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November 20, 2008
In this issue we feature The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Two- Nest Fragrances,
Le Cherche Midi, and Joya with featured interviews , Cinquieme Sens opens an Olfactory training center in New York City, view the stunning Holiday ‘08 from Bond No. 9
and UNDER THE RADAR: Estéban; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Dominique Alison CEO . We feature Scents in the City: Clyde’s on Madison Fragrant Gems Amidst the Bobby Pins: An Interview with General Manager Rick Friedland and Blossom and Spice…and Everything Nice. We are also proud to feature in-depth interviews with two artisanal natural perfumers: Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums and an interview with Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery that includes a review; "Cat’s Meow" by Tonie Silver, Yves Rocher Secrets d' Essences Rose Absolute & Iris Noir and a new fragrance from Switzerland by Perfumer Brigitte Witschi, who created the new fragrance "edelweiss".
We share with you; The American Society of Perfumers Announces Honorees from its 2008 Perfumers’ Choice Awards, Nature’s Bounty: How to Smell ’Up’, Even When the Dow is Downnnnnnnnn; Just our Two Scents , Parlux Fragrances signs Queen Latifah and Aftelier’s Mandy AfteI Introduces Cassis . We offer Estée Lauder’s Vintage Jewels collection, Ormonde Jayne’s new multi-wick candle and new release of Ormonde Jayne’s Zizan, Chicago Entrepreneur launches “lifetherapy”, Strange Invisible Perfumes Holiday 2008 and Caron Paris Pays Tribute to Haute-Parfumerie with Montaigne Diamélite.
December 1, 2008
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Scentsational Holiday Gift Guide , The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part Three - Antica Farmacista, Archipelago Botanicals including interviews & "The Best of the Rest" , Viva La Juicy…The Grown Up Fragrance , UNDER THE RADAR: An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Salvatore Piazzolla of Hampton Sun and Parfums Mercedes Jus d'Amour new fragrance review by Juvy Santos. We also feature UPTOWN GIRL: Perfumer / Aromatherapist Dawn Spencer Hurwitz opens new design studio & storefront in Boulder Colorado's fashionable district and "A Good Pre-Christmas Sniff at First In Fragrance, Germany" By Bettina d’Onofrio.
Finally, Sniffapalooza Magazine is proud to make a special announcement! THE fragrance event of the season is fast approaching and the one and only fragrance legend, Michael Edwards, author of Fragrances of the World, has granted us an exclusive interview. We are thrilled to welcome MICHAEL EDWARDS in a rare appearance as we celebrate the 25th anniversary of his iconic fragrance reference books and revolutionary classification system at Sniffapalooza's 2008 Holiday Fete. Don't miss our next issue for the video and written interview with Mr. Edwards by Mark David Boberick.
A Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive
Burning Down The House Series
The Influencers Speak
Sniffapalooza Magazine and Michelyn Camen interviews Jean Claude Ellena; In-House Perfumer of the House of Hermès, Michel Roudnitska, Mandy Aftel, Kilian Hennessy, Chandler Burr Perfume Critic for the New York Times, George Wuchsa-The Global E-tailer of First-In-Fragrance, Ron Robinson of Apothia, Andy Tauer, Yosh Han, Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood of LuckyScent, Vero Kern and Sarah Horowitz-Thran.
The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, Karen Dubin and Karen Adams of Sniffapalooza.com
Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christoph Hornetz ‘Les Christophs’, Nobi Shioyo of
S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances and Robin K. of Now Smell This blog.
Niche fragrance at its best is cutting edge, thought provoking and controversial. These are our anti-heroes and heroines of scent. Some are outspoken, some stay hidden in the shadows. All are unique.
Why did the sales of niche fragrances double within the last year and a half, while the commercial fragrance industry is losing ground? With nearly a thousand new launches a year, millions spent in advertising, flanker after flanker, what is happening to our fragrant world? I posed this question to a group of industry ‘influencers’ (les nez, the retailers, the niche and artisnal perfumers, the critics, the bloggers, and the owners of fine fragrance companies), who are leaving their thumbprints, as unique as their words, on the match that is burning down ‘the house of mediocrity’.
In this extraordinary edition of “Burning Down the House”, an unprecedented panel of fragrance game-changers and some of the greatest innovators in the Fragrance industry share their personal perspectives and thought-provoking answers to the question:
“What are your feelings about the state of contemporary fragrance and how do you think the industry must evolve in order to stay relevant to an oversaturated market?”
Their words are uncut, unplugged, unedited.
In a series written exclusively for Sniffapalooza Magazine, prepare yourself for a multi sensory olfactive journey, where fragrances embrace the worlds of fiction, fine art, film, music and dance.
Tales, myths, and larger than life characters thrive in the world of perfumery and this is what makes perfumery mysterious, multifaceted, intriguing, magical, and forever wavering between fact and fiction. In Volume 1, Book 1i. we meet the niche ‘feminines’ who had most profound effects on us from both a literary and olfactive perspective.
In Volume 1, Book ii we meet a Cop and three Queens, a pampered socialite and a woman of ill repute, and an aging beauty and a Goddess. These fictional and/or iconic women span centuries and continents, blurring the lines between truth and fiction and time --- from the 10th century BC to the Year 2058. These are their fragrances; the scents that would bring them to life and live forever in the realm of our imagination.
Part 3 features Men in fiction – flawed as all men (and women) are, but men who dare to dream, to rule or to experience. Whether they are vilified or placed high atop a pedestal, here are five iconic men who 'lived' in a world long before our own time. These men will always resonate with us and are brought to life here through fragrance.
January 6, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: An Interview with Camille Goutal, Artistic Director; Annick Goutal Parfums, we feature the continuing series "Real Men Wear Violets" By Michael W. Davis and The Scent of a Woman: Verno Kern’s Rubj" . We continue this issue with "Milieu…The Fragrance for the New Year" and "An Old Chypre Recipe Reborn; Aedes Attains A Class Act With Une Histoire De Chypre" By Barbara vanBok. We also offer the press release for the NEW Bond No. 9 BROOKLYN fragrance and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews New York City Perfumer Alexis Karl of Scent by Alexis, we introduce two new products; the new release of PureDistance Parfume and a Puredistance Perfume Lounge opens in Vienna, we close out with ExfoliShave.
January 13: Due to the overwhelming response to our interview with Camille Goutal, Ms. Goutal has expanded her interview and in this edition reveals many new personal insights.
DelRae Roth of Parfums DelRae
photo credit: Zenobia Barlow
January 19, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive: Jean-Claude Ellena Réinventés Vanilla; Hermès Hermessence Introduces Vanille Galante , Sniffapalooza Magazine’s Exclusive Interview and breaking news item with Ms. DelRae Roth CEO, Creative Director of Parfums DelRae as she speaks of the latest fragrance Emotionelle with Michel Roudnitska . We also feature The Magical Allure of Fragrances in Fairyland, A Perfume Review , Campos di Ibizia Reviews by Kathy Patterson, Another Birthday? Wear Grapefruit , Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Trina Lewis Natural Perfumer, Founder and Director of HipLilly Aroma Couture™ and we finish this issue with The Allure of Amber .
February 1, 2009
In this issue we feature a Sniffapalooza Magazine Exclusive:
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'. ymine Salimpour, Founder and Owner of Hors Là Monde as she also introduces Lady Shiloh, Real Men Wear…Perles By Michael Davis and Sniffapalooza Magazine interviews Mercedes Ganon of Parfums Mercedes Jus D’ Amour.
We feature Crazylibellule and the Poppies L’eau de Crazy Cologne, Diptyque opens new a boutique in New York City with exclusive Diptyque Roses Candle and you can Take an Olfactive Journey with Sue Phillips of Scenterprises/Perfume Studio. We offer to our readers Ginestet: Gets Sweeter With Time; The History, The Fragrance, The Aroma. Love Notes , Kingsbury Fragrances Twilight Rose review By Raphaella Barkley, Ron Robinson introduces Pearl Eau De Parfum by Apothia Los Angeles and Ajne offers us Aphrodite honoring The Goddess of Love and for the men; Adonis. We close with The Naturals: Sniffapalooza Magazines Interview with Natural Perfumer Lisa Fong of Artemisia Natural Perfumes.
Click to visit Purrfumery
October 18, 2008
Sniffapalooza Fall Ball New York City
In this huge and special issue we continue to feature the spectacular must-see series titled Burning Down the House : The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited with The ‘Power’ Influencers of Niche---men and women whose names are the ‘Mount Rushmore’ of the revolution. Serge Lutens, Frederic Malle, Thierry Wasser, Bertrand Duchaufour, Laurice Rahmé, Neil Morris, talk to Sniffapalooza Magazine. The House sizzles in this issue.
We feature an interview with Perfumer Aurélien Guichard of GIVAUDAN, Sniffapalooza Magazine exclusive interview with Dr. Avery Gilbert; Olfaction expert and Scientist, interview with Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian by Michelyn Camen, Interview with Jessica Dunne of Ellie and Ellie Nuit by perfumer Michel Roudnitska, a feature on Téo Cabanel at Henri Bendel, Michael Davis tells us why "Real Men Wear Roses, Interview with Cathy Gins of Aromawear, Bringing Sexy Back , Interview with Sarah Barton King of The Pink Room and a Halloween article by James Dotson titled Perfumes of the Dead and finally a beautiful poem, Love Among the Spices and Ralph Lauren's NOTORIOUS.
Sniffapalooza Magazine features the upcoming FALL BALL and in no particular order we visit Takashimaya, Bond No. 9, Bergdorf Goodman's, Henri Bendel, Aedes de Venustas, Lafco NY and much more. Each feature is full of information, perfumers, fragrances and interviews.
Each article is full of photographs, so scroll down, click away, have fun and welcome to this special issue of Sniffapalooza Magazine Fall Ball.
November 9, 2008
In this issue we feature the finale of the spectacular must read series titled Burning Down the House by : The Influencers Speak - Uncut, Unplugged and Unedited. Part Five features Christopher Brosius of CB.I Hate Perfume, Linda Pilkington of Ormonde Jayne Fragrances, Christophe Laudamiel and Christophe Hornetz ‘Les Christophes’, Nobi Shioyo of S Perfumes, Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner; Co-Owners of Aedes de Venustas Boutique, Alessandro Gualtieri of Nasomatto, Marie-Helene Rogeon ‘La Reine de le Rose’ of Les Parfums de Rosine Fragrances . The House continues to sizzle in this issue. We offer a warm welcome to Nathan Branch with his new article How Men Can Learn to Stop Worrying and Love the Unisex Fragrance or "Gee, You Smell Terrific!", new release from CREED - ‘LES FLORALIES’ which debuts in December, new series debut with Under the Radar: Cereus Pour Homme and Pour Femme and features an Exclusive Interview with Bill Rosenbaum, President, CB I Hate Perfume: Burning Leaves Autumnal Magic by Michael W. Davis, Pacifica Holiday Gifts Holiday 2008 Guide, The “New” Luxury: Home Fragrance Part One- BURN Candles, Saint Parfum Authentic Parfumeur and Amourelle Paris, Assoulen.
Sniffapalooza Magazine also Interviews Kedra Hart of Opus Oils, a fascinating look into her life and fragrances. We share with you an upcoming event in New York City featuring Chandler Burr from the New York Times and we are extremely proud to debut a new fragrance from Parfums Mercedes exclusive at Lucky Scent. Cathy Gins of Aromawear shares holiday information and a great idea for perfumistas and Juvy Santos enchants us with her "Sniffapalooza-thon" of the Fall Ball. We finish this issue with a link to many wonderful photographs from the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball from photographer and friend Michael Friedlander.
If you missed the huge Sniffapalooza Magazine FALL BALL NEW YORK CITY issue, full of exclusive photographs, reviews, article and interviews; you can view it in it's entirety. Please note that we have gone to a new format/layout for your viewing pleasure so please click on each section to view full page and each article.
December 15, 2008
In this issue we feature "Fragrance for the Designated Driver: ‘Spritzers’ That Leave Us Giddy" , we welcome a new guest contributor, Elena Vosnaki features a in-depth article "Jean Claude Ellena Is All About The Dirt!", "A Holiday Treat, an interview with the incomparable Monsieur Olivier Creed , "A Tale of Two Cities: Isfarkand by Ormonde Jayne" By Michael W. Davis and we feature the continuing series UNDER THE RADAR: Red Flower; An Exclusive Sniffapalooza Magazine Interview With Founder and Owner,
We continue this issue with Voluspa Floraison Collection: The Fragrances of Luxurious and Faraway Places , a new Bond No. 9 release called Boca, Sniffapalooza Magazine is honored to interview the well-known Dominique Dubrana; Composer Perfumer of the Italian company La Via del Profumo, we offer a very warm welcome to John E. Smith, an author and herbalist with his article "Attars -Fragrances Of The Soul" and Bergdorf Blends Ajne for Blokes and finally, we end with my favorite "Christmas Present Fragrant Picks". We close out this issue with some photographs from the Sniffapalooza Holiday Fete last weekend in New York City with Michael Edwards and watch for our exclusive interview coming soon!
March 1, 2009
In this issue we feature the upcoming Sniffapalooza Fragrance Fair in Germany on
March 20th - 22nd, 2009 in Düsseldorf and Cologne Germany, upcoming event PERFUME EXPO AMERICA 2009 in New York City, Bond No. 9 Announces Bottle Design Contest, Orange Blossom-The Other White Flower , New fragrance release: Burren Perfumery, Over 35 years of luck in Ireland and we feature Comforting Scents for Uncomfortable Times .
We also feature information about C-THRU, a new fragrance collection for young women, new fragrance release Fleur d’ Amour by Sylvie Beljanski, we give a warm welcome to new contributor Alisa Shorago with her Kristen Michèle Parfumeur’s Épice Orientale Fragrance Review, new fragrance Diesel For Life Unlimited, Estée Lauder introduces Bronze Goddess Fragrance, Beauty, Skincare and Lip Gloss Collection, Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz adds three new 'Aroma-Color' perfumes to Parfums des Beaux Arts Limited Edition Collection called TRUE COLORS and Regal, Remarkable and Romantic, The Reputation of Espiègle by Guepard . We also feature Raphaella's Roses Part Two and Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Natural Perfumer Persephenie.
February 12, 2009
In this issue we feature Sniffapalooza Magazine Interviews Perfumer Kristen Michèle of Kristen Michèle Parfumeur, an in-depth article about melon in fragrances called "Niche Meloncholy" By Elena Vosnaki, upcoming Guerlain releases, Love the Key to Life and Parfums des Beaux Arts: A Gallery of Masterpieces featuring Dawn Spencer Hurwitz .
We also feature Raphaella's Roses, Ormonde Jayne now offers initial engraved bottles, online boutique Mio Mia is offering a free sample offer; Estée Lauder shows us Valentine’s Day Gifts, Viva La Ajne hits Las Vegas and Sniffapalooza Magazine features "The Naturals" with an interview with Julie Longyear of Irie Star/Blissoma.
A Dozen Roses Unlike Any Others By Michelyn Camen that feautures Perfumers, Retailers and “Friends- in- Fragrance” as they tell us the about the most intriguing 'rose in their garden'.
Bond No. 9 Me
March 15, 2009
In this special issue, we feature four breaking news items. Exclusives... Turtle Bay SPAfumerie will introduce the re-launch of Futur de Robert Piguet and we include a special note from Joe Garces, President of Robert Piguet Parfums, NEW Amouage Ubar will be unveiled at Bergdorf Goodman's and Aedes De Venustas. Christopher Chong, Amouage Creative Director and David Crickmore, CEO of Amouage will be there to introduce the new fragrance.
Aedes De Venustas will launch the newest fragrance Amouage Ubar as well as the new Molinard 160 with special guest; Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard, Owner of Molinard, Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard will attend both Henri Bendel and Aedes De Venustas
to unveil 160, Molinard's New Anniversary fragrance. 160 The New Molinard Fragrance
will be showcased in "avant-premiere'.
In this issue, we feature an Interview with Roberto Ferreira from the House of Creed that include Creed Reviews For The Men by Christopher Voigt and Mark David Boberick and Reviews For Women, Real Men Wear...Lavender featuring Creed Royal Scottish Lavender by Michael Davis, we feature a very special DSH Perfume: The Road Less Traveled And What You Can Find There by Christine Lewandowski. We continue with a Magazine Interview with Perfumer Dawn Spencer Hurwitz as she talks about fragrance and inspiration.
We feature Pretty in the City; The Paradox of Pretty, Bond No. 9 Astor Place:Mesmerizing New Eau de Parfum. We offer Bond No. 9 Fragrance Reviews of Brooklyn and Boca By Kathy Patterson and we are proud to feature the beautiful Lisa Hoffman: Wife, Mother and Perfumer with a Mission, A Magazine Interview.
Read about KILIAN’S latest temptation, travel sprays for men and women, Hanae Mori Parfums Contest Winner, Guerlain new releases, Aedes De Venustas newest releases, GREENWITCH: In Honor to the White Lady, A Green Chypre Perfume By Roxana Villa, upcoming event at Turtle Bay SPAfumerie, review of Annick Goutal Un Matin D’Orage by Diane Artzberger, ONDE By Michelyn Camen, Gump's San Francisco NEW fragrance called Baroque Pearl, SCENTS FOR THE MIND: The Attars of Asia By John E Smith and finally end with Celebrity Fragrant Watch!
Real Men Wear...
Creed Royal Scottish Lavender
by Michael W. Davis
Do real men actually wear pink?
Some do, but I don't. Trust me when I
say it has nothing to do with insecurities. I just don't look good in pink. However, I do wear lavender. Not the pastel purple color either. I wear the scent of lavender. When I am in the mood for lavender, only Creed Royal Scottish Lavender can satisfy my craving.
The history and use of lavender has been documented as far back as the ancient Egyptians who used it in mummification and making cosmetics. Influenced by the Egyptians, the Ancient Greeks used lavender in making perfume. The Romans found a variety of uses for lavender form treating wounds to using it as an aphrodisiac. During the reign of Henry VIII, ladies of the era used lavender to scent linens and repel insects. Queen Victoria used lavender so much that it developed the stigma of being an 'old lady' smell. In modern times, lavender plays an essential ingredient in fougères, which have been popular with men for years.
Although not a fougère, Creed's Royal Scottish Lavender is a classic that has been in production since 1856. Royal Scottish Lavender opens with a crisp, clean lavender accompanied by effervescent citrus notes of bergamot and lemon. Lavender is somewhat short-lived but clove from the heart lends lavender some resonance. Clove adds a spicy kick to the scent and blends with lavender creating an olfactory illusion that lavender is still present after it fades. Vanilla and sandalwood anchor the base with a buttery smoothness.
I know what you're thinking...vanilla? Don't worry. You are not going to smell like your grandmother's kitchen or a bakery. Vanilla adds the barest trace of sweetness to soften the cloves and augment the clean, polished buttery wood accord in the base.
Creed Royal Scottish Lavender is the quintessential lavender fragrance with a timeless classic feel. There is nothing 'old fashioned' about it at all. But don't be surprised, guys, if the young ladies borrow your bottle.
Michael W. Davis is a writer and management consultant in Atlanta, Georgia. Michael has been collecting and testing fragrances for fifteen years, and is an active contributing member of Basenotes. Michael holds a B.S. in psychology, an M.S. in organizational behavior and focuses on behavior modification in corporate environments. Michael also studies the effects of fragrance from a social psychology perspective.
Bond No. 9 Astor Place:
Mesmerizing New Eau de Parfum
Inspired by New York’s
Most Vibrant Arts-and-Style Intersection
Back in the day, when Downtown was Uptown, nowhere in New York was grander than Astor Place—the enclave stretching between Broadway and Third Avenue, and floating between 14th and Houston Streets. Here, where much of the land was owned by the early 19th century fur-trading philanthropist John Jacob Astor, were situated the city’s greatest theaters, a row of colonnaded Greek Revival townhouses to rival Regent Park’s in London, the hallowed neo-Romanesque Great Hall of Cooper Union, the Renaissance-Revival Astor Library (now the Public Theater), and the neo-Renaissance shopping emporium John Wanamaker. Even the intersecting traffic thoroughfares added to the swirl of energy. Every street that enters the Astor Place energy field disappears and morphs into another street when it exits. (Eighth Street becomes St. Marks Place … Lafayette Street becomes Fourth Avenue … the Bowery becomes Third Avenue.) Clearly magic is at work here.
Astor Place kept a low profile through much of the 20th century. But then in 1967, Tony Rosenthal’s multi-ton gravity-defying geometric black metal sculpture, informally known as “the Cube,” was installed on its vertical axis right in the center of the plaza where Lafayette meets the Bowery. A bit to the south, that spacious promenade, Lafayette Street, is home not only to the acclaimed Public Theatre, where its see-and-be-seen Joe’s Pub now beckons to a stylish late-night crowd, but also to the Astor Place Theater. Ensconced in Colonnade Row, it was there that Sam Shepard’s plays were once performed, while Blue Man Group has held the subterranean stage since 1991. Berthed in the ground-level spaces, meanwhile, are a series of ultra-elegant mid-century home furnishings shops.
With Astor Place back on its game, we at Bond No. 9 decided it was time for a namesake eau de parfum. Hence Astor Place, the scent, an intoxicatingly fresh spring floral that starts out with a bold and unapologetically seductive freesia-poppy-violet leaf composition, and then simmers down into the smooth, steady notes of teakwood and musk. It’s contemporary Downtown all right, with a lot of grace.
The surface design of the Astor Place flacon echoes the angles and cubes of the Rosenthal sculpture, but renders them in a range of triangles displaying the richest array of colors ever seen in the Bond No. 9 bottle repertory. These triangles also recall Astor Place’s lampposts, curbs, and even cracks in the pavement which are lovingly decorated with mosaic tile shards by local denizens. Art abounds on Astor Place—and now it’s in liquid form too.
Astor Place, the eau de parfum, is available in two sizes: 100ml and 50 ml, at Bond No. 9’s four New York City boutiques, www.bondno9.com, 877.273.3369, and at Saks Fifth Avenue nationwide.
Launch date: April 2009
Suggested Retail Price: $220 for 100ml; $145 for 50ml
Astor Place Swarovski Limited-Edition for Mother’s Day - $300 for 100ml
We want your empty perfume bottles for recycling -- all of them! Just bring your empty glass perfume bottles—ours or anyone else’s—to Bond No. 9 boutiques and Bond No. 9 perfume counters at Saks Fifth Avenue nationwide. We’ll take care of the rest. And by way of an eco-friendly thank-you, we’ll give you a refillable pocket spray. Free with any purchase.
Annick Goutal Un Matin D’Orage
by Diane Artzberger
Picture a Japanese garden, one stormy morning… that’s the lead off line for the newest Annick Goutal Un Matin D’Orage.
Created by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal, they wanted to give the wearer the idea of the garden with it’s “rain drenched earth” but the sun also “piercing the balmy mist that rises” from the earth, over the “rain drenched white flowers” They have succeeded extremely well.
Un Matin D’Orage starts off with hit of jasmine, a nice jasmine, and one that is not very indolic. From there the white flowers begin to blossom and the tiniest bit of citrus wafts by. The fragrance quickly gives way to full on gardenia, a wet gardenia.
The gardenia you would smell right on the bush, fresh, with the foliage adding a note of it’s own. It is in no way heavy or cloying and is one of the sprightliest scents I’ve smelled in awhile. It’s fresh, light, and sunny. I immediately got an image of a sunny Spring day bursting with blooms. (It was a great visual moment).
The dewy rain figures in throughout the scent as well. Not aquatic but just a hint of wet. The wet that caresses the flowers lightly and adds that bit of scent when there is heat out to burn off that dew. It all mixes together in a heady white floral that enchants the nose.
The notes for Un Matin D’Orage are:
Jasmine Sambac, Soft Magnolia, Sicilian Lemon, Peppery Ginger, Indonesian Champaca and Green Perilla.
Diane Artzberger has been a fragrance person for most of her life, traced back to those solid Avon perfume pendants for kids (of which she still has one) and Loves Lemon, never Baby Soft. She still loves citrus fragrance but has moved on from Loves, and clearly remembers that Christmas morning she found a sample of a high end French fragrance in her stocking, and was elated, surprised, and asked for the full bottle the next Christmas. So, really, this is all her parents fault. Diane discovered a love for writing when she returned to college after some years absence, took a journalism class, and went on to win a collegiate journalism prize. She has also written columns for her local newspaper, and writes the beauty blog The Beauty Alchemist.
Celebrity Fragrant Watch
Parker Posey was seen recently at the CO Bigelow Pharmacy in New York City buying up ALL of the fragrances and products of Sarah Bartons King's The Pink Room. The Pink Room line can also be purchased at SPAfumerie and Sarah will be on hand at SPAfumerie to show off her fragrances.
Parfum No. 1 Notes: bergamot, rose, jasmine, lily of the valley, violet, vanilla, moss, musk
Pour Toi Notes: Lemon, Blackcurrant, Grapefruit, Rose, Fleur de Melati, Lily of the Valley, Sandalwood, Vanilla, White musk.
CO Bigelow Pharmacy
414 Avenue of the Americas
New York, NY 10011
Sienna Miller. While everyone is cutting back on even small luxuries, Trance Essence Parfum is finding an expanding fan base -unusual for a niche perfume, particularly in economic down times. Sienna Miller, the latest celebrity to be seduced by Trance Essence natural fragrances, said in a personal note to Trance Essence brand creator Janna Sheehan, that “The fragrances are all wonderful and I love wearing them. XX Sienna” Sienna’s favorite is Abbey Rose, which is naturally beautifull and inspired by an independent, iconic, fabulous girl, just like her. Abbey Rose parfum is infused with rich notes of Bulgarian rose, organic French lavender, Italian bergamot and fig and is wonderful to wear in the Spring!
Sheehan calls her fragrance collection “Muse produced not mass produced,” and is delighted that each of her unique six nectars – Abbey Rose, Chen Xi, Genie in a bottle, Whyte Rabitt, Hail Merri and Pink Kat – are individual enough to appeal to very different celebrity women and those who aspire to be like them. Sheehan is excited that the positive response to her fragrance line continues to grow despite economic woes. “Perfumes enhance self-esteem and a personal sense of well-being, something we can all use now!” www.tranceessence.com and
Launch of KILIAN’s latest temptation
A travel spray for men and women. A magnetic object, literally. A monolith engraved with Achilles’ shield, signature of “L’Oeuvre Noire” collection. As always, the travel spray is refillable and available in all scents to travel with your favorite Kilian fragrance anywhere you choose to go and can meet us in the world.
Available in all the scents of the collection.
The travel spray with 4 refills .25 fl.oz. $ 135
The set of 4 refills .25fl.oz $ 70
On counter: March 2009
BERGDORF GOODMAN New York Sniffapalooza Spring Fling
Bergdorf Goodman and Aedes De Venustas
to unveil the newest fragrance
Exclusive! Ubar will be unveiled at Bergdorf Goodman's and Aedes De Venustas.
Ubar will be unveiled at Bergdorf Goodman prior to Aedes and
both Christopher Chong, Amouage Creative Director and David
Crickmore, CEO of Amouage will be there with Marlena Egan
form EM Distribution to introduce the fragrance.
Niche luxury fragrance house Amouage has reintroduced ‘Ubar’ for Woman,
a sophisticated and mystical perfume inspired by the rediscovery of the long lost
ancient Arabian frankincense trading city of Ubar, called the ‘Atlantis of the Sands’
by Lawrence of Arabia and which was rediscovered in 1992 in the South of Oman.
The evocative fragrance infuses reference points from Ubar’s mystery and
splendor and the bottle is designed therefore to resemble a city rising from the sands.
‘Ubar’ opens with a fresh and citrus aroma of Bergamot, Lemon and Lily-of-the-Valley
in the top notes which then harmoniously pervades to a soft and romantically floral
blend of Damascene Rose and Jasmine in the heart note. The fragrance is rounded off
with sweet and velvety notes of Civet and Vanilla in the rich base.
Originally launched in 1995 and highly acclaimed by fragrance connoisseurs, ‘Ubar’
is crafted with and adheres to the House of Amouage’s exquisitely simple philosophy
of producing fragrances representing the ultimate quality of ingredients and true luxury.
‘Ubar’ for Woman is created for Amouage’s discerning international clientele and is available in 50ml and 100ml Eau de Parfum. The iconic Amouage bottle has been sprayed with a graduation from solid gold at the base to clear at the top to reflect the formerly hugely wealthy City’s wondrous architecture built of soft pink sandstone and pillars of gold. The dome-inspired cap is crystallized with a single Swarovski smoked topaz crystal.
Official Notes are: Tangerine, Orange, Litsea Cubes, Violet leaves, Jasmine, Orange Blossom
Ylang, Tuberose, Freesia, Lily of the valley, Rose Wood, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Copahu balm, Vanilla and Amber.
Special thanks to Sabine Hernandez, AMOUAGE, image courtesy of Amouage.
Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard, Owner of Molinard is going to be at Henri Bendel AND Aedes De Venustas to unveil 160, Molinard's New Anniversary fragrance. 160 will be launched early Fall in the US, so it is a special "avant-premiere"! 160 The New Molinard Fragrance will be showcased in "avant-premiere' the Spring and will be released this summer and fall.
With this new fragrance, Molinard composed a beautiful bouquet; sensual and flowery, classic and modern. 160 is inspired by Molinard's House heritage, it's bottle is a black gala evening dress decorated with exquisite Swarowski crystals reflecting the refinement and joyousness of its scent.
Top notes are Jacinthe, and Muguet, heart is Cyclamen, Ylang, Ylang, Jasmin and Iris and base is Cedre, Santal, Mousses, Ambre and Muscs.
INTRODUCING THE NEW GUMP’S
FRAGRANCE “BAROQUE PEARL”
EAU DE PARFUM
SAN FRANCISCO – Gump’s, the legendary San Francisco retailer, will launch its NEW fragrance, “Baroque Pearl,” this spring.
Working with Through Smoke Creative, Gump’s commissioned award-winning master perfumer Olivier Gillotin from legendary fragrance house Givaudan to create its first fine fragrance, Baroque Pearl. Inspired by the sensual beauty and iridescent luster of this exquisite gem, the luminous floral unfolds in layers, with top notes of exotic bergamot and mandarin giving way to shimmering orange blossom and finishing with creamy sandalwood. Like a pearl, the fragrance thrives on contact with the skin, constantly revealing new dimension and nuance. Decanted in a voluptuous glass bottle with a gold stopper, the eau de parfum nestles in a slate-gray keepsake box that opens with silk cords to reveal a rose-gold interior.
“We challenged ourselves to create a fragrance for our ideal Gump’s customer: classic, confident, educated, and well-travelled. It is not the sweet scent of a 20-something girl, but that of a worldly beauty,” says Marta Benson, CEO of Gump’s.
Baroque Pearl was developed for Gump’s by Through Smoke Creative, an award-winning fragrance and package design studio based in Sausalito, California. Gary McNatton, the company’s founder, says “Our inspiration for the scent came from one of nature’s most beautiful gifts, the pearl.
Not just a perfectly round, flawless pearl, but rather the baroque pearl. Each one is unique, individual and uncommon, much like a woman. This is one of the most important requirements in the creation of a fragrance: having the perfect muse.” Through Smoke Creative also developed the Gump’s Home Fragrance Collection, which won the 2008 FiFi® Award for “Interior Scent of the Year.”
Baroque Pearl is available beginning in April exclusively at Gump’s San Francisco store, catalog and online at www.gumps.com. The suggested retail price for 50ml is $98.00.
SCENTS FOR THE MIND
The Attars of Asia
By John E Smith
According to the Islamic Perfumery tradition, the use of alcohol and harsh solvents in commercial perfume manufacture
is thought to destroy the subtle quality of the plant. Whereas in the preparation of pure attars, the soul of the plant is captured,
giving the fragrance the ability to enhance the spirit of the wearer.
Often, if writing or talking about a particular fragrance, I will apply a few drops, to invoke the spirit of the plant, in order to ‘feel’
rather than merely recite ‘received wisdom’. Today, before starting this piece, I have applied Ruh Khus (Essence of Vetivert)
to the ridge of my right ear (according to Islamic tradition) and sat to meditate.
Yes, Khus is known in India, as ‘The Oil of Tranquillity’ but it is also quite uplifting. Although it is cooling and relaxing, it also
helps to concentrate scattered thoughts. So although this oil may be an aid to meditation it was not long before I had to return to my desk to write about its properties.
VETIVERT strengthens the nervous system. It reduces both tension and depression while stabilizing energy. This deep, dark perfume is a natural tranquillizer, being useful for insomnia, yet (rather like many of the Asian adaptogens) it appears to possess both sedative and stimulating properties.
LOTUS (nelumbo nucifera)
Studies have found that the lotus will germinate even after 500 years in polluted ground. In the Vedic culture of India, the lotus is regarded as a sacred symbol of purity, peace, enlightenment and beauty, due to the observation of such a beautiful flower arising from often highly polluted waterways.
In ancient Hindu mythology the lotus was said to spring from the navel of Vishnu (the maintainer) and seated within its petals was Brahma (the creator). A similar story comes from Ancient Egypt, where a child god was born from a giant blue lotus. The blue lotus was used to invoke Isis, Osiris and Thoth.
Saraswati, the consort of Brahma and goddess of wisdom, music and the arts is often depicted as sitting in a lotus – representing the crown chakra, the highest seat of consciousness.
The pure attar of the lotus is very rare, very expensive (around $1000 per ounce) and often falsified.
Heralded by all traditions and used for more than 4,000 years throughout the world. Sandalwood was given ‘Royal status’ in 1792 by the Sultan of Mysore, resulting in the Indian government being the official owner of all sandalwood trees in India. The best sandalwood is said to come from Mysore and Tamil Nadu, although the tree does grow in Australia and several Arabic countries.
In India sandalwood oils and incenses are used to calm the mind for meditation, and it is not uncommon to see forest sadhus (holy men), wearing not only sandalwood rosaries but also sandalwood paste on the brow to cool the brain. As a cosmetic preparation sandalwood will also assist in reducing wrinkles.
Medicinal Uses: Sandalwood is used to treat digestive disorders, as a muscle relaxant, to treat skin problems, stress and depression. Sandalwood is a tonic sedative and used by spiritual traditions to promote compassion.
Sandalwood oils and attars are now becoming much more expensive, due to its endangered status and although cheaper oils are available throughout the Arab world, they are not as potent as those from Mysore.
The above three attars work well together as all have a relaxing element, Lotus is a floral, higher note perfume, sandalwood is woody, middle to bottom, and vetivert is resinous and deep.
Turtle Bay SPAfumerie
900 Second Avenue (corner of 48th Street)
There are two events that cannot be missed during any event and both feature fine niche fragrances and champagne. One is the party at Turtle Bay SPAfumerie on Saturday evening and the other ends the event at Aedes on Sunday. Both are stellar boutiques. Turtle Bay SPAfumerie holds a special place in my heart, most likely because of Joe Garces. The man knows how to throw a party. I have so many memories already; a great time at the end of a busy day during a Sniffapalooza event with all of my dear friends. The boutique is stocked full of niche fragrances and his staff is absolutely wonderful. It is a highlight of any Sniffapalooza event and I will never forget his Fracas fuchsia colored cupcakes they served last year, even Martha Stewart would swoon.
This European-inspired spa and perfumery offers an extensive selection of spa services, coupled with a unique shopping experience. Indulge in breakthrough products and treatments provided by our dedicated staff of professional estheticians and therapists. Customized services include facials, body treatments, massage therapy and spa nail care. Bring the experience home and shop some of the most luxurious and coveted skincare, hair-care, bath & body, signature fragrance and color cosmetics brands presented on the perfumery floor. Some of the fragrances listed are: Annick Goutal, Bill Blass, Bois 1920, Caron, Carthusia, Claudie Pierlot, Costume National, Courvoisier, Escentric Molecules, Esteban, Etat Libre d'Orange, Etro, Fracas de Robert Piguet, Frapin, Ineke, Isabey, Juliette Has a Gun, Laura Tonatto Collection, Le Cherche Midi, Les Parfums de Rosine, Lilly Pulitzer, Lorenzo Villoresi, Lubin, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Miller Harris, Mona di Orio, Nasomatto Collection, Neil Morris Fragrances, Nobile 1942, Parfum d’Empire, Profumi di Pantelleria, Profumi di Firenze, Roger and Gallet, The Different Company, The Pink Room UK, Tommi Sooni.
Spring Fling Sniffapalooza friends will be able to preview “Futur de Robert Piguet” at the Turtle Bay SPAfumerie which is the last stop on Saturday and pre-orders will be taken for Futur during the visit to SPAfumerie which means you will have Futur delivered to you before the exclusive launch at Harrods in London.
In addition to the social event that this last stop of the day has become, celebrated with French Champagne
and chocolate covered strawberries a 20% discount for all your favorite fragrances will be offered and any Spa service booked that day will receive a 50% discount.
Futur de Robert Piguet will launch this Spring in London exclusively at Harrods and this Fall it will be available in the U.S. and Worldwide. The fragrance notes will have to discovered for yourself by sniffing “Futur” on April 4th at SPAfumerie, 900 Second Avenue (corner of 48th Street).
Molinard, was founded in 1849 in Grasse in Provence in the south of France, the birthplace of the worldwide perfume industry; remaining an entirely family-run business (oldest in France) right through to the present day. Molinard originally manufactured Eaux de Fleurs (flower-scented waters) and Eau de Colognes that were then sold in its small store in the heart of town.
In 1860, two new Molinard perfumes were introduced into the French Market : "Jasmin" and
" Rose ", later followed by "Mimosa" and "Violette", in sober, elegant crystal bottles by Baccarat. In 1891, The Queen Victoria, while staying in Grasse bought some Eaux de Cologne.
Bond No. 9 Reviews
Brooklyn and Boca
By Kathy Patterson
Bond No. 9 Brooklyn
Notes: grapefruit, cardamom, cypress wood, geranium leaves, juniper berries, cedarwood, leather, guaiacwood
Brooklyn is the latest scent from New York’s Bond No. 9. Clean and rather light for a Bond creation, Brooklyn leans toward the masculine, but I would wear it in a heartbeat. It’s a dry scent that would be lovely in the heat of summer, starting off with a very nice fresh grapefruit note on a woodsy background. Moments after application, there’s an interesting greenness that reminds me of the tomato plants I grow on my back porch in the summer, with an added hint of spice from the juniper berries that somehow manage not to make me think of gin (and for which I am thankful!). But on my husband, the gin comes out right away as an accompaniment to the grapefruit.
For most of the early stages of Brooklyn, the dominant woodsy note is cedar; later it becomes the softer and sexier guaiacwood. Also later in the development of the scent we get a leather note that’s so light it’s practically transparent. The sweet spice of cardamom should be in the opening, though I detect it more in the drydown. However, that may be a trick of the basenotes, since they are less-dry and slightly sweeter than the opening.
Overall, Brooklyn is a welcome and refreshing addition to the Bond No. 9 stable and I look forward to wearing it in the warmer months.
Bond No. 9 Boca
Notes: lily of the valley, black currant, gardenia, freesia, hedione, amber, cedarwood, cardamom, musk
Bond ventures out of New York completely with its new limited edition scent Boca. There’s no mistaking it for anything but girly: it’s a rich fruity floral, starting out with a ton of black currant fruit on a background of floral-flavored candyfloss. The predominant floral note is gardenia, making for a heady jolt of white flowers that add their own sweetness to the blend. The currant is tenacious and lingers into the drydown where it is joined by musk and a bit of sweet spice that mellows the scent out a bit.
Boca isn’t a scent for wallflowers – it’s not shy in the least and I would bet it blooms wonderfully in the hot weather of Florida, where it is available exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue stores in Boca Raton.
“I have always wanted to capture the magnetism that you
feel in the presence of a sensuous woman.
To pay tribute to this mysterious allure, I was inspired to create a trilogy of scents.”
– Giorgio Armani
French in origin, ONDE translates to wave. According to the Company,
“The Giorgio Armani Onde collection is an ode to the music created by
the vibration of an ancient gong. It is a sound that resonates within a
woman’s body and mind, a prelude to senses.”
Armani’s new trilogy of “Neo-Oriental” fragrances is a journey to three
distinct and ancient Occidental cultures whose legendary women
inspire artists, architects, writers, musicians and perfumers
to capture their elusive beauty....
Turtle Bay SPAfumerie to introduce the re-launch of
Futur de Robert Piguet
Joe Garces, President Robert Piguet Parfums
For the past year I have been working with Aurelien Guichard to bring back a piece of fragrance history that had almost disappeared, “Futur de Robert Piguet”. To re-launch this unique multi level fragrance with only the reference of an original bottle from the 70’s that was well preserved and found in the most unusual place in Mexico, Aurelien has structured the original scent that is going to be one of the most loved in the Robert Piguet collection.
Also with the help and guidance of the most diverse fragrance critic from across the pond who loved “Futur” from its original launch, I have been fortunate to find the final road map with his guidance to the glamorous fragrance that once was. Because of the genius and passion of Luca Turin we will present the perfect “Futur”. Robert Piguet Parfums is proud to introduce Futur de Robert
Piguet as a fragrance created with no boundaries, which is what
everyone anticipates and expects from a Piguet fragrance.
Futur de Robert Piguet will launch this Spring in London
exclusively at Harrods and this Fall it will be available in the
U.S. and Worldwide.
Spring Fling Sniffapalooza friends will be able to preview
“Futur de Robert Piguet” at the Turtle Bay SPAfumerie which
is the last stop on Saturday and pre-orders will be taken for
Futur during the visit to SPAfumerie which means you will
have Futur delivered to you before the exclusive launch at
Harrods in London. In addition to the social event that this last
stop of the day has become, celebrated with French Champagne
and chocolate covered strawberries a 20% discount for all your
favorite fragrances will be offered and any Spa service booked
that day will receive a 50% discount.
The fragrance notes will have to discovered for yourself
by sniffing “Futur” on April 4th at SPAfumerie, 900
Second Avenue (corner of 48th Street).
Images courtsey of Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd.
Raphaella's Roses Part Three.
Dawn M. Spencer Hurwitz
Perfumer and Certified Aromatherapist
Parfums des Beaux Arts
Talks about fragrance and inspiration...
"Since becoming a perfumer I have studied the history of perfumery (especially classical, French styles) and so of course, I have influences. So many, in fact, that it is difficult to one pin down.
I think I can mention three perfumers and a 'house' that continue to inspire me: Jacques Guerlain, Francois Coty, Edmond Roudnitska (who I lament to this day that I never had the chance to meet) and the House of Molinard. While the intense rivalry between Guerlain and Coty produced some of the greatest masterpieces of the 20th Century (Mitsouko, Chypre and Apres l'Ondee are utterly important to me) and the House of Molinard carries on the traditions of the Provençal style (the classics Habanita and Madrigal are two of my favorite vintage perfumes), I feel that it is Edmond Roudnitska whose visionary capabilities speak to me continuously on how to be truly creative and see the new way to use an ingredient or envision a new quality in a perfume. Actually, he is my icon" ....
Interview with Roberto Ferreira
House of Creed
"I had the opportunity to host two Master Classes in Sak's New York City a couple of years ago for Sniffapalooza and, to this day, they have been my among favorite ones. It truly makes a difference when presenter and audience share a passion for fragrance. It becomes a learning experience for everyone, including me. In each class, my guests have the opportunity to learn about the history of the House of Creed, the intensive labor behind the creative process, the raw materials, some perfume basics and, everyone's favorite, to sample all the creations in chronological order. At the end of the presentation, I offer a personal consultation to anyone interested and answer any questions about Creed or fragrances in general" ....
"For the House of CREED, the world’s only private luxury fragrance dynasty, I have two major roles.
As National CREED Educator, my mission is to train CREED specialists who serve the public at luxury stores from coast to coast to ensure they are the most responsive and knowledgeable representatives in the industry. As Curator of the CREED Collection in North America, my objective is to educate the public about Creed’s more than 45 fragrances in one-on-one meetings and to advise and assist my teammates, such as those in the company’s public relations department, who handle sometimes arcane questions about CREED that come in from members of the media and public."
by Christopher Voigt and Mark David Boberick
Reviews For Women
Wife, Mother and Perfumer with a Mission
It gives me great pleasure to introduce a woman who has dedicated her life to family in spite of the allure of flashing lights and glamour. Lisa Hoffman, Creator and Founder of Lisa Hoffman Beauty spent her life not as a skincare expert and perfumer of Variations Fragrance Collection but as a mother of six children and married to world famous and two time Academy Award winner actor, Dustin Hoffman. Lisa and Dustin married in 1980 after she graduated from law school. Lisa, like so many married women, dedicated her life to raising their children and maintaining calm and peace in hectic schedules that was a demand of such a high profile husband.
During, Mr. Hoffman’s career, Lisa was able to travel to many beautiful places and she took in all that nature had to offer. Lisa learned many skills during her traveling days with her husband and children that resulted in a skincare and fragrance empire. Lisa is called the “kitchen chemist” in the family due to testing and trying out products to promote beauty in a healthy and more natural way and to take the complexity out of daily use of beauty products and fragrances into something enjoyable and more convenient to use.
Here is Lisa Hoffman, who is used to being in the spotlight and on the red carpet with her famous husband.
Now it is Lisa’s turn to shine, this time alone as she talks about her life as a wife, mother and a mission to make improvements in the beauty industry...
The Road Less Traveled
And What You Can Find There
By Christine Lewandowski
With comments by Sofia Lewandowski
"Poetry, Art and Perfume each have their avid fans. However, rarely are they found as deliberate collaborations, unless, of course you are the aroma therapist, perfumer, painter and literary enthusiast, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. As an independent perfumer, Ms. Spencer Hurwitz has created a significant fragrance repertoire the depth and breath of which any of us, with access to a computer, can explore at our leisure. This is the reason I consider Ms. Spencer Hurwitz chosen style of marketing her fragrances, The Road Less Traveled. Like the path my family and I walked the same year I discovered DSH Perfumes, it looked intimidating and it was treacherous. Despite the occasional fall and the considerable focus required to complete the trail, the experience and the treasures we found along the way were worth the effort.
Unlike department stores that sell fragrances, Ms. Spencer Hurwitz encourages a leisurely, questing approach prior to investing in her hand-blended products. Instead, via the computer, a prospective client can explore the fragrances by note specific descriptions. Then a client can order samples, email any questions they may have to clarify concerns and try the scent on their skin. No sales pressure, no “drive by” perfuming from the scary people armed with the latest chemical concoction, just purely private sensory experience. This completely different way of looking at the fragrance consumer does not objectify us, does not demean us. Instead, it educates us and makes us active partners in a process and, it is, in my opinion, key to finding a truly magnificent fragrance. It does require time and effort on our part. However, what truly good thing does not? Here are a few of the treasures found along the way" ....
A must - read if you are a fan of DSH!
John E Smith B.A. (Hons) M:URHP, Dip C.H is a classical herbalist who draws from the herbal traditions of India, China and The Middle East. He is the author of ‘100 Herbs of Power’ – (Strategic Press Publications, New York).
Kathy Patterson has had an interest in fragrance all her life. Some of her fondest memories involve digging through her mother's toiletries and playing with her scented soaps. (She hated Mom's Youth Dew though.) At the ripe age of 40, Kathy discovered niche scents and Sniffapalooza. Now she's getting out of hand with the perfume collection, and her husband Neal thinks she's maybe a little crazy. Kathy is a jewelry designer/graphic artist/research analyst who lives in Baltimore, MD with her loving hubby and two cats. You can find her all over the place as theminx,including her site, http://theminx.com.
The gorgeous Lisa Hoffman
Watch for the Greenwitch!
“Hazel for the framework,
Rowan for the Head,
The body is of Hawthorne boughs and Hawthorne blossoms.”
~ Susan Cooper
In honor to the White Lady
A Green Chypre Perfume
by By Roxana Villa
Initially I intended to follow a traditional floral chypre formula when I set out to create this fragrance. A basic floral chypre consists of Labdanum, Oakmoss and Patchouli base, floral heart notes with citrus at the top, Bergamot being the most favored. I have some formulas where Vetiver and Sandalwood are also in the base with the other trilogy of traditional base notes. Being a fan of Vetiver I choose to include it in my chypre base. The first step was in experimenting with different chypre bases to get a nice melding of Oakmoss, Vetiver and Patchouli. Two were created; one with a light use of Oakmoss, the second a traditional formula which utilized copious amounts of the lichen resin. As the different Chypre Bases melded, I created a Musk accord and several Floral accords, one of which went very green. I called the green accord, Fern.
Pretty in the City
The Paradox of Pretty
By Michelyn Camen
Pretty…as an adverb,( i.e., ‘pretty tired’, ‘pretty good’) it has become a throat clearing word similar to’ ummm’ or ‘you know’. As an adjective, it has lost its descriptive charm. Pretty is one of those words that is a contradiction.
I recently read a review of a new fragrance that gave the impression that ‘pretty’ was an unflattering word. In this critique, I was left with the sense that since this fragrance didn’t smell like the sweaty underarms of a street vendor in a Moroccan souk, it therefore hadn’t been blessed by the divine noses of the perfume gods. A pithy blogger wrote this about a new niche release (she personally thought was pretty), “If you only like your XXXXX covered in asphalt or napalm, you will be disappointed.”
There’s a stigma attached to being labeled a ‘pretty’ woman in New York City; you grit your teeth when you see someone’s eyebrows raise as soon as they learn you just might be intelligent. Even then it’s just not enough. One must cultivate a ‘Janus’ mask, or have a soupcon of something more out of the ordinary; perhaps you must appear in a state of dishabille or speak with a foreign accent...
Hanae Mori Parfums Contest Winner
Dianna Quinteros, 24, a senior at the State University of New York at Stony Brook, loves to draw and design. Now she'll be seeing her artwork in stores coast to coast as the winner of the Hanae Mori Parfums National Art Contest.
The Queens native (who double majors in bio and studio art) won the contest that pitted students across the country against one another to see who could create a visual image that conjures Hanae Mori's classic Butterfly fragrance, the centerpiece of the Hanae Mori line that includes fragrances and body products for men and women.
Later this year, her pink design will appear, along with her name, on Hanae Mori Parfum gift boxes and silk scarves (made in France), distributed across the U.S. in 2009 at retailers including Nordstrom's.
Her winning work was displayed at Bloomingdale's in Huntington, New York for several weeks and is now in the headquarters office of Hanae Mori Parfums in New York.
"The color makes them perfect for special retail events and a
breast cancer awareness effort this fall," said a company spokesperson.
Hanae Mori Parfums is also talking to Ms. Quinteros about an
additional design project as Hanae Mori Parfums undergoes a major
merchandising and packaging revamp this year.
International Cosmetics & Perfumes, Inc. is the worldwide license
holder of Hanae Mori Parfums.
Hanae Mori, the great lady of Japanese fashion and Parisian haute
couture, introduced this fragrance in 1996 and the subtle composition
of scents make it unlike any other. The fragrance is a rare blend of
berries and flowers, with a distinctive tone of strawberries and almond,
giving an impression of vanilla. The bottle's top is distinctly made from glass,
a first for any fragrance. The top represents the beauty and delicate
shape of a butterfly with folded wings.
Notes: Strawberries, Bilberries, Black Currant, Bulgarian Rose,
Jasmine, Ylang-Ylang, Sandalwood, Almond, Praline. .
Hanae Mori Fragrances available at:
distilled from light
Since their inception, these fragrances have been Guerlain’s offering to Nature…To thank her for the offerings she has made to Guerlain. Because nature is an eternal source of inspiration that the perfumer cultivates and reveres, Guerlain created a collection of Eaux de Toilette that has since become famous.Aqua Allegoria eaux fraîches are always eagerly anticipated because they are always unexpected.Audacious marriages of raw materials go into these carefully crafted nectars, from which Guerlain makes its honey with each new season.
A desire for sun that surprises as the winter days end, the Tiaré-Mimosa Aqua Allegoria is an olfactory odyssey that gently transports the senses to other latitudes. Here, the heat is soft and light, the sun caresses the skin and lazy waves toss themselves languidly on the warm sand…
RITES OF SPRING
No other flower evokes with greater happiness the renaissance of nature and the blossoming of flowers in the first days of spring. Light and delicate, the cherry blossom is not just a flower: it is the star of nature’s annual spectacle, which takes place when the cherry trees put on a show with a breathtaking flowering that takes flight in a flurry of white and pink at the slightest gust of wind.Guerlain has captured the gentle euphoria of this floral whirlwind in an Aqua Allegoria full of pink freshness and emotion.Touched by the grace of a new season, this luminous and airy Fruity floral
dances like a petal in the wind on the most cheerful, charming notes of spring.
EXCLUSIVE Breaking News
Aedes De Venustas
to launch the newest fragrance Amouage Ubar AND the new Molinard 160!
Ubar will be launched at Aedes De Venustas. Sabine Hernandez from the House of Amouage will attend the event to introduce the fragrance for members only.
Jean-Pierre Lerouge Benard, Owner of Molinard will appear at Aedes De Venustas to unveil 160, Molinard's New Anniversary fragrance.
Other NEW fragrances available are the new Emotionelle by Parfums Delrae
Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens, Sel Marine and Iris de Nuit by Heeley.
Aedes De Venustas is one of my favorite places in the world, it is a jewel of a fragarance boutique.
In 1900, Molinard expands itself in an old perfume factory, whose structure was designed by Gustave Eiffel -equally the designer of the Famous Paris Tower (even today, still the site of Maison Molinard). A typically "Provencal-style" showroom is created and receives the Maison's first customers: rich English and Russian visitors who come to admire a magnificent collection of 17th and 18th century furniture, and buy Molinard Eaux de Colognes as well as its floral perfumes. 1921 is a highly creative year: Molinard creates two products that are still popular even today: Habanita "the perfume for cigarettes" which in 1924 became "the world's most long lasting perfume". This was followed by "Concréta", the world's first compact perfume, in which "natural flower wax is used directly as a perfume". Encouraged by its success, Molinard engaged the services of the famous master glassmaker René Lalique, who created and signed for Molinard the stunningly beautiful bottles "Iles d'Or" in 1930, "Madrigal" in 1930 and "Le baiser du faune" in 1932. In 1920 Viard, the famous bottles drawer, created some beautiful scent bottles for Molinard. In the thirties, the Baccarat crystal workshops created and produced for Molinard the perfume bottles for "7 diamonds in the Crown", "Christmas Bell", "Le Parfum des Parfums", etc. 1935-1945: Second World War, difficult times. Molinard invented "the Prisoner's parcel" to bring comfort to French prisoners. 1949: Molinard is 100 years old. A magnificent opuscule was edited and printed by Draeger containing photos of the most beautiful perfume bottles by Lalique, Baccarat and other famous master glassmakers of the period. Even today, this little book can still be found for sale at huge prices by antique booksellers...
Special thanks to Sabine Hernandez, image courtesy of Molinard.
Perfumer Aurelien Guichard
Available at Bergdorf Goodman and Aedes De Venustas during Sniffapalooza Spring Fling
Bottle image courtesy of House of Creed and Adam Brecht, other images courtesy of Editor
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