April 3, 2008
Sniffapalooza "Spring Fling" New York City!
VIVA LA SNIFFA, BABY!
Spring Fling is here again, filled with world class perfumers, new exclusive fragrances to sniff and new friends to meet. The excitement is high as perfumista's fly in from all over the world to attend the incredible two-day fragrance extravaganza. As we approach the Spring Fling, we also celebrate the first year anniversary of Sniffapalooza Magazine that I created and founded one year ago. We have many wonderful surprises and news in this issue so have fun reading.
Due to last minuet space and time constraints, some reviews will appear in the next issue.
Henri Bendel NYC
Isabela Capeto at Henri Bendel's for the Spring Fling Sniffapalooza.
Isabela Capeto has also personalized/customized only a
couple of bottles of her NEW frgarance to be sold especially
on April 12th for Sniffapalooza members. We are the first in the world
(outside of Brazil) to smell her new fragrance, pictured here.
For her debut in the perfume world, prestigious Brazilian fashion
designer Isabela Capeto wanted something as original and
unexpected as the clothes she is so well known for. For this project
so close to her heart, the obvious partner was Perfumaria Phebo,
the creator of Brazil’s first fine fragrance in 1930 and the producer
of Isabela’s favorite soaps.
To satisfy this desire of a truly innovative perfume, Phebo called in
Carmita Magalhaes, from the French perfume house Mane, who
spent extensive time with the fashion designer exploring all aspects
of her personality, memories, tastes and passions. The result is an
exotic, irreverant, contradictory fragrance that surprises wherever it goes.
The perfume is an elegant potpourri of rare essential oils that evolves from
spicy, warm, gourmet notes of cardamon, bay leaf and pink pepper into sweet,
singular, feminine cinnamon, apricot and Brazilian lily accords.
Finally, the scent deepens into its uniquely sexy, exotic signature with an
unexpected harmony of cool, masculine vetiver with warm,sensual cedar,
amber, sandalwood and white musk. Such an unusual fragrance could
only be packaged in a quirky, exclusive bottle inspired by Isabela’s logo.
The fragrance was created by perfumer Carmita Magalhaes of Mane.
Winner of the Worldstar worldwide design award for best perfume packaging
in 2007, the button-faced red doll pays a tribute to Isabela’s constant
inspiration in her childhood and the extensive use of embroidery
throughout her collections.
Isabela Capeto’s perfume is available in a 30 ml bottle or as a set
of 3 soywax candles. The products can be found in Brazil at her boutiques
and at the Granado stores (owner of the Perfumaria Phebo brand).
In the United States, they are exclusively available at the
Henri Bendel store in New York.
photographs courtesy of Isabella Capeto
Fracas de Robert Piguet
Celebrates 60 Years of Style
Fracas burst upon the perfume scene in 1948. The fragrance masterwork of French couturier Robert Piguet brought to life by the legendary Germaine Cellier, Fracas was inspired by the liberation of Paris, the return to freedom, and the strength and endurance of the feminine character. Today it remains the memorable and bewitching fragrance signature of women of style and a certain allure.
Sixty years after its launch, Fracas is still the most coveted of fragrances; provocative, yet pure, quintessentially modern yet redolent of another, more glamorous time. The scent is an intoxicating combination of tuberose and lush white flowers.
To punctuate this special occasion, the brand is pleased to present the 60th Anniversary limited-edition Fracas keepsake box and collector’s item. Opulence and splendor spotlight this special edition.
Topped with an expertly hand-polished crystal stopper, the signature black glass Fracas parfum flacon is elegantly presented in a sleek black lacquer box lined with pink satin. A luxurious black enamel purse spray (containing .25 oz. of parfum) and two .25-oz. parfum refills delicately showcased in the case’s vanity drawer complete the lavish presentation.
With only 500 pieces issued, each bottle and box is individually numbered and each set features a numbered certificate of authenticity marked with a commemorative 60th Anniversary seal, making this a true collector’s item, destined to be cherished for years to come.
Joseph Garces, president of Robert Piguet Parfums, will unveil this special item to the public for the first time during the Sniffapalooza event on Saturday, April 12, 2008 during a presentation at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City.
A stunning treasure for lovers of Fracas and fragrance collectors alike, there will be a limited number of editions available for purchase during the event. (Suggested Retail: $525.00)
by Christopher Voigt
ROYAL SCOTTISH LAVENDER
Royal Scottish Lavender is mysterious. Mysterious like the man for whom it was created: George V, King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland etc. From the name, one would expect a harmless, one-note eau de cologne. Instead, you get a trip back in time.
Balmoral, the Scottish castle and estate from which the scent takes its inspiration, is less
a place than a psychogeography.
As it was for his mother
Victoria after the death
of her Albert, Balmoral
was for George V a refuge
from the pressures of
London and Buckingham
Palace. It allowed for country
pursuits in relative isolation,
as few of the aristocratic set
would venture that far north.
Royal Scottish Lavender,
commissioned by George
in 1900 when he was still
HRH Prince of Wales,
succeeds at evoking the
place itself: the lavender
which wafted through the
casement windows, the
precious Mysore sandalwood
which scented the soaps in
the royal bath, the vanilla of
the tea biscuits.
Meet Yosh Han at Takashimaya
Luxury Elements Collection
Fantasy Flights-What do you notice first when you encounter a fragrance? What lingers with you and how do you describe the experience? Perfumer Yosh Han invites you to a Fragrance Flight, an olfactory equivalent of a wine tasting that will delight and enlighten perfume connoisseurs. Take an aromatic journey through a full spectrum of scents from Yosh’s Luxury Elements Collection, and arrive at a new appreciation of rare botanicals and evocative essences.
Each fragrance from Yosh Han's Luxury Element's Collection corresponds to chakra energy and numerology. Aromatic Attunements balance and harmonize your energy fields.
The Y O S H Luxury Elements collection combines the art of perfumery with aromachology, the therapeutic properties of essential oils. Each multi-faceted scent is hand-crafted and blended by Yosh using the finest ingredients from all over the world, then assigned a numerical value that corresponds to the fragrance family (such as floral, fruity, green, woody, and spicy) and resonates with principles of Chakra energy and numerology. Chakras are energy centers in our bodies according to yoga philosophy. Each perfume has a specific chakra that it resonates with to balance and enhance optimal well-being. Numerology reveals certain character traits in each person and can be used to determine lucky days for major activities in life like travel, moving, marriage and investing. This collection of fragrance embraces subtle energies as a way to more fully enjoy the vibrational power of perfume. The fragrances in the Luxury Elements Collection incorporate Yosh’s personal philosophy of spiritual connection and energetic alignment with a core message to bridge inner beauty and outer beauty together.
This collection is not just a sampling of scents—it’s a full wardrobe of perfumes. Winter and summer scents have different weights and textures just as textiles do, and a sunny day scent has an entirely different appeal than a sumptuous evening perfume. But these scents do more than respond to changing climates—they also have the power to set moods and capture passing fancies. Soft, sensitive moments call for a fragrance evocative of dreamy landscapes; whereas flirty, playful whims demand a scent that is enchanting and glamorous.
White Flowers 1.41
White Flowers is the essence of eternal love captured in a bouquet of all white flowers: gardenia, tuberose, freesia, lilac, sweet pea, and narcissus. Unlike other floral perfumes, this fragrance has a clean, green finish accomplished with hints of pettitgrain and Siberian fir. It’s a classic floral with modern finesse. Delicate, sophisticated, and elegant.
White Flowers is a complex floral fragrance with a green finish. People often ask me what that means. It means that there are many white flowers in this fragrance but, unlike other floral fragrances, this perfume does not linger nor become sweet or cloying. Instead, it has a green finish, which is like a wine with a dry finish. When you smell this fragrance, you notice how complex the floral notes are and then notice that fresh finish. The fresh finish comes from the pettitgrain and Siberian fir, which give this fragrance the feeling of an immense bouquet of freshly picked flowers. I originally created this scent to honor the white flowers in a wedding bouquet, but it has become much more than that. When you wear this fragrance, you might feel transported outdoors. There’s a natural aromaticquality to it that smells great on men. You might think it would be too floral, but, on men, the green notes come forward and the floral notes fall back. It’s wonderfully fresh, but also complex and sophisticated. I fall in love with this fragrance over and over again because it never fails to surprise me.
i Profumi di Firenze New Fragrance's
Miryana Babic will be at the Spring Fling luncheon on April 12th.
She will be debuting her two latest scents for us.
Serene and mysterious as Mona Lisa's smile, this white floral musk opens gently with neroli and Italian bergamot. Heart notes include a lush bouquet of jasmine, passion flower, lily of the valley and a Damascus rose. The drydown is delicate and woody, with whispers of vetiver and vanilla orchid. The perfume exudes a contemplative yet timeless innocence that is clean, deep, and lyrically romantic--like the "dolce amaro" (bittersweet) reminiscence of first love.
Notes: Neroli, Bergamot, Damascus rose from Tuscany, Passion Flower, Lily of the Valley, Jasmine, Vetiver from Java, Vanilla Orchid, White Musk
$89 Exclusive to both Barneys and Beautyhabit.com
Brezza di Mare
This dazzling new fragrance uncannily captures the salty airy freshness of a pristine sea breeze. The blend was inspired by i Profumi di Firenze master perfumer Alessandro Morsiani's passion for the sea. He spent a year meticulously crafting just the right blend that would conjure the serene magnificence of sailing on the Mediterranean. The scent opens with top notes of Bergamot and sea salt from the Calabrian coast. Freshly picked lemons and limes from the seaside cliffs of Sicily are touched with a whisper of watermelon to create this perfectly effortless scent for spring and summer.
Notes:Bergamot from Calabria, Sea Salt, Sicilian Lemon, Sicilian Lime, Citron and a hint of Watermelon.
$92 Exclusive to Barneys New York, Release Date: April 9, 2008
Anje new Fragrances
It begins with warm sun and the gentle summer breeze. In the distance you almost
hear the Provincale sheep and the gentle hum of contented bees. An intense feeling
of calm and wellbeing overtakes you. You smile as you are enveloped in the rich herbaceous
scent that permeates the air. It is clean, powdery, soft and slightly green with just a hint of
wood and spice. Stretched before you is the most spectacular vision of beauty. Breathtaking
sun drenched mountains juxtaposed by a turquoise blue sky giving way to row after row of
deep rich purple budded fields as far as the eye can see. Could this be heaven you wonder?
The scent of the lavender harvest is captured in deLavande. Designed around a heart note of
three distinct lavenders and set in a luscious base of smoky vanilla almond woods.
deLavande contains the world's purest lavender oils from Provence, Bulgaria and of course from our own spring fed organic farm in Carmel Valley. deLavande is as perfect for her as it is for him. If you feel drawn to Lavande, life is encouraging you to breathe deeply, speak your truth, slow down a bit and relax. The ingredients in deLavande are known to strengthen and balance the entire Chakra System especially the throat, solar plexus and crown chakras. deLavande was sent to Patrick Dempsey after he requested a fragrance from Ajne because Anje will be in his new movie "Made of Honor" which is out in May.
Olivier Creed’s first fragrance is a vision of summer, an abstract portrait of a day spent outdoors enjoying all of the jewels nature has to offer. The groves, the flowering bushes, and the smell of sunlight. It is Vivaldi’s Summer, only bottled. The tart grapefruit opening is instantly refreshing but where this fragrance really succeeds is in the interaction between citrus and white floral, especially the gorgeously creamy mimosa. A staple in many a wardrobe, this is a fantastic, more refined classic fragrance. The ambergris in the base ensures this to most certainly be part of the rich, CREED family.
CREED gave this special fragrance as a gift to U.S. troops at Walter Reed Army Medical Center in Washington, D.C. when they came home from wars in Iraq and Afghanistan.
New at Takashimaya
THE PINK ROOM
Meet Sarah Barton-King at Takashimaya
And The Country Cafe luncheon
After operating a wholesale business for eight years and a retail business in London for two and one-half years, Sarah Barton-King of The Pink Room is now servicing her client base from New York. Sarah originally sold her accessory designs of shoes, bags and scarves into the world’s leading prestigious retailers in eleven countries through about forty luxury stores. These included Barneys (NY & Tokyo), Saks Fifth Avenue and Nancy & Co in New York, as well as Nordstrom, The Tiny Jewel Box, Stanley Korshak, the 24 Collection and Neiman Marcus, in other cities. The client list has included Liberty of London, Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Le Bon Marché, Victoire, Apostrophe, Joyce Hong Kong and others in Australia and Singapore.
Then it was time for The Pink Room to debut in London’s Notting Hill. Sarah’s ‘petite Versailles boutique’ opened, winning The Draper’s Record award for new small shop and many other mentions. It soon became a centre for the fashion cognoscenti, stylists and press who featured many of her designs in their own style books The Pink Room also attracted a visit by Anne, HRH The Princess Royal and substantial press attention, with over 45 articles and TV interviews in the last two years.
Sarah began testing The Pink Room Parfum No 1 in her shop in London's Notting Hill in 2000 and quickly took it to the next level, with votives and tumbler candles using the pure perfume essence. She is now debuting her newest fragrance, The Pink Room Parfum Pour Toi, taking both fragrances into a complete 'collection' of products, enabling most everyone to enter the dream. “I’m a designer. Everything inspires me, excites my imagination. My business is to create products that inspire others to dream. My perfumes are a culmination of textures, colours & emotions, They are dynamic and eidetic.”
PARFUM No1- A quiet, soft, silky, intriguing and powerful perfume, created to the following brief from Sarah Barton-King to Guy Robert, to complement the creative philosophy of The Pink Room. “Imagine Marcel Proust having tea with his aunt in the garden at about four, As the sun becomes more gentle, the old roses start to give off their bouquet, Lime cuts across, taking away the cloying sweetness, some bergamot to give a mellow richness also some jasmine, a little violet and vanilla for the petite Madeleine. Not too heavy, not too rich”. Guy is a genius and became Marcel Proust for a moment!
Top notes are citrus with fruity nuances, Middle notes incorporate some rich floral tones of jasmine, lily of the valley & violet. Base notes are woody, spicy and fruity, with hints of vanilla, moss and musk.
Product of France. A range of Parfum No 1 skincare and bath products are now available. A portion of Roller Ball sales is donated to Breast Cancer support.
Sarah Barton-King collaborated with one of the top perfumers and blenders in Grasse to bring you: The Pink Room PARFUM POUR TOI. An exciting,
‘stop you in your tracks’ fragrance. Smoky, flirtatious, Sassy and sexy, yet with a certain vulnerability.
Acknowledging the great writer Colette, this story is about
the Gigi in all of us. She starts naïve and becomes the
sophisticate, smoking cigars and drinking champagne.
A little coy. Passionate, I want to be my own hero, I listen
and dance to my own inner beat. I still have that ‘tomboy’
inside my heart and now I’m going on my adventures to
show the world the kind of woman I can be, a woman of
the world, what I can be and what I can do. I love to dream,
but want reality. I am you – the world is my oyster!
I love Colette – she looked like her cats. Her flirtatious
naughtiness and yet sensitivity, Passionate about life
and learning. Her love of her mother Sido and her garden.
The notes in this parfum are reminiscent of her childhood
memories in the garden with the flowers ylang ylang, roses,
lily of the valley and trees in bloom the sweetness of the
wood after a rainfall. Her mother’s baking. Rich vanilla,
blackcurrant, lemon, grapefruit. The smokiness of a cigar
with a Musk ending. We all fantasize and dream. That is
what the blender did, with a smile of amusement!
Top notes: Lemon, Blackcurrant, Grapefruit, Heart: Rose,
Fleur de Melati, Lily of the Valley, Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla,
Product of France. A range of ‘Parfum POUR TOI’ skincare
and bath products will be available shortly. A portion of
Atomizer sales is donated to Breast Cancer support
SARAH BARTON-KING is President & Creative Director,
The Pink Room Design Studio Inc. Since she founded the
company in 1989 and created the Orford and Swan brand
for wholesale sales to top stores and boutiques, Sarah
has been responsible for the design and sales of its’
scarves, accessories, fragrance and other products. She
has researched her subject, initially based on the French
Decorative Arts, working with museums, private collections
and her own extensive collection of documents.
Appearing at Takashimaya
New Septimanie Perfumes
Pavillon des Fleurs
Septimanie Perfumes Pavillon des Fleurs Niche perfumer
captures the scent of a romantic garden in a luxurious white floral perfume. Septimanie Perfumes, an independent luxury perfume house founded by a garden designer, is launching a sensuous white floral fragrance, Pavillon des Fleurs, inspired by the ethereal scent of a nocturnal garden. Underpinned with jasmine absolute and ylang, notes of orange blossom, Lily of the Valley, English leather and Iris, and a barely suppressed hint of cloves, it bears a striking resemblance to flowers in full bloom.
“A luminous and refined fragrance, laden with aphrodisiacal notes of Egyptian jasmine and Comoran ylang, elevated and brightened with elegant notes of orange blossom, English Leather, Iris and Lily of the Valley. Designed to conjure the sublime experience of the fragrant garden and achieved with great quantities of natural absolutes, this sonata of white flowers pleases and delights with the aroma of living flowers.”
Septimanie Perfumes was founded in 2006 by garden designer Jeanne Weber. She resides outside of Philadelphia and her gardens can be found on both coasts.
Luminous and supremely sensual, Pavillon des Fleurs is a radiant bouquet of white flowers. Laden with Egyptian jasmine and velvety ylang-ylang from the Comores Islands and refined with ethereal notes of lily of the valley and orange blossom, this tmeless composition is elegantly rounded off with sophisticated notes of iris, English leather, and a delicate hint of cloves.
What am I smelling?
Egyptian jasmine and Comoran ylang. Both are heavy, sensual, aphrodisiacal notes and together they have a remarkable effect. Refined notes of Orange Blossom, English Leather, Iris and Lily of the Valley elevate and brighten the composition which resembles nothing so much as a garden in full bloom.
What was the inspiration?
I design pleasure gardens. The fragrant garden is sublime, and particularly so in the evening. I sought to create an irresistible and intoxicating bouquet of floral notes which would perpetually lift my mood and that of others around me, much as a garden would.
What’s behind the name Septimanie?
Septimanie, Comtesse d’Egmont Pignatelli, was the Daughter of the Duc de Richelieu and lived at Versailles during the reign of Louis XV. Despite being a ravishing beauty, she was celebrated more for her intellect and her support of key figures of the enlightenment, including Mozart and the philospher Rousseau.
What is the image on the box?
A fanciful 18 C. garden pavillion designed for the brother of Mme de Pompadour, the Marquis de Marigny, by Michel Barthelemy Hazon which sadly was never constructed. These confections functioned as a retreat for the nobility from the strict etiquette of the French court. Regrettably, only a handful of them have survived to the present.
Pavillon des Fleurs is available in 50ml Eau de Parfum priced at $110.00, and will be joined by a scented body cream and dusting powder set with swan’s down puff in the fall.
NOTE FROM RAPHAELLA:
Due to time constraints, a full review and interview of Septimanie Perfumes Pavillon des Fleurs will appear in our next issue. Pavillion des Fleurs is a stunning fragrance. There are so many white floral fragrances appearing on the market and as a collector of "white floral" fragrances, sometimes you pause. I myself have become quiet jaded with so many new releases on the market, the majority of them incredibly uninspiring.
Pavillon des Fleurs is my new inspiration. I am so happy I was allowed a sample of this and cannot wait to meet Jeanne Weber. If you love white floral and beautiful fragrances, this is it. You must try a sample and it is definitely a "full bottle worthy" purchase. Truly unique, it smells very expensive and rich, without appearing overly sophisticated and cloying. I have never smelled a fragrance that was so green, in combination with the white florals; like a burst of spring and is true to it's own press release. It smells just like a garden.
Jeanne Weber is to be congratulated in producing such a beautiful fragrance on the first try, an enviable feat that many do not accomplish. It is simply scrumptious. More later on this, as we want Jeanne to tell us more!
Jeanne Weber will also be appearing at Aedes Sunday Spring Fling. (see next page)
Welcome to Sniffapalooza Jeanne.
If seeing is believing, fragrance is feeling. What do you think people mean when they say, “I smell a rat!” or
one of my personal favorites, “I smell a winner”? The French verb “sens” means both to smell and to feel.
This is why I’ve chosen to work with olfaction as my artistic medium. Since breath is involved,
we are actively intaking an experience—both tangible and intangible. This is why olfaction has
a profound effect on us, physically and psychologically. Aromatherapy refers more to the immediate
physical effect of aromas, while aromachology captures the psychological affect of aromas. I’d like
to introduce now a new word to describe what happens to an individual when you smell something
and feel it at the same time (both physical and psychological): trans-aromation. As your senses are
transported by scent, you are transformed. Think about a time when you smelled something and
had a déjà vu experience. It triggered a memory or experience, maybe even more vivid than looking
at a photograph. A scent can suddenly burst through the fog of the everyday and take you someplace
else, someplace extraordinary. A whiff of rosemary, citrus, or eucalyptus, and the brain fog lifts—
your mind is clear.
To achieve this kind of effect, each perfumer works with a certain palette of fragrances, like a painter’s
choice of colors. Only 20% of people consider olfaction their primary sense, so evoking a mood is
more challenging with fragrances than with painting. The scents that envelop you throughout your life
become part of your experience: your aromascape, or inner landscape of scent. Your aromascape refers to your specific anthropological perspective—taking into account genetics, cultural heritage, place of birth, places you have lived, as well as your physical, psychological, and emotional context. If someone has lived in hot, humid climate, they know the smell of humidity, and know the density of air and how it carries scent. Another person who has lived in thin, dry air will have a different context for the smell and texture of air.
Through trans-aromation, you can be transported to an entirely different aromascape and discover a new sense of self. Each Y O S H fragrance is its own trans-aromatic experience.
Yosh is a sponsor of the Sniffapalooza Magazine raffle! Look for my review soon of White Flower. www.eaudeyosh.com
bluemercury Spa NYC
blumercury spa is hosting a cocktail reception with special guests! Appearing at bluemercury Spa in NYC for Spring Fling is Yael Alkalay, the founder of Red Flower to present her organic line.
Yael Alkalay, founder of red flower, was inspired to create a kind of beauty that is not easily bottled, one that focuses on both the internal and external. She lives with deep medical and spiritual and agricultural sensitivity, rich household customs, and everyday sensual moments that inspire the creation of each red flower product.
blumercury will also have vendor representation from the following:
Darphin ,Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, Tentatively: Trish McEvoy, Laura Mercier, REN, Acqua di Parma, Serge Lutens and possibly Tocca.
They carry an extensive list of over 50 brands - most are
ACQUA DI PARMA, AESOP, ANTHONY LOGISTICS, BLISS, BOBBI BROWN, BUMBLE BUMBLE, CAUDALIE, CREED, DARPHIN, DERMALOGICA, DIPTYQUE, FREDERIC FEKKAI, FRESH, GO SMILE, JURLIQUE, KIEHL S, L ARTISAN, L OCCITANE, MARIO BADESCU, MASON PEARSON, MD SKINCARE, MOLTON BROWN, MUSTELA NARS, NEW REMEDE, PAULA DORF, PHILIP B., PHYTO, RED FLOWER, REN, ROSEBUD, SERGE LUTENS PARFUMS, SHU UEMURA, SKINCEUTICALS, SUPERSMILE, T. LECLERC, TAN TOWELS, TERAX, plus much more!
See you Saturday night!
Every year sees a new chapter in the Guerlain Eaux Fraîches story with a stunning new addition to the subtle, sparkling Aqua Allegoria range. This year, the two new limited edition Aqua Allegoria fragrances, Figue-Iris and Laurier-Réglisse, have all the magic of Guerlain.
Also new to Bergdorf Goodman this spring, is the new exclusive American release of Serge Lutens Bois de Violette. Sandi Burrows of Serge Lutens will be presenting to Sniffapalooza members an exclusive first; the Bois de Violette which was previously non-export. Bergdorf Goodman is the only place in the world where Bois de Violette can be purchased outside of the Paris boutique.
Chely from Acqua di Parma at Bergdorf Goodman cordially invites you to try "MIRTO di PANAREA, the new fragrance from the Blu Mediterraneo Collection. Acqua di Parma at Bergdorf Goodman will be part of the $25 Gift Card on April 10 to 12th.
Killian Hennessey at
Bergdorf Goodman Sniffapalooza
"My goal is to create fragrances with powers as much of seduction as of protection." - Kilian Hennessy
This is perhaps, next to Santal Imperiale, the most aromatherapeutic of the Creed fragrances. The citrus and lavender make for a pronounced and heady accord, but after around twenty-five minutes mellows and melds with the sandalwood-spice and the absolue de vanille in the base. Ancient, noble and fit for an English king, indeed.
Citrus Bigarrade was introduced in 1946 and, ever since, has been associated with that fashionable pair of exiles, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. When I think of a pedigreed warm weather scent this is what comes to mind, along with words like expensive, leisured, dolce far niente, tailored, unisex, retired, and bitter. Which basically sums up the Duke and Duchess to a T.
The bigarrade (“bitter orange” in French) comes forth spiritedly in the hesperidic top notes, along with Sicilian mandarin, petitgrain and Calabrian lemon.
Instead of sunny, I’d characterize the opening accord as silvery and polished, as in a half-opened drawer of silverware in an Edwardian dining room or the woodwinds in a Bach gavotte. This silver aspect perhaps derives from Creed’s emphasis on the greener aspect of these notes. Where others––Czech & Speake Néroli comes to mind––stress the spicier aspect, Creed eschews concerns about gender and drives straight toward Class. After all, didn’t they both wear it?
Hands down, this has been my favorite daytime summer scent for some time. Come evening, I’d layer it with some Eau Sauvage and walk like a Windsor. It has excellent longevity and moderate sillage, thanks to Creed’s trademark dose of ambergris in the base notes. To quote a line of James Merrill’s: “On the used plate, a wash of silver dries.”
Cypres Musc is like the rich country cousin of Guerlain Derby without the leather. Except that this country is the Isle of Rhodes and rich means “rich as Crassus.”
Introduced in 1948, it was worn by none other than Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis. Mossy and woodsy, it oozes machismo but with a preferably lighter touch. English mint is key to the success of the cypress accord that heartily vaunts forth in the base notes along with ambergris and musk.
Instead of street cred, it’s got forest cred. Think wooly from the waist down; human and masculine above. When I wear it, I feel like I’m far from the city streets, ambling down some shaded path in Antibes to the blue Mediterranean.
Cypres Musc is one of the seven Creed fragrances comprising the Private Collection. It is available in flacons of 8.4 ounces only at $315 (photo attached) at Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and select Saks Fifth Avenue stores.
CREED is the world's only dynastic, privately
held luxury fragrance company. Founded in 1760
and passed from father to son since then, CREED
has served more than 10 royal houses and the
discerning public for 248 years.
Based in Paris, CREED today is led by the
legendary Olivier CREED, sixth generation
master perfumer and company chief. Working
alongside is his son, Erwin, 27, rising
seventh generation and future head of the House.
A house of tradition, CREED adheres to unrelenting
high standards in fragrance creation and client service.
CREED uses methods of hand production, including maceration and filtration, instituted at the company's founding. CREED is the industry's strongest proponent of natural ingredients in fragrance.
For these reasons, CREED has a loyal clientele that includes royalty, Hollywood stars, political leaders, legends in business, sports, music and the fine arts as well as discerning members of the public who value beauty and quality in scent.
The interesting thing about the Permanent Collection: about 90% of them come in the exact same shaped bottle It's the so-called French royal bottle because it's the bottle shape Napoleon III and his wife, Empress Eugenie of France, preferred.
More Creed Reviews
by Mark David Boberick
What does it feel like to walk into the warm embrace of Eva Peron? Spray your significant other with a glorious dose of Ambre Cannelle and you can find out. The signature scent of the former First Lady of Argentina, Ambre Cannelle is a divine mix of elegance and casual panache. This is an Amber and Cinnamon scent that does not compete with other amber fragrances on the market because it is in a class of its own – it is not your typical amber scent. Exquisitely crafted using Patagonian amber, it surrounds you with a veil of luxurious warmth. From the moment I spray it, it is reminiscent of a fabulous drydown. If you find yourself fighting the urge to wear white gloves when you wear Ambre Cannelle, don’t say I didn’t warn you. Never cloying, this scent would be perfect in hot summer heat or cold winter winds.
Like so many CREED fragrances, I can understand the urge to adopt this as a signature scent like Eva Peron did – it is hard to look further once you’ve found something so perfect. One of the lesser-known CREEDs, this fragrance has ahead of it many more years of captivating hearts the same way it captured hers over 60 years ago.
Every once in a while in the life of a perfume addict, there comes a fragrance that is not just love at first sniff, but a feeling of utter completion. It’s the gold-mine fragrance. I’ve long been a devoted sandalwood lover, but of all the sandalwood scents I had tried, something was always missing – it never clicked.
Then one day, Santal Imperial entered my life and if you were within a 50-mile radius – you would have heard the click. Santal Imperial is my go-to formal scent. All of the most important events in my life recently have been experienced by me in a haze of luscious sandalwood, ambergris, and tonka bean – but Santal Imperial satisfies my informal moods as well. For being over 150 years old, this scent still manages to hold my attention and capture my heart.
Is this my absolute favorite CREED? Absolutely! It goes even further than that – this is one of my top 5 favorite fragrances period. It is not a bold sandalwood – it is more refined, more regal.
To go to bed and smell Santal Imperial on my pillow from the night before is quite possibly one of the most amazing experiences I could have in a bed. There, I said it.
French Lesson. Ready? Go. Shev – Ruh – Foy.
Say it with me. Good.
Spring is officially here, but you could have fooled me. Just when I figured it was safe to remove the gloves from the front seat of my car, winter hits me upside the head one last time. In this glorious world of perfume, we can access any season from anywhere in the world – at any time. So go ahead – try it. Pick a season and pick a location and I will try and guess what you picked.
Did you pick Spring in Normandy, France? (work with me here.) In 1982, Olivier Creed was inspired by the honeysuckle vines that grew around the family’s summer home in Normandy. The result was a honeysuckle scent that is both lavish and evocative. Chevrefeuille is not a soliflore - paired with the flower is a swirl of stems, herbs, vines, and just a dollop of Spring weather thrown in for good measure. As the longing for a change in season grows more intense, it is a comfort to be able to get there a little quicker through our noses – and then finally allowing our imagination to take the reins from there.
The CREED boutique at 38, Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie in Paris, the only freestanding CREED boutique in the world.
Photographs courtesy of Creed
A Whiff of Difference-Bergdorf Goodman Uncorks the Real, Rare and Precious Scents of Ajne Parfumerie and Apothecary
New York City’s Bergdorf Goodman has always been first in luxury, elegance and service. Now, the iconic emporium by the park offers yet another first – rare and precious perfumes made from natural plant and flower essences. With the premiere of Ajne Parfumerie and Apothecary on Bergdorf’s Beauty Level in late March, 2007, New Yorkers will finally experience the difference. “Many consumers do not realize that in most commercial fragrances, a flower isn’t really a flower, nor is a wood truly a wood,” says Jane Hendler, the artisan parfumeur and Certified Master Essential Oil Therapist behind Ajne. “Most products use synthetic ingredients and aromachemicals. True rare and precious perfumes, on the other hand, return to old world and even ancient practices of using real plant ingredients, many of them more costly than pure gold,” says Hendler.
It all started at a secret address in Carmel, California -- the original Ajne Parfumerie & Apothecary, where scent-seekers indulge in private blending appointment with Hendler or take home a bottle from her extensive collection of “prêt-a-porter” perfumes, lotions, shower gels, and more. Hendler has blended for Hilary Swank, Reese Witherspoon, Lucy Liu, America Ferrerra, Jessica Biel, Kanye West and Clint and Dina Eastwood among others., Ajne makes its exclusive New York home at Bergdorf Goodman, offering a selection of its most swoon-worthy prêt-a-porter fragrances, all crafted by Hendler from the largest collection of rare and precious oils in the country, if not the world. Ajne’s expert staff at Bergdorf will also be available to create “demi-blends,” or a customized mix of prêt-a-porter fragrances and individually chosen ingredients.
“Ajne’s unique individual approach to the art of perfume is totally in keeping with the spirit of Bergdorf Goodman and the level of service we have always offered our clientele,” says Ed Burstell of Bergdorf Goodman. “We are excited to be able to offer our shoppers the only fragrance experience of its kind in New York.” At Bergdorf Goodman, clients may take a special Ajne fragrance analysis test to help define and refine their preferences and guide them toward the selection of a prêt-a-porter or demi-blend parfum.
The other, "Om" is our newest fragrance. Om… A simple word, comprised of just two letters that many cultures claim represent the sound by which the universe was created. The word Om symbolizes unfoldment and expansion. Ajne's fragrance inspired by this transformative word contains some of the worlds most grounding and expansive rare and precious oils. Blended with pure notes of Sandalwood, Himalyan Cedarwood and Oakmoss that speak to the four states of human existence: material, deep sleep, dream and absolute consciousness. Simply breathe in Om and you will likely awaken to a deep feeling of inner security and ecstatic bliss. These oils are known to strengthen the base, third eye and crown chakras.
"Lakshmi" which is the first in a series of seven of the world¹s most ultra rare and precious hand made natural parfums included in Ajne¹s "Collection Luxe." Lakshmi is inspired by the Hindu Goddess of Prosperity, Beauty, Grace and Charm and has a top note blended around around uplifting joyful Blood Orange. Feel the fragrance open to the aromas of both Turkish and Bulgarian heirloom roses. Know that these roses were cultivated from ancient times long before your birth. Move deeper into the scents of the amber base accord of ancient woods with hints of vanilla and seductive natural musk and the slightest Lakshmi touch of white lotus and you have arrived to your higher place. Lakshmi is designed to elevate you to your highest self, open your heart, enhance creativity, open a wellsping of prosperity and offer you a greater sense of grounding and security as you propel forward on your life¹s journey."
Jane Hendler & Rex Rombach will be at Bergdorfs! Anje is a sponsor of the Sniffapalooza Magazine raffle!
Parfums Zero Six Cent-Trente
Nicolas Chabert will be attending Henri Bendel for Sniffapalooza Spring Fling.
As one of the Creators of Parfums Zero Six Cent-Trente Nicolas Chabert was
raised in Grasse by a family of perfumers and designers. He was inspired by
the creations his father and his uncle (Claude & Jacques Chabert) contributed
to the industry, particularly classic such as Cristalle, Samsara, Face a Face
and Faconnable. Zero Six Cent-Trente is Nicolas personal contribution to the
industry. His genius 06130 has chosen to bring its olfacive entity to life.
Nicolas Chabert, founder of Parfums Zéro Six Cent-Trente, began his career in the fragrance industry working with his father and his uncle, renowned perfumers established in Grasse and Paris. The goal of 06130 is to share the love of fine fragrances with discriminating customers in the most exquisite shopping environments worldwide.
06130 is the zip code of Grasse, France, the picturesque town where the modern fragrance industry was originally shaped. It became the world's perfume capitol in the 17th century for socio-economic and geographic reasons, and remains the center of perfume creativity and production to this day.
Henri Bendel coordinator, Stella, has also just announced that they are very excited that they are going to award a grand prize valued at over $2K (in addition to the fabulous GWP). The grand prize includes full size bottles of a wide selection of the fragrances we carry, many exclusively.
At Bergdorf Goodman
Estée Lauder's Bronze Goddess Review
by Kathy Patterson
In the beginning: The sensuous heat of the sun. The core of this Radiant Amber scent exudes smooth sensuality. The creaminess of Coconut Milk, Sandalwood, and Vanilla unwinds with silky warmth. The exotic combination of Vetiver and Myrrh deepens the sexiness with its embrace.
In the middle: the silky softness of warm sand. Velvety smooth Amber, with its warm, mysterious scent, glows at the center, pulsing the uninhibited spirit of summer's sultry heat through the fragrance. The vibrancy of bright, zesty elements infuses the fragrance with sun-drenched lightness. Juicy Mandarin, Sicilian Bergamot, and Lemon blend with Pulpy Orange for a mouth-watering sensation.
In the end: the radiance of bronzed skin. An intoxicating blend of milky flowers adds to the creaminess of the Amber signature. Luscious Tiare Flower and exotic Jasmine blend with the tenderness of Magnolia Petals for an indulgent floral effect. Orange Flower Buds add a glimpse of sunshine with lustrous floralcy, while fresh Lavender adds a breath of softness.
Ok - so that's Estée Lauder's official press release for their new Bronze Goddess scent.
Let me let you in on a little secret - Bronze Goddess is the reincarnation of 2007's wildly popular limited edition Azurée Soleil. They are nearly identical, with that luscious blend of coconut and tiare, but I would say that Bronze Goddess has noticeably more citrus. It's still just as gorgeous as the original, so don't let the extra splash of orange deter you. It's actually a good thing. I dare say I love this version just as much, and will probably buy it (even though I have stockpiled Azurée Soleil). Bronze Goddess is available this month, in Eau Fraiche Skinscent, Body Oil Spray, and Luminous Body Lotion. What are you waiting for? Go buy it, but save some for me!
Septimanie, Comtesse d’Egmont Pignatelli 16 years old, becoming the Comtesse d'Egmont Pignatelli.
Sarah Barton-King with Merlin Boy for Australian Vogue
Sarah established The Pink Room as a more complete
expression of her creative strategy, as well as to have direct
contact with her audience. She has developed The Pink Room
brand to feature a number of individual, unique designs and a
fragrance. As a consultant, she has undertaken commissions
for various blue chip companies and organizations such as
Rothschilds’ Waddesdon Manor, Dianoor Bond Street in the
UK, Bruno Magli in Italy for their global retail outlets and in the
US, Liz Williams Designs (NY), I Magnin and Luckyscent.com.
The Pink Room is a sponsor of the Sniffapalooza Magazine raffle!
With Princess Anne at The Pink Room, UK
Campos de Ibiza
Takashimaya & Henri Bendel
The Brand : Campos de Ibiza is known for its elegance and timelessness on the island of Ibiza. The scents are inspired by the Mediterranean and made from the island's finest ingredients. Used in the purest tradition of countrymen recipies, they become the masterpiece of the fragrances.Their names are whispered to
preserve their exclusivity. For more than a quarter of a century, the collection has captured a hint of Ibiza in eliciously elegant and refined fragrances. Since only few years, the fragrances are proposed outside the Island in order to respond to the evergrowing demand of international Ibiza's lovers.
The company: It is a family company installed in an old finca (tipical Spanish farm) lost in the middle of Almond trees. They have an elegant store in the most exclusive place: Marina Botafoch, where all national and international Vip are going since always. The daughter of the owners, Aurelia, has started to export the brand outside the island and position Campos de Ibiza has "The Spanish Niche Brand" in order to give a good image of Ibiza which is, along with parties phenomenon, a marvellous Island (the Jewel of the Mediterranean sea)
The product line: Eaux de toilette declined in 6 fragrances : Mandarina (fresh); Cedro (for Men);Agua de Rosa (a floral : not pure Rose, let's say Rose in the Garden; Jazmin (Fresh and Sweet); Essencias de Higo (Fig)and Flor de Almendra (Almond Flower) The most successful and popular in the Us is Essencias de Higo. All Fragrances are declined in high level candles and coffret soaps
Inspiration: All fragrances are inspired by the countryside of Ibiza (Campos de Ibiza means the countryside of Ibiza)which is very rich in citrus, almond trees, flowers etc etc... 100% natural, the products respect the spirit of the rich and beautiful nature of the island of Ibiza.
New at Takashimaya
Dr. Vranjes is a Florence based artisan perfumer who creates highend home and personal fragrances from his boutique-laboratory in Italy. Dr. Vranjes has captured old-world charm in each creation and continues his research in the field of home and personal fragrances using only the finest ingredients from around the globe. Starting from his research in the essences, which are the true soul of each of his creations, the development of all of his products are handled with great care. Each home ambiance product is hand made and presented in Venetian hand blown bottles made by artisan glassmakers in Italy and presented in silky fabric lined boxes, perfect for gift giving.
Dr. Vranjes Rosso Nobile Home Fragrance fills the home with the essence of fine wines. Packaged in a stunning gift box lined with silky fabric the bottle of essence deserves nothing less. An exclusive decanter with grape vine sticks complete this unique and gorgeous presentation. Fill your decanter with this highend fragrance blended with top notes that are dominated by strawberry and blackberry and hints of citrus. Mild fermented notes add to a bloom of violets and roses that form the body with its intensely voluptuous character. Delicate notes of tannins of wine complete the unique harmony of base notes for a completely unique, sophisticated, elegant home fragrance.
Dr. Vranjes Rosso Nobile where rich florals, fruits and wine merge into a mélange of decadence and harmony.
Ineke at Takashimaya
Evening Edged In Gold and new Sample Collection
San Francisco, California - Ineke LLC is proud to announce it’s new Deluxe Sample Collection, which contains spray samples of Ineke’s five fragrances including the most recent, “Evening Edged in Gold”. With the Deluxe Sample Collection, you can experience the wistful and romantic notes of After My Own Heart, the fresh, verdant elixir of Balmy Days & Sundays, the flirtatious alchemy of Chemical Bonding, the darkly romantic blend of Derring-Do and the warm, luxuriant tonality of
Evening Edged in Gold. The Deluxe Sample Collection is presented in an elegant box and includes a brochure describing all the fragrances. Available only on www.ineke.com, the purchase price of $20 is fully redeemable against a future full-sized perfume purchase and provides a low risk way of sampling the line.
Ineke’s line debuted in July 2006 with After My Own Heart, Balmy Days & Sundays, Chemical Bonding and Derring-Do for Men. This polished and sophisticated line with its distinctive personal signature is created by Ineke Rühland, a “nose” trained at ISIPCA in Versailles, France. In a market crowded with artisanal brands, Ineke has reached cult status among perfume fans globally because of her approachable perfumes, top-quality custom-designed packaging and award-winning sampling
About Ineke - Ineke fragrances can be found at fine stores including Bergdorf Goodman and Takashimaya in New York, Studio at Fred Segal in Los Angeles and Liberty in London, along with her website, www.ineke.com. For more information, contact firstname.lastname@example.org.
Sniffapalooza members get to smell the latest fragrance-
Evening Edged In Gold. I had wished to have a full review at this time but
space was limited this issue . Please look for review soon!
Evening Edged In Gold is gorgeous,
the drydown is equally gorgeous.
I went through my sample in two
days to keep sniffing all the
different levels. This should be
a big hit for Ineke!
Ineke is a sponsor of the
Ambra di Venezia
Montgomery Taylor continues to identify his products in the “niche market”. In addition, he
maintains an artisanal approach by offering hand poured fragrances and hand poured candles.
Crowning his artisanal treasures is a hand made perfume bottle which he creates himself.
For his women’s fragrance, Ambra di Venezia, Mr. Taylor lovingly prepares each flacon in New
York for his discerning customers. He perfected his glass-making technique in Venice, and
hence the name. His perfume, Ambra di Venezia (Amber of Venice), is inspired by the color
of Venetian sunsets with their glowing reflections on the city’s waterways and palaces.
Continuing his passion for Venetian glassblowing, Mr. Taylor plans to release a new series
of perfume flacons next year. The new edition will feature an array of different exotic hues to
complement the bright yellow-amber bottle he currently produces for his fragrance. Again he
will sign and number each new bottle, part of the limited edition just as before.
He calls himself the fragrance designer, because he also relies on the expert opinion of a “nose” to complete his work.
That “nose” is Rayda Vega, a New Yorker who has a long and rich tenure at both IFF and Quest. He hastens to acknowledge her
talent in the perfume world, and attributes her professional hand in both his Ambra di Venezia and Paratus scents.
Montgomery Taylor perfected his glass making technique in Venice. He lovingly prepares each flacon in New York for his discerning customers. His Ambra di Venezia fragrance, and its original bottle are inspired by the amber sunsets of Venice with their glowing reflections on the city’s waterways and palaces. Handblown in the atelier each flacon is one of a kind, signed and numbered. Ambra di Venezia is a blend of French narcissus, jasmine, mandarin orange, lime, sandalwood and mango...
Anvers and Anvers 2 are the first in a new line of fragrances by Ulrich Lang New York.
Lang, a former L'Oreal executive, combines his love of contemporary photography with
his passion for fragrance in these timeless and enveloping scents. Anvers is named after
the Belgian town of Antwerp, which is fast becoming one of Europe's 'It-destinations'
among the style cognoscenti. Both fragrances successfully combine masculine
notes with florals, to create a unique and subtle aroma.
Both anvers and anvers 2 use a lot of florals combined with more masculine notes. anvers 2
combines Jasmine, Geranium Leaves, Violet with Cedarwood and Leather whereas in anvers 2
Mimosa, Lily, Bulgarian Rose are juxtaposed with Blond Woods (Sandalwood, Cedarwood).
anvers is sexy and women love it on their guys. I hear it's a great dating fragrance....anvers 2 is
very different in nature. Every time I wear it it feels like an invisible cashmere scarf wrapped
around me. It opens fresh but the drydown is soft, warm and I like to describe it as "snuggly".
Lucky Magazine called it "androgynously seductive" and it does have the qualities of a "shared
fragrance" - both men and women can use it. Smell for yourself. Mum's the word for 2008.
But the Sniffa members will be the first to know (as usual!). I look forward to seeing you
all on at Takashimaya!!
anvers and anvers 2 available at the following New York retailers:
Anvers won the "Best Male Scent" Sniffapalooza 2007.
Ulrich Lang is a sponsor of the Sniffapalooza Magazine raffle!
Marjorie Midgarden Fragrances
The fragrance of a dream
Introducing Summersent, an ethereal floral fragrance based on a fairytale, mystical bloom. Designed as a celebration of beauty, intelligence, grace, vision and individuality, Summersent is a tribute to femininity.
The inspiration for Summersent is a rare, guarded flower never before used in the fragrance industry. The robust scent of the secretive flower bloom is blended with heart notes of Italian jasmine, Moroccan orange blossom, cassis flower and genet for a rich floral bouquet. A light infusion of mandarin provides a sparkling top note.
Fresh petal “greenness” enhances the magical quality of the scent and a blend of white musks intertwined with a honey nectar accord provides a haunting dry down. Housed in an exquisite glass bottle with sparkling hand-applied Swarovski crystals, Summersent parfum is capped in a crystal dome for optimal pulse point application.
Summersent is available at Takashimaya NYC, Von Maur stores, and www.vonmaur.com
Neil Morris Fragrances:
The Signature Line at Takashimaya
Neil Welcomes His Friends from the Sniffapalooza Spring Fling, April 12th
and 13th at Takashimaya New York. Neil will be in the store introducing his
signature line of eight shared fragrances to the Sniffapalooza attendees on Saturday,
and will be in the store on Sunday as well to introduce people to his scents,
and will be available to sign bottle purchased that weekend. Meet Neil and let him
introduce you to his world of frangrances. Takashimaya New York 693 Fifth Avenue,
New York, NY
A collaborative retrospective
What is it about someone you meet for the very first time, yet somehow,
you feel as if you have known them all your life?
Really. This is a serious question. Don’t sign the sheet for past life regression
sessions quite yet. Neil Morris is memorable, that’s true but it’s so much more than that.
Why is it we feel as if we KNOW Neil Morris?
Memory is a slippery wisp of a thing; difficult to wrap one’s brain around,
often popping up at the most inconvenient times. Speeding through thoughts
like a cheetah giving chase and “poof” gone before a pen is found.
A great deal of research has gone into the idea of “scent memory”. The fact
that a scent can recall a particular person, event, or memory, is a common
experience. It is one of the greatest allures of fragrance. The success of the
perfumer to recall memory is, in large part, in direct proportion to the
success of their creations.
We recently sat down with Neil’s Signature Collection; eight parfums now available
at Takashimaya in New York City to see if we could figure out just how it is
we feel so strongly that we KNOW Neil Morris.
“I have not yet been to Greece but have an irresistible desire to visit. When
creating this fragrance I imagined myself aboard a yacht in the Aegean Sea, relaxing
on deck surrounded by fresh sea air and the subtle scents of the Greek Islands".
A sun-drenched Mediterranean fragrance with Top Notes of Mandarin and Basil Blossom,
Middle Notes of Lavender and luscious Quince and a warm Base that includes Sandalwood,
Benzoin and Pearl Musk.”
Christine: Big cat stretch…mmmmmm. This is niiiiiicccce. The initial note is an herbal one.
This makes for a very fresh opening that smells like, well…..VACATION. Subtle & refreshing.
Azure sea, whitewashed walls, bronzed skin, not mine, but someone’s bronzed skin. This is
getting better & better. The lavender is fresh, not at all medicinal smelling. Quince, what does
quince smell like? I know its fruit, which must be the sweet note I smell…mmmmmm.
Yeah, yeah she’s “mmmmmm-ing” again. I do that when I’m happy. Sandalwood & benzoin,
which has a vanilla-like aroma, are wonderful here. They, along with the aptly named pearl
musk, remind me clean, sun-bleached bones. Clean, strong, stunning.
Mark: Listen, I’m not one to mince words – this is damn good and I’m going to tell you why.
First though let’s get something straight: sparkling, citrusy fragrances bore me to tears;
managing to lose my attention and interest after about 11 seconds. By and large, they have the longevity of a 1980s One-Hit Wonder’s music career. Remember Mashmakhan? Yea…neither does anyone else. Well, you couldn’t forget Aegean if you tried. This scent perks me right up – it doesn’t bore me in the slightest. In fact – it’s my favorite scent in the line. Citrus and longevity are 2 words you rarely see together. Neil has given us a perfume that achieves the impossible. It is an exquisitely crafted scent, so sturdy, yet ever so fragile that gives us sparkling citrus all day long – coupled with an abundance of other-worldly goodness for the nose to revel in. This is nasal couture - a magnificent perfume constructed to within an inch of its life that gives you no glimpse of the endless hours of assemblage and the hammering-out of all the fine details and delectable little nuances. If we only knew.
“An exotic elixir of passionate love, Afire beckons us to delve into our hearts, to dare to embrace
our dearest feelings and share them with another.
Sultry and delicious, Afire opens on a Note of fresh Citrus, enveloping a vibrant Heart of luscious Berries swirled in Caramel. Smoldering Frankincense evokes the fires of passion while a whisper of Vanilla blends with soft Wood Notes for a perfect seduction.”
Christine: My sister bought a bottle of this one shortly after we first met Neil 2 years ago. She’s a firefighter/paramedic & often wears Afire to work. She loves the play on words but mostly she loves the scent & the compliments she garners.
You can detect every single note Neil mentions in his description. However, the frankincense tends to take on a patchouli-esque aroma with my chemistry. Afire reminds me of a flambé dessert. Hey, I’m passionate about dessert.
Christine’s Afire flambé based on Neil Morris’ fragrance by the same name:
One cup each of fresh blackberries & raspberries set aside
Make your favorite recipe for caramel sauce.
Take your bowl of berries; add the juice of ½ of a small fresh lemon, ¼ teaspoon of real vanilla extract and a 1/8th teaspoon of ground cinnamon from Madagascar. Toss gently to blend.
In a temperature sensitive serving bowl, place a large scoop of good quality vanilla ice cream, the kind with the vanilla beans.
Ladle the caramel sauce over the ice cream.
Cover the caramel with the fresh berry mixture.
Grate a little fresh nutmeg on top.
Slosh (don’t be so fussy) a generous amount of Grand Marnier or liqueur of your choice and alight.
Be sure to douse the flame before consumption.
Voila! Afire flambé a la Christine
Mark: Neil creates scents that you can see. You can smell them too, if you’d like. Neil also has a habit of taking every note I seem to loathe in a fragrance and make them work to an extent where I finally say “Alright already, I get it. I was wrong.” Citrus – well, you know my thoughts on that. Berries – I’d like to set them afire, sure – but I rarely want to smell like them. Caramel? Oh please - No. Then he throws in Frankincense and I go a bit weak in the knees, I must admit. It arrives at a sort-of candied, Moroccan port-of-call. Take the dessert tray at Rick’s Café in Casablanca, dig a Hawaiian luau-sized hole in the sand and roast it, buried for 4 hours. Afire is yet another example of Neil’s fine tailoring – this is gourmand but you might not realize it at first. It’s lusciously warm, not spicy. For the gourmand lover who wants a scent, which, for the first time, does not make them wonder how many points it is on the Weight Watchers Diet – this is for you.
“With Clear I wanted to create a fresh, invigorating scent that could be worn day or night, Winter or Summer, by men, women...anyone who loves a subtle, clean scent."
Clear is a sparkling, and “Clear” Scent with Top Notes of Pink Grapefruit and Linden Blossom, bracing Heart Notes of Balsam and Mint, and a warm dry down of Cedar and Clean Musk
Christine: Clear opens with a little sparkling dance of energizing grapefruit. Linden chimes in wonderfully whispering of spring. Then someone opens a door really, really wide. A bracing Nor’easter blows through smelling of Christmas & mint juleps. A kind-hearted soul tosses me a handmade quilt fresh from their Grandmother’s cedar chest and I take a nap. It’s a nice, much needed nap.
Mark: Linden is a note that doesn’t get enough attention, I’ve always thought. In Clear, the linden is abundant. It will grab your attention. I’m rather happy about that because I adore linden. This is the breeze that passes over you as you’re taking your sheets off of the clothesline. It’s incredibly comforting and excitingly fresh, but never redundant.
“Coral was inspired by a three-hour walk along Laguna Beach, California. It was a gorgeous late afternoon and the ocean had that “scent” that tells you you could only be on the West Coast. I was completely present in the moment and tuned in to my surroundings: the sea birds, the sand, the flowers growing on the nearby cliffs, the scent of the fruit juice I was sipping, everything!"
Coral begins with Top Notes of Bergamot and Pomegranate leading to Heart Notes of Fig and Sweet Pea lightly touched with Bulgarian Rose. The Dry Down involves Sandalwood and an Incense Note (to conjure images of Driftwood) and a fresh Oceanic Musk!”
Christine: Coral is a fun, fruit cocktail of a scent. It’s what you wear when you want to enjoy yourself. Bergamot is wonderful to relieve fatigue & it tends to amp up the fruit notes on skin. Add the clean fruit fragrance of pomegranate & the rich notes of fig with the long lasting rose, sandalwood, incense & musk and you have a high quality fruity floral fragrance that will last & last.
Mark: I’ve never been on the West Coast, except for Vegas, but I won’t bring that up because Coral isn’t “tarty.” Coral manages to be flirtatious without offending the Mennonites. Unlike your local grocery store, the pomegranate here does not become overexposed. This is not the pomegranate that has weaseled its way into all of your lives like a nail fungus. What it is, if I may be so bold, is pomegranate done right, for once. Since this is parfum strength, don’t be afraid to dab instead of spraying – they’re 2 entirely different experiences. Another Neil Morris scent with the lasting power and sillage of Uranium. (Just the way I like ‘em.)
“This fragrance was inspired by a late night walk near a beach in Hawaii. The air was dense and slightly cool at the same moment. Nearby, exotic flowers were blooming and the heady aroma captivated me and for a moment, time stood still.
Top Notes of Sweet Orange and Aldehydes meet Heart Notes of Melati Blossom,
Gardenia and Fig infused with Green Tea and an almost narcotic blending of Ylang
Ylang and Plumeria. The sensual dry down marries Dark Amber and Musk with
a hint of Patchouli.”
Christine: First of all, I am not a lover of big florals but the basenotes of Midnight
Flower were very promising, so I wanted to try it. I closed my eyes & settled back
to let the images float to the surface of my mind: Floating, gently floating in pool of
deliciously warm water. The waning gibbous moon hangs low on the horizon like a
crooked smile. As I step from the pool, nary a ripple distorts the endless shore.
A beautiful woman greets me softly, “Aloha” she says as she places a fragrant lei
of plumeria blossoms over my bowed head. As the scent engulfs me, wrapping it’s
silky tendrils around me in it’s moist sillage, I raise my hands to my head instantly
recalling my young daughter spilling an entire bottle of plumeria fragrance oil.
No, No, stop the picture, this can’t be my memory! Alas, I can’t get past the plumeria.
I definitely have scent memory “baggage” with Midnight Flower.
All is not well in my paradise.
Mark: Florals are my Las Vegas and I’m their aforementioned “tart.” Midnight Flower
is the smell of moonlight and the earth as it begins to cool. It is Beauty overshadowed
by the dark of night. It is a timeless fragrance. I don’t see this as a big floral, per say
– but rather a floral that tries to lure you in unconventional ways. She’s a tricky one; she is
- sultry and mischievous. Some artful Neil Morris blending of tea, figs, and über-florals of Gardenia and Plumeria. And the Ylang Ylang? I Like, I like. What can I say? I’m a man who likes his flowers - anytime of day. The patchouli in the drydown keeps this fragrance grounded in all the right places while the musk allows it to soar in others.
“When I came up with the idea for Quest, I was musing about a bold, woodsy scent that would appeal to men but that women would also be drawn to, a fragrance for the adventurous spirit in all of us.
Quest is a deep blend that begins with Top Notes of Calabrian Bergamot and fresh Ozone Notes followed by Heart Notes that include Cut Grass and Heliotrope, leading to warm Base Notes of Myrrh, Patchouli and Precious Woods.”
Christine: Ok. I confess. I’ve smelled Quest on Neil. Let me tell you its G.O.O.D.
Quest is good on me too but let me tell you, it’s really good on him. Now that I’m thinking
about it, I need more men to participate in my study so I can glue my nose, I mean judge
my reaction to make a full and complete analysis of exactly how seductive, I mean
interesting the woods blend with the myrrh and the heavenly heliotrope.
Is it hot in here?
Mark: Yes, it is. It’s very hot in here. Quest is definitely adventurous. You may go
looking for Quest, but ultimately – Quest will end up finding you instead. It’s funny
that way. When you have your wrist to your nose, there is an urge to stay a while
and wait for new things to come. The myrrh in this one is so contemplative that you
begin to think that perhaps the journey has landed you in Arabia. When the woods
kick in, you begin to realize and long for the experiences that make people like
Steven Segal convert to Buddhism. Don’t we all want to have eye-opening,
life-changing moments in our lives every once-in-a-while? With Quest, I dare
say you can be part of a big change and still keep your religion.
“Storm is based on a memory of an approaching summer thunderstorm on
Cape Cod when I was 12 years old. I remember the sudden stillness and “smell”
of the storm—ozone in the air—that charged the scent of everything around me!
Then the storm was on us and we ran for cover! The aftermath left everything—
the flowers, sand, earth, trees—wet and incredibly fragrant.
Top Notes of Papaya and Lime lead to a Floral Heart of Delphinium and Purple Hyacinth.
The Drydown is a blend of Tonka Bean, Golden Musk, Earth and Marine Notes.”
Christine: This photo is of the Cape Cod National Sea Shore just off Race Point. It was
winter so nothing was blooming, the air was brisk, the weather beautiful in a brooding way.
The sea, sand, wind & passing storm all added to a sense of place that could only be
here and now, captured in this moment. So I thought in 2003, when I snapped this picture.
In 2006, I met Neil and experienced his Storm. If I took all of the memories of standing
at Race Point and added the tart lime, the succulent papaya and the hyacinth, it
would be a very accurate description, albeit in scent, of my experience of the
storm in Cape Cod that winter day in 2003. How does he do it?
Mark: Storm is both old and new. It’s old, because you’ve smelled it before. And it’s new because you’ve never smelled it. Storm is truly the high water mark of the Signature Collection in terms of the idea of scent memory. It is astoundingly evocative. Your first
encounter manages to stir up all of the memories you’ve stored of storms you’ve experienced. And while it seems incredibly familiar to you – you soon remember that this is a brand new fragrance that you are smelling with no prior introduction. The notes are exceptionally blended in a way that you don’t immediately notice them individually, nor do you care to – this scent is all about the experience of having had an experience.
“I was inspired to create Zephyr on a hot day in August, the air humid, still and oppressive. Suddenly, seemingly from out of nowhere, a cool breeze kissed the back of my neck, bringing instant relief from the heat. A zephyr, a refreshing breeze.
Zephyr begins with Top Notes of Tangerine and Papaya that combine with lovely Heart Notes of Honeysuckle and Casablanca Lily, accented with Notes of White Tea. The Base Notes are a comforting blend of Sandalwood, Amber and Ocean Musk.”
Christine: Full disclosure. I bought a bottle of this when Neil began selling his line at Takashimaya.
Oddly enough, this is the most difficult scent for me to write about. It may be, in part, because I know it so well. I’ve had so many wonderful experiences wearing Zephyr, numerous compliments, of course. However, the most important aspect of Zephyr is how I feel when I’m wearing it. Empowered. Sustained.
Mark: Zephyr is a neon breeze across the back of your neck. Neil does that to us a lot – breezes things past the back of our necks. Its all part of the Neil Morris experience. With Zephyr, however – Neil’s signature has been distilled right into a bottle for us. When I smell this, I know for certain that I am getting exactly what Neil intended for me to experience. Don’t ask me how – it’s very mystical and I wouldn’t want to give away the glamour. (I just know, ok?) Not only is the name incredibly fantastic (it had to be said) – but even at first sniff you begin to see it spelled out in blue lights on a vertical marquee.
Do we know Neil? Yes, we certainly do. Scent memory is powerful. It transports us through
time & space. It doesn’t limit our experience in any way. A gifted storyteller is just that,
be it in words or pictures or by scent. It is no less real because it triggers our sense of smell.
In fact, it is made more real because it engages parts of our brain in a deeply primal way.
Christine: It's only been two years since I've met Neil but truth be told, I've known him for a very,
very long time. For as long as my hippocampus is working, may it continue to be true
Mark: Talent. Mama Rose said it. “You either got it. Or you had it.” Neil’s got it. This is a
line devoid of conformity and full of a little bit of everything that’s truly welcomed, from the
avant-garde to new twists on classic ideas. There is also a hell of a lot of passion. It was
this amazingly palpable passion that once I experienced in person, assured me immediately
that this was the man who would create a couture scent just for me. (It’s almost done!)
I actually do know Neil Morris, but through his fragrances, I am convinced we’ve known each other forever.
Neil Morris Fragrances are available at Takashimaya in New York City. 212-350-0100. and also at his website:
on hand to walk you through the line and answer all of your questions at the Sniffapalooza Spring Fling at Takashimaya on
Saturday, April 12th.
Neil Morris Fragrances is a sponsor of the Sniffapalooza Magazine raffle!
Mark David Boberick
This is a floribunda rose from my garden called “Honey Perfume”.
Mark David Boberick is a student studying Interior Design in Philadelphia. Mark David has been aware of scent from a very young age and started collecting fragrances at age 12. A lover of art and music, Mark David frequents museums, Theatre, and the Opera. He is also an accomplished theatrical set designer having already amassed a large portfolio of work for only being 22 years old. In 2006, Mark David established Atelier Mark David, his freelance design business based in Philadelphia. Atelier keeps him busy with several side projects both Interior and Scenic which he works on in his spare time. Mark David is happiest when he’s designing or sniffing. He hopes to finish his schooling by earning his Masters Degree in Florence.
Christine Lewandowski is a full time mom who is passionate about fragrance. She once suffered from migraines, which lead to her study of aromatherapy, Therapeutic Touch, reflexology, Spiritual Response Therapy and Johrei. As the former Director of Procurement Programs for the New Jersey Small Business Development Center at Rutgers Graduate School of Management (Newark), Christine compiled and edited the first Procurement Directory. Rutgers University Press published the Directory. Christine is a graduate of the University of Virginia, former educator & voracious reader. She resides in New Jersey with her husband and daughter.
Bond No. 9 Union Square, Chandler Burr at Seppie's, Dorothy McCall of Kingsbury Fragrances, IntelleiScents by Lee Cuthbert, Perfumer Larry Siena presenting his new fragrance; Palio, Isabella Aurel perfumed chocolate sauce and review by Juvy Santos, more Creed reviews, a letter from Floris London, a Sniffapalooza exclusive, CB I hate Perfume new release, and here you will find the Spring Fling Schedule as well as the sponsors of Sniffapalooza Magazine special Raffle.
Aedes de Venustas
Mona di Orio will be appearing at Aedes to introduce in person the her new fragrance, Amyitis. Jeanne Weber from Septimanie Perfumes will will introduce Pavillon des Fleurs. Andrew Sedlock from Diptyque who will present their three newest launches for an exclusive Sniffapalooza preview only. A special Diptyque 40th Anniversary book available this day only! (The new Diptyque fragrances will be officially released on May 15). In addition, Aedes will preview the new Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes with Sniffapalooza, two new Amouage scents, and the Andy Tauer collection.
Last minute news-At Bergdorf Goodman
Sonia Ciliberti of Guerlain, who will be presenting Guerlain's newest
creations and limited editions, including Cruel Gardenia.
Theresa Dickinson of Creed, sharing Creed's exquisite new atomizers with us.
Also featuring Tom Crutchfield, presenting Etro, Asprey, and Annick Goutal,
including the exclusive Petite Cherie collection
The beautiful Mona di Orio
We were able to catch up with Mona di Orio in Nice...
"I'm really happy to come to New York to the Sniffapalooza event and to have the marvelousl opportunity to share my passion with you...I'm enthusiastic and always curious, I like to travel, discovering new places, different foods, atypical smells, I explore them with my nose first. My world is "olfactory", all my senses are connected to my nose. I can find some inspiration just reading a book, contemplating a painting or listening some music,in a way I'm going to extract their "odorant soul"... Or simply walking in a park smelling the trees in blossom...And sometimes when there's no fragrances all around, so I smell in my "brain", playing with my odorant memories to find a pure emotion and to capture it in a bottle !!!.....
It seems for the moment that Lux and Nuit Noire would be the most popular fragrances, before Oiro and Carnation. So, I'm impatient to see what is going to happen with Amyitis !...Lux is sparkling, full of light and coolness, it gives some energy and happiness. People feels comfortable into this kind of perfume, it's reassuring and invigorating at the same time. Nuit Noire is mysterious, captivating... In the collective subconscious the oriental fragrances are often considered like "love potions" , giving the feeling to be more seductive and attractive...It's nearly unusual to meet at the same time so many fans of fragrances who are real connoisseurs. So, it will be a deep exultation to share my knowledges with Sniffapalooza members, face to face, to answer to their questions, to explain my experience and my philosophy... and to let them discover my new fragrance Amyitis too....It's such a great experience ! A privileged moment..."
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