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November 20, 2008
In this issue we feature The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Two- Nest Fragrances,
Le Cherche Midi, and Joya with featured interviews, Cinquieme Sens opens an Olfactory training center in New York City, view the stunning Holiday ‘08 from Bond No. 9 and UNDER THE RADAR: Estéban; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Dominique Alison CEO . We feature Scents in the City: Clyde’s on Madison Fragrant Gems Amidst the Bobby Pins: An Interview with General Manager Rick Friedland by and Blossom and Spice…and Everything Nice . We are also proud to feature in-depth interviews with two artisanal natural perfumers: Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums and an interview with Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery that includes a review; "Cat’s Meow" by Tonie Silver, Yves Rocher Secrets d' Essences Rose Absolute & Iris Noir and a new fragrance from Switzerland by Perfumer Brigitte Witschi, who created the new fragrance "edelweiss".
We share with you; The American Society of Perfumers Announces Honorees from its 2008 Perfumers’ Choice Awards, Nature’s Bounty: How to Smell ’Up’, Even When the Dow is Downnnnnnnnn; Just our Two Scents By Michelyn Camen, Parlux Fragrances signs Queen Latifah and Aftelier’s Mandy AfteI Introduces Cassis By Michelyn Camen. We offer Estée Lauder’s Vintage Jewels collection, Ormonde Jayne’s new multi-wick candle and new release of Ormonde Jayne’s Zizan, Chicago Entrepreneur launches “lifetherapy”, Strange Invisible Perfumes Holiday 2008 and Caron Paris Pays Tribute to Haute-Parfumerie with Montaigne Diamélite.
December 1, 2008
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Scentsational Holiday Gift Guide,
The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Three - Antica Farmacista, Archipelago Botanicals including interviews & "The Best of the Rest" , Viva La Juicy…The Grown Up Fragrance , UNDER THE RADAR: An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Salvatore Piazzolla of Hampton Sun and Parfums Mercedes Jus d'Amour new fragrance review by Juvy Santos. We also feature UPTOWN GIRL: Perfumer / Aromatherapist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz opens new design studio & storefront in Boulder Colorado's fashionable district and "A Good Pre-Christmas Sniff at First In Fragrance, Germany" By Bettina d’Onofrio.
Finally, Sniffapalooza Magazine is proud to make a special announcement!
THE fragrance event of the season is fast approaching and the one and only fragrance legend, Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World, has granted us an exclusive interview. We are thrilled to welcome MICHAEL EDWARDS in a rare appearance as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of his iconic fragrance reference books and revolutionary classification system at Sniffapalooza's 2008 Holiday Fete. Don't miss our next issue for the video and written interview with Mr. Edwards by Mark David Boberick.
A Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive
Burning Down The House Series
The Influencers Speak
Sniffapalooza Magazine and Michelyn Camen interviews Jean Claude Ellena; In-House Perfumer of the House of Hermès, Michel Roudnitska, Mandy Aftel, Kilian Hennessy, Chandler Burr Perfume Critic for the New York Times, George Wuchsa-The Global E-tailer of First-In-Fragrance, Ron Robinson of Apothia, Andy Tauer, Yosh Han, Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood of LuckyScent, Vero Kern and Sarah Horowitz-Thran.
The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams of Sniffapalooza.com
Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz ‘Les Christophs’, Nobi Shioyo of
S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances and Robin K. of Now Smell This blog.
Niche fragrance at its best is cutting edge, thought provoking and controversial. These are our anti-heroes and heroines of scent. Some are outspoken, some stay hidden in the shadows. All are unique.
Why did the sales of niche fragrances double within the last year and a half, while the commercial fragrance industry is losing ground? With nearly a thousand new launches a year, millions spent in advertising, flanker after flanker, what is happening to our fragrant world? I posed this question to a group of industry ‘influencers’ (les nez, the retailers, the niche and artisnal perfumers, the critics, the bloggers, and the owners of fine fragrance companies), who are leaving their thumbprints, as unique as their words, on the match that is burning down ‘the house of mediocrity’.
In this extraordinary edition of “Burning Down the House”, an unprecedented panel of fragrance game-changers and some of the greatest innovators in the Fragrance industry share their personal perspectives and thought-provoking answers to the question:
“What are your feelings about the state of contemporary fragrance and how do you think the industry must evolve in order to stay relevant to an oversaturated market?”
Their words are uncut, unplugged, unedited.
In a series written exclusively for Sniffapalooza Magazine, prepare yourself for a multi sensory olfactive journey, where fragrances embrace the worlds of fiction, fine art, film, music and dance.
Tales, myths, and larger than life characters thrive in the world of perfumery and this is what makes perfumery mysterious, multifaceted, intriguing, magical, and forever wavering between fact and fiction. In Volume 1, Book 1i. we meet the niche ‘feminines’ who had most profound effects on us from both a literary and olfactive perspective.
In Volume 1, Book ii we meet a Cop and three Queens, a pampered socialite and a woman of ill repute, and an aging beauty and a Goddess. These fictional and/or iconic women span centuries and continents, blurring the lines between truth and fiction and time --- from the 10th century BC to the Year 2058. These are their fragrances; the scents that would bring them to life and live forever in the realm of our imagination.
Part 3 features Men in fiction – flawed as all men (and women) are, but men who dare to dream, to rule or to experience. Whether they are vilified or placed high atop a pedestal, here are five iconic men who 'lived' in a world long before our own time. These men will always resonate with us and are brought to life here through fragrance.
Don't miss the past issues of Sniffapalooza Magazine!
January 6, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: An Interview with Camille Goutal, Artistic Director; Annick Goutal Parfums, we feature the continuing series "Real Men Wear Violets" By Michael W. Davis and The Scent of a Woman: Verno Kern’s Rubj" . We continue this issue with "Milieu…The Fragrance for the New Year" and "An Old Chypre Recipe Reborn; Aedes Attains A Class Act With Une Histoire De Chypre" By Barbara vanBok. We also offer the press release for the NEW Bond No. 9 BROOKLYN fragrance and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews New York City Perfumer Alexis Karl of Scent by Alexis, we introduce two new products; the new release of PureDistance Parfume and a Puredistance Perfume Lounge opens in Vienna, we close out with ExfoliShave.
January 13: Due to the overwhelming response to our interview with Camille Goutal, Ms. Goutal has expanded her interview and in this edition reveals many new personal insights.
Jean-Claude Ellena Réinventés Vanilla
Hermès Hermessence Introduces Vanille Galante
As he did for Brin de Réglisse,( the seventh fragrance of the Hermessence collection), Jean-Claude Ellena, the house perfumer of Hermès, decided to challenge himself as a perfumer, by building a fragrance on the concept of a basic raw material
With the debut of Vanille Galante, it is Vanilla. Like lavender, (key ingredient in Brin de Réglisse) vanilla is a very common component in perfumery and in a more general way to fragrance; it has become common place… either commercial and mundane or artificially sweet and ‘straight from the bakery’.
The idea for Mr. Ellena was to invite us to “re-discover” the natural beauty of vanilla -the real one- far away from the synthetic one called vanillin, used in everything from fragrance to air fresheners. For that he worked from a new pure extract of natural vanilla. And the challenge was to make it light, airy not as strong and heavy as it often used as a raw or synthetic material.
Below is a quote of Jean-Claude Ellena telling this part of the story:
“I wanted to respond to this smell which could
be described as lazy and repetitive - and some
see that as its strength - with an invitation to
rediscover another vanilla, an unusual, complex
and paradoxical one like a fragile plant after a
long winter, one you hope to see flower again,
all the more unexpectedly…”
In his own words, Mr. Ellena describes the multi
sensorial experience of Vanille Galante:
“Vanille Galante is the fragrance of a strange
flower as light as a trade wind, wafting under
our noses with hints of spice, cognac and
smoked wood, somewhere between petals
and cigars, skin and cocoa.”
Available in February at Hermès Boutiques worldwide
Writer’s Note: After testing Vanilla Galante on four men and six women, there wasn’t one ‘tester’ that did not beg to keep the bottle.
By Michelyn Camen
The Magical Allure of Fragrances in Fairyland
A Perfume Review
There is no doubt that a spell was cast on the perfumery industry in 2008. The creation of three charming and enchanting fragrances landed on the shelves of fine departments stores and boutiques in three corners of the world. First, from France the prestigious jewelry house of Van Cleef & Arpels delights our senses with the new eau de parfum: Feerie.
This fragrance was inspired by a Midsummer’s Night’s Dream fine jewelry collection. The sparkle and glitz of violets is the center piece in this creation with blackcurrant, Italian mandarin that gives it a whimsical flavor and then a whiff of Bulgarian Rose and Egyptian Jasmine softens with a feminine, sensual touch. Finally Florentine Iris butter and Haitian vetiver completes the allure with sophistication.
Not only will this fragrance take your breath away but the beautifully faceted blue, Feerie bottle with a silver top featuring a moon flower cabochon and a tall, slender branch providing a perch for the graceful fairy on top is a collector’s item for years to come. Feerie Eau de Parfum 100ml is $150.00 and Eau de Parfum 50ml is $110.00 and can be found exclusively at Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Van Cleef & Arpels boutiques.
Next on the red carpet is a fragrance to captivate young women in every corner of the world which is the mission statement from Parlux Fragrances, the distributor of Fairy Dust by Paris Hilton. This youthful scent is light and airy just waiting for any aspiring fairy to take a quick sniff of its floral notes of Pink Peony and Orange Blossom with a hint of Prosecco Accord. Gently the magic wand sprinkles some Gardenia and Water Lily with the aroma of Peach Nectar to give a boost of femininity. My favorite scent is Vanilla but in this case Vanilla Crème and Cashmere Musk surrounds Sueded Patchouli to hypnotize and charm the birds out of the tree.
Yuzu Rouge by Parfums 06130 is a refreshing and exotic blend of Japanese yuzu fruit, grapefruit and rose. A niche classic. Available at www.aedes.com
Campos di Ibizia Reviews
by Kathy Patterson
Campos di Ibiza, or “Ibiza’s Countryside,” intends to evoke with their line of eaux de toilettes the scented essence of this western Balearic Island that is also a popular European vacation destination. Not just fragrant breezes on which to float away, these scents also have a bit of a Parisian touch in their use of high-quality ingredients.
Agua de Rosas
Notes: green apple, tangerine, orange, bergamot, rose, freesia, magnolia, ylang ylang, carnation, violet, sandalwood, moss, musk
Agua de Rosas is like a refreshing Agua Fresca, a Mexican beverage of fruit, water, and sugar. It starts out with a tart green apple note and touches of citrus. The floral bouquet that appears next is heavy on the freesia, not as much with the rose. The combination of notes is not unlike a bit of fresh watermelon. Indeed, the “agua” of the name is apparent in a watery undertone to the scent. It’s wonderfully light and fragrant. In the drydown, the lightness is slightly grounded by a bit of sheer musk, but it never loses its “agua” quality. Lovely.
Mandarina Eau de Toilette
Notes: tangerine, bergamont, lemon, vervain, orange, galbanum, petitgrain, artemisia, lavender, basil, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, geranium, jasmine, amber, moss, cedar
Mandarina is all about citrus. How can it not be with that combination of notes? It starts out bracing and fresh, with lots of bergamot, orange, and the more floral verbena. The floral notes don’t particularly stand out on their own but form a support to the long lasting citrussy qualities of the top notes. And the drydown is quite delicious with its lightly herby woodsiness. If you’re looking for a non-sweet citrus scent, this may be one for you.
Essencia de Higo Eau de Toilette
Notes: coconut, strawberry, mandarin, grapefruit, cedar, fig leaves, lavender, musk, sandalwood, amber
Higo starts out with a bright fruitiness balanced on a dry green fig. At first the coconut washes the scent in a tiny bit of creaminess, and the lavender adds a touch of herbaceousness to bolster the greenness of the fig leaves. The base notes appear pretty quickly, with the sandalwood and musk blending with the coconut and softening the hard edges of the green notes. By the drydown, the fig seems completely submerged in a rich soup of musky coconut, like a dessert version of the Thai favorite Tom Kha Gai. Ok, that’s a little strange, but there’s something about this particular scent that makes me think more of Asia than an island in the Mediterranean. Regardless, it’s a great fig scent that might please both those who are fans of dry fig fragrances and those who prefer them a bit on the sweet side.
Notes: basil, bergamot, lemon, grapefruit, juniper, cinnamon, sandalwood, white musk
Cedro starts out with a pleasantly green and fresh basil note married to a variety of tangy citrusy ones. It’s light and bright, and then juniper and cinnamon pop in to spice things up a little. Finally, in the drydown, there’s a touch of sandalwood and a sheer white musk.
Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Exclusive Interview with Ms. DelRae Roth
CEO, Creative Director of Parfums DelRae
(With Michel Roudnitska)
The complexities of relationship between the owner or the Creative Director of a perfume brand and ‘le nez’ is one that is still kept a secret by many companies.
One of the most successful collaborations in niche fragrances is between the dynamic DelRae Roth, the visionary behind Parfums DelRae and the renowned perfumer Michel Roudnitksa. In this exclusive interview with DelRae Roth we introduce Emotionnelle, the latest fragrance in the ongoing collaboration between DelRae Roth and Michel Roudnitska and gain rare insight into the creative process of one of niche’s most celebrated lines of perfumes. We thank Ms. Roth for the opportunity to be one of the first magazine’s to experience Emotionnelle.
MC: Please give a very brief description of what inspired you to create Parfums DelRae, and why you decided to create a line of fragrances?
DR: The simple answer is that I wanted to change my life! And in thinking seriously about that, I knew that I wanted to combine some of the things I loved, and was ready to take risks and to put myself 'out there'. A friend said, it was time to exercise my 'savoir faire'. Also I was increasingly disappointed with what the perfume world was putting on the market. I felt that there was an audience for more inspired, exquisite perfumes. It was almost 2001, and the niche market was just starting to get attention. So the timing seemed right.
DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae
photo credit: Zenobia Barlow
MC: What distinguishes Parfums DelRae from the hundreds of the new niche line? What is truly different about the brand and the perfumes? The names of your fragrances seem to be spot on to each scent.
DR: I think Parfums DelRae is distinguished in the niche market by the complexity and originality of the fragrances. My vision is of rich, complex perfume, with a classical construction, using wonderful materials. The concentration is at 17%—20%, I don't use any colorings or preservatives— the quality is paramount.
MC: DelRae, the niche market is so crowded, what are your thoughts about these hundreds of fragrances claiming to be niche? In your opinion, what qualifies a scent as a niche perfume?
DR: The niche market has really exploded, as the industry is really looking to niche to see where to go. It’s where the real risks are taken. To me, a niche brand represents genuine quality and exclusivity. And, perhaps most importantly, these brands have a vision, a real point of view. And because of this focus, these brands tend to be smaller and have a creative visionary directing development. My experience suggests that it is not possible to be innovative and qualitative if you are trying to satisfy everyone.
MC: All your five fragrances were formulated by Michel Roudnitska, one of the greatest contemporary perfumers in the world. How did you meet? What is the secret of your ongoing collaborative relationship?
DR: I had the concepts for my first three perfumes fairly well developed. I began ordering oils from France and mixing and so on. But I realized early on that I needed to work with someone who had the training in fine perfumery to assist me. I had the ideas, the creative direction, but not the formal training. And I didn't want to go back to school! So, I contacted Michel, introduced myself, explained my situation and my ideas, and asked if he was open to working this way.
It was quite straightforward and also very unusual at the time, as I was American, a woman and not from this 'world". I went to the south of France and Michel and I began working.
I think the success of our collaboration is, as in all satisfying collaborative efforts, that we respect each other. We each bring something to the table, as it is my company, I bring the creative concept, the name of the perfume and direct the development of the perfume until it is at the point where I am very pleased and feel it reflects my intention. With that of course, as it is my company, I also assume all the risk.
Michel, has the technical background, and great passion for the art form, and he appreciates this very wonderful creative opportunity. Collaborations can be difficult and complicated. As a designer I am very much use to this kind of creative process, and I find that if a person is talented and secure, they will often be open, appreciative and generous. To create something at this intimate level, freely, collaboratively, it’s a very great luxury.
MC: How does the process work? You live San Francisco and Michel is in France. How do you achieve such amazing scent synergy?
DR: I always meet first with whomever I work with, because I need to explain the idea, and to see their reaction. I want to be sure that the concept excites them. With Michel, because the first three perfumes were so influenced by San Francisco, he also came here and we talked and walked. I showed him some of the places I love, so he could really understand. Along with my trips to France, FedEx and email it all works very well.
MC: The names of your fragrances seem to be spot on to each scent. Which comes first the 'emotion/fragrance name ' or the fragrance itself?
DR: I name all of my children! It is very important to me that the name reflect the personality of the perfume and help tell the story. I decide on the name for the perfume at the very beginning when I am conceptualizing the fragrance.
MC: Parfums DelRae is best known for Bois de Paradis. When I was the Editorial Director at Beauty News, both Karen Dubin, (the founder of Sniffapalooza) and I gave it an award as 2007’s “ Scent Masterpiece” Did you have any idea when you approved the last lab sample that it would be such a critical and commercial success?
DR: Well, you never know what will happen. Bois was difficult to fine tune. It took quite a while until I felt the balance-rose, wood, spice, gourmand-was right. I was particularly focused that it not be too sweet, not too woody. Bois de Paradis has a very sensual personality, and so it "shows" very well. And, I am thrilled so many people love it.
MC: Your latest fragrance ‘Emotionnelle’ is
so very different from anything you have created.
Already the blogs are hypothesizing and guessing
why 'melon' was chosen as a central ingredient.
Set everyone straight, this is an amazing
fragrance, as I was privileged to receive a sample a few months ago. Tell us the story of Emotionnelle.
Who was the woman you created this scent for?
DR: I was going through an old journal that I had kept while staying in Paris and noted many of the things I enjoyed eating, smelling. This was an important trip for me, I was a bit 'a drift' and it’s when I fell in love with Paris, and began to feel at home. It was an emotional trip, and represented a big shift for me personally. I began to wonder if I could make a perfume reflecting this feeling of possibility, expansiveness. What would that smell like?
Michel, thank you very much for joining us for this interview. Can you give our readers your perspective and tell us more about the composition of Emotionelle?
Michel Roudnitska: Emotionelle was the result of a close collaboration between DelRae and me. She had quite a precise idea of what she wanted to express through this fragrance, it was related to memories of her trip to Paris 25 years ago. A very emotional trip which changed her life: "As it is for many people, Paris became my “idealized” place, where the drama and poignant beauty of life seemed filled with endless possibilities. Dreams seemed to be within reach, and everyday was filled with excitement and revelations.
After DelRae mentioned some ingredients she would like to be in this fragrance as bergamot, cardamoms, plum, violet, jasmin, angelic, amber, vanilla, tonka beans, musk, I began working on this new concept with no preconceived idea, just starting from zero. After a few months and several tests, the fragrance was well balanced but lacking of personality, so I proposed to add some new notes on which I have been working for 20 years and that could fit with this accord. It was a personal composition based on melon, violet leaf and some spicy leather notes.
DelRae liked this new approach and even encourage me to increase this specific melon note combined with the jasmine note. This gave to the fragrance a more sparkling, "gourmand" and addictive aspect that was in complete harmony with my own taste.
I really love this fragrance: it's the fusion of DelRae's dream and mine, an "accord" quite difficult to achieve because of the violent and unusual aspects of some green top notes, but when you have accepted to go through this first reaction, you become completely addicted to this fragrance.
MC: Please share with us the olfactive composition of Emotionnelle-
Violet flowers and leaves/Jasmine/ Rose/Prune/Iris
MC: DelRae, when and where will Emotional be launched?
DR: We will launch Emotionnelle in late February/ early March at Barneys New York.
By Michelyn Camen
And so I proposed this idea to Michel, together with the name, my list of ingredients and the olfactive profile to begin. The melon note was added towards the end of the development. I very much wanted to create something unusual and beautiful. I love Charentais melons (with port poured in the center it is divine!), so the melon note was quite interesting to me. The melon adds transparency, freshness, and a certain mouthwatering quality, plus it enhances some of the other notes, especially the violet. I don't think of it as the center of the perfume, but it does introduce the "cast of characters" in a very compelling and interesting way. I think this perfume will appeal to women who are sensual, creative and sophisticated.
Do you believe in fairy tales? By now you should be convinced that fairies come in all shapes and sizes but the magic never ends. My review would not be complete if I did not mention, Tinker Bell. You know from the magical world of Disney. I present to you now featured on the red carpet of fragrances, Disney Fairies (for women) by Air-Val International. Air-Val International was founded in 1979 in Barcelona (Spain) and was instrumental in creating the niche market for children’s fragrances with the launch in 1981 of the first Disney fragrances. Fairies for women features Tinker Bell and her friends in the beautiful world of Pixie Hollow. This fragrance is enchanting with its citrus zest of orange, grapefruit, mandarin orange, red apple and melon spunkiness. The gentle warmth of jasmine and the cool breeze of passionfruit, raspberry and pineapple keeps you entrance with a wink of musk and vanilla to keep harmonious with nature.
This adorable fragrance comes in an original metallic box shaped like a pink flower with petals. The bottle inside is a rare gem and a must for all perfume bottle collectors. Fairies Eau de Toilette 50ml is for $20.00 and can be purchased directly from Air-Val International.
This is the perfect start to fairy tales and dreams come true.
Fairy Dust by Paris Hilton comes in a clear bottle with a shapely fairy casting a spell on front of the bottle. It is capped with a peek of turquoise twinkling out of a faceted ‘crystal’ to bring out the evening stars. This fragrance comes in Eau de Parfum Spray 3.4 oz for $55.00 and Eau de Parfum Spray 1.7 oz for $45.00 and can be found at fine department stores.
Kathy Patterson has had an interest in fragrance all her life. Some of her fondest memories involve digging through her mother's toiletries and playing with her scented soaps. (She hated Mom's Youth Dew though.) At the ripe age of 40, Kathy discovered niche scents and Sniffapalooza. Now she's getting out of hand with the perfume collection, and her husband Neal thinks she's maybe a little crazy. Kathy is a jewelry designer/graphic artist/research analyst who lives in Baltimore, MD with her loving hubby and two cats. You can find her all over the place as theminx,including her site, http://theminx.com.
Kathy Patterson has been with Sniffapalooza Magazine since it's inception and her reviews and articles can be found in numerous links.
Another Birthday? Wear Grapefruit
That’s right. A woman of a ‘certain age’ can bathe herself in the fountain of youth. Recent studies from the Smell & Taste Treatment and Research Foundation show that the the scent of grapefruit on women make them seem younger to men.¹
Institute director Alan Hirsch said he “smeared several middle-aged women with broccoli, banana, spearmint leaves, and lavender but none of those scents made a difference to the men.”
But the scent of grapefruit changed men's perceptions. Hirsch said “that when male volunteers were asked to write down how old the woman with grapefruit odor was, the age was considerably less than reality, on average of six years.”
Face it; you are not going to settle for a crate from Florida. Choose rare and artisnal grapefruit based scents that are as beautifully bottled (no rinds, no pits) as they are fragrant. Here’s a sampler of Sniffapalooza Magazine’s favorites grapefruit fragrances:
What IF you could look six years younger with a single spritz? Apothia’s IF is clean and light, with top notes of zesty grapefruit and sparkling yuzu, ending in a deep romantic drydown of white florals. www.ronrobinson.com CAUTION: Combining grapefruit and bubblegum might make you look younger than your teenage daughter! These two notes are key ingredients in Ayala Moriel’s Fetish, an unusual blend of citrus, gourmand and tea notes. www.ayalamoriel.com
1873 by Histoires de Parfums was inspired by Colette, the French author who dallied with much younger men. Notes of grapefruit and orange blossom and bring to mind her extraordinary book Flowers and Fruits. (1873 is one of my personal favorites).
For a burst of sunshine in a bottle, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Pamplemousse contains both pink and white grapefruit oils. This fragrance will make you smile. And when you smile, you always look great (no matter what your age). www.dshperfumes.com and www.hamptoncourt.com
¹a grapefruit fragrance on men does nothing for them.
By Michelyn Camen
Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Trina Lewis
Natural perfumer, Founder and Director of HipLilly Aroma Couture™
Trina, can you tell us briefly about yourself?
For a long time I have worked in big corporations, did the MBA thing and had a successful career as a management consultant, which is all very nice – but a long way from the world of a natural perfumer! All along I felt somewhat unfulfilled ….I must have been a rose picking peasant in a past life … My mother has always been very creative, but as I had lost myself in the corporate world, I think she sadly assumed her creativity gene had been lost on me. Well, in the end she was delighted to discover I had found it in my nose! I turned 40 recently – and now more than ever I know that life is too short to be working in a space that doesn’t touch your soul – so I have chosen to move more and more into my space as a natural perfumer! Now I combine my entrepreneurial flare with my talent for perfume – which is a very rewarding combination.
What led you to perfumery, especially natural perfumery?
Several years ago I started a business that focused on online retailing of natural products. It was all about products that were as close to nature as possible, for all aspects of our lives. When it came to perfume, I found that there were no credible natural perfume brands made here in Australia, and I started to source them from Europe. I thought this was a wasted opportunity, and decided to build my own brand here in Australia. I have since sold the online retail business, but retained and developed the part of the business I loved – Hip Lilly!
In terms of how I developed my skills, I essentially started with knowledge of aromatherapy, and then did lots and lots of research in natural perfumery. As well as contemporary literature, I spend hours and hours reading old literature on perfumery in our national library. I found the notion of traditional French perfumery very romantic, it captured my imagination and I started build perfumes based on the traditional French perfumery principles. This took me so far – then I wanted to learn more. I searched around and found a teacher of natural perfumery who I engaged to expand my experience and learning, and from then there was no looking back! I am hooked and really feel natural perfumery is a beautiful gift, not only to those who use the perfumes, but to me who loves the experience of exploring and creating with beautiful botanical oils.
There must have been a defining moment that led you to become a perfumer.
How did that happen?
As mentioned above, the catalyst for me was seeing an opportunity to capture a niche market in Australia with an Australian made product. But the defining moment for me being comfortable introducing myself as a natural perfumer came after several people who I really respect as having great style, taste and honestly declared they loved my perfumes, and could find at least one they committed to wearing regularly.
EDITORS NOTE: A recent addition to Sniffapalooza Magazine was the inclusion of a page dedicated to "naturals" so that they could express their own views in the magazine. I believe that perfumers from every part of the industry should have the opportunity to be heard. My approach has been to let individual readers decide who they wish to seek out. I believe that natural perfumers should have a chance at the same amount of exposure as all other perfumes. It was gratifying to find that the response from readers was overwhelming in their support. Everyone is welcome into "our house", perfumers small or large. I do not care if a fragrance is "natural" , "semi-natural" or not; not all pure "naturals" agree with me and "natural" does not automatically mean "superior". Some people are allergic to certain naturals. All I care about is a fragrances artistic beauty, the quality of a fragrance and how it makes me feel. I also own numerous gorgeous natural fragrances. It's very personal and subjective but is always about "The Juice." My mission statement for this project is: Our readers are pretty savvy and I think they are fascinated by all aspects of fragrance, if you look at the guest book in the magazine, I think that shows. I believe that everyone deserves their 15 minutes of fame-everyone deserves to shine, no matter how “big or how small”. I leave it up to individuals to decide who they wish to support - that is not up to me. This naturals section is for those who are intrigued by the very interesting and wild world of "The Naturals". -RB For more natural perfumers go to: The Natural's Page, much more in the next few months!
What power do fragrances have over people, do you think, if any?
Fragrances, in particular natural fragrances, how the power to change the moment – it may sound cliché, but they can lift the spirit and move the soul! And natural perfumes possess a vitality that eludes synthetic fragrances, having an even more powerful effect on the emotions.
Why do you think so many women and men are part of this fragrance explosion, especially the natural trend?
There are so many artificial things in our lives, I think that consciously and sub-consciously we are starting to reject them. Our bodies naturally know what is good and bad for them – and too much synthetic fragrance is bad! Unfortunately it is hard to avoid these days, so now more and more people are acting with a deeper level of consciousness around this and going out of their way to seek out a natural option that works for them. And, of course, natural perfume can be very beautiful in its own right.
Where are your fragrances available for sale at? What is your web site?
Our range can be bought online at www.hiplilly.com.au and we are available at several retailers in Australia (see the website for details). Our range is gradually expanding, and we soon plan to incorporate our beautiful perfumes into bath and body products also.
Trina, thank you so much for taking the time to talk to us!
Raphaella, what a fabulous opportunity to talk to you about my favorite topic! And congratulations on your magazine – I think it is an amazing contribution to the world of perfume and a great resource for professional and enthusiasts alike!
Tell us about some of your favorite fragrances you’ve created.
I started with 4 perfumes, and now have extended the range to include four fragrances for Men (which have proven very popular) and four new perfumes for women – Morocco, Florence, Bliss and Zen. Not being very good with names in my Hip Lilly for men range, I rather unimaginative called them Hipman1, Hipman2, Hipman3, & Hipman4. I also have several other perfumes for women currently in under construction.
My first four perfumes were all quite different – so there was something there for everyone. Grace is a beautiful, romantic, complex floral bouquet highlighted with precious notes of rose, jasmine & neroli. Madonna is my favorite! Divine, sweet & intoxicating, Madonna is highlighted with precious orange blossom, in a background of deep woody and light citrus notes. Goddess is seductive, deeply earthy & sensual, with soft floral and citrus top notes…warm, lush and bohemian! Angel is a delicious uplifting perfume, packed with dreamy jasmine and delightful citrus notes!
Hip Lilly natural perfumes are complex in their construction, each having its own personality and reads differently on different people. I love the way natural perfumes modulate on your skin overtime as they interact with your personal chemistry, making them so unique. Perfume is obviously a very personal choice, and I believe our fragrances are bound to capture the imagination of even the fussiest perfume connoisseur!
As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration?
I find my inspiration in the beauty of the botanical oils I use. Each botanical oil, in its purity, has a unique story to tell. I find they can really impact my emotional state and take me to different place in my mind. In terms of finding the right moment to create, I find I have to work myself up to a period of creating new perfumes. I think about it for as long as is required, then when the stars seem to align, bang, I am unstoppable! As it can be so all consuming, I instinctively ensure I have enough time and space to explore where the perfume wants to take me. A glass of fine red wine and classical background music always helps the process along…
Were you inspired by any one perfumer?
Mandy Aftelier. I really love her books and her perfumes are beautiful.
What was your favorite fragrance growing up?
Poison. Very unfashionable now I am sure, but I loved it, and wore it thick and heavy! Purple was a good color in the 80’s!
What is the most amazing fragrance you have ever smelled?
One of my own I must say – no name – it is just for me! It is a beautiful creation with Honeysuckle as the highlight. Honeysuckle is one of my favorite oils. I love all the sweet ones!
Can you tell us what Natural Perfumery means to you?
Natural perfume is how I express my creativity. It is a form of art for the nose and
senses, allowing the highest degree of aesthetic expression. I believe that natural
essences possess a vitality that eludes synthetic fragrances. I also believe natural
perfumery allows us to minimize our exposure to chemicals that may be harmful
over the long term; why would you buy synthetic when nature offers such superior
alternatives? Our tag line for Hip Lilly Aroma Couture ™ is “Embrace the Divine
Scents of Nature™. Hip Lilly perfumes are popular among those who don’t want
to be defined by mainstream commercial brands. We promote the thinking that
“Real is in, synthetic is out!”. Of course, we do want our brand to be experienced
by more than the already converted, and it is difficult to capture the attention of people is a crowded marketed full of massive advertising spend and the allure of celebrity. In affect we have to do is appeal to a deeper level of consciousness in people, to encourage them to reach out and try something different.
The Allure of Amber
Since antiquity, ambergris, now referred to as amber, has been one of the most valued perfume ingredients. Labeled an aphrodisiac with mystical powers, it is said that solid ambergris will retain its perfume for three centuries or more. It used as a bottom note in many memorable fragrances for men and women. Amber dates back thousands of years (known as Rose of Sharon and one of only twelve fragrance oils listed in Biblical scriptures. This month, we present a selection of amazing ambers—where this seductive resinous oil is front and center.
Parfums MCDI is a French high-end niche line showcasing the work of well-known perfumers. The fragrances are presented in limited edition, numbered crystal flacons. Ambre Topkapi, created by renowned and retired perfumer Pierre Bourdon (creator of Escada Escada, Frederic Malle’s Bois d’Orage – aka French Lover and the ever popular Davidoff Cool Water) is targeted to men, but it is an androgynous amber that can easily be worn by women. The bottom notes of sweet vanilla and sandalwood temper the powerful notes of oak moss, vétyver, sandalwood, rosewood, and leather. Although this is a bracing scent, unexpected, precious, almost feminine qualities are brought by jasmine and violet. It is intense and complex; fruity notes such as Bergamot, grapefruit, pineapple, and melon dance a Turkish whirling dervish with spicy and herbal notes of cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, ginger, basil, thyme and lavender. We recommend you try before you buy—a sample from www.luckyscent.com is $4.00, but the bottle is $600.00!!!! Also available at www.luckyscent.com, the online Parfumista’s ‘Dream Boutique’ is the superb Ambre Russe by Parfums D’Empire. Amber, usually a warm scent, is transformed by the icy blast of cold vodka. It is a baroque, luxurious perfume; its notes of vodka, champagne, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, ambergris, vanilla, spell excess. We hear “Lara’s Theme from the movie Dr. Zhivago each and every time we wear this. Omar, where are you? The Armani Privé line of fragrances was the result of Giorgio Armani’s (very logical) desire to own a scent nobody else was wearing; it was meant to be a private collection of fragrances for himself and for his close friends. Price was no object; Armani wanted only the finest, purest ingredients, as natural as possible. The perfumes were to be complex compositions, a unisex “haute couture” line. Ambre Soie was inspired by the silk fabrics Mr. Armani found during his travels to North Africa and to the East. Ambre Soie is an exotic marriage of patchouli cinnamon, cloves and ginger. The beautiful black matte bottle features an amber colored jewel-like stopper that is an ‘objet’ in itself. Available at www.giorgioarmanibeauty.com and select Saks Fifth Avenue Stores. Speaking of ‘objets’, we adore L’Artisan Parfumeur’s hand made and meticulously carved Amber Ball. This perforated wood ball of fragrance, contains an exclusive solid amber fragrance. Intense and rich, it wafts through the air for up to two years. When the scent dissipates, buy the refillable crystals to refresh the fragrance. Available at www.lartisanparfumeur.com and at Henri Bendel. One of the premier online fragrance emporiums, www.beautyhabit.com is so comprehensive a source for unusual amber fragrances; we had trouble limiting ourselves to two!
Golden Amber is Becker.eshaya’s second signature fragrance. It’s an unusual amber scent; a blend of fresh mandarin and Calabrian bergamot. Sparkling with juicy lychee and Moroccan jasmine all wrapped in golden amber. The bottom notes are sultry sandlewood and musk. Golden Amber is bold, confident, and sexual. Go for it—it’s a new fragrance for a New You in the New Year.
i Profumi di firenze is one of our favorite fragrance lines; their scents are timeless and harmonize beautifully on the skin (Muschio e Ambra won an Award as did Vaniglia del Madagascar). Ambre del Nepal is heavenly Nepalese amber laced with earthy cardamom and creamy vanilla–sinfully sensual and lusciously luxe.
Miuccia Prada’s first fragrance was simply named Prada. This amber infused best seller based its formula on a mix of tradition and innovation. Amber is the star; benzoin, patchouli, labdunum and sandalwood are the worthy supporting cast. Prada fragrance is offered in a wide variety of perfumed products, including Neiman Marcus’s 100th Anniversary Limited Edition Parfum Deluxe Atomizer. Only 100 pieces were made, and its insanely decadent removable crocodile leather base in a vivid deep, plum color has us wishing for a windfall. Available at www.neimanmarcus.com One of Sniffapalooza's Best Scent 2007 Award winning perfumers, Mandel Aftel creates fragrances she blends from organic and natural essences without the use of any synthetic ingredients. Her line, Aftelier has carved out an enviable niche making natural perfumes for the likes of Madonna and Liv Tyler, (and the rest of us) has created one of the most interesting ambers we tested. Simply named Amber, it is a truly unforgettable scent. An ambery lavender spray with hints of pink pepper and bergamot in a base of organic grape alcohol the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. You will wear and he will wear it; it will amaze you both. Available at www.aftelier.com Pacifica, (the American fragrance and candle company known for never using animal ingredients or testing) recently launched Spanish Amber an exotic, sweet and feminine fragrance. A warming blend with resinous amber notes at its heart and base, we smell rosy geranium, sandalwood and citrusy bergamot at the top. We love it even more because it’s not only beautiful but so affordably priced –under $20.00. Available at www.pacificacandles.com
By Michelyn Camen
DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae
photo credit: Zenobia Barlow
January 19, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: Jean-Claude Ellena Réinventés Vanilla; Hermès Hermessence Introduces Vanille Galante , Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Exclusive Interview and breaking news item with Ms. DelRae Roth CEO, Creative Director of Parfums DelRae as she speaks of the latest fragrance Emotionelle with Michel Roudnitska . We also feature The Magical Allure of Fragrances in Fairyland, A Perfume Review, Campos di Ibizia Reviews by Kathy Patterson, Another Birthday? Wear Grapefruit , Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Trina Lewis Natural Perfumer, Founder and Director of HipLilly Aroma Couture™ and we finish this issue with The Allure of Amber.
December 15, 2008
In this issue we feature "Fragrance for the Designated Driver: ‘Spritzers’ That Leave Us Giddy" , we welcome a new guest contributor, Elena Vosnaki features a in-depth article "Jean Claude Ellena Is All About The Dirt!", "A Holiday Treat, an interview with the incomparable Monsieur Olivier Creed , "A Tale of Two Cities: Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne" By Michael W. Davis and we feature the continuing series UNDER THE RADAR: Red Flower; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Founder and Owner,
We continue this issue with Voluspa Floraison Collection: The Fragrances of Luxurious and Faraway Places , a new Bond No. 9 release called Boca, Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview the well-known Dominique Dubrana; Composer Perfumer of the Italian company La Via del Profumo, we offer a very warm welcome to John E. Smith, an author and herbalist with his article "Attars -Fragrances Of The Soul" and Bergdorf Blends Ajne for Blokes and finally, we end with my favorite "Christmas Present Fragrant Picks". We close out this issue with some photographs from the Sniffapalooza Holiday Fete last weekend in New York City with Michael Edwards and watch for our exclusive interview coming soon!
October 18, 2008
Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City
In this huge and special issue we continue to feature the spectacular must-see series titled Burning Down the House : The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited with The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, talk to Sniffapalooza Magazine. The House sizzles in this issue.
We feature an interview with Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of GIVAUDAN, Sniffapalooza Magazine exclusive interview with Dr. Avery Gilbert; Olfaction expert and Scientist, interview with Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian , Interview with Jessica Dunne of Ellie and Ellie Nuit by perfumer Michel Roudnitska, a feature on Téo Cabanel at Henri Bendel, Michael Davis tells us why "Real Men Wear Roses, Interview with Cathy Gins of Aromawear, Bringing Sexy Back , Interview with Sarah Barton King of The Pink Room and a Halloween article by James Dotson titled Perfumes of the Dead and finally a beautiful poem, Love Among the Spices and Ralph Lauren's NOTORIOUS.
Sniffapalooza Magazine features the upcoming FALL BALL and in no particular order we visit Takashimaya, Bond No. 9, Bergdorf Goodman's, Henri Bendel, Aedes de Venustas, Lafco NY and much more. Each feature is full of information, perfumers, fragrances and interviews.
Each article is full of photographs, so scroll down, click away, have fun and welcome to this special issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine Fall Ball.
November 9, 2008
In this issue we feature the finale of the spectacular must read series titled Burning Down the House : The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited. Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz ‘Les Christophes’, Nobi Shioyo of S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances . The House continues to sizzle in this issue. We offer a warm welcome to Nathan Branch with his new article How Men Can Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Unisex Fragrance or "Gee, You Smell Terrific!", new release from CREED - ‘LES FLORALIES’ which debuts in December, new series debuts with Under the Radar: Cereus Pour Homme and Pour Femme and features an Exclusive Interview with Bill Rosenbaum, President, CB I Hate Perfume: Burning Leaves Autumnal Magic by Michael W. Davis, Pacifica Holiday Gifts Holiday 2008 Guide, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part One- BURN Candles, Saint Parfum Authentic Parfumeur and Amourelle Paris and NEC-scent-SARY Luxuries , we introduce MUSIsCent, the first perfumed Album from musician Laurent Assoulen.
Sniffapalooza Magazine also Interviews Kedra Hart of Opus Oils, a fascinating look into her life and fragrances. We share with you an upcoming event in New York City featuring Chandler Burr from the New York Times and we are extremely proud to debut a new fragrance from Parfums Mercedes exclusive at Lucky Scent. Cathy Gins of Aromawear shares holiday information and a great idea for perfumistas and Juvy Santos enchants us with her "Sniffapalooza-thon" of the Fall Ball. We finish this issue with a link to many wonderful photographs from the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball from photographer and friend Michael Friedlander.
If you missed the huge Sniffapalooza Magazine FALL BALL NEW YORK CITY issue, full of exclusive photographs, reviews, article and interviews; you can view it in it's entirety. Please note that we have gone to a new format/layout for your viewing pleasure so please click on each section to view full page and each article.