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October 18, 2008
Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City
In this huge and special issue we continue to feature the spectacular must-see series titled Burning Down the House : The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited with The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, talk to Sniffapalooza Magazine. The House sizzles in this issue.
We feature an interview with Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of GIVAUDAN, Sniffapalooza Magazine exclusive interview with Dr. Avery Gilbert; Olfaction expert and Scientist, interview with Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian , Interview with Jessica Dunne of Ellie and Ellie Nuit by perfumer Michel Roudnitska, a feature on Téo Cabanel at Henri Bendel, Michael Davis tells us why "Real Men Wear Roses and we feature a review of the new Creed Love In Black.
We feature an Interview with Cathy Gins of Aromawear, Interview with Sarah Barton King of The Pink Room, a Halloween article by James Dotson titled Perfumes of the Dead,
Bringing Sexy Back, and finally a beautiful poem, Love Among the Spices and Ralph Lauren's NOTORIOUS.
Sniffapalooza Magazine features the upcoming FALL BALL and in no particular order we visit Takashimaya, Bond No. 9, Bergdorf Goodman's, Henri Bendel, Aedes de Venustas, Lafco NY and much more. Each feature is full of information, perfumers, fragrances, photographs and exclusive interviews so enjoy our biggest issue yet!
In the 18th century, in Parma, Italia, there was fine printer and typographer named Giambattista Bodoni -- his work was called by many of his time and since, as the exemplar of sophistication in design. Beautiful books, exquisite typefaces, amazing sense of airiness and restraint. The type of our masthead is custom designed and hand-drawn by Tim Girvin and his team in NYC | Seattle, creating a perfection on the classics from centuries past, to a new revised and refined titling treatment -- just for us! Sniffapalooza Magazine Banner by Tim Girvin.
Sniffapalooza logo/banner: Bond No. 9 is a registered trademark of Laurice & Co. ©2008
Click banner to visit Girvin;
Art of Luxury
The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are
the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Sniffapalooza Magazine talks with Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé and Neil Morris,
In this extraordinary edition of “Burning Down the House”, an
unprecedented panel of fragrance game-changers share their personal perspectives and thought-provoking answers to the question:
“What are your feelings about the state of contemporary fragrance and how do you think the industry must evolve in order to stay relevant to an oversaturated market?”
Their words are uncut, unplugged, unedited. A must-see!
James Dotson. As soon as he could crawl, James dragged himself into the garden and began smelling the scented pelargoniums and purple bearded iris. He began precociously reading peculiar old herb books and attempted to prepare Hungary Water from rosemary. Since alchemy was not a contemporary career choice, he became a psychiatrist with a fondness for deeply strange things. His current interests include the neuropsychiatric aspects of olfaction, cross-disciplinary studies of smell, healing and magical perfumes, and all things odorous. James enjoys meeting fellow flaireurs and olfactophiles and feels they represent a superevolved form of humanity.
Victoria Austin is a passionate accomplished dreamer, hopeful romantic, spiritually attuned-grounded and musically diva-ish. She spent her childhood days dreaming, exploring the forest trails and gleaming streams. She now lives in a sprawling metropolis, but still a jewel of a city in north Texas and her wonderful family. She loves traveling and experiencing new places, people, cultures and foods. She also enjoys reading great books, writing, singing, acting and playing several musical instruments, cooking, decorating, beauty and fashion, music, movies, live theater, and learning foreign languages. She enjoys thought provoking discussions and communicating with interesting people. Her new hobby is collecting unique boutique and niche fragrances from Serge Lutens, L'Artisan and Andy Tauer to name a few. Victoria and her family also love working with Habitat for Humanity.
Kathy Patterson has had an interest in fragrance all her life. Some of her fondest memories involve digging through her mother's toiletries and playing with her scented soaps. (She hated Mom's Youth Dew though.) At the ripe age of 40, Kathy discovered niche scents and Sniffapalooza. Now she's getting out of hand with the perfume collection, and her husband Neal thinks she's maybe a little crazy. Kathy is a jewelry designer/graphic artist/research analyst who lives in Baltimore, MD with her loving hubby and two cats. You can find her all over the place as theminx,including her site, http://theminx.com.
by Raphaella Barkley
Perfumerof Givaudan talks with us about some of his creations...we also include a NEW review of Visa and Baghari by Robert Piguet at Bergdorf Goodman's by Christine Lewandowski and reviews of Bond No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory and Visa by Mark David Boberick.. plus links to other features for Aurélien Guichard.
by Raphaella Brescia Barkley
Olfaction expert and Scientist
appearing at Sniffapalooza Fall Ball
“What a nose opener! Page after page, he amazes;
Vanilla scented butterflies? "
“I loved it!” - Mandy Aftel
“You will never think of perfume (or Proust)
quite the same way” -Jack Turner
Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview Dr. Avery Gilbert, author of the outstanding
new book "What The Nose Knows". He talks to us about blogs, Sniffapalooza,
Givaudan, his amazing journey, the fascinating world of smell. Who knew that “composer Richard Wagner was a fragrance freak” or that “Emily Dickinson was a fragrance vampire who tortured the perfume out of flowers”?. We also offer a book review by Kathy Patterson.
Segen Scott talks with us all the new products at Lafco NY.
Cathy Gins has designed a unique collection of jewelry and accessories that integrates the power of essential oils and fragrances with elegant, modern and timeless jewelry design. Watch the video that shows her collection and how to add fragrance. You can meet Cathy at the Sniffapalooza
“Modernity is the transient, the fleeting, the
contingent; it is one half of art, the other being
the eternal and the immovable.”- Charles Baudelaire
Kilian Hennessy, Founder of By Kilian. Kilian Hennessy, the soft spoken and charming ’scentsation” behind the By Kilian fragrance brand, could easily have walked out of 19th century France, realized that PDAs and cell phones are extremely useful, and decided to stay awhile in the 21st century to shake things up....
Takashimaya is just one of New York City's favorite high end shopping destination and a favorite for niche and beautiful fragrances. Plus, just for Sniffapalooza, they make those fabulous cupcakes and tea for our visit.
Many fragarance lines are available here-too many to mention but they stock Carthusia Mediterraneo, Nasomatto, Panama-Boellis, Le Cherchi Midi, The Different Company, Il Profumo, Parfums DelRae, Diptyque, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Histoires de Parfums, 06130, the latest from Miller et Betaux, T. Takashimaya, Yosh, Neil Morris Fragrances, Septimanie Perfumes Pavillon des Fleurs, The Pink Room, Ineke, Montgomery Taylor's Ambra di Venezia, Ulrich Lang Anvers and Anvers 2 and Summerscent by Marjorie Midgarden Fragrances, just to a name a few. I am sure there will be many new lines to discover as soon as we walk in the door! I am hoping they still stock Keiko Mecheri but a stop at this fragarance department is just one of the highlights of our journey- below is just a small sampling of what the fragrance department of Takshimaya has in store for us...
Bergdorf Goodman's fragrance department is so huge that it would take me a year just to write down all the lines that they carry...Inside we feature just a few of some of the incredible fragrance lines- Bergdorf's is also famous for the incredible raffle that one lucky Sniffapalooza member will win-the goody bags are always generous and we all love Bergdorf Goodman for the beautiful fragrances they offer and the chance to meet all the fabulous representatives from so many lines-
Bergdorf's kicks off the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball frenzy with the wildly popular Breakfast at Berdorf's which is generously sponsored for us, See you at Bergdorf's!
Aedes de Venustas in New York City, is a place of breathtaking beauty.
Aedes de Venustas gracious proprietors, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner have been garnering world-wide recognition; deservedly so, among perfumista's and fragrance aficionados alike. They are official outlets for the House of Creed as well as Diptyque and numerous other lines. We also offer two new reviews of the NEW Andy Tauer Vetiver Dance, reviews of the new Aedes fragrance and a review of the beautiful Molinard Histoire de Chypre.
We only offer a small sampling here...for those whom are not attending this Fall Ball event, you can visit them at their extensive web site at Aedes, they have a wonderful sample program.
Téo Cabanel fragrances have rapidly become one of my favorite French lines-all four of these fragrances are gorgeous as well as unique. Alahine is smoky and sexy, patchouli and rose, Oha is a sensuous perfume filled with the finest rose, Julia is Bridget Bardot incarnated, sexy, fresh and joyful and Meloe is a juicy and fresh summer morning. You will also find our interview with Caroline Ilacqua of Téo Cabanel There will also be representatives there to answer any questions.
Henri Bendel is another place to shop for beautiful fragrances and lots of niche and cutting edge fragrances as well as many classics. A must-see!
Meet Janna Sheehan and Jessica Dunne
Creed Love In Black
"The latest Creed, Love in Black, definitely has mysterious undertones meant to evoke images of Jackie Kennedy. Love In Black is the most beguiling fragrance I think I have ever experienced and I do not say that lightly. This gentle, woody violet is, at first, a soft whisper in its understated presence and then it takes a surprisingly sensuous turn..." full review here
Mr. CREED, with his son, Erwin, presents a fragrance that evokes the unique élan of Mrs. Onassis: her dark, mysterious eyes behind black sunglasses, her wavelets of brunette hair, her trim shape in a black sheath...
Love Among the Spices
by Michael Ondaatje
Love Among the Spices
This poem was written by Michael Ondaatje. It was sent to me by Michael Davis, a 'friend in fragrance' from Atlanta. It is perhaps one of the most beautiful odes to love using our fifth sense as its lingua franca.
The Cinnamon Peeler
If I were a cinnamon peeler
I would ride your bed
and leave the yellow bark dust
on your pillow.
Your breasts and shoulders would reek
you could never walk through markets
without the profession of my fingers
floating over you.
The blind would
stumble certain of whom they approached
though you might bathe
under the rain gutters, monsoon.
Here on the upper thigh
at this smooth pasture
neighbour to your hair
or the crease
that cuts your back. This ankle.
You will be known among strangers
as the cinnamon peeler's wife.
I could hardly glance at you
never touch you
- your keen nosed mother, your rough brothers.
I buried my hands
in saffron, disguised them
over smoking tar,
helped the honey gatherers...
When we swam once
I touched you in the water
and our bodies remained free,
you could hold me and be blind of smell.
You climbed the bank and said
this is how you touch other women
the grass cutter's wife, the lime burner's daughter.
And you searched your arms
for the missing perfume
what good is it
to be the lime burner's daughter
left with no trace
as if not spoken to in the act of love
as if wounded without the pleasure of a scar.
your belly to my hands
in the dry air and said
I am the cinnamon
peeler's wife. Smell me.
-- Michael Ondaatje
Meet Jessica Dunne Saturday at Henri Bendel
available at Henri Bendel
We talk with the beautiful Jessica Dunne of Ellie D Perfumes and she tells us about her journey with master perfumer Michel ROUDNITSKA from Grassed and her new fragrance Ellie Nuit.
A fascinating read and look into the world of fragrance. You can also view the article from the New York Times and a fragrance review of Ellie.
Le Cherche Midi
Takashimaya and Bergdorf Goodman
Each of our fragrances has been carefully selected and
crafted with a unique blend of natural essences and oils.
Our hand poured candles use the highest grade wax
available and burn clean with all cotton wicks.
Each candle comes with a hand-crafted silk topper
that helps to seal in the fragrance until it is ready
for use and serves as a unique decorative piece.
The accompanying fragrance mists can be used to
scent the air, linens, or even your skin.
Each of our custom designed cube boxes, made to be reused,
are hand fashioned from 100% recycled wood and lined in pure,
Using colors as inspiration, Le Cherche Midi worked with the best
French fine fragrance perfumers to create a collection of unique,
complex fragrances for the home that share the same sophistication
and quality as luxury perfume. Le Cherche Midi created a palette of
over 20 colors that were submitted to our fine fragrance perfumers for
interpretation into home fragrance. Each of these colors served as
an inspiration for our perfumers. Our current fragrances were selected
from these submissions.
Christine Lewandowski is passionate about fragrance. She once suffered from migraines, which lead to her study of aromatherapy, Therapeutic Touch, reflexology, Spiritual Response Therapy and Johrei. As the former Director of Procurement Programs for the New Jersey Small Business Development Center at Rutgers Graduate School of Management (Newark, NJ), Christine compiled and edited the first Procurement Directory. Rutgers University Press published the Directory.
Christine is a graduate of the University of Virginia, former educator & member of Hillstreet Players in Ridgewood, NJ. Christine enjoys reading, writing and arranging customized travel. She is an active participant on basenotes, Perfume of Life and Sniffapalooza blogs/forums. Christine resides in New Jersey with her husband, daughter.& 16 year old cat. She takes road trips to Florida to visit her family when they aren’t visiting her.
Meet Sarah Barton King of
The Pink Room fame and
learn abouther cult-favorite
Sniffapalooza Magazine cult favorite, James Dotson takes us on a journey
of the fragrant spirit world...
"In the19th century, during the heyday of Spiritualism, seance circles were full of mysterious raps and more flamboyant ghostly communications. Among the most spectacular phenomenon were phantoms that temporarily assumed a solid form, or “materializations.” William Moses was an Oxford educated minister, and one of the most scholarly and well-respected mediums of the 1870’s. During his seance circles, pearls and precious stones appeared from thin air, columns of light hovered over the sitters, and ethereal concerts played on invisible instruments. But a more unusual feature of his mediumistic sessions, was the spontaneous oozing of scented oil from his head, or the mists of perfume from the ceiling including beautiful rains of verbena, hay, musk, sandalwood and roses. He described some of these phenomenon in his notebooks" ....
Ralph Lauren Notorious is a new perfume for women inspired by Hitchcock's classics and other Hollywood movies. This new perfume will arrive to the market in autumn 2008 and will celebrate the 10th anniversary of the best seller of the house of Romance. Like the great screenwriters and film directors of our time, Ralph Lauren is one of the world’s best storytellers. His fashion, lifestyle and fragrance brand is built upon captivating narratives of elegance, romance and understated glamour. He creates entire worlds with his cinematic eye and visionary imagination. Moved by the sexy, mysterious, self-possessed women from the golden age of film glamour, Ralph Lauren presents Notorious, a new fragrance of timeless intrigue and boundless desire.
Notorious is a fragrance which introduces the old Hollywood glamour. She is desirable and magnetic, audacious and voracious. Her enduring persona is as entrancing today as it was yesterday and is tomorrow. Ralph Lauren pays tribute to the Notorious Woman – the daring, dangerous, heart-stopping siren who leaves men speechless in her wake.
Her smoldering but subtle sexiness creates an air of intrigue and danger, as personified by Faye Dunaway in The Thomas Crown Affair and Chinatown, defined by Lauren Bacall in the film noir masterpiece The Big Sleep, and embodied by Ingrid Bergman in Alfred Hitchcock’s classic thriller Notorious. Intriguing, bold and confident, these Notorious Women have emboldened the passion and fascination of every era.
“The roles have made me famous, but my life has made me Notorious,” says Laetitia Casta, the French model and actress who stars as the sultry face of Notorious in a new advertising campaign by Michael Thompson that will debut in September 2008.
The perfume was created by perfumer Olivier Gillotin of Givaudan, a sparkling spiced oriental, to be as provocative and commanding as the woman who wears it. Chocolate Cosmos, a decadent, chocolate-scented burgundy flower, is used for the first time ever in Notorious. It evokes floral decadence in the mid-notes along with charismatic White Frost Peonies and Fiery Carnations. Deep Black Currant energizes the scent, sparkling with other top notes of Spicy Pink Peppercorn and Italian Bergamot. Anchored by the base note of Patchouli Musk, created from vintage Patchouli aged in oak barrels for five years, seductive Vanilla and Orris captivate.
Top Notes: Black Currant, Spicy Pink Peppercorn and Italian Bergamot, Mid Notes:Chocolate Cosmos, White Frost Peonies, Fiery Carnation, Base Notes:Patchouli Musk, Vanilla, Orris
Mark David Boberick is an Interior Designer who has been in love with scent for as long as he can remember and has been collecting fragrances since the age of 12. A lover of art and music, Mark David frequents museums, Theatre, and the Opera. He is also an accomplished theatrical set designer having already amassed a large portfolio of work for only being 23 years old. In 2006, Mark David established Atelier Mark David, his freelance design business based in Philadelphia. He is an avid supporter and volunteer for Greyhound Rescues and is happiest when he’s designing or sniffing.
Sniffapalooza Magazine contributors
Barbara M. W. vanBok is a long time member and moderator of the Perfume of Life, where she goes by the name Artisankey. She is a life long lover of perfume and perfumery, and a 16 year veteran of aromatherapy. She is a musician, graphic artist and dancer, and lives with her husband and two dogs in Bath, Maine.
Michael W. Davis is a writer and management consultant in Atlanta, Georgia. Michael has been collecting and testing fragrances for fifteen years, and is an active contributing member of Basenotes. Michael holds a B.S. in psychology, an M.S. in organizational behavior and focuses on behavior modification in corporate environments. Michael also studies the effects of fragrance from a social psychology perspective.
Real men define masculinity on their own personal
terms with little or no outside influence. They do not
need media personalities nor anyone else telling them what is masculine. I consider myself to be a real man in that I define my self-identity as a masculine male in my own terms....
All rights reserved 2006-2009. All content belongs to Sniffapalooza Magazine.
All articles by individual writers and contributors, understand and agree that each article that is accepted by the Editor for publication; becomes the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for the sole purpose of publication for Sniffapalooza Magazine. Articles may be archived for permanent use on the web site for Sniffapalooza Magazine and for future issues. All articles remain the property of Sniffapalooza Magazine for display purposes only.
Bringing Sexy Back
‘Sniffas’ are aficionados of fragrance. We sniff, spritz, analyze, and test fragrance with knowledge and experience. “Is that a chypre, hmmm, the oak moss really comes through”, or “I wonder if that is Haitian Vetiver or Javanese”.
Thanks to the transparency of many of our most beloved perfumers (by Kilian actually posts formulas on its website), Sniffapalooza workshops, bloggers , critics, and the world wide web our heads are crammed with professional words; top note, long tail, sillage, molecular chains, (and even words that marketing groups invent such as ‘ampur’). We know our extraits from our cologne; our amber from our ambergris (lovely hardened chunks of whale vomit). As a writer, some of my own articles are as chock a block of esoteric terminology as a chemistry thesis.
Cerebral yes, sexy… not one bit. Its time to bring sexy back.
Why do we wear fragrance? For most of us, it’s a sensory form of self-expression.
But if we cut through the clutter of jargon, and really examine the power of scent at its most elemental level, it’s all about pheromones that attract. Even the word sensual sounds like the word scent. Deep down, we want to be ‘sexy’.
Sexy is one of those words that immediately evoke visual or mental images; a particular physical appearance perhaps, or is it power, influence or intellect.
My take on sexy? Confidence… the ULTIMATE aphrodisiac. And there are two fragrances that I wear that are sexy as hell (for me), Osmanthus by Ormonde Jayne and X by Clive Christian. Wearing these particular fragrances turn me on, and if they can do that, they ‘turn on’ others.
According to Linda Pilkington, Perfumer and Founder of the cult fragrance line Ormonde Jayne, “Osmanthus is sexy ………..because it exudes pure and simple passion and awakens the senses. The Osmanthus woman doesn’t shout for attention, but expects it and gets it. Osmanthus is a perfume pulsating with great honesty and beauty. It doesn’t compete with you but adds to your natural panache”.
Exactly so, when I wear Osmanthus, it’s a gentle, intimate confidence. You must be very close to me to smell it. If you are that close, then it’s a personal statement. I like you. I know you. I am allowing you to get close to me.
There are times when I want to project all out glamour, even when I am wearing
jeans and a tee shirt. That is when I wear X by Clive Christian. Heads turn,
especially male ones. Women whisper and shyly ask me for the name of my fragrance.
They write it down.
Last week, I went to a reunion, and my long ago secret crush (who never even knew
my name) was as pesky as a mosquito. “Wow, you look great. You smell great.
Why haven’t we met before”? I smiled, uttered a few pleasantries and walked away,
my X wafting.
I asked Victoria Christian, (daughter of Clive and head of Global Media and Events
for the Company) about the ‘X Factor’. Victoria explained, “The X perfumes were created
to capture that moment of electricity when you catch eyes with someone across a crowded
room and then cannot stop looking back...the perfumes are unconventional in that the heart
notes are the main focus and are quite simply some of the most powerful natural aphrodisiacs mankind has ever known.
X for women oozes Egyptian Jasmine, echoing the infamous Cleopatra and
her capture of Marc Anthony's heart using the intoxicating essence as she sailed towards him -deep, sultry, sensual - and dotted with tempting fruits like pink peach, mandarin, rhubarb to keep the nose addicted and coming back time and again...I have never known a woman who wears it or a man who smells it to be disappointed."
Take time to really experience your favorite fragrances. Find one or two that bring out the’ inner you’. Watch what happens as your smile is a little brighter, as you stand a little taller and as you exude confidence.
Leave the note pad at home as well as those long tails.
By Michelyn Camen