s transformation of a prior text into a new creation or to a reader’s referencing of one text
in reading another. In other words, meaning is not transferred directly from writer to
reader but instead is mediated through, or filtered by, “codes” imparted to the writer and reader
by other texts.  For all purposes we are not occupying ourselves with derivative and unimaginative
fragrant projects which walk on well-trodden paths for the sake of marketability; but on deliberately
referencing artworks which, like spirits hiding between well-bound leather covers, come out of their
incarceration upon our opening the door and converse with gusto to one another. Decoding them
is fun like watching an episode of “The Simpsons” or “Buffy the Vampire Slayer”, but also
intellectually stimulating like reading “Foucault’s Pendulum” and assessing how much the Great
Pyramid and the common kiosk have in common. (More than you’d expect, but you would be
nudged into finding out for yourselves by reading it, if you haven’t already). Do we interpret Joyce’s
Ulysses” as a modernist exploration of the novel, as a response to the epic tradition, as part
of some other conversation, or as part of all of these conversations at once? Is Arturo Pérez-Reverte’s
witty intertextual thriller “El Club Dumas” more enjoyable because it prompts us to revisit the
French writer? And is there some degree of intellectual vanity at play, a flush of pride when you
recognize an allusion? I am certain that there is!

A classic revered is a modern inspired!

If we consider perfume creation as authoring ~and indeed several perfumers and perfume enthusiasts
consider it as such~ and if Süskind’s “Das Pafum” novel is full of intertextuality, then the theory could
be applied in fragrances themselves as well in both its meanings.  Just think of how many times we
sense a perfume as homage to another one, usually a revered classic. We can find two prime examples
of such a treatment in the F. Malle line: both L’eau d’hiver by Jean Claude Ellena and Dominique Ropion’s
Une Fleur de Cassie are artful interpretations of a spermatic idea first explored in Guerlain’s Après L’Ondée
(as is their own later marvel L’Heure Bleue!). The dialogue between the delicate Cassie garlands of Guerlain’s
classic with the fluffy cloud of L’Eau d’Hiver is soft-spoken and tender ~the undoubted modernity of the latter
is sweeping its revolution under the rag: quiet but unshakeably there, the beginning of a new era. Une Fleur
de Cassie, on the other hand, has more spirited one-liners with the Guerlain classic; injecting at once a
carnal aspect (when there was miniscule before) and an increased intensity of the prime material.
Whereas the archetype holds on to the heliotrope and aniseed to speak of the tentative rays of the sun
coming up to fondle the branches, the modern candidate washes the landscape in saturated hues of deep
vermillion. If we attenuate it into more distant allusions, we can reference Cologne Blanche by Dior as
having a secondary dialogue with L’Eau d’Hiver and Caron’s Farnesiana being the old sage pre-empting
Une Fleur de Cassie.

The kinship of memory at a tea-party

Let’s consider also how many times we think upon repeated wearings how a fragrance reminds us of another
one which isn’t immediately apparent as belonging to the same gene pool. Who can smell Oscar de la Renta’s original
eponymous Oscar and spontaneously think of L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain?

No, the allusion needs some getting to know, like conversationalists who have become acquainted and share common
interests peripheral to those expected of them. Patricia de Nicolai’s Sacrebleu is an eavesdropper who can’t hold off injecting
a witty quip with its mellow deliciousness or its very name. Alternatively think of the evolution of aldehydic fragrances ~
which ties them into an olfactory family but also references them into distinct personalities meeting at a posh tea-party
of ladies who lunch.

The whole game is here uttered in different fabric allusions: The iconic No.5 by Chanel is clad in chic black crepe
(but wears garters underneath) while her prettier, sweeter sister is showcasing her own ivory chiffon. They both talk
spiritedly with cousins who don light merino-wool twin-sets in pastel hues, right out of a Douglas Shirk film:
Le Dix by Balenciaga and Madame Rochas.  Whereas the estranged aunt with the bombastic presence is sporting
White Linen and talks about the new and improved alkaline soaps of the United States with a heavy accent.
We could be almost forgiven for not noticing behind her the discreet and elegant debutante Iris Poudre and her
twin Ferré by Ferré, clad in salmon organza (both by eloquent Pierre Bourdon), if it weren’t for the pang of sudden
recognition that seeing all of them lined-up ignites!

London Calling
Czech and Speake
No. 88 & Frankincense and Myrrh
Fragrance Reviews For The Men

By Mark David Boberick

In just a few short months, Sniffapalooza will be traveling across the pond to the beautiful city of London for a week-long journey through British perfumery. In my many years of sniffing, I have yet to come across a fragrance line that so perfectly reflects its country of origin the way that Czech and Speake does. I have written of my love for their glorious Neroli cologne last
summer but I feel I must offer my exuberant praise for two more of their outstanding fragrances.

A cult hit in the United States for as far back as I can remember, Czech and Speake No. 88, created in 1981, is as close to British refinement as one could possibly hope for. From the moment it goes on the skin, the geranium note hoists its sails and holds on for dear life. Geranium lovers unite; this is as good as it gets.  But what of the rest of the scent? Well yes, of course there is more. This is a dark fragrance, one that at first, seems as though it was created during a particularly damp British autumn. (One asks – could it get any damper than England in the Autumn? And to you I say – work with me, here.) Truly complex concoctions won’t disappoint no matter the time of year, however - and No. 88 is no exception. Many would place this scent solely in the rose category, but not I. Rose is there, alright – and plenty of it! But each application is a different journey and I am pleasantly rewarded by enjoying every single one of them. A friend got it right when she said “No. 88 smells like money.” (Figuratively, of course.)  When wearing No. 88, one feels important without feeling pretentious. No. 88 is truly the masterpiece it has been hailed as.

1984's Frankincense and Myrrh is the other Czech and Speake knockout that has had me speechless for months. I’ve noticed that every time I apply the scent, I find it even more interesting and intriguing than I did previously. And let’s face it – that can be said of very few fragrances being created today. It has a slightly resinous nature to it, but where the scent really excels is in its amazing drydown of non-smoking incense. (that is, Incense that is now dependent on Nicorette) There are numerous incense fragrances on the market and many of them smell exactly the way you’d expect them to. The reason I enjoy this fragrance so much is because it smells nothing like I expect it to. Am I drawn towards the unexpected? You bet I am. I thought I would have stopped wearing this scent now that winter is but a memory and there is a branch of cherry blossoms resting in a vase beside me, but in fact, I’ve been wearing this scent in heavy rotation, lately. It has the ability to be just as heavy or light a scent as you desire it to be.

I want to say how happy it makes me that these scents must still be sought out and even in New York City, remain elusive finds. For a fragrance aficionado, the last thing we want is a collection filled with scents that can be bought on every corner. Czech and Speake maintains its reputation as a purveyor of unparalleled perfection.

Czech and Speake fragrances can be purchased online at in the USA or direct from in the United Kingdom.

Mark David Boberick is an Interior Designer who has been in love with scent for as long as he can remember and has been collecting fragrances since the age of 12. A lover of art and music, Mark David frequents museums, Theatre, and the Opera. He is also an accomplished theatrical set designer having already amassed a large portfolio of work for only being 23 years old. In 2006, Mark David established Atelier Mark David, his freelance design business based in Philadelphia. He is an avid supporter and volunteer for Greyhound Rescues and is happiest when he’s designing or sniffing.
Linda Hutcheon however argues that excessive interpretation through this line of thinking obscures the role of the author, because intertextuality is often "in the eye of the beholder", not necessarily entailing the communicator's intentions. She prefers the term “parody”, based on the notion that the latter always features an author who actively encodes a text as an imitation with critical difference. As semiotic is closely related to the infantile pre-Oedipal stage (as elaborated by Freud as well as Lacan), its subconscious effect is more impressed into our memory than the conscious, logical attributions which we place through knowledge and rhyme. Something mystically whispers in our ear that perfumer Maurice Roucel transports the problematic of salty, warm, pulsating skin from Musc Ravageur into L by Lolita Lempicka, L’Instant by Guerlain and Le Labo’s Labdanum all the way through the stripped to its earthier, almost bulby notes of Dans tes Bras for F.Malle. Even if we didn’t know those were all composed by the same “nose” we might feel the generous, sensuous touch of the author’s signature having them converse. But does the author, Roucel in this case, intend a sense of parody, in the context above explained?

Dialogue between a fine fragance and an insecticide…for starters!

Additionally intertextuality can be divided into another two planes. Taking in mind the Danish film theoretician John Fiske’s distinction between 'vertical' and 'horizontal' intertextuality we can segregate between different media. Horizontal intertextuality denotes references that are on the 'same level' ie.books referencing other books. This is what we have analyzed so far. However there is also vertical intertextuality, showcased when for instance a book references a film or a song or vice versa. In the language of scent this could mean a difference of medium: a fine fragrance referencing a material obviously (manifested in the niche market most obviously, where several fragrances aim to interpret rose or vetiver or patchouli), but also a functional product such as a cleaner, fabric softener or insecticide referencing a fine fragrance of established acceptance so as to inject familiarity.

The exercise can be blatantly obvious such as Pledge smelling of lemon to the point of Americans instantly equating the smell of lemons with cleaning products (a company in the 1950s decided that it should be so, apparently!). Pine Sol acts on a similar plane. But it can also act in a more subtle, yet memorable way. Baygon Green insecticide (and others following it) is deliberately taking a page off well-known 80s bestseller Poison by Dior and the era’s “big” rose chypres; thus accounting for several consumers equating the commonality between the two into the “bug spray note”!  Fabuloso functional home cleansers pick other mainstream successes as the inspiration behind their scents, as do Intim Care feminine products which directly reference L’Eau d’Issey by Miyake, the purity of “water” and lotus acting as a simulacrum for hygiene. Fabric softeners with their hydrophobic musks, as well as dryer sheets, have in fact acted in reverse: their equation with cleanness in the mind of the western world consumer of the second half of the 20th century has spawned a plethora of fragrances which mimic their laundry day notes from mainstream Glow by Jennifer Lopez to exclusive Cruel Gardenia by Guerlain.

In conclusion, that Eureka moment of intellectual euphoria upon recognizing kindred spirits where one
wouldn’t expect to is half the fun in being a perfume collector. We wouldn’t trade it for the world!

About the author:
Elena Vosnaki is a multi-lingual historian and Bronze Age archaeologist from Greece who has been collecting fragrances since she can remember and writing about them in various publications around the world. After getting her degree in Musical studies the realization that perfumery is an art-form as well dawned and more formal studying of the fiber of that art form began continuing to this day. To that end she created, a site dedicated to the finer pleasures in life.

Photo credits:
1.     Cover of El Club Dumas via Alfaguerra
2.     Baygon ad via                Other images supplied by Editor, Umberto Eco Image courtesy from The Modern World

Sometimes it’s all in the…nose of the beholder!

In the stricter sense of post-structuralist Julia Kristeva’s semiotic, this approach is even more relevant as the emotional reach dwells in the fissures and prosody of language rather than in the denotative meanings of words. (Therefore semiotics opposes the symbolic, which attaches meanings to words following a reasoning process). It is as if the “syntax” of perfumery holds a subconscious effect which allows us to recognize the allusions within its manifestations even if one is not intimately acquainted with its intricacies. It does not matter if the accord of oak moss and peach or plum denotes the synergy between moss, damascones or undecalactone: the alliance is always representative of the golden nectar off a woman’s skin or the buoyancy of a glamorous epoch. From the wistful Mitsouko to the exuberant Femme to the contemporary Jubilation 25 by Amouage one cannot fail to hear the grandeur reverberating though their throaty tunes; but it wouldn’t be far off to claim that segments of that tale are surfacing in unlikely candidates
such as Eau d’Hermès and Cartier’s Declaration.

Verveine by Molinard Mother's Day Charity Event

There are only 500 units left of Verveine in the whole America's. The luxurious Eau de Parfum in a Lalique Bottle is now becoming a Collectible item.  Verveine was created as a fresh approach to life for those who are energized from their natural surroundings, the outdoors, good health and balanced relationships. Verveine is a fresh green natural scent that has strong notes of bergamot, verveine leaves and mandarin...a fresh, light and airy fragrance that reminds one of the spring air...a scent for lovers of nature.  Verveine Eau de Parfum 3.4 oz: $185.00

Mother's Day Charity Event
April 29, 2009 till May 20, 2009

To celebrate Mother's Day, EM Distribution Inc, Molinard, and Sniffapalooza are supporting St Jude's Children Hospital. For each unit purchase, $40 will be given to St Jude.  St. Jude is unlike any other pediatric treatment and research facility. Discoveries made there have completely changed how the world treats children with cancer and other catastrophic diseases. With research and patient care under one roof, St. Jude is where some of today's most gifted researchers are able to do science more quickly.  All patients accepted for treatment at St. Jude are treated without regard to the family's ability to pay.  To order Verveine Limited Edition and to support St Jude, please e-mail your name, phone number, and address to

You can find all the wonderful Molinard fragrances at Powder and Smoke AZ, Marie Mason Apothecary CA, Beauty Habit CA, Beauty Encounter CA, The Alchemist CO, Four Seasons FL, La Femme Perfumery FL, Cherie Boutique Francaise MN, Henri Bendel NY, Aedes NY, The Perfume House OR, Oui Boutique Puerto Rico, Good Scents SC, Art with Flowers VA, and Parfumerie Nasreen WA.

Calè Fragranze d'Autore
Perfume: The Embodiment of a Story 

By Bettina d'Onofrio

Early in the morning on April 3rd I boarded the airplane which would bring me to Milan, Italy.
Why Milan? The first Italian niche fair was hosted  in Milan. Esxence  – The Scent of Excellence,
a manifestation dedicated to the “Artitistic Perfumery” took place in Milan’s neighborhood
Brera. Sidenote: Brera is as well the “home” of several nice niche perfumeries. So if you ever travel
to Milan you should go there and sniff the fragrances in these stores. These are fragrances you
may not get in your corner of the world. My main reason to visit this event was to continue my
little conversation with Dr. Silvio Levi of Calé Fragranze d’Autore.

A few Sniffapalooza members know Dr. Silvio Levi as he presented one line of his portfolio
during our July 2008 Sniffapalooza trip in Florence.

The two experts in the sector of artistic perfumery, Celso Fidelli and Dr. Silvio Levi provided
the initiative for this event. ICE was the organizing company and this took place from April 2nd to
April 5th in the Spazio Pelota in the artitistic quarter Brera in Milan, Italy.

Esxence – The Scent of Excellence wanted to give the public an occasion to better
understand the world of artistic perfumery. More than 80 brands were represented
during these 4 days.

One hour after my arrival at the airport in Milan I was at the exhibition spot. Nestled into an
inner courtyard, there was the palazzo where I would be able to smell new fragrances and
adore the art work of perfumery. And most important I would be able to get to know more about
Silvio Levi’s own new line Calé Fragranze d’Autore.

There is a concept behind these fragrances which is really interesting. I don’t know what your
thoughts are when you think about author’s fragrances.  Honestly when I received the samples
before they and their full size brothers and sister were even available in Germany, I had no thoughts.
My only thoughts were “Italian fragrances - must try them” and “oh new Italian fragrances.
Let’s see if I like them as much as my other Italian fragrances”. It never entered my mind to
invest further thoughts about why Cale Fragranze d’Autore.

Soon after I sampled these fragrances for the first time, I met Dr. Silvio Levy during the Sniffapalooza
summit in Duesseldorf Germany. It is always a pleasure to meet Silvio. Not only is he one
charming person, he is also the most passionate man I know (and I am sure those of you who
know him agree with this) when it comes to fragrances. Oh and before I forget, he is also the
distributor of one of my personal favourites: Dammuso by Profumi di Pantelleria.

So, now please forget about the Dammuso and the Pantelleria line and concentrate on the
Cale Fragranze d’Autore line consisting 8 different and wonderful fragrances.

Silvio was driven to transform emotion and memory loaded excerpts from his personal stories
into fragrances.

Imagine Dr. Silvio Levi as the narrator of each story. He needed a nose that would be able to do the translation into olfactory notes. It was irrelevant if a nose with this ability would be a well known nose or a perfumer who has only created one fragrance. The emphasis for Silvio Levi was to find the perfumer who would be able to get right into the chore of the story and from there translate the story along with all the memories and emotions connected into a fragrance that then would be the olfactory interpretation. A unique approach. This perfumer was found in Maurizio Cerizza. Maurizio Cerizzia is the nose behind fragrances like Acqua di Biella Cashmere Twill (for him and her), Arrogance: Angelique Arrogance for her, Livingstone Traveller Fragrance  - Cape Town (for men) and Livingstone Traveller Fragrance -  Cape Town (for her) [All Acqua di Biella’s fragrances and all Profumi di Pantelleria’s fragrances are by Maurizio Cerizza ]

So let’s picture Silvio wearing the robe and narrating 8 different stories and Maurizio the talented perfumer using the fragrance organ to translate these stories into 8 unique fragrances. The result is:

Fragrances that are scented poetry in which the passion and devotion of Silvio Levi are captured and reflected as well as the talent of Maurizio can be found and smelled.

Silvio wanted to know what my “story” and my imagination was and what I visualized when I applied the fragrances.  So I told him which my personal favorites were out of the eight fragrances. Well of course as curious as this man is, Silvio was interested to hear which story developed in my imagination when I smelled the fragrances. I started with Brezza di Seta: a floral woody amber. Smooth as silk and in my imagination and I connected a dark purple silk with this fragrance. It is an elegant fragrance and I did picture the classy well dressed Italian woman which would take a walk in Milan. A sunny day in March, blue skies, the sun already out and warming up the air a little bit. Dressed in nice and elegant way, wearing her sunglasses and still wearing her fur coat she would go for a walk. Nicely perfumed with Brezza di Seta that would finish in a powdery drydown and emphazise her style and elegance and just make it perfect. Actually I did picture my father’s first wife up to some extent. This fragrance would suit her perfectly. Sorry for the excursion.

Silvio then told me his story: a girl watching her mother sitting in front of her dresser, finishing up her make up as she is getting ready to get out, nicely dressed she would give the almost last finish by putting on a string of pearls and then giving it the touch to perfection adding the Brezza di Seta.

Brezza di Seta, olfactory family: floral woody amber
Head notes: Blackcurrant, Violet Green, Neroli,  Lavender
Middle notes: Water Iris, Magnolia, Rose
Base notes: Patchouli, Vetiver, Vanilla Pods, Tonka Beans

Then Silvio wanted to know which one was my next favorite. I told him Tepidarium is the other one I like a lot. The olfactory family here is: musky citrus.  When I wore Tepidarium the first time my imagination took me right away to a vacation. A real tropical, carribean vacation. I could picture myself on the beach of Costa Maya in Mexico. Sitting at the pool bar with the late afternoon sun, a light breeze touching the palm trees. I would enjoy a late afternoon Pina Colada and just relax and soak in my beach vacation.  Silvio’s intention was to capture a vacation into this fragrance. The feeling of full relaxation during the holiday, getting a temporary break from the work and all the commitments. Enjoying and savoring this moment while you let your thought fly while having an exotic cocktail on the seashore or on the poolside. Just perfect relaxation. Tepidarium according to Silvio is an ode to being footloose and fancy free. It is reassuring, warm and sweet, pleasant and positive. Its forceful, yet fun-filled citrusy note, bitter-sweet and dynamic provide the enticement that leads into the exploration of this perfume.

Tepidarium, olfactory family: Musky Citrus
Head notes: Grapefruit, Lemon, Rum
Middle notes: Acacia, Magnolia, Notes of Pina Colada
Bottom notes: Vetiver, White Musk, Green Tea

We did continue our conversation a few weeks later when I visited the Esxence in Milan and started with Preludio d'Oriente.
I told Silvio the story that played in front of my eyes when I smelled  the sample of Preludio d’Oriente. To my nose it is a nice incense fragrance. I envisioned a roof top terrace of a hotel in Marrakech. An older building, one of those which nowadays would be converted into a very modern and stylish B&B. My memories went back in time to the early 70’s; to the so called “hippie crowd” who would live in such a hotel since it would not cost a fortune. Taking a break from the regular life and just enjoying themselves in a different cultural setting. Sun set, sipping tea, burning incense they bought in the souk, smoking a water pipe, wearing colorful dresses and talking about the adventures of the day. Whatever kind they were. Down below on the street level the action would start as the stalls on the Djemn el Faa would be ready to serve oriental dishes. The ladies offering henna paintings would set up and try to get customers. The snake charmers would be ready to bring their snakes out and start their performance. The dentist almost having the last client for the day. Well that’s my picture with Preludio d'Oriente.

Now Silvio’s story with this fragrance is more the intriguing tales of the Thousands and One Nights, the allure of the India of the Maharajahs’ gardens, the unparalled love story told in the White Marble of Taj Mahal. An intriguing, seductive and magical world, conjured up with discretion by the trio that constitutes this creation’s bottom note with Sandal, Patchouli and Agar. All three are powerful essences which are often used intrusively and to excess. Yet in this fragrance they achieve such a perfect accord like a well tuned trio of sitar, tabla and violin. Indian instruments whose wonderful delicacy and lightness announce something to come which will surprise us. That makes this perfume the Prelude to the orient. Preludio d’Oriente is a fascinati
ng inspiration conveying a magical story which will then be completed in its unique way by the person who will wear this fragrance.

Olfactory family: Chypre Aromatic
Head notes: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarine
Middle notes: Artemisia, Incense, Notes of Chamois Leather
Bottom notes: Patchouly, Sandalwood and Agarwood

Silvio is a curious man so he wanted me to continue with what I envisioned when I smelled the next fragrace out of this line.

Dolce Riso: the two words made it into my brain first. Dolce in Italian refers to the dessert, to something sweet. Riso means rice. So sweet rice immediately entered my brain. After the first application I did smell limes and apples and soon after a cereal note. Warm not yet overly sweet. The apple and the lime along with the cereal note reminded me of my childhood and especially my mother cooking rice pudding and apple sauce at the same time. What a comforting scent that was. I was beamed back in time. At the end the fragrance became a nice powdery notes with light hints of vanilla. Well I was back in the good old days being a kid who would wait for the moment when the still slightly steaming rice pudding would be placed on the table while I already dipped my fingers into the cooled off apple sauce.

Here is what Silvio wants to express: Rice has always been a staple in all civilizations  Rice is as well a synomym of life, joy and prosperity. This precious plant is the main character in lots of legends. One of the best known legends tells us about Retna Doumila (in English radiant joy) who asked the Indian God Shiva to grant her the wish of good nourishing food for her wedding. Shiva did not keep his promise so Retna drowned herself in the river Ganges. Her grave was watered with Shiva’s tears and all of a sudden, 40 days, later a shy little plant sprang up from the earth wearing white grains. Shiva then said “all the beauty of Retna’s joy is captured in this plant” and he decided to give rice to humanity.  Dolce Riso as well has another meaning to Silvio. He composed  it 5 years before the Cale Fragranze d’Autore line was born. It was and is his daughter’s perfume and smelling it makes Silvio think of her.

Olfactory family: Soft Amber
Head notes: apple, lime, Artemisia
Heart notes: notes of rice, notes of cereals, white pepper
Base notes: musk, vanilla, tonka beans

I mentioned in my introduction that this line consists 8 fragrances. You know the story of four of these very nice fragrances and you are now, after reading about the first half of the line,  hopefully interested in getting to know the remaining four fragrances and their story. I will introduce them to you in the next issue. As well I will give you a summary of Esxence - The Scent of Excellence.  I want to finish this first part with an introduction of the two people behind this line.

Announcing Bond-No. 9 Mother’s Day Raffle

Bond No. 9 proudly announces that during the week preceding Mother’s Day, all Bond aficionados are invited to sign up their favorite mother for a unique Mother’s Day Raffle. The prize? A year’s supply of Bond No. 9 – this means one bottle of the eau de parfum of her choice per month. Starting Sunday, May 3rd, any Bond No. 9 customer is welcome to enter our raffle – no purchase necessary. All they need to do is stop at any of the Bond No. 9 boutiques in New York City (9 Bond Street, 680 Madison Ave, 897 Madison Ave, 399 Bleecker St), or at any Bond counter at Saks Fifth Avenue to sign up. At the close of business on Saturday, May 9th the winner at each store will be drawn at random and the winner informed that evening – just in time for Mother’s Day.

So don’t delay! Enter to win and treat your mother to the scents of New York, a gift that will keep her scented all year long!

During the week preceding Mother’s Day (May 10th), Bond No. 9 aficionados are invited to sign up their favorite mother for a unique Mother’s Day raffle gift:  a year’s supply of Bond No. 9.  This means one bottle per month of the eau de parfum of her choice.

The rules are pretty lenient here.  Any Bond No. 9 customer is welcome to enter our raffle—no purchase necessary.  All they need to do is stop at any of our counters, at our own stores or at Saks Fifth Avenue,  Sunday, May 3rd - Saturday, May 9th.  There they supply their name and contact information on a raffle to be left in a hatbox.  At the close of business on the 9th, the winning raffle at each store will be drawn at random and the winner informed that evening—just in time for Mother’s Day.

Who qualifies as an eligible mother?  The regular, old-fashioned, all-forgiving, chicken-soup mother, to be sure.  But also the career
mother, the vamp mother, the shopaholic mother … any female on whom we’d ordinarily bestow a Mother’s Day gift.  And hey,
self-satisfying types are welcome to enter their own name.  (We do not judge.) 

This eau de parfum prize is no ordinary Mother’s Day present.  It’s a sense-delighting gift that keeps on giving—like a magazine
subscription (but without the annoying renewal notices).  In fact, we have a limited-time special offer for our non-winners:  The same
monthly supply of gift-boxed Bond No. 9 sent to the recipient of their choice at a discount of twelve bottles for the price of ten. 
Enter to win at any of the four Bond No. 9 boutiques in New York City: 9 Bond Street • 680 Madison Avenue • 897 Madison Avenue
• 399 Bleecker Street and nationwide at Saks Fifth Avenue

Laurice Rahmé is our Sniffapalooza Star!
This is a great video clip of Laurice Rahmé ,Bond No. 9's  President and Founder,
in a video as she discusses 'The New York Story'

Bond No. 9

Sniffapalooza Magazine

By Suzanne Keller

Suzanne Keller is the owner of Eiderdown Press and has her own fragrance blog called Suzanne’s Perfume Journal.  Eiderdown Press is publisher of books along with the publication of Free Spirits, a coffee-table book celebrating the community of artists and other creative types in Suzanne Keller's community.  Her Top 10 Favorite Fragrances: Amouage Jubilation 25, Robert Piquet Fracas, Hermes 24 Faubourg, Caron Tabac Blonde, Chanel Coromandel, Chanel No. 22, Parfums DelRae Amoureuse, Frederic Malle Carnal Flower, Parfums de Nicolai Sacrebleu, and Serge Lutens Chergui.  Eiderdown Press and Suzanne’s Perfume Journal

Silvio Levi and Perfumer Maurizio Cerizza at Milan Calè Fragranze event
Maurizio Cerizza: since the beginning his life was fragrant. His father, Aurelio, was the director of EMA – Essenze e Materie Aromatiche (Essences and Aromatic Materials), a company involved in the essential oil extraction and purification process. In 1966 established his own company – Cerizza SpA. Today the CEO and creative director is his son Maurizio, who is a member of Société Francaise des Parfumers and, together with other famous “noses, member of the International Committees for the perfumed roses annual evaluation in Nantes, France and Monza, Italy.  Kandinski's phrase “I theorize a lot but I never think of it when I am painting” made a good impression on Maurizio. That's because Maurizio thinks that the art of composing is based on emotions and imaginations which appear suddenly without any compromises: “they should appear in any moment and in any place”. Composing, he states, has some rules to be followed and they need rationality, but artistic creation, very often – if not every time, explores the unknown. What is out of the rules and sometimes “unacceptable” has, at the end, as a result exactly what we are looking for: harmony and equilibrium.

Silvio Levi: graduated in organic chemistry and after a scientific career in the pharmaceutical industry he decided to take care of Calè Srl. Calè Srl, a distribution company that was established by his grandfather in 1955, was lead by Silvio's mother and aunt. Both who decided to retire and Silvio then took the lead. His new activity became his passion and step by step he was considered one of the skilled and known experts of Artistic Perfumery. He acted, and still acts, as a moderator between the different actores of this art and as well he acts as a sort of ambassador of the Italian artistic perfumery distribution model. Calè distributes his portfolio of brands with a clear declaration about the criteria used in discovering and selecting them. Examples of the portofolio: The Basic Notes are the fragrance houses still owned by the same family and which were established in the 18th century which are Creed and Floris. The Heart Notes of the portfolio are the 19th centery masterpieces from Knize to Parfum d'Orsay and as well from Taylor of Old Bond Street to Truefitt & Hill with their wet shaving miles stones. Finally the Top Notes which are representatives of contemporary perfumery, home fragrances and futuristic perfumery from Les Nez to Humiecki&Graef and Mark Buxton. Wonder examples as a result of his never ending research.

But this is not all about there is about Silvio Levi.
He is also one of the major responibles for other fragrance events in Italy like Pitti Fragranze in Florence, Masterpieces in Bologna and most recently for Esxence – The Scent of Excellence the first edition that took place in Milan in April 2009.

Silvio Levi as well is a writer. Since 2002 he wrote articles for different italian magazines (6 years for Monsieur). He is responsible for the Italian translation of Guy Robert's book “Les Sens du Parfum” and for Maurice Maurin's book “La Sagesse du createur du parfum”. Together with his friend Ornella Pastorelli he wrote a book on artistic perfumery “Leggere il profumo”.

He opened a store in Milan where you can find the fragrances of his portofolio where he as well gives lessons on the story, classification, methods and language of perfumery to everyone who is interested in this. He does that in evening meetings and Silvio loves to interact with the consumers and to answer their incredible and unpredictable questions!  Since 1995 he cooperates with Maurizio Cerizza and created fragrances for brands like Torrini, Acqua di Biella and Profumi di Pantelleria. In 2008 Silvio and Maurizio finally created Silvio's own fragrances for Silvio's brand Cale Fragranze d'Autore, unique 4 hand composed perfumes with Silvio the narrator and Maurizio translating the  words into fragrant stories.  A big thank you to Silvio Levi who took a good amount of time to  exchange both of our stories of the fragrances with me in Duesseldorf and Milan.

NEXT ISSUE: Part Two: summary of the fair with the second half of Silvio's interview.

Calé Fragranze d’Autore fragrances available at First In Fragrance

Calé Fragranze d’Autore images courtsey of First In Fragrance

Bettina d'Onofrio's works in the European airline industry and is a Europen Sniffapalooza member and contributor from Germany.  Her ongoing journey into the olfactory universe really started with the blind purchase of the Dammuso and Citrus Dream. Prior to that she owned only two mainstream fragrances and never even heard about niche.  Now she cannot imagine life without fragrances and there is very seldomly a day without perfume. 
Sniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the
TOP FIVE finalists in the category of
Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog!

The Fragrance Foundation and the 2009 Fifi Awards recently announced  the
Top Five finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog. Sniffapalooza Magazine garnered TWO nominations in the TOP FIVE finalists in the category of Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage 2009 Blog.
The Editorial Excellence in Fragrance Coverage Blog category is an historic and appreciative gesture on the part of The Fragrance Foundation for the quality work on online fragrance blog sites, legitimizing them as editorial vehicles.  If you have not seen our two "Top Five" articles that the Fifi panalists chose, you can view the full articles here in their entirety.  This is truly a honor for us.

Congratulations to Elena Vosnaki and Nathan Branch for catapulting Sniffapalooza Magazine into the FiFi Award Nominations that were chosen for this historical award nomination. A sincere heartfelt thanks to the Fragrance Foundation and FiFi Awards. 
See all the nominations Fifi Awards here at

Sniffapalooza Magazine
The FiFi Awards consumer voting on-line ballot is now live and we hope you'll visit to vote for your favorites! 
You can access the ballot here. OR use the button to the right!   The link will remain up through midnight on Friday, May 15.
The winners will be announced on May 27 at the FiFi Awards Ceremony at the Downtown Armory in New York City and they will also be posted on the Foundation's website. Please visit The Fragrance Foundation's website for more information on the FiFi Awards.  We hope you’ll take this extraordinary opportunity to vote in the FiFi Awards, and let your voice be heard!

Every spring, The Fragrance Foundation presents the famous FiFi Awards, the *Oscars* of the fragrance industry, and 2009 marks the 37th year. Sniffapalooza has given the consumer a voice, and the Fragrance Foundation wants to hear what we have to say!
They have invited Sniffapalooza members to participate in the FiFi Awards "Favorite Fragrances of 2009" in all Top 8 categories for men and women.  A complete list of this year's nominees can be found at here.

Consumer opinion has become increasingly important to the fragrance industry, and we think that's great news! The Fragrance Foundation will also be soliciting consumer votes through select beauty & fashion magazines, MySpace, Facebook, and Iqons.

You know the type: when she walks into the room, she seems to take up all the space—all of the air, even. She is sinisterly beautiful, with dangerous curves and killer clothes that hug them in all the right places. She swaddles herself in featherweight silks, creamy cashmeres and buttery soft Italian leathers.  Everything about her—from her sultry eyes to her pillowy lips—reminds you that the boudoir is just down the hall; but then there is also her haughty bone structure, her regal comportment, that makes you realize it might just as well be an ocean away, for, clearly, the invitation is up to her—not you—and she doesn’t issue such invitations lightly.  After all, she is not your plaything, but if you’re very lucky, you could be hers.

Today I am playing a game that perfumisitas love to play, where you match a perfume to the person you think most embodies it.  For me, the bombshell actress Sophia Loren is the perfect embodiment of the iconic fragrance Fracas, launched by the design house of Robert Piquet in 1948, a year before Loren, at 15, went to Rome in search of work in the Italian film industry.  Because Fracas was launched around the same time that Loren was coming of age, I wonder if it was a scent she might have worn (though it is doubtful, as according to Loren’s biography, she grew up in extreme poverty in Pozzuoli, the war-torn slums of Naples, and had gone to Rome in hopes of changing her fortune and fulfilling her dream of becoming an actress.  In an interesting parallel, Fracas owes its existence to a change of fortune, too, as French couturier Robert Piquet reportedly commissioned perfumer Germaine Cellier to create a scent to celebrate the rebirth of Paris during the final days of World War II.)

Fracas is a fragrance of voluptuous beauty: full-bodied, thick in all the right ways, sexy as all get out, and yet, never easy.  Tuberose is the dominant note in Fracas, the note that gives the perfume its waxy-white-petals feel: for indeed, if ever a perfume stirred a kinesthetic response upon smelling it, that perfume is Fracas, and it is akin to the feeling of being held in the creamy, perfumed cleavage of a goddess.  And while the tuberose is accented by other white florals—orange blossom, jasmine and lily-of-the-valley—that are in counterpoint to the fleshy tuberose, adding lightness and a touch of sparkle, the scent overall is intoxicatingly heady.  (For some, too much so: Fracas is not for the timid, and for those who don’t like strong scents, Fracas is almost a burden.  It is definitely a love-it-or-hate-it scent, inspiring fierce loyalty or intense dislike, and nothing in between.) Eventually, the white florals come to rest on a bed of woody base notes—sandalwood, vetiver, musk and cedar—but they take their sweet time getting there.

So does wearing Fracas make me feel as if I’m channeling Sophia Loren?  Well, no, as much as I love perfumes, I don’t harbor any illusions that they will transform me into something I’m not. 

My curves will always be on the bottom, rather than on top, and I will never have bedroom eyes or a sultry pout.  My husband, when he compliments me on a perfume, has demonstrated a preference for ambery tobacco scents.  Still, Fracas does make me feel sexy when I wear it, because I enjoy the titillation of its headiness, of something that feels lusciously, carnally fleshy and, at the same time, elevated, in the way that extreme femininity is elevated on a pedestal.  And if I feel sexier, well, then to a certain degree I am sexier.  And who can argue with that?

Images: Photo of Sophia Loren (top of page) by Bert Stern for 1962 Vogue,
available from; the next image is from

Kenzo Amour Perfume by Kenzo

This is a journey into the Orient. Frangipani, cherry tree blossoms, thanaka wood and rice steam.
Kenzo Amour Indian Holi Perfume

Think of the Orient at night, dreamy and lavish.
A blend of peony-rose-pink-pepper, cherry blossom, rice steam, white tea, frangipani and heliotrope.
Takashimaya by Neil Morris

Inspired by Japanese culture, perfumer Neil Morris wanted to create a fragrance to highlight the beauty and peacefulness with a hint of style and sophistication of Fifth Avenue (New York).
Black Currant, Mandarin, Bergamot, Plum Blossom, jasmine tea, Japanese cherry blossom, bamboo, orchid, daffodil, cedar, oak, Tonka and iris root.

Sakura Solid Perfume by Lush
This scent is charming and a wonderful representation of the eastern culture.
It is filled with Jasmine and Mimosa
Cherry Bomb by TokyoMilk Parfumarie Curiosite

Cherry Bomb is a gourmand fragrance. If you are ready for a delicious dessert, this one smells like roses and chocolate!
Sakura and Green Tea by Terranova

This scent is a clean and delicate and a wonderful compliment to Spring.  Japanese cherry and green tea
Sula Vanilla Blossom by Sula

This scent is warm and sensual. A blend of Vanilla, Tonka bean and cherry blossom makes this the perfect mixture for the 21st century.
L’Occitane Cherry Blossom by L’Occitane

The scent that is soft, fresh and floral.
Cherry, Freesia, Cherry Blossom, Lily of the Valley, Amber and Musk.

Aqua Allegoria Cherry Blossom by Guerlain                   
This new fragrance just introduced this year represents the delicate and fruity side of nature. Bergamot, cherry blossom petals, green tea, peach, powder accord.

Special Thanks: A heartfelt thank you to Lacey of the for sending me the photo of Cherry Bomb by TokyoMilk Parfumarie Curiosite and Ms. Lillian Iversen, Program Manager of the National Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington, DC for sending me the photos of the beautiful scenery at the festival.  For more info see the

In Black by J Del Pozo

Launched by the design house of Jesus Del Pozo, this fragrance has a sophisticated and dramatic touch to cherry.  This is a blend of Patchouli, rose, pink grapefruit, peach wine, black lily, musk, liquorice wood, vanilla, cedar, black cherry, violet and jasmine. According to Word Net at Princeton University, black cherry (Prunus serotina) is a large North American wild cherry with round black sour edible fruit.    
Cherry Blossom by Demeter Fragrance

Taken from the name of the Greek goddess of agriculture, Demeter is well known in the US for its cutting edge fragrances.  This scent captures the softness and delicacy of floral notes.  The cherry blossom (sakura) is Japan's unofficial national flower. It has been celebrated for many centuries and takes a very prominent position in Japanese culture. There are many dozens of different cherry tree varieties in Japan, most of which bloom for just a couple of days in spring. The Japanese celebrate that time of the year with hanami (cherry blossom viewing) parties under the blooming trees.

The trees that line the shore of the Tidal Basin in Washington, D.C. were gifts from Japan, launching America’s affair with the cherry blossom, and the National Cherry Blossom Festival.
Delices de Cartier

Delices de Cartier is a fresh floral fragrance with notes of morello cherry, jasmine, orange-blossom, white peach and amber. This frgarance has also been described as a "sweet cherry brandy" .  Perfumer: Christine Nagel.

Cerisier en Fleurs

Cerisier en Fleurs belongs to collection of eau de toilettes Les Naturelles. This is an airy EDT inspired by blossoming cherry.  The delicacy of dainty, transparent white flowers, their petals edged with a tinge of carmine red. A fragrance that's floral, fruity and musky, combining cherry blossom. Notes: cherry blossm, cherry fruit, orange blossom absolute, iris and musk.

Felicia M. Hazzard has had a love of fragrances since she was given Love’s Baby Soft gift set as a Christmas gift in her youth. She earned a college degree in television and journalism from Columbia College in Chicago, Illinois. Felicia has always dreamed of working in the perfume industry and over the years her passion for fragrances has led her to do research on its origin. In the near future she wishes to create and develop her own perfume. Currently she is writing a children’s book about a little prince who is heir to a perfume empire. 

Diptyque’s New Fragrance Release
L’Eau de Tarocco

From Diptyque's press release

"Diptyque introduces the latest fragrance called L’Eau de Tarocco.  Perhaps more than the other olfactive families, the “Eaux de Cologne” must be carefully composed with exceptional raw materials. The heart of which, of course, comes from citrus fruits.

Improperly called Hesperides (which refers to the guardians of the mythological orchard from which Heracles stole the golden apples), since they only acclimated to Europe at the turn of the 12th century, citrus fruits are one of the only fruits that can be used in manufacturing perfumes. Their powerfully evocative essences are obtained through expression (the cold press method) where the oils are extracted from the rind. No chemical treatments, heat, or additives are used. 

A collection… Bitter orange, mandarin, lemon and sharp green mints in L’Eau des Hespérides make it the most aromatic. Verbena, bergamot, orange blossoms and luscious beeswax in L’Eau de Néroli make it the most floral. Green mandarin, grapefruit, geranium, cinnamon, benzoin balm and tonka bean in L’Eau de L’Eau make it the spiciest. And L’Eau de Tarocco is the fruitiest of the four."

"Rather than a classic citrus fruit, Tarocco’s essence offers an original twist with the extraordinary olfactive qualities of oranges. It carries the exhilarating scent of the Mediterranean in winter. It calls to mind the sweet flavor of fresh-squeezed blood orange juice served in tall glasses at café terraces in the South of France. Sipping and stirring, the pulp and the sugar mingle and dance in the shimmering sun.  Just plucked from the tree, its plump and ripe. And its color? A stunning blood red!

Highlighted with tangy grapefruit and a variety of slightly bitter Florida oranges, Tarocco’s essence is sprinkled with cinnamon and beautifully drawn out with the notes of Bulgarian Rose. It evokes a dessert made of sliced oranges, seasoned and marinated to bring out all the natural flavors.  But it’s not that simple. Saffron comes into play, spicing up the experience. Or more precisely Safraline, a molecular derivative of saffron used here for the first time. This sudden, surprising note is slightly deeper, less suave and laced with an unusual subtleness.  The grand finale? A woody top note of cedar that we’ve rightfully split to keep only the dry, vibrant core, with a musky aspect for a powdery caress. And a few drops of Somali frankincense adds just the right contrast to the dynamic energy, creating a perfect finish." -
L’Eau de Tarocco will be available in May 2009, in a 200 ml splash and natural spray for the suggested retail price of $ 150 and 100 ml natural spray for the suggested retail price of $ 110 at the diptyque store in San Francisco, 171 Maiden Lane and the diptyque store in New York, 377 Bleecker Street, and other diptyque retailers is pursuing its mission
by launching a collection of olfactory exploration kits:

Les coulisses du parfum

From the mysteries of creation to the magic of the raw materials, invites you to discover the secret world of perfume through a unique knowledge sharing journey of the fragrance palette. Firmenich, a global leader in perfume creation, launched with one objective in reach out and share our passion for fragrances with the world. Today, continues its mission by launching a collection of olfactory discovery kits: Les coulisses du parfum

“Les coulisses du parfum”

A collection of perfume-themed kits to:
Experience the pleasure of an olfactive evaluation as trained professionals do
Discover the accords and exceptional raw materials used in the creation of perfumes
Train your sense of smell and your olfactory memory
Develop your talent and open your mind to understanding a broader palette of scents

Each kit contains: 12 bottles (7 ml) of essences to smell (raw materials, accords or notes composed by a perfumer); 100 paper evaluation strips; an olfactory exploration notebook containing a wealth of information, perfume-related stories and legends, with games and unusual anecdotes to heighten your curiosity.

The first three topics available in the collection:
Volume I, Mythic Accords
Volume II, Original Blossoms
Volume III, Legendary Woods & Resins

Each kit contains:
12 bottles of essences to smell
100 paper evaluation strips;
an olfactory exploration notebook

Each kit in the collection paves the way for you to discover the perfume world. To find out more: Visit, the reference site, and discover… Perfumes linked with each topic, The raw materials used in perfume composition, New quizzes to test your knowledge, Articles on the history of perfume and forums for discussion where you can share your impressions and passion for perfume. “Les coulisses du parfum” collection kits are on sale at

Price: 59 Euros (about US $79)

Next Issue of "Raphaella's Roses"...

Sisley Soir de Lune, Parfumes MDCI Rose de Siwa, Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Pivoine, Caron OR ET NOIR, Caron ROSE, Pour Une Femme de Caron,
i Profumi di Firenze Caterina de Medici, i Profumi di Firenze Rosa di Damascus, i Profumi di Firenze Florentia 24, Regina by Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561, Trance Essence Abby Rose, Ren Rosa Maya, CB I Hate Perfume Tea Rose, Diptyque Opôné, Lorenzo Villoresi Donna, Yosh Winter Rose and Yosh Sottile 1.61, Regina by Farmacia SS. Annunziata dal 1561, Hermèssence Rose Ikebana, Thierry Mugler Rose Angel, Comme des Garcons Series: Red Rose, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Rose Vert, Parfumerie Generale Brule, Strange Invisable Perfumes Prima Ballerina, Amaze Parfum People of the Labyrinths, Miss Charming by Juliette Has a Gun, Lady Vengeance by Juliette Has a Gun, Ayala Moriel Rosebud, Divine  L’Inspiratrice , Eau D’Italie Paestum Rose, Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan’s Le Pot Aux Roses plus much more...

Featuring: Creed Tuberose Indiana, Creed Fantasia de Fleurs, Parfums de Nicolaï Juste un Reve, Parfums d' Empire Eau Suave, Lierre Rose by Parfums 06130, Parfums Gres Cabaret, Amouage Homage Attar, Bond No 9 Broadway Nite, Editions Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose, Aromatics Elixir Sheer Velvet Philtre Sensuel by Clinique, Paul Smith Roses, Montale Oud Queen Roses, Aoud Rose Petals, Téo Cabanel Alahine, Histoires de Parfums 1876 Mata Hari, Rose épicée, Ce Soir ou Jamais Annick Goutal, Les Parfums de Rosine Rose Praline, Natural Perfume Roxana Illuminated Perfume Rosa, Velvet and Natural Perfume Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery Jewelry of Heaven.  View full page here...