<a href="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer">Flash Required</a>
Flash Required

If you enjoyed any of the articles in this issue or wish to make a comment,
please do so in our Guest Book listed below-comments about articles welcome!

WHILE YOU’RE WAITING FOR THE NEXT ISSUE:

Please sign our guest book










Perfume drawings taken from random off the guest book.
If you do not want your email to appear on the guest book email me privately.

Sniffapalooza Magazine is an online magazine celebrating the art of fragrance offering fragrance reviews, articles, press releases, interviews and events.
The Magazine is a collaboration of fragrance lovers contributing to each issue
and would not be possible otherwise. 
You do NOT have to be a member of the Magazine to read it-we get hits from
around the world and all across America, celebrating the art of fragrance.

We would love to hear from you, if you want to share your journey and experiences about the love of fragrance, what it means to you and where it has led you. What is it about the depth of smell that has us constantly sniffing?  If you have an article, fragrance review or story to share please e-mail me at:

A special thank you to Karen Dubin and Karen Adams for providing me with the opportunity to serve Sniffapalooza with this space dedicated to all things fragrant.  They have graciously allowed me this opportunity to produce this magazine as part of the Sniffapalooza family. 

                              
SNIFFAPALOOZA MAGAZINE is looking for rose perfume and rose fragrance reviews
to add to our "All About Rose's", a definitive collection link. 

A special thank you to Victoria Austin, Mark David Boberick, Ida Meister, Chandler Burr, Neal Patterson, Michelyn Camen, David Horner, Joyce Boyce, Juvy Santos, Mary Mitchell, Patty Geissler, Victoria Owen, Dr. James Dotson, Tracy Figler, Christine Lewandowski, Kathy Patterson, Dora Truong, and Diane Artzberger for the editorial contributions.
If I forgot your name-contact me!

Special thanks to Chris Sheppard from Floris London, Julia J. Sloan from Guerlain, Jessica Malone of the Estee Lauder Group, PR office at Bond. No 9, Donna Muzio of Estee Lauder; Bergdorf's NYC, Dina Fierro from Hampton Sun, special thanks to James R. Barkley, Dorothy McCall of Kingsbury Fragrances, and Sasha Bard of Ministry of Fragrance for support.

Banner Graphic Design by Kathy Patterson/theminx.
"Raphaella Looking for Andy Warhol" by Kathy Patterson

The views and opinions expressed herein are solely those of the author and/or guest contributors and do not necessarily state or reflect those of Sniffapalooza. com (the members only organization)

Articles by all guest contributors DO NOT necessarily reflect those of
Raphaella Brescia Barkley or Sniffapalooza Magazine.



Bond. No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory Review by Mark David Boberick

Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue
For Her NEW REVIEW
by Christine Lewandowski & OTHERS

Chandler Burr Scent Dinners
and Interview by Mark David Boberick

For the Men: 2 by Creed
2 by Ormonde Jayne
By Mark David Boberick

Tom Ford
Black Orchid Voile de Fleur
by Kathy Patterson

Andy Tauer's Bottle Journey

Le Maroc Pour Elle Andy Tauer Perfumes
By Victoria Austin

Estee Lauder Tuberose Gardenia
by Raphaella

MY TOP 10 SCENTS OF SUMMER
Mark David Boberick

Juvy's Holy Grail

My Summer Favorites by Raphaella

Olivier Durbano by Kathy Patterson

I Married A Perfumista
by Neal Patterson

FIVE NEW ONES BY CB I HATE PERFUME by James Dotson

To See A Flower by Juvy Santos

NEW Bond No. 9 Coney Island

Library of Perfume Notes
by James Dotson

Sampaguita Memories
by Juvy Santos

Fragrance Memories
by Dora Truong

Tom Ford Private Collection
Tobacco Vanille
Perfume Review by Tracy Figler

CB I Hate Perfume Interview
by James Dotson

Floris London

Dr. Dorothy McCall Interview

Dr. James Dotson:
AUTO ATOMIZER

Chandler Burr web site
New York Times Perfume Critic

NEW Bryant Park reviews

NEW Ellie Perfume Review by
Patty Geissler

Dr. James Dotson
Amnosia: The Loss of Smell

New Guerlain perfumes

Lorenzo Villoresi
WINS THE PRIX COTY

Mandy Aftel new perfume reviews by James Dotson

Two NEW Estee Lauder:
Beautiful Love & Summer Fun

Apothia International News

Demeter Fragrance Reviews

Tom Ford Black Orchid Review

Ron Robinson "Curator of Cool"

Chanel Les Exclusif's Reviews
by Kathy Patterson

Roxana Villa press release

The Perfume Yogi
by James Dotson

IS THE PRESTIGE FRAGRANCE BUSINESS READY FOR REHAB?
by David Horner

Self-Portrait in Fragrance:
Beth Terry’s Creative Universe
By Michelyn Camen

A VISIT WITH MANDY AFTEL
By James Dotson

Guerlain's Cherry Blossom
By Juvy Santos

Sniffapalooza.com


  October 7, 2007 
                                         Fall is Fragrant!

 

   PART ONE.  This issue is so big that I cannot list all the titles as I normally am able to do.
   This issue is part one and is devoted to the upcoming fragrance extravaganza of the world,
   the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball!  The Guest Artists this year are spectacular for the event in
   New York City, Oct 20 & 21, 2007.  In this issue you will find many articles, all pertaining
   to the special events of Fall Ball. For Bond. No 9 fans, we have reviews of the new
   Bond. No. 9 Sak's For Her and a review of the stunning Andy Warhol Silver Factory
   (to be released Dec1.)   For upcoming Chandler Burr "Scent Dinner" information,
   you will find it all here.

   The Fall Ball is the biggest yet for Sniffapalooza and the full schedule is listed far below.
   Everyone is in a frenzy of excitement, including me.
 
   Bellissimo! Welcome to Sniffapalooza Magazine, where we celebrate all things fragrant.
  
Sign InView Entries




Bond No. 9 - Sak's Fifth Avenue for Her  Bond No. 9 - Sak's Fifth Avenue for Him

Four Reviews of the new fragrance.

We were so crazy about the new scent coming from Bond No. 9
and Saks Fifth Avenue that we will be running reviews all month-

By Christine Lewandowski

Laurice Rahme of Bond No. 9 fame has released the next of its New York scents.
This release marks the first time Bond No. 9 has created a scent for a well
known shopping landmark: Saks Fifth Avenue, which, could arguably be a New York
neighborhood in and of itself.

Here is an excerpt from the press release:

“Saks Fifth Avenue for Her signals the return of the classic gardenia eau de
parfum, given a chic contemporary twist with the addition of sparkling jasmine and vetiver,
along with smooth vanilla.  This all-white bouquet captures the fashion-forward
essence of 21st century Saks, while at the same time expressing the eclectic
downtown spirit of NoHo-based Bond No. 9.” 

Before analyzing the scent, let me share with you my impressions. 

Here in my mind, a stage is set with sultry lighting, lots of lush fabric, the feeling is opulent. Enter Billy Holiday, stage right.  Enter Veronica Lake, stage left.



























Without a doubt, their presence is a tangible force in the room.  They walk, pout, chat to someone they pass…they exist in the moment.  As an observer, you enjoy the sight, the sound, the aroma of them.  It is as if the rest of the room has fallen away.  Only you and the stunning women have substance. You watch but do not presume to engage them. All too soon, the song ends, the room is empty, the women you experienced are gone.  The only proof that they were ever even there is the lingering scent of gardenia.

These are my first impressions of Saks Fifth Avenue for Her.  The fragrance evokes a presence, an image of classic femininity from another era.  The first and most prominent note is a rich gardenia.  I am not a scientist but I would think that this would be a difficult note to work with.  It could so easily be overdone and the outcome would not be pleasant.  Nothing could be further from the truth with Saks Fifth Avenue for Her.  The gardenia is exceptionally well done and although jasmine is one of the ingredients, I would not consider this a jasmine perfume.  Instead, the jasmine and vetiver, which is not a white flower by the way, provide a seamless structure, melding top to base.  Vetiver is an excellent choice to blend with jasmine: where vetiver is  “calming” , jasmine is “relaxing and emotionally warming” .  Now, I do not presume to know if the contents are essential oils or fragrance oils.  However, it is obvious that the creators selected the notes with some knowledge of aromatherapy.  Pure gardenia absolute is available and the other listed ingredients are available as essential oils.  Having experienced this fragrance, whatever the oil composition, the ingredients smell expensive.  Unfortunately, there is no escaping the obligatory vanilla note.  Here, at least, I do not find the vanilla overpowering.

Overall, Saks Fifth Avenue for Her is a promising addition to the Bond No 9 library.  I can imagine it will become a signature scent for anyone who appreciates a well-constructed, memorable fragrance.  Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue for Her is memorable because, if you choose to wear it, you will be remembered by anyone who encounters you and your sillage.  Be prepared to tell the curious what you are wearing and to be remembered, but in a good way, a very good way.

Davis, Patricia, “Aromatherapy An A-Z”, page 342. The C.W. Daniel Company Limited, 1993
Ibid, page 188


Saks Fifth Avenue for Her
By Kathy Patterson

Notes: jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, vetiver, vanilla

This is not your grandmother’s gardenia perfume!  The first of two fragrances commissioned by venerable New York fashion institution Saks Fifth Avenue, Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue for Her opens with notes of jasmine and tuberose.  The gardenia, supreme queen of white flowers, becomes evident within a minute or so of this largely linear fragrance. The effect of this triple whammy of all white is intense. Elegantly so. White floral fragrances, particularly a powerhouse combination like this, can be overwhelming, and for some more sensitive people, headache-inducing.  Bond’s genius of adding a dash of earthy vetiver and sweet vanilla keep this luxurious new scent grounded.  The result is a gorgeously creamy and warm floral with an underlying tropical quality reminiscent of coconut cream.  The drydown retains all of the gorgeous heady quality, but speaks more in a whisper. 


Saks Fifth Avenue for Him
by Kathy Patterson

Notes: chili, black pepper, cardamom, bergamot, incense, guaiac wood, amber

Initially, Saks Fifth Avenue for Him is all about a bright bergamot note dancing among spices.  There’s a bit of pepperiness, more black pepper than chili, and combined with the sharp yet warm sweetness of cardamom, it lends depth to the opening notes of this scent.  The pepper/cardamom gives way, quite seamlessly, to incense and the delicious resinous quality of guaiac wood.  There’s a bit of bitter sweetness in here too, almost licorice-like in quality.  Several minutes into the drydown, a soft amber note is detectable.

Merely reading the notes would give the impression that this scent is a spicy woodsy fragrance, however, it is actually strongly aquatic.   All of the pepper and incense seem to be submerged in a cool blue-green quality that floats somewhere just above the skin.  It’s only when one takes a deeper sniff that the other elements make themselves known.  

Bond No. 9 Sak's Fifth Avenue for Her
by Juvy Santos

It's...stunning.

I'm not sure what I expected, in a year full of other, notable white-floral, gardenia-based fragrance launches. I certainly didn't expect it to wow me, no, not in any sense of the word. But Saks for Her distinguished itself almost immediately from the run of other gardenia based scents, in much the same way my other gardenia-love, Stephanie, does. 

Only a true gardenia at the outside, far creamier than its sister of similar distribution, Estee Lauder Private Collection. Not very green. The initial blast is classic white floral bouquet--creamy and slightly tropical, rounded out by the effervescence of jasmine. But within moments, the triumvirate of tuberose/gardenia/jasmine gives way to an interplay with an almost woodsy vanilla. And there it stays, a deceptively simple scent. A white flower bouquet morphing into an earthy, rooty, yet comforting base. The drydown lasts for quite some time, relatively linear after the top notes fade. For me, it's almost a comfort scent rather than a glamorous scent--something about the grounded quality of the vanilla/vetiver base keeps this from sending me off into flights of fancy of red carpets and decollete. But it delivers, amply. This fragrance is lush, deep, and a particularly likeable rendition of the white floral bouquet.

Bond No. 9 Sak's Fifth Avenue for Her
By Amber Gibson

For all the perfume lovers who love Bond no. 9's fragrances, Saks Fifth Avenue "For Her" will not disappoint. The gardenia scent is very uplifting and classy, the perfect scent to represent Saks Fifth Avenue. The gardenia comes through very clearly, but is not overwhelming.

Notes of jasmine and vanilla add a an underlying touch of sophisication to this elegant floral scent. The scent does not go on strong, but with a subtlety so natural that I began to think that I just naturally smelled this good!  While I was worried that the fragrance would fade throughout the day, Saks Fifth Avenue "For Her" has been lingering on my wrists all day.

Bond No. 9's new "For Her" fragrance comes out on the 1st of September and it is definitely worth the wait!
Available at Sak's Fifth Avenue and Bond No. 9






Don't miss an issue...
Subscribe to Sniffapalooza Magazine

Click on the link to the right and I will send you the new issue each week.  Your email address  remains private, it is not given to anyone or any business, I respect the right to privacy.  It is soley used to notify you of new issues of Sniffapalooza Magazine.

RaphaellaBrescia@msn.com

Please visit Sniffapalooza at www.sniffapalooza.com
for membership information.  If you have a review or article you would like to contribute please email me at: RaphaellaBrescia @msn.com
















Ineke

Appearing at Bergdorf Goodman - opportunity for small group discussions with the creator and perfumer, Ineke Ruhland

At Takashimaya, Ineke will be doing a special hands-on presentation on components of her fragrances and how they get combined together into the top, middle and base notes.
































Ineke Rühland is a professional nose creating original fragrances in her independent studio in San Francisco. Born and educated in Canada, she moved to Europe in 1988 to embark on a career in the fragrance industry. After working in the Netherlands, England and France, she became fluent in three languages (English, French and  Dutch) and cultivated a love for creating complex and original scents along the way. While living in France, Ineke completed her formal perfumery studies at ISIPCA, the only university-level perfumery school in the world. She honed her traditional perfumery techniques with sojourns to Grasse, the city that spawned perfumery in France. Culminating her studies in Paris, where she still resides for part of the year, Ineke apprenticed at an esteemed fragrance house for three years before moving to San Francisco and eventually launching her own line in the summer of 2006. As one of a small number of classically-trained perfumers in the world, Ineke uses a time-honored approach to developing new scents. In her perfumery studio, she uses notes such as lilac, magnolia and peony for her eau de parfums. An enthusiastic gardener, she also derives inspiration from her collection of rare scented botanicals. Her passion for literature, design and the arts are reflected in every bottle. Through original photos, beautiful artwork and snippets of verse, Ineke crafts an intimate story for each scent. With four fragrances to date, the Ineke line caters to those with a sophisticated appreciation for unique fragrance.

For Canadian-born perfumer, Ineke Rühland, her eponymous fragrance line symbolizes her natural joie de vivre for perfume, design, art and literature. Indeed, her fragrances live up to that spirit. The Ineke fragrance line is refreshing and imaginative, provoking your senses with its mixed-media stories. Using lyrical titles that evoke stories of romance, nature, chemistry and courage, Ineke fragrances are rooted in her perfumery education and apprenticeship in France. The first four scents in the alphabetized collection are:

After My Own Heart - A romantic reflection on finding yourself in a place that feels just right. This scent is inspired by the romantic and wistful lilac flower, which to Ineke is the forgotten flower of perfumery.
Balmy Days & Sundays - A perfume about perfect moments on a relaxing Sunday; lying in the grass, breathing the smells of sweet scented flowers  and fragrant leaves.
Chemical Bonding - Playfully juxtaposing Chemistry 101 principles with human attraction, this scent combines a bright citrus opening with a powdery soft base, resulting in a flirtatious alchemy.
Derring-Do - A darkly romantic fragrance for men evoking spring rain, this is an ode to the literary rogue. Derring-Do is the Old English term for daring, with its requisite chivalry.
















Mark David: Can you tell me briefly about yourself, your Product Line, and its History?
I’m a classically-trained perfumer based in San Francisco with two nationalities:  Dutch and Canadian.  My introduction to the world of perfume was on the supply side, working for Quest (now Givaudan) in Europe for 12 years before moving to San Francisco.  While working for Quest’s fine fragrance office in Paris, I took a two-year leave to study at ISIPCA, the perfumery school in Versailles.  I launched my line of four eau de parfums in August 2006 at Bergdorf Goodman in New York and Fred Segal in Los Angeles.  My line is now also available at Takashimaya in New York.  My fragrances follow an abecedary (alphabetical) pattern and, although I launched A to D at one time, I intend add one new fragrance per year hereafter.

Mark David: As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and what keeps it fresh and interesting?
My biggest inspirations are nature and popular culture.  I’m an enthusiastic gardener, and have a scented plant theme in the garden.  I’ve collected a lot of books on the subject, and I also try to visit botanical gardens whenever I’m in a new city.  In terms of popular culture, I’m known as the “magazine queen” at home, with out-of-control stacks around the house.  I think my fragrances are quite current, rather than being based on historical structures or materials.  In terms of keeping it fresh, I’m still such a freshman that it hasn’t yet been a problem.  I have lots of ideas and directions that I still want to explore, so I can’t see it becoming an issue for quite a few years.  I hope to be versatile enough to eventually offer a range of perfumes that’s diverse enough to appeal to a broad swath of perfume lovers.

Mark David: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall’s event?
I am very curious to meet these people who are so mad about perfumes.  I think it’s a really unique group of people, and will be unlike the general public who are often quite blasé about fragrance.  I intend to bring along some raw materials in case there are people interested in the building blocks of my fragrances.

Mark David: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about them do you think makes them register with people?
The popularity of each fragrance varies by store, region and country.  For example, the best seller in the UK is Balmy Days & Sundays, in France it is Derring-Do, and in the USA it is After My Own Heart.  What I’ve found is that fragrance preference is so individual that there isn’t really a single thing that makes them register with people.  I’ve had several “fans” of certain of my perfumes write me via our website to tell me what it evokes for them, and it’s always different!  I’m just really happy when someone can connect to one of my fragrances, even though it’s often for reasons I didn’t foresee or intend when I created them.

Mark David: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves – it is to try the newest scent or product possible.   What can our guests look forward to in the New Product Release department?
My “E” fragrance, called “Evening Edged in Gold” is coming out in a couple of months.  The fragrance and the visual design are completed, and we’re just waiting for some packaging components to arrive (slowly on a boat from France).  It would be classified as a “woody oriental” in fragrance industry parlance, and contains some night-blooming flowers that we grow in our garden in San Francisco.  I may have a small sample in my pocket for those interested in having a sniff.

During the morning I’ll be at Bergdorf Goodman, where my fragrances are sold on the 5th Floor, Bergdorf’s contemporary floor.  It won’t be accessible until the store opens at 10:00 am, but I hope the Sniffapalooza community thinks of heading up there.  5F is Bergdorf’s young and fun floor, with great fashion and accessories brands like Marc Jacobs and Stella McCartney, a café and a fragrance outpost with a small selection of their “younger” lines, including mine.  If you miss me at Bergdorf Goodman, I’ll also be at Takashimaya on Saturday afternoon, where I’ll bring along some raw materials for people who are interested in how fragrances are constructed.  I look forward to meeting the Sniffapalooza group!   


Thank you so very much and we look forward to meeting you and your fragrances at Sniffapalooza's Fall Ball!   www.ineke.com


          





































Photographs courtsy of Inke and Bill O'Suchwww.ineke.com

Guerlain - Bergdorf Goodman's Sniffapalooza
Mark D'AVIRRO and Jason Beers will present the lastest releases.

COLOGNE DU 68

Some 153 years after Impériale Eau de Cologne earned Guerlain the title of
Exclusive Perfumer to the Emperor, Guerlain is once again throwing itself
into an eau de cologne venture. Forget nostalgia, this is in no way reminiscent
of gentlemanly eau de cologne as it was designed in the 19th century,
for Eau de Cologne 68 likes to fuel a love of paradox.

First of all, in the name which evokes the address of the Guerlain empire,
but in a shortened form that is likely to appeal to regulars at the Champs-Elysées
flagship!

A paradox also in the packaging design. A beautiful, tall minimalist bottle with
clean lines that seem to be reaching for infinity. An ambivalent sobriety in
which the false simplicity of the bottle boldly sports a superb Macassar ebony
stopper the top of which is decorated with a silver-plated metal plate engraved
with the double G. The whole thing is carefully wrapped in kraft paper. A long
time ago in the Guerlain perfume laboratories, the same kind of paper was stuck
onto nicely rounded demijohns to protect the precious natural raw materials
from the light.

A further paradox lies in the sophistication of a unisex product. He or she, him
and her, Cologne du 68 shatters the traditional mould. The “second sex” disappears in the mists of time and makes way for equality, at least on the surface.

The fragrance itself has an element of paradox. Being both fresh and spicy, a first in the history of Eau de Cologne, it will win hearts with its ultra-modern facets, nonetheless imprinted with the values of originality and quality cherished by the brand.  This contrast between warmth and cold is represented by a very precise choice of the raw materials used in the composition.  The final paradox is that Cologne du 68 lasts! Its extraordinary persistence contradicts the statement that eau de Cologne, by definition, has a fresh but short-lived scent.

The talent of Sophie Labbé takes us on a sumptuous, astonishing journey through the finest raw materials gathered from all over the world. The journey begins in the Hesperides where green mandarin and Italian petitgrain citronnier blend wonderfully with Mexican sweet lime, Chinese star anise and Italian cypress. The freshness persists and quickly intensifies with sharp accents of Russian coriander and Guatemalan cardamom. Then comes orange blossom picked with meticulous care in Tunisia. Its sunny facets entice voluptuous ginger conjuring up the heat of India, juxtaposed with accents of Chinese magnolia lightly dusted with Indonesian pepper. A new kind of bliss emerges from the sensual waves of Yugoslavian everlasting, so rare in perfume, whose skin-like accents harmonise with the recognisable scent of Hawaiian vetiver which, for the occasion, rubs shoulders with African opoponax and American cedar.

Available: November 2007 in Guerlain Boutiques in Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus San Francisco, Epcot Orlando and The Breakers West Palm Beach


QUAND VIENT LA PLUIE

This fragrance is a true work of art created by the talented perfumers,
Thierry Wasser and Sylvaine Delacourte.  Inspired by nature,
Quand vient la pluie means “when the first raindrops begin to fall.”

Aromatic and floral, its frosty rosemary and delicate orange blossom
combines with intense bergamot orange.  Then, as the first raindrops
begin to fall, with them rises the fragrant scent of blossoming summer
flowers including heliotrope, violet and jasmine. Just as the sun soon
reappears after a summer storm, the fragrance releases amber-based
accents and praline.

The absolutely sublime bottle was designed by Serge Mansau. 
A glass crystal sculpture in the form of a drop of rain contains
the perfume, displayed on a base adorned with a leaf. 
An ultra-luxurious and exclusive limited edition, the beautiful
reflections of this Perfume bottle blend with a delicately frosted
Swarovski crystal.

OLFACTORY PYRAMID:  Fresh, powdery and amber-based this
fragrance is available in an Eau de Parfum and Extract


SPIRITUEUSE DOUBLE VANILLE

If a colour or fragrance were to be
associated with each day, like the
planets were in ancient times,
sandalwood would be the Sun,
saffron would be Jupiter, and
without doubt vanilla would be Venus.
JEAN-PAUL GUERLAIN

Vanilla has always been a voyager at
Guerlain. It has been present throughout
Guerlain’s history, appearing in many
guises in perfumes as well as eaux de
toilette; it is a note that is unexpected
in Jicky, subtle in Eau Hégémonienne
and lavish in Shalimar.  Above all vanilla
has a majestic presence in Guerlain’s
signature accord, Guerlinade, which
can be found in all the perfume house’s
great creations.

Who could best express the extraordinary magic of this vanilla in a perfume? The purebred black vanilla pod that grows on tropical islands, with its unexpected and contrasting aromas?  A creative perfumer with a trained nose; a gourmet with refined taste buds who is familiar with its every subtlety – Jean-Paul Guerlain.

Thanks to Guerlinade of course, but also using his own vanilla plantation in Mayotte, not far from his ylang-ylang plantation.Two raw materials of which he is exceptionally fond.

To understand this Limited Edition Spiritueuse Double Vanille, you must first linger over the
name.  Spiritueuse? Yes, like a liqueur… on the skin. Exhilarating, compelling. Double Vanille? It could just as well have been called triple; it has such resonance, like an echo rebounding off the other notes in the composition.  Finally, it is as much a “taste” as an “aroma”, to be experienced not just once, but twice or three times, discovering a different aspect each time.A single vanilla pod is already a whole perfume in itself. Its many facets were the source of inspiration for Jean-Paul Guerlain’s accord.  For instance, vanilla has a spicy aspect, far removed from any sweet and childlike sentimentality.Thus, in the top note, slightly piquant and fruity pink peppercorns play with the fresh bergamot that instantly lightens the composition. Alongside the spices, you can very quickly sense a soft, resinous and woody note interpreted by incense which lingers at the top, giving way to cedar, a key element of the middle note, illustrating the woody aspect of the vanilla pod. Dry and elegant, with a dash of skittishness, this is the “backbone” of the fragrance, giving it its character. The flowers, Bulgarian rose and ylang-ylang from the Comoros islands add a feminine touch that fur ther accentuates the refinement of the wood to create an effective contrast. Then comes a base accord with the aphrodisiac sensuality of vanilla underscored by benzoin that keeps the resinous top notes of incense and spices alive.  Spiritueuse Double Vanille is a truly amazing composition in which each component conjures up the image of a boat journey, and the combined scent of the ship’s wooden hull with barrels of rum and crates of spices. It is also the olfactory notebook of an explorer, documenting the finest scents from the ends of the earth. The bottle recalls the historical link between Guerlain and vanilla. The label sparks off nostalgia for distant treasures and tells the full story of vanilla. As a finishing touch, the bee, Guerlain’s symbol since 1853, with Eau de Cologne Impériale, embodies the transformation from the flower of the orchid into its fruit: the vanilla pod, for it was originally the Melipona bee that pollinated the flower before the process began to be done by hand.


INTERVIEW WITH SYLVAINE DELACOURTE AND PIERRE HERMÉ

How is vanilla used in your two different worlds?
Sylvaine Delacourte: At Guerlain, vanilla is considered as an elegant ingredient above all else. It is always rendered to extremely high standards and is used in many of our perfumes. It is a key feature in “Guerlinade”, a compilation of Guerlain’s favourite raw materials, which include tonka bean, coumarin, sandalwood and ylang-ylang.This olfactory signature gives our perfumes depth, and imprints them in our memories. If I were to compare vanilla to a woman, I would say that it is not a classic beauty of simple regular features, but rather that her face shows a great deal of character.

Pierre Hermé: In my profession, vanilla is the base ingredient.You might even call it the baker’s “base note”.This is why working on the theme of vanilla immediately appealed to me. I don’t have a taste signature as such, but rather a style, using distinctive and contrasting flavours. I like to surprise the palate, because this is part of the pleasure of savouring food.

Are the same types of vanilla used in both perfumery and in baking?
Sylvaine Delacourte: There are two botanical species, Vanilla tahitensis and Vanilla planifolia. We usually use the latter as it has more nuances and is richer in flavour. It often comes from the Comoros islands or Tahiti.To intensify the trail of a fragrance, we combine the vanilla (in the form of tincture, absolute and super absolute) with one of its principal aromatic components, vanillin or ethyl vanillin. These raw materials enhance the natural products and give the perfume a true fragrant trail.

Pierre Hermé: I use both species, but I vary their origins to create a special “house” vanilla. My favourite three are those fromTahiti, Mexico and Madagascar.

You are both experts in your respective fields, where do their similarities lie?
Sylvaine Delacourte: First of all, smelling and tasting require training and practice. Great concentration is needed to perceive the subtleties of a creation. In both cases the ability to hold them in one’s memory plays an important role. Furthermore, taste and smell complement one another. For example, a vanilla from Madagascar reveals slightly smoky, almost leathery aromas and is subtly woody on the palate.

Pierre Hermé: Sylvaine is right, and this is probably the reason why I always smell before I taste. I often ask the opinion of a perfumer friend when choosing my vanillas.Another similarity is that the flavours of a pastry develop in the mouth just as a perfume does on the skin. For my house vanilla composition, I chose Tahitian vanilla, which has a roundness to it and lingers in the mouth, this is like the base note.Then I add Mexican vanilla, which is more floral and can be seen as the heart of the flavour. Finally, I include the light woody Madagascan vanilla which binds the other two together.

Sylvaine Delacourte: You make what we call in perfumery a “communelle” which involves selecting ingredients from different sources in order to create a rich and balanced accord.We do this for many of our natural materials, including vanilla. These communelles enable us to guarantee the constant quality of ingredients between different harvests, which is very important for Guerlain.

Pierre Hermé, how did you take inspiration from the Spiritueuse Double Vanille to create your macaroons?
It was the delicacy of the various facets of “Spiritueuse” that inspired me. I cloaked my vanilla
accord with cedar so that the two flavours reveal themselves almost simultaneously in the
mouth. It is important that neither flavour supplant the other and as you will notice in the
fragrance, I added a soupcon of rum.


SHALIMAR BLACK MYSTERY  HOLIDAY 2007

Among the most prominent and significant fragrances in history,
the original Shalimar was created as an ode to love in 1925.
To recapture that magical feeling for the holidays, Guerlain
reinterprets the Shalimar legend, with a nod to designer
Philippe Starck. Much like his famed black crystal Baccarat
chandelier, the latest offering from the Shalimar family is a
modern rare jewel. Crafted of smoky black crystal with
burnished gold accents, the beloved scent finds a new
home in this unusual and striking flacon.

Shalimar begins with an effervescent combination of fresh
citrus ingredients reminiscent of fine Champagne. 
Its elegant and feminine heart of luxurious flowers - jasmine,
rose, heliotrope and iris - drifts into a warm, sensual