Incense Rosé
Andy Tauer
by Barbara M. W. vanBok
Incense Rosé opens on clear notes of citrus, peat, herbals and rose. The composition
quickly starts to round and become rich and there is a brilliant quality, that of a bright,
dazzling day without any humidity. The peat note lingers while the rose opens and
becomes more established. From the rose there is sweetness- a dewy sweetness-
but it is tempered by earth and never becomes syrupy. There is very much the feeling of
working around the last blooms of autumn, in a rose garden, as you are putting the
garden to bed under layers of peat and mulch.
When the frankincense emerges it is bitter/sweet, not quite smoky- more still the
actual drop of clear resin than the resin given up to smoke. It hits the nose a little
more forward as the rose gently begins to recede into the background, still giving off
its intoxicating scent. Here, into the heart, the clear notes from the opening morph
and begin to take on warmth. The initial roundness of the composition becomes drier,
but deeper also, and the peat note still springs above the composition reminding us of
earth and bright days in the garden.
Into the middle of the heart of the fragrance, the rose and incense level in pitch and while
the notes don’t completely meld as one, they are now closer in harmony and you begin
to see the true character of the perfume. The full heart of the fragrance sings a song of
the rose, but once again, she is the mature rose of autumn, not the young, innocent
bloom of early June. The fall sun warms her and her surroundings gently.
Into the dryout a note of an exotic spice emerges. I am reminded of the scent of
henna – a strong, ancient perfume said to be a favorite of Cleopatra- thus keeping
in rhythm with the earthy theme. The final dryout lends a lovely, clear note of
cedar and while there are other, fading bottom notes of incense, rose, patchouli
and myrrh, the over-all tone is one of dry, earthy-woodiness, clear cedar, and
pungently sweet henna.
On my skin, the heart of Incense Rosé becomes quite heady. I would describe
it as rich- opulent even- however it never wanders into the realm of lush or humid.
The dry earth is always there, grounding the sweeter elements and reminding us
of land warmed under a clear, open sky. The elementals of earth and air are
juxtaposed against each other, giving a sultry, denser presence to air and a
more exalted, luminous and lifted presence to earth. Here I can’t ignore the
definite nod to L’Air du Desert Marocain. They are perhaps sister fragrances
and, on me, each honor different aspects of air and earth: L’Air more to the
dune and deep desert, and Incense Rosé to the warm loam and garden.
Overall, I imagine Incense Rosé as a rich celebration of the last blooms of summer. A glance back at the beauty of a fading garden and a remembrance of all the good feelings that connecting with the earth provide. This fragrance is elegant without being pretentious. It has warmth and mature seduction. The rose brings a feeling of tenderness that flows in and out of the composition while the earthy notes remind us in a bitter/sweet way that the glow of summer’s warmth is only temporary. A gorgeous autumn and winter perfume for those craving the kiss of mellow summer’s embrace.
- Artisankey
Andy Tauer
Incense Extrême
by Barbara M. W. vanBok
Incense Extrême is a stark and ascetic fragrance. There is
nothing frivolous, overtly sweet or prettified here. It comes across
as fairly androgynous and calls on the ethereal archetypes of air
and fire, as well as the dry qualities inherent in earth and wood.
It opens on a bright and bitter note with herbs, iris, earth, frankincense
and an accord that strongly reminds me of old-fashioned lipstick- yet I
wouldn’t consider this a strictly feminine scent. The cedar bursts through
in a brusque but not unpleasant way. For a moment I am surrounded by
piñon and orris- smoke and skin- and it is a close-your-eyes-and-inhale-
because-it’s-so-heavenly moment. This is followed by snuffed candles and
hot wax and the cedar is a little stronger and almost sweet, but not quite.
Orris can often be a cool note, but this orris, paired with the cedarwood
is warm and dry and oh-so-smooth. These notes of dry cedar, warm orris,
and smooth skin stay for a very long time- well past the heart of the
fragrance. Into the final dryout there is a lot of warmth, yet it’s not the
raw heat usually associated with spiciness in fragrances. This heat has
more to do with frankincense, cedar and skin. There is no bite, only
smoothness. This incense is very “second-skin-like.” There is also something about this scent that is very personal. This is the type of fragrance that has the potential to meld into your skin and become one with your presence. I would wear this when I need to focus, when I want to feel unruffled, refined, pulled together and when I need a boost to be taken seriously, but don’t necessarily want to advertise that I’m “perfumed.”
While there is an austere, almost Spartan kind of character to Incense Extrême, it is hardly simple or plain. There is a delicate quality to this fragrance; a graceful work of filigree forged from heat and flame. It is a refined scent, studious even, with an undercurrent that says, “I am cultivated, unrelenting, unbending, serious, and sober. Wear me if you dare!” This fragrance isn’t necessarily trying to be likeable and that, in and of itself, makes for one very intriguing perfume.
“I arise like ethereal steel;
Wisps of smoke from
The snuffed out nubs of tapers.
A fragile silver skyscraper vessel
Carrying the hot melted liquid.
The dry air magnifies my beautiful austerity.
Unadorned, smooth and unembellished,
I am now sueded silk over the
bare shoulders of the faithful;
She lifts her lips and rouges them with the tube.
In her arms she carries the fragrant boughs to the altar
While her clean heels click on the stone floor.
All is hushed and somber.
There is no one waiting in the shadows,
No romance or talk of escape
And I am happy to sit in the semi lit solitude.
Later still, the sky has started to glow pale orange,
While the morning air promises a day
Dry and fragrant with wavy lines rising from baked earth.
I try, but I can’t remember a time when I wasn’t here.
I am all at once and forever:
I am Incense Extrême.”
- Artisankey
A kind and grateful nod goes out to Raphaella for giving me the
opportunity to sample Andy Tauer’s new fragrances. -
Barbara M. W. vanBok
Barbara M. W. vanBok is a long time member and moderator of the Perfume of Life,
where she goes by the name Artisankey. She is a life long lover of perfume and
perfumery, and a 16 year veteran of aromatherapy. She is a musician, graphic artist,
and dancer, and lives with her husband and two dogs in Bath, Maine.
Available in 2008 http://www.tauerperfumes.com/website/
Crayon
Demeter Fragrance Review
By Juvy Santos
There is nothing quite like the remembrance of childhood pleasures, nothing nearly
so quaintly powerful as that memory of grandma's lap, or tea parties with little sisters.
I remember when the jiggle of Jell-O was new (lemon-lime! and with whipped cream!),
when September meant glue sticks on school-supply lists, and naptimes in class
were not only allowed--they were required. And oh, how I remember the crayons!
Every year, I prevailed on my mother to get me the 64-crayon pack. Remember those?
A rectangle of wonder, complete with its own crayon sharpener in the back--and with a
gold crayon inside.
I'd take my time opening that baby up, making sure to carefully perforate so that the
hinged lid would stay 'nice,' and then admiring those rows upon rows of fresh crayons,
the cleanness of their edges, the pointyness of their tips! And that unmistakable smell
of crayon, waxy and slightly industrial, instantly recognizable. These days, they come
in all imaginable variations--washable, giant, scented, twisted, blah...blah...blah.
I found myself at the corner drug store the other day holding a box of 96 crayons. Yes.
Ninety-six. Kids today can have NINETY-SIX CRAYONS, with a built-in sharpener AND
the classic hinged lid. As far as I was concerned, it was a bigger box of crayons for a
bigger girl. The Cadillac of Crayon Boxes, and all for around $6. I snapped it up.
I sniffed it. It made me happy.
Is it any surprise, then, that I greeted the arrival of Demeter's Crayon with a little scream of excitement? Demeter's given me more joy by the ounce than any other fragrance house out there. I mean, Serge Lutens is dramatic and poetic and all, but sometimes all I want is simplicity, you know? And no one does simple joy better than Demeter...they're a bit like the perfume equivalent of the smiley face.
Surprisingly enough, Crayon starts off with a fruity, citrusy accord...which quickly gives way to that waxy small I associate with crayon. It's like having a fruit salad right next to your 96-crayon box. It's not strictly crayon, by any means--it is Crayon Pretending to be Perfume.
Crayon-plus, if you will. The fruit aspects make the wax more approachable to those who want a scent to be more wearable than novel. Like other Demeter scents, though, it doesn't develop much more than that. If truth be told, though, I'm not complaining. I'll wear it, smell the wax, and smile.
Reviews Page 3
A Gentlemen’s Guide to Fall Fragrances
By Lucian Chanceux
As the final reminisce of natures long and glorious summer days, slowly fade into the golden vermilion hue of the autumns leafs, we bid farewell to those light crisp spring scents, thus exchanging them for the warm embrace of sensual woods and oriental spices. While the average Joe might be perfectly content to wear his trusty CK One all year round, those of us with a more discernable pallet for luxury fragrances will be looking to usher in the change of season with scents that are more akin to weather outside. In this, the question remains, with so many fine gentlemen’s fragrances out on the market to choose from, which ones are true and worthwhile head turners? To answer this, I have chosen five men fragrances; each one is uniquely irresistible and offers the gentlemen who are a connoisseur’s of perfumes something new to wear with this fall.
Tom Ford- Bois Rouge- Leave it to designer Tom Ford to create a fragrance line so
luxurious and original that it really has no competition except itself. Bois Rouge is
one of thirteen new scents from Tom Ford’s private blend collection. This is the
sexiest men’s scent out on the market. Whether you’re looking to attract a mate
or simply want to smell divine, Bois Rouge will answer all your fragrance prayers.
The top notes open with a woody oriental citrus spice, while the heart notes delicately
become warm, with cedar wood, patchouli, jasmine, and mugeut. The endnotes are
an exotic blend of sandalwood, vetiver, amber, refined leather, complimented with
vanilla and Tonka. The silage of Bois Rouge is in a class by itself, and offers it
wearer a depth that seems almost everlasting.
Available in either a 50ML / 1.7 spray, or a beautifully ornate decanter
250ML / 8.3 OZ Sold at Tom Ford Men’s Store 845 Madison Avenue in
This fall many of the top fragrance houses are turning up the heat or at least the intensity. Issey Miyake 'L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme Intense ' Eau de Toilette, is the newest scent from the eccentric Japanese designer created in collaboration with Beauté Prestige. This one is perfect to wear right after a hot shave, suitable for daytime or at the office.
The top notes of citrus, mandarin, spicy nutmeg, and wood are rich and
vibrant. The heart notes of yuzu, saffron and ambergris are masculine,
yet subtle in composition, paired against the endnotes of bergamot and
cardamond. Intense definitely lives up to its name.
Available in a 2.5 oz or 4.5 oz spray. Sold at Issey Miyake Boutiques,
Sephora, and Nordstrom’s department stores. www.isseymiyake.com
When one hears the name Aqua di Parma, one immediately
associates that name with refinement, class and sophistication.
The same can be said for the new Aqua di Parma Colonia
Intensa Eau de Cologne. The first eau de cologne created
purely for men, Intensa offers the modern gentleman a taste
of tradition without coming across like your grandfathers
aftershave. The top notes begin with Calabrian bergamot
paired against Sicilian lemon, then enriched with sensual
essence of cardamom topped with ginger. The heart notes
are an aromatic blend of fine myrtle and mugwort, with a hint
of neroli. The one and only base note is leather, which for an
Italian perfume maker is perhaps nod to that which keeps
Italy at the top of its game. This scent can be worn day or
night. It comes in the classic Aqua di Parma bottle
available in 1.69oz or 3.8 oz spray. Purchase at
What happens when you give the world’s finest noses carte blanche creative authority?
Well, the result is utterly enchanting, and this is exactly what the French perfume
designer Frederic Malle envisioned with his line of custom ready to wear fragrances
Editions de Parfums. Malle recruited the best perfumers from all around the world
to contribute to this unique endeavor. Among them is Dominique Ropion, the IFF
(International Fragrance and Flavors) master perfumer who has created a long and
impressive list of fragrances. His best contribution to the Editions de Parfums is
Vétiver Extraordinaire. Vetiver in and of its self is a sent that can claim its rightful
place among the cherished essential ingredients of fine perfumes. Worn by kings
and queens alike its fresh pungent smell is timeless and classic.
Vétiver Extraordinaire is the cream de le crème of vetivers, with the highest consecration of any vetiver on the market. The top notes awaken your senses with a refreshing splash of bigrade orange, pink pepper, bergamot and nutmeg. The heart notes are floralozone (a "fresh air" note), Haitian vetyver, sandalwood, cedar wood, and oak moss evoking the sprit of the woods in northern France. The base notes are myrrh, cashmeran, amber, musketone and tonalide (synthetic musk) producing a strong masculine sensibility. If you like vétiver then you will absolutely love Vétiver Extraordinaire. I recommend wearing this one out on the golf course or outdoors as it is a dominant and acquired taste in fragrance. Comes in a 1.7 oz bottle spray. Available exclusively at Barneys New York www.barneys.com or to view the entire line www.editionsdeparfums.com
Rounding off our guide to Gentlemen’s fragrances is the latest scent from Japanese fashion designer Takada Kenzo, aptly named Tokyo. This fragrance is at once charismatic and electrifying, with top notes including essence of ginger, lemon, grapefruit, essence of pink pepper, and bitter orange accord. The heart notes are essence of shiso (a Japanese spice), maté absolute, and green tea accord. The endnotes are essence of guaiac wood, warm cedar, essence of clove and nutmeg. I adore the endnotes in this fragrance; it has the woody charm appealing to both young men and gentlemen alike. Perfect to wear out on date night.
Tokyo comes in an ultra sleek modern looking black 1.7 or 3.4 oz Eau de Toilette Spray bottle. Sold exclusively at Sephora. www.sephora.com
Lucian Chanceux is a fragrance designer from London England
who has a deep and unyielding affection for perfume. He plans on
opening a U.S. flagship store in Manhattan in the spring of 2008.
Parfumerie Chanceux creates custom scents from any memory
you can recall. These one of kind scents are both personal and
unique. Each scent is created using only absolute and organic
ingredients, without chemicals or alcohol. He is a student of classic
French perfume making and now resides in New York City.
Guerlain Spiriteuse Double Vanille
by Kathy Patterson
Notes: vanilla, spices, benzoin, frankincense, cedar, pink pepper,
bergamot, Bulgarian rose, ylang ylang
I’m a vanilla girl. Not personality-wise -- there I would be more pistachio. What I mean is that I love vanilla scents. The rich, overtly-vanilla ones, decadent and gourmand, as well as oriental or floral fragrances that have a warm vanillaic base. My husband likes them too, which makes me more inclined to wear them. So imagine my dismay when he proclaimed, after sniffing a ribbon spritzed with Guerlain’s new vanilla-based fragrance, Spiriteuse Double Vanille, “it smells like Play-Doh.” I had been looking forward to experiencing this new perfume more than any other during the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball. I snatched the ribbon from his hand, for I had let him smell it first, and had my turn. It didn’t smell of much at all. I was crestfallen. But somewhere at the back of my mind, I was relieved that I would not be forking over $200 to the fabulous Guerlain rep.
Wanting to give it another shot, on skin, I raced out of Bergdorf’s cramped café straight to the Guerlain counter. Miraculously, I was the first to arrive, proclaiming, somewhat breathlessly, “I need to smell the Vanilla.” I was promptly spritzed. I closed my eyes, sniffed deeply, and my wallet instantly felt lighter. I waved my arm in front of my husband, who spent an uncharacteristically long time inhaling the fragrance. “Mmmm, spicy. I like it.”
Play-Doh was nowhere to be smelled. I would suggest foregoing the ribbon tester for a strip
of paper, or, better yet, some nice warm skin. Although vanilla is there from the start, cedar is the most prominent opening note, woody and aromatic. It is tinged with the subtly sharp spice of pink peppercorns and a whiff of other sweeter spice notes. As the scent dries down, the vanilla becomes more pronounced, rich and deep, but somehow gentle. As the vanilla takes center stage, a rich, resiny incense forms the backdrop. The rose is barely perceptible, and the ylang doesn’t speak to me at all. All of the notes combined create a fragrance that is somewhat reminiscent of tobacco. It’s honeyed, but not overly sweet. Eventually, the vanilla takes over almost completely, with tiny traces of the incense and cedar in the depths.
I told the nice Guerlain reps that I would have to think about investing in the fragrance and would probably be back. Fifteen minutes later, my husband was toting that little rectangular shopping bag….
Hermes Kelly Calèche
by Kathy Patterson
Notes: grapefruit, cassis, pepper, rose, iris, leather, cedar, labdanum
I had all sorts of issues with Hermes latest release. If it is a brand-new scent, supposedly a new combination of floral and leather notes, why not give it a brand new moniker? Instead, Hermes combines the name of its classic Calèche fragrance with that of their iconic handbag, once carried by Grace Kelly. “Kelly Calèche” doesn’t exactly trip off the tongue. It’s an odd marriage of Irish and French, of leather goods and carriages. (A combination that might lead one to think of horses, perhaps a leather scent with an animalic note? But…no.) In fact, Kelly Calèche is quite an appropriate name for this latest Jean Claude Ellena creation – a pastiche for a scent that itself is a mélange.
Kelly Calèche opens with a jolt of woodsy grapefruit reminiscent of Un Jardin Sur le Nil. It subsides pretty quickly and allows a blend of rose sprinkled generously with pepper to come forward. Then there’s the leather – a very soft, very expensive kid leather. According to the Hermes rep at Bergdorf Goodman, the leather note in this scent is not the typical Isobutyl Quinoline or Suederol but a blend of floral notes centered around iris that produce a sort of leather accord. Pretty amazing how that works, huh? How a combination of notes can more than the sum of its parts? But I digress.
As Kelly Calèche begins to dry down, it again becomes similar to other Ellena scents. It’s almost as if the perfumer had vials of several of his creations at his fingertips and decided to mix them to see what would happen. A pinch of Rose Ikebana and a dash of Osmanthe Yunnan and poof! Kelly Calèche. It’s a completely lovely floral with a strong citrus component and a leathery iris. Deeper into the drydown, the leather becomes more pronounced and the grapefruit’s brightness is much less sharp. The scent on my skin after several hours is really quite wonderful.
If I had never smelled any other of Ellena’s scents for Hermes, I would have had a more positive reaction (well, except for the name…). It’s just not…different enough for me. But it may be the perfect scent for those who like Hermes’ other fragrances, but not all aspects of them. Or who wish Osmanthe Yunnan was stronger (like me) or that the citrus in the other scents mentioned was lighter. Or that one or all of them had a bit of a tomboy-ish edge with the addition of leather. Or, best of all, something that smells like those other perfumes but is far more reasonably priced.
Kathy Patterson has had an interest in fragrance all her life. Some of her fondest
memories involve digging through her mother's toiletries and playing with her
scented soaps. (She hated Mom's Youth Dew though.) At the ripe age of 40,
Kathy discovered niche scents and Sniffapalooza. Now she's getting out of
hand with the perfume collection, and her husband Neal thinks she's maybe
a little crazy. Kathy is a jewelry designer/graphic artist/research analyst who
lives in Baltimore, MD with her loving hubby and two cats. You can find her
all over the place as theminx, including her site, http://theminx.com.
Histoires de Parfums Parfums d’Auteurs
by Kathy Patterson
From the Histoires de Parfums site:
“Each Eau de Parfum is a voyage back in time to the origin of traditional fine French perfume making. In homage to the Master Perfumers of the 19th century, we use the finest ingredients and intricate formulations for our five original prestige Eaux de Parfums. And each one has a story behind its composition. You'll notice that we have given our Eaux de Parfums numbers rather than names. Each number is a date that corresponds with the birth year of a notable historic figure. Each perfume is named for someone who has shaped the world with their endeavors. We like to think we've captured and bottled their romantic essence. Inspired by adventures and vital personalities of the past and created to be worn by their modern counterparts our Eaux de Parfums are...memory etched in scent.”
There’s no doubt that Histoires de Parfums uses fine ingredients and intricate formulations – one sniff is all one needs to detect the high quality of this line. And their gimmick of naming their fragrances is pretty clever – if only the scents matched the personalities. At least, they don’t in my mind. But that’s certainly not a crime, and this line is certainly worth exploring.
1804 – George Sand
Notes: apricot, Corsican peach, Hawaiïan pineapple, banana, clove, nutmeg. Indian jasmine, French lily of the Valley, Moroccan rose, lilac, sandalwood, patchouli, benzoin, vanilla, white musk
The convention-defying female author George Sand was the inspiration for this scent. Her propensity to dress in masculine guise in order to guarantee that her work would be taken seriously would seem reason to fill this fragrance with more masculine notes like rich tobaccos or leather. But no, Histoires de Parfums George Sand is a fruity floral of the highest order. Let me assure you, however, that this is not one of those insipid department store scents marketed to the under-25 crowd. Feminine, but not girly, there’s no mistaking the opening note of tangy pineapple; paired with the peach and apricot it gives the aura of an even more exotic fruit, the guava. Under this tropical umbrella lurks a very powdery rose and sandalwood combination accented with faint spices and sweetened with vanilla. It’s almost as if a traditional, somewhat old-fashioned rose perfume decided to take an island vacation and came back festooned in flora evoking the trip.
A shame Gauguin did not have a daughter by his Tahitian mistress Tehura, for that woman would be the right mix of French sensibility and tropical romanticism to have been represented by this scent.
1826 – Eugenie de Montijo
Notes: Corsican peach, strawberry, Tahitian coconut, white flower bouquet, orange blossom, Egyptian jasmine, Bulgarian rose, incense, vanilla, cacao, benzoin, patchouli, cedar, sandalwood
Eugenie de Montijo was the wife of Napoleon III and the last Empress of France. Encouraged by couturier Charles Worth, her fashion-forward style influenced European fashion trends.
Her namesake scent is a fruity chypre. It’s one of those scents that is so well-blended, few ingredients really jump forward and speak for themselves. The opening is an elegant sueded peach note that is rich and deep, slightly musty, very much Mitsouko-esque. There is also the barest essence of sweet strawberry, with an underlying blanket of smooth white florals. As the fragrance dries, the rose comes forth and the peach dies out, while a sweet creaminess coats the balsamic woodsiness of the base notes. And then…it’s mostly gone except for a floral sweetness. For a fragrance that comes on so strong at first, the relatively quiet drydown is quite a transformation.
Eugenie de Montijo is, antithetically, not at all trendy, but a lovely perfume in a very classic mode.
1876 -- Mata Hari
Notes: French cassis, peach, black pepper, ivy, Moroccan rose,
broom, Indian jasmine, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, musk
The infamous Mata Hari was a Dutch exotic dancer and
courtesan who worked as a spy for Germany during World
War I. She was a promiscuous femme fatale, so her
namesake fragrance should be deeply sultry, perhaps
even a tad raunchy. Ah, but it’s another fruity floral,
starting out with a sweet cassis note, and a nice
fresh juicy peach. The ivy adds a touch of green before
the heady floral bouquet comes on strong with lots of
jasmine and rose. The basenotes, apart from a bit of
musk, do not assert themselves in any way as individuals
and serve merely to give a sturdy base to the loud flowers.
While certainly not bland, Mata Hari is merely a pretty
scent that gives no hint of wantonness, nothing that
will get the blood running or fan the flames of desire.
Robert Piguet Parfums Fracas
celebrates 60th anniversary this year
There seems to be a recurrent theme in my fragrance life that sometimes
I may have not understood or given justice to certain classics.
I never wore Fracas, maybe because it reminded me of my mother.
After falling head over heels with Tuberose notes all last summer,
I set out (feverishly) to collect every tuberose fragrance in sight.
It is a wonder, certainly, that I have fallen in love with Fracas.
In my search, Fracas seemed to suit my skin with a
luxurious creamy white floral quality that is completely different from
Serge Lutens Tuberose Criminelle. Both are absolutely stunning but
Fracas won hands down when my husband, (in a very studious manner)
sniffed my shoulders and neck, he declared it the winner.
He is still dizzy with tuberose overdose.
The associations with the "Mother" image is long gone now,
replaced with a heady spring and summer fragrance, reminiscent of seduction and glamour of an incredible past.
No two tuberose fragrances are created equal so be sure to search out samples. One truly has to "open the mind and heart" when understanding and choosing a tuberose fragrance. -Rapahella
Robert Piguet Parfums is celebrating the 60th anniversary of Fracas, Robert Piguet's star fragrance, all throughout 2008. New product
introductions and special offers will be launched and announced in the upcoming months.
Fracas by perfumer Germaine Cellier "Classic femininity and modern sensibility collide within this lush white floral fragrance. Seductive tuberose mingles with jasmine, jonquil, gardenia, Bulgarian rose and orange flower in a profusion of fragile white flowers before revealing a base of sandalwood, vetiver and musk. Fracas is the signature fragrance for those who want to make an unforgettable impression."
Robert Piguet Parfums also reissued two fragrances from the designer's archives in 2007. With the addition of Cravache and Visa de Robert Piguet, perfume lovers are now presented with a full collection consisting of five fragrances from Robert Piguet-Fracas, Bandit, Baghari, Cravache and Visa present a tailored library of compositions ranging from floral and spicy to fresh and woody.
Looking forward into 2008, Robert Piguet Parfums is proud to unveil some special initiatives starting with the launch of our newly-designed and shop-able website. Please visit the new website at www.robertpiguetparfums.com
Special thanks to Nanci DiGiaimo and Joseph Garces , President of Robert Piguet Parfums, photo courtesy of Robert Piguet Parfums.
Ulrich Lang Anvers 2
Review
By Mark David Boberick
Ulrich Lang, a former L’Oreal executive and New York
art publisher recently launched Anvers 2, his second
fragrance for men this past Spring. The inspiration for the
scent came from a photograph of Belgian art dealer
Roger Szmulewicz by Katy Grannan. Roger has become
“the face of Anvers” and is featured on the packaging.
The idea of using art as inspiration is nothing groundbreaking
in the world of perfumery. Ulrich Lang, however, brings
this idea into deliciously modern territory by using photography
instead of more traditional art forms such as literature or painting.
The scent opens with a burst of Lemon and Lime and
quickly evolves to feature rhubarb, a most welcome top
note, especially in what seems like the year of violet leaves.
The Rhubarb is a delicious touch to the zesty, invigorating
opening. The cypress and the black pepper keep the opening
in a neutral territory – neither warm nor cool – but it also
keeps the scent from smelling “squeaky clean.”
We eventually get to the heart of the fragrance where sensual cedar and smoky sandalwood emerge paired with delicate Bulgarian rose. There is an interplay of other florals here, none of which are overpowering or even highly discernable. It is a well blended mix of jasmine, lily, and mimosa - flowers which can send some running, but here they are rendered in an extremely androgynous fashion giving this scent a definite unisex feel. While it is considered a men’s fragrance, the many women who have smelled this on me have pried the sample vial from my hand and applied it to themselves. The drydown does not come quickly, which is just as well because the warm heart is where this fragrance truly shines. Contemplative and confident – the base reveals itself as a gorgeous blend of musk and vanilla.
Anvers 2 is a fantastic, extremely unisex scent with very decent lasting power. There are many perfumes out there that have design concepts that are much larger than the perfumes themselves. This is not one of them. Ulrich Lang’s forward thinking idea of photography as inspiration is a most welcome addition to the world of perfume marketing. The moral of the story is not forced upon the wearer, for it is up to the wearer to draw his own conclusions. Looking at the stunning photo of Roger, his dark attire, the autumn environment, the expression, the body language, the floor of fallen leaves – what does the wearer take away from all of this? The possibilites are endless.
Anvers 2 is available at Takashimaya and Aedes de Venustas in New York City.
VISA
Robert Piguet
Fragrance Review
by Mark David Boberick
This past year, Robert Piguet Parfums re-released 2 more of their classic fragrances from days gone by. One of them is VISA. Originally created in 1945 by famed perfumer Germaine Cellier, It has been re-interpreted, re-imagined, and yes, re-formulated by Givaudan’s own Aurelien Guichard. The scent is considered to be an Oriental Gourmand, and if the word Gourmand scares you, sit tight, we’ll get to that in a minute…
There are mixed feelings in the Perfume World (at least in the virtual one) regarding the re-issuing of classic, vintage fragrances. Re-Issuing inevitably means re-formulating because French Laws being what they are, many original ingredients are no longer available or even legal. I have never smelled the original VISA, so I have absolutely no point of reference with this fragrance, and that’s just as well.
I’ve been doing my research. I’ve been reading a lot of opinions on many different scents that have been re-released over the past few years. Often, people are terribly unhappy with the results. (Balmain Vent Vert stands out in my memory as getting a lot of negative comments from people so very familiar with the original) The surprising general consensus among this community seems to be that they would rather the perfume houses didn’t even bother to re-issue the fragrances at all because they hardly ever smell like they “should.”
Well, I proudly disagree.
When I smell VISA, I am not immediately transported to Post-War Paris. There is nothing about it that smells vintage to me. And why should there be? This isn’t Paris in 1945. And since 1945, I think its safe to say – the market has changed, a bit.
In 2007, over 800 fragrances were released. Did you smell them all? Well, did you? Of course you didn’t. Of the ones you did smell however, I think it is probably safe to say that none of them smelled “old.” Alright – there may have been one or two, but for the most part? Times have changed and tastes have shifted. It’s a big market to drop a new fragrance into and if you’re going to do it – it needs to be forward-thinking and current.
VISA is current but it is, I’m happy to say - not redundant. On my skin, VISA opened with radiantly ripe fruits and a luscious dose of violet. The fruits die down quickly to reveal a floral heart with a surprise of immortelle. Maybe I’m wrong, but I personally never consider fruit notes to be gourmand. Crazy, I know. So it’s not until the appearance of the immortelle that this fragrance hints at gourmand territory for me. The seductive base is loaded with satisfaction. Vetiver, sandalwood, vanilla, and benzoin keep it grounded. The highlight of this scent for me, is when the doughy immortelle starts to warm the leathery accord in the base.
VISA is the kind of scent you don’t mind smelling on your cashmere scarf or your leather gloves. Actually, you sort of hope the scent never leaves those items – it is always a welcomed accompaniment to any accessory.
The scent lasts quite well and has exquisite sillage – always there but no threat of asphyxiation. Robert Piguet’s trademarks of a “strict adherence to good taste, true luxury, a horror of the commonplace and an innate sense of seduction” have not been sacrificed. This scent is relevant and still manages to be unique. It is as exotic as it is comforting. VISA is at home on a body cloaked in sweats or sable.
Aurelien Guichard had a very difficult task ahead of him when he set out to transform a vintage classic into a modern classic. The good news is of course that, and this shouldn’t come as a big surprise to anyone, he is entirely capable. He has already given us the exquisite Chinatown and Andy Warhol's Silver Factory for Bond No. 9 as well as the Piguet re-issue of Baghari. He is a young perfumer with a modern vision that manages to honor the classic history of perfume as well as the future of it.
There is something luxurious in just knowing that you can reach for a bottle of fragrance that was once long lost and is now, once again available to us all. I shudder to think of how many incredible classics we have lost. So, even if re-issues manage to be ghosts of their former selves, (and I’m not implying that VISA is – remember, I’ve never smelled it) I still am fortunate that we can say we have them back with us.
Welcome back, VISA.
Perfumer Aurélien Guichard at the recent Sniffapalooza Fall Ball in New York City
VISA is available in eau de parfum and extrait formulations and can be purchased at Bergdorf Goodman or online at the gorgeous new Robert Piguet website: www.robertpiguetparfums.com
Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses
By Tamara Root
"... the Parisian orgy is a source of pleasure... Bodies slick with sweat, hot with the odours of sexual favours bestowed and received during the night. In line with the 18th-century libertine tradition, these [two] fragrances symbolize transgression, the pleasures of the flesh and defiance of prohibitions and conventions."
With that description if the juice is half-way decent, I am sold! In this case, the juice is more than half-way decent. When I met Kilian Henessy of by Kilian perfumes I was charmed by his looks and impressed by his humility. This former marketing executive of L'Oreal is an heir to the Henessy cognac family and a delightful Frenchman at that. (One sentence pronounced with a heavy French accent and I am intrigued beyond belief and a little hot and bothered.)
I was more than happy to sample these new, mysterious offerings in gorgeous black bottles at Bergdorf Goodman the morning of October 20th. And I found one to take home with me.
Liaisons Dangereuses is an interesting mingling of notes, one for
fragrance aficionados since it is not obviously appealing. Rather,
this fragrance offers mystery and elicits statements such as "What
is that fantastic smell?" I have seen descriptions vary, from one in
this month's Allure magazine describing it as plum over oakmoss
to this web page that suggests geranium over cinnamon. From
what I recall when I tested it, I was moved by heavy fruitiness over
just a touch of woods. As I wear this at home (which is usually a
more accurate impression), the fragrance begins smelling just
slightly of mint to my nose. The mint is mixed with fruit, like a
refreshing and uplifting herbal tea. After a full five minutes of the
minty-fruity accord, the fragrance dries and it becomes much
deeper and slightly animalic, something I would expect from a
fragrance meant to evoke the libertine 18th-Century. Plum over
oakmoss is not a bad description at all. And yet this fragrance is
so much more than that. The geranium slowly enters the olfactory
symphony during the heart stage of this fragrance and it dominates
the delicately spicy, sweet cinnamon making it almost undetectable.
Finally, earthy sandalwood and sensual musk round out the base, amping up the sex appeal to full tilt.
Freedom of sexual expression exemplifies libertine 18th-Century Europe. "If it feels good, do it" sparked a movement that bucked all laws, religions, morals and constraints. Simply no regard for social norms or "good" behavior counter-balanced the religious movements that had previously dominated politics and social behavior. Although libertines could not achieve anything politically due to their radical nature, they certainly brought forth some delicious entertainment. I applaud any fragrance designed to highlight this period of history, the age of one of my favorite painters Caravaggio, the intriguing poet Giambattista Marino and the Casanova, Giovanni Giacomo.
The most impressive facet of the entire By Kilian collection is its packaging. As Mr. Henessy expressed, your personal fragrance is your weapon as you go throughout the day. Thus, each bottle contains an ornate shield design. The gorgeous black bottle fits snugly inside a satin lined black lacquer box which can be locked with a small key that dangles from black tassel. Just superb.
By Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses and the entire L'Oeuvre Noire collection are available at Bergdorf Goodman. The refillable bottle sells for $225. Casanova image courtesy of Britannica.com
Tamara Root is a conscientious healthcare worker by day and a serious fragrance aficionado by night. She longs to share her fragrance passions in a positive and uplifting manner. Interests include travel, yoga and fashion.
Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes
Kathy Patterson
The appreciation of Annick Goutal fragrances has been a long time in
coming for me. I'd often spritz a random bottle on a trip around the
perfume counter at Nordie's and come away completely unimpressed.
Then I met Petite Cherie and fell in love. Soon after, I bought a big bottle of Passion and a bottle of Eau d'Hadrien. Grand Amour occasionally whispers, "buy me," but so far I have not succumbed to the siren song of Goutal again. Until now.
In late 2007, Annick Goutal released a set of three fragrances called
"Les Orientalistes" which are quite different from their familiar collection
of floral- and citrus- based scents. They are richer, darker, and warmer
fragrances that are just the kind of thing that floats my boat, so I had to
get my hands on some samples. Oh, my pocketbook! I fear I need to
own all three of these beauties!
Ambre Fetiche: amber, frankincense, labdanum, benzoin, styrax,
leather, vanilla, iris.
A rich dry amber underlined with a smoky frankincense that has a quality
almost like burning rubber. The rubbery impression fades after a few
minutes and is replaced with a sweetish resinous note. This scent
comes on strong at first application and is borderline unpleasant, but
this is one of those cases when the drydown is most certainly worth
the wait. Ambre Fetiche is stunning, and I couldn't stop sniffing my wrist all evening.
Myrrh Ardente: myrrh, benzoin, vanilla, tonka, gaiac wood, beeswax
Considering that there are so many potentially sweet notes in this fragrance, it is dry and warm. I do smell the vanilla and tonka far more than the myrrh itself, yet there is no sweetness. A faint burnt rubber note that may be the beeswax ties this composition to that of Ambre Fetiche, but it is a little more tenacious. Myrrh Ardente is somehow both rich and light, grounding and ethereal. A good fragrance for contemplative times.
Encens Flamboyant: incense, pepper, rose, cardamom, nutmeg, woods
THIS is the fragrance that should be called Messe de Minuit, as it reminds me of the many Midnight Masses I attended in my Catholic youth. Encens Flamboyant is anything but flamboyant; it is subtle, a cozy and soothing scent redolent of church incense, candles, and fresh evergreen trees. It's a familiar smell of my childhood, of a time I will never recapture but that lives on in my heart.
Fabulous Discount "Finds" in Fragrance
Carla Fracci & Giselle
by Raphaella
Recently, a fragrant friend told me about a gorgeous white floral fragrance that she adores, my ears picked up because it seems I collect every white floral ever made, so of course, I was very intrigued.
I do not pay any attention to the discount fragrance outlets; either at the mall or the many on-line discount fragrance sites. After joining Sniffapalooza, there is no going back to ‘celebrity’ or highly commercial fragrances for me. The door had opened and one can never go back.
After reading some fragrance boards though, I realized that there are many fans of the "discount" fragrance companies and there deals are to be made. I am always reading how my friends buy great fragrances such as Christen Lacroix Tumulte (Homme and Femme are big hits) at Marshals, TJ Max, Ross, as well as the many numerous on-line discount fragrant houses. These friends also seem to discover a discount fragrance that I would normally never consider purchasing much less wearing.
I then found two fragrances that I fell for and both stole my heart. It made me want to devote a section every month to some fabulous little fragrance that has fallen by the way-side to discount houses, little finds, if you will, finds I would normally turn my little nose up to.
So we start this issue with Carla Fracci and Giselle from the Carla Fracci House of Italy. Finding the notes of these are almost impossible, the company no longer exists, the phone number from Michael Edward's book, no one ever answers, I find this all very intriguing.
I searched for hours on the internet looking for the notes for Giselle and Carla Fracci to no avail. I would have to purchase the Michael Edwards on-line tutorial for a few hundred dollars to get these notes, I imagine. These fragrances are also sold at Macy’s and Nordstrom’s, possibly Dillard’s. A search on-line produced numerous discount sites, not one had any notes listed. This absolutely drives me crazy.
Milan born Carla Fracci is a one of the world’s greatest ballerina's. She appeared with the London Festival Ballet, the Royal Ballet, Stuttgart Ballet, Royal Swedish Ballet, and was principal guest artist of the American Ballet Theatre.
Carla Fracci is renowned for her interpretation of the romantic roles and Giselle was her greatest success; she danced it with many great partners like with Nijinsky, Rudolf Nureyev, Mikhail Baryshnikov and Erik Bruhn. Her unforgettable Giselle with Bruhn was filmed and is available on DVD. She is now director of Balletto dell'Opera di Roma.
Giselle, the fragrance, (of notes unknown for now) is warm, spicy, feminine with luscious notes, creamy and sexy, I am sure it has ylang-ylang. It is simply beautiful. It is a cross between Annick Goutal Songes and Miller Harris Fleur Oriental. The drydown is simply beautiful. Carla Fracci, her other fragrance, is a brilliant white floral of tuberose and ylang-ylang, very, very pretty, not cloying or sweet, I actually visualized yellow sunshine when this hit my skin, and it is simply gorgeous. It is white and yellow, all at once, singing of summer days and nights, a flirtatious fragrance but not too young or coy. The sandalwood is what seams it all together and keeps it from being too sweet. The sillage is wonderful on both of these fragrances.
Dora Truong spoke of Carla Fracci: “The search for Ylang was fulfilled with this gorgeous white flower scent. The notes list passion fruit, tuberose and Ylang on top with a heart of freesia, jasmine and just a bit of lily. The bottom is musk that I hardly notice with heliotrope, sandalwood and vanilla. The release was in '03 and this could be the end of the line. I plan to buy another bottle because this was one I truly loved.” -Dora
The bottles of both fragrances evoke the tall and graceful lines of ballet dancers and both fragrances are just as fluid, a dreamy Pas de Deux, melding into one's body. The fragrances take position just as a ballerina would and floats about the dreamy center stage as she is carried by her partner, she promenades, is lifted and turns. Two fragrances befitting a glamorous Italian Prima Ballerina.
I just picked Carla Fracci up for roughly $55.00. Surprisingly, these also come in EDP strength and I will seek those out as well. Yes, I am a woman who goes from expensive Creeds, Guerlain’s, Caron’s, Lutens', Frédéric Malle's and Amourage Jubilation 25, to my newly beloved, discovered discount perfumes.
There you have it. Two beautiful discount fragrances. A little smile forms on my lips, secretly knowing, my little discount "find" smells deliciously oh-so expensive. I smell great success.
Caution: Only purchase Creed and other high end fragrances at authorized dealers. According to a thread on Basenotes, there are some discount fragrance sites and ebay sellers that are selling FAKES. Make sure you purchase from outlets such as Bergdorf Goodman, Les Senturs, Aedes, Parfums Raffy, Sak's and authorized dealers! I prefer shopping at an authorized dealer because it is truly hassle free.