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Bond. No. 9 Andy Warhol Silver Factory Review by Mark David Boberick

Bond No. 9 Saks Fifth Avenue
For Her NEW REVIEW
by Christine Lewandowski & OTHERS

Chandler Burr Scent Dinners
and Interview by Mark David Boberick

For the Men: 2 by Creed
2 by Ormonde Jayne
By Mark David Boberick

Tom Ford
Black Orchid Voile de Fleur
by Kathy Patterson

Andy Tauer's Bottle Journey

Le Maroc Pour Elle Andy Tauer Perfumes
By Victoria Austin

Estee Lauder Tuberose Gardenia
by Raphaella

MY TOP 10 SCENTS OF SUMMER
Mark David Boberick

Juvy's Holy Grail

My Summer Favorites by Raphaella

Olivier Durbano by Kathy Patterson

I Married A Perfumista
by Neal Patterson

FIVE NEW ONES BY CB I HATE PERFUME by James Dotson

To See A Flower by Juvy Santos

NEW Bond No. 9 Coney Island

Library of Perfume Notes
by James Dotson

Sampaguita Memories
by Juvy Santos

Fragrance Memories
by Dora Truong

Tom Ford Private Collection
Tobacco Vanille
Perfume Review by Tracy Figler

CB I Hate Perfume Interview
by James Dotson

Floris London

Dr. Dorothy McCall Interview

Dr. James Dotson:
AUTO ATOMIZER

Chandler Burr web site
New York Times Perfume Critic

NEW Bryant Park reviews

NEW Ellie Perfume Review by
Patty Geissler

Dr. James Dotson
Amnosia: The Loss of Smell

New Guerlain perfumes

Lorenzo Villoresi
WINS THE PRIX COTY

Mandy Aftel new perfume reviews by James Dotson

Two NEW Estee Lauder:
Beautiful Love & Summer Fun

Apothia International News

Demeter Fragrance Reviews

Tom Ford Black Orchid Review

Ron Robinson "Curator of Cool"

Chanel Les Exclusif's Reviews
by Kathy Patterson

Roxana Villa press release

The Perfume Yogi
by James Dotson

IS THE PRESTIGE FRAGRANCE BUSINESS READY FOR REHAB?
by David Horner

Self-Portrait in Fragrance:
Beth Terry’s Creative Universe
By Michelyn Camen

A VISIT WITH MANDY AFTEL
By James Dotson

Guerlain's Cherry Blossom
By Juvy Santos

Sniffapalooza.com


  October 13, 2007 
                                         Fall is Fragrant!

 

  
   This issue is part two and is solely devoted to the upcoming fragrance extravaganza
   of the world, the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball!  The Guest Artists this year are spectacular
   for the event in New York City, Oct 20 & 21, 2007.  In this issue you will find many articles,
   all pertaining to the special events of Fall Ball.  For Bond. No 9 fans, we have reviews
   of the new Bond. No. 9 Sak's For Her and a review of the soon to be released
   Andy Warhol Silver Factory.   For the upcoming Chandler Burr "Scent Dinner"
   during the Sniffapalooza Fall Ball at the Carlyle Hotel in New York City and other
   location information, you will find it all here.  The Fall Ball is the biggest yet for Sniffapalooza.

  Click here for last weeks huge issue (Part One)
and Fall Ball schedule.

   We also feature in this issue "A Haunted Perfume" by James Dotson and an article
  on Beauty Habit.  Co-Editor of this issue was Mark David Boberick and would
   not be possible without him-

   Bellissimo!  Welcome to Sniffapalooza Magazine, where we celebrate all things fragrant.
  
       















Meet Laurice Rahme
of Bond No. 9 New York

All of us at Sniffapalooza know Laurice Rahme
but there are so many new guests attending this
year so she was very gracious to answer a few
questions for us for the upcoming event.

Mark David: Can you tell us briefly about
yourself, your Product Line, and its History?

I am French but have lived in New York City
for 25 years.  So I combine the art of 20th
century Parisian perfumery—everything from
the juice to the bottles and packaging—with
my love of New York.  I just couldn’t help but
give the city its own array of scents. Each
fragrance I create represents a specific downtown,
midtown or uptown locale or a citywide sensibility.

Mark David: As a perfumer, where do you find
your inspiration and what keeps it fresh
and interesting?

My inspiration is the world’s most dynamic muse; New York City itself!  Every neighborhood, every corner of this city is steeped in history yet has a discrete spirit.  It seems like every time I turn around, my imagination is sent running and planning the next fragrance.

Mark David: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?
We have some truly fabulous products made especially for the holidays. I am so excited to show them off, especially to the Sniffapalooza guests, who really know the market. I think they will agree that we have gone over the top this season!!

Mark David: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about them do you think makes them register to so many people?

Favorites include Chinatown, Wall Street and Eau de New York; I think it’s because both men and women embrace them.  Our best-seller, however, is The Scent of Peace.  Again, men and women love it, but I also believe that the concept of a peaceful (smelling) place appeals to something inside every person.  The fact that we donate a portion of this scent’s proceeds to Seeds of Peace doesn't hurt, either!

Mark David: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves, it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department?

It’s the fragrance that’s getting so much buzz right now, and it’s one that gives new meaning to the “art of perfumery.”
I will be thrilled to share with your members Andy Warhol Silver Factory—I promise, it’s like nothing they’ve smelled before!


For Holiday 2007 Bond No. 9 Has
Finally Gone Over The Top!

These are the goods to dazzle your editor,
your impossible-to-please art director, and, oh yes,
your readers too.

The I Love New York Double-Decker Sampler Box
Downtown Eaux de parfum  (50ml flacons), arrayed in
a lush white keepsake box (with the Bond No. 9 logo
debossed on the top) that captures the emerging
new minimalist luxury trend to a T.  This year’s
definitive holiday gift – if you can bear to part with it. 
$1600

The Scents of Saks…Regular or Crystallized
Saks Fifth Avenue for Her (gardenia, jasmine, vetiver)
and Saks Fifth avenue for him (bergamot, cardamom,
amber), each bottle revealing fragments of The new
black and white saks logo.  $185. 
This season only, saks fifth avenue for her is also
available arrayed with Swarovski crystals. $550

The Scent of Peace Takes Sparkling Flight
Our most stellar  perfume (grapefruit, black currant,
lily of the valley), in a limited – edition Flacon whose
dove-in-flight design is traced in Amethyst, white,
and opalescent Swarovski crystals.  A uniquely
shimmering statement of the longing For peace.  $470

Music to Your Nose – In Candle Form
West Side, our most melodious eau (rose, ylang ylang,
peony), in a gold-capped pillar, ready (like music) To
scent and seduce the air ($85)

The Bond No. 9-Andy Warhol Collection, Part 1
Arriving in December, the first in a series of Warhol
Foundation partnership scents, containing a
cutting-edge eau on the inside, and a selected
example of Warhol art on the bottle.  $230.





































Sniffapalooza New York City!




FragranceNet.com

Sniffapalooza at Takashimaya

At Sniffapalooza Fall Ball this year, we will once again be treated
to the famous cupcakes and tea for our visit to this wonderful
fragrance department.  To visit Takashimaya New York is to enter
a world apart. A unique commingling of Eastern and Western
sensibilities inspires the rare and wonderful designs and artisan-
made pieces culled from around the globe.

Displaying the unusual sensitivity of the Japanese towards refined
craftsmanship and beautiful packaging, and the modern
appreciation for functional design, shopping online transcends
the usual boundaries. At Takashimaya, the world is at your
fingertips.  The following segment highlights just a few of the
perfumers and representatives that will be on hand showing us
these exciting new fragrances.






Perfumery, Pop Art, and Soup
Get Stirred Up in Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory by Bond No. 9

Arriving December 1:  a new direction in the art of perfumery
and perfume bottle design.  Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory marks
the start of Bond No. 9’s series of Warhol collectibles.  Depicted
on the bottle’s surface is a graphic image inspired by one of the
pop artist’s most recognizable images—a boldly re-colored
rendition of the Campbell’s Soup Can.  Soup?  Perfume? 
Both smell sweet to us.  But an Andy Warhol perfume? 
Well, Warhol once made mention of a company that was
“interested in buying [his] aura.”  Here it is, in liquid form. 

Bond No. 9 is an edgy downtown perfumer, committed
to art and design—not just the art of scent-making, but the
visual components, too—including bottle and package design.
We’ve been amply praised for both.  But nothing has thrilled
us more than the offer from the world-renowned Andy Warhol
Foundation to develop a Bond No. 9-Andy Warhol fragrance
collection using the artist’s paintings, silkscreens, illustrations,
film stills, et al., on our package design. The idea of combining
Warhol with fragrance resonated with us.  After all, we are in
the midst of a Warhol revival, centered on a fascination with
glamour as an escape hatch for our own age of global anxiety. 
And how better to express that glamour than with fragrance?

Warhol once remarked,

“Another way to take up more space is with perfume. 
I really love wearing perfume.” 

What’s more, “for an iconic time, perfume is a way to see and be seen,” adds Bond No. 9’s president, Laurice Rahme.  (Honestly, she said those words.)  “We were attracted to Bond No 9’s creative approach to luxury perfumery which celebrates New York City,” said Michael Hermann, director of licensing at The Andy Warhol Foundation. “Working with Bond No. 9 represents a unique, unexpected, and exciting opportunity to introduce Warhol to an ever-widening audience.”

But Bond No. 9 is all about New York neighborhood scents.  So we decided the inspirations for our Warholian pop perfumes would be based on Andy Warhol’s favorite haunts.  First among them?  The Silver Factory—also known simply as the Factory.  In operation from 1964–1968, Warhol’s original studio, hangout, and club central, located in a nondescript building on East 47th Street, acquired visual uniqueness with its aluminum-foil walls.  These walls evoked silver-backed mirrors—emblems of the narcissism that suffused the
times.  The Silver Factory served as a galvanizing forum for artists, silkscreeners, actors, filmmakers, debutants, activists, hustlers, and misfits—all of whom somehow contributed to the creativity.  It was here that Warhol emerged as an avant garde filmmaker, pop art progenitor, and all-around superstar. 

The Bond No. 9-Warhol intersection   
The connecting point between the Warhol Foundation and
Bond No. 9 is New York.  If Andy Warhol was a mirror of his time,
he also reflected the vitality and creativity of his adopted city,
exactly what Bond No. 9 is about.  With the Warhol partnership,
Bond No. 9 takes it as its mission to enhance the artist’s dynamic
by connecting his vision not just with a line of fragrances, but with
another kind of artistry—that of the sense of smell, and to interpret
for today the scents of the studios, the clubs, the streets of New
York that Warhol frequented and made famous.
Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory, the fragrance

Like all the scents-in-progress that we are designing for our
Warhol repertory, this one is of ambiguous male-female gender. 
We conceived of Silver Factory as a smooth, smoky, spicy blend
of interlacing incense (a key scent of the ‘60s), wood resin, and
syrupy, seductive amber.  But just to complicate things, we gave
it a heart of jasmine, iris, and violet—a scent that Warhol was
especially fond of.  These slightly dissonant florals combine to
evoke a metallic effect—that of warmed-up, molten silver,  
And then, for the merest hint of coolness, we threw in a handful
of cedarwood.  

The visuals
The slender bottle, with a background of textured silver (so fashionable this season), displays a unique graphic inspired by the Campbell’s Soup Can design in bold colors as created by Warhol in a series of his colored Campbell Soup Can silkscreen paintings in 1965:  dissonant blocks of turquoise and purple, with the distinctive Campbell’s script in mustard yellow.  But—since this is an honest-to-goodness perfume bottle—we’ve substituted our own Bond No. 9 lettering and our distinctive Bond No. 9 logo with Andy Warhol’s name inside, in place of the Campbell’s gold medallion.  This bottle is also an example of meta-design:  the co-opting of Warhol’s artistic rendering of a world-famous soup can, and its recycling for yet another consumer product.  OK, so it’s a luxury product, (but once again it has liquid inside!)  What’s more, taking a cue from the Campbell’s label, which proclaims its soups as Condensed, we’ll be offering our Warhol fragrances as innovative 28 percent perfume concentrates—in between eau de parfum and perfume extract.  (Thank you, Campbell’s, for the hint.)

As for the Bond No. 9’s banded keepsake box:for this scent it’s rendered in textured silver, with Warhol’s signature on top.  Launch Date: December 2007. Suggested Retail Price:  $230, for 3.4oz. Available only in a 100 ml flacon, Andy Warhol Silver Factory will be sold at Bond No. 9’s four New York boutiques, at www.bondno9.comat Saks Fifth Avenue nationwide and at saks.com

About The Andy Warhol Foundation: As one of the preeminent American artists of the 20th Century, Andy Warhol challenged the world to see art differently.  The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. is a New York not-for-profit corporation established in 1987 which promotes the visual arts.  In accordance with Andy Warhol's will, its mission is the advancement of the visual arts. The Foundation's objective is to foster innovative artistic expression and the creative process by encouraging and supporting cultural organizations that in turn, directly or indirectly, support artists and their work.  The Foundation has given out over 1,700 cash grants totaling more than $70 million. For more information, visit, www.warholfoundation.org.

Click here for Saks/Bond No. 9 For Her and For Him information and reviews

Click here Review of Andy Warhol SIlver Factory by Mark David Boberick

Special thanks to Eléna Cattaf; eCommerce Marketing Manager,
Mimi Hoesley; PR & Advertising Coordinator of Bond. No. 9 New York.

Photographs courtsy of Bond. No. 9  New York


Perfumer Yosh Han
Takashimaya

Mark David:  Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your fragrance, and its History?

The Chinese character for my name Yosh means "fragrant." I began my perfuming career in 1994,
when I walked into a boutique in Aspen, Colorado with hundreds of bottles on the wall and
knew intuitively that I was destined to work there. I talked my way into getting a job there
even though they weren’t hiring (nor did I know what kind of shop it was). I learned to
identify and combine the healing essential oils and sensuous perfume essences in each
of those bottles on the wall.

I was very young at the time and wanted to travel for a bit so I moved to Europe for several
years and worked with equestrians and horses. After that, I moved back to the States and
worked in publishing and a non-profit writing center for children, that was also a pirate supply
store (founded by Dave Eggers). I thought it would be kitschy to have a line of pirate perfumes
(now sold out), like Buccaneer and Swashbuckler and Buxom (before Pirates of the Caribbean
even came out). Then I started to get commissions from artists and authors like SF Opera,
Lemony Snicket, and others. I thought that I might try to launch my own collection that
reflected more of my authentic Self so I launched my own company, YOSH olfactory sense
and created the Luxury Elements Collection a few years later. Since then, I have continued
to create custom fragrances for individuals and companies as well as produce other limited
edition and exclusive fragrances. Now my fragrances are stocked at some of the best
addresses around the globe.

MD: As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and what keeps it fresh and interesting?
Nature, art, people, conversations. Things that evoke emotions, or memories of a place and time. Fragrances can instantly remind you of an experience or a special person. I have many clients who are specifically looking to crystallize an event or memory—a special wedding fragrance is a great example.

I developed a modern practice of the ancient art of perfumery, creating signature scents
that entice the senses, fascinate the mind, and enchant the soul. My passion now is to
inspire others to really engage the senses and to learn to use olfaction as a portal to our
intuitive sixth sense. Fragrances have a profound impact on the Spirit.

MD: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests at
this fall's event?

My biggest wish for all the guests who come is for everyone to suspend what they’ve
been ‘reading’ about and smell the fragrances from their heart place and/or with their
eyes closed. Rather than going around and trying to intellectualize or deconstruct Brand
A or B, try to enjoy each experience with each vendor with a fresh perspective. Each
vendor who is participating is really sharing their Art.

When the guests come to my event at Takashimaya, they will be able to experience my
Luxury Elements Collection as a Fragrance Flight, very similar to a wine tasting. The
fragrances are presented in wine glasses to really showcase the full spectrum of scents.
I don’t use any alcohol in my fragrances so the glasses capture the olfactive action so
you can experience the top notes, middle notes and base notes all at once. It is
essentially a multi-dimensional aromatic experience rather than smelling linearly on
a scent strip or even having to wait over the course of time. The sequence starts with
a light floral and ends with Omniscent, the Bordeaux of the fragrances.

MD: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the
range and what about them do you think makes them register to so many people?

The Luxury Elements collection combines the art of perfumery with aromachology, the therapeutic properties of essential oils. Each multi-faceted scent is hand-crafted and blended by Yosh using the finest ingredients from all over the world, then assigned a numerical value that corresponds to the fragrance family and resonates with principles of Chakra energy and numerology. This collection of fragrance embraces subtle energies as a way to more fully enjoy the vibrational power of perfume. The fragrances in the Luxury Elements Collection incorporate Yosh’s personal philosophy of spiritual connection and energetic alignment with a core message to bridge inner beauty and outer beauty together.

I would venture to say that each person has at least four personalities (or more).
Public persona, how you are with friends and family, and if you like to spend
alone time (that’s me),and then your alter ego. I think many people are shy to
venture from their signature scent or maybe they’re in search of the perfect scent,
but I really believe that it’s important to nurture each of your personalities
and moods with different fragrances.  This collection is not just a sampling of
scents—it’s a full wardrobe of perfumes. Winter and summer scents have different
weights and textures just as textiles do, and a sunny day scent has an entirely
different appeal than a sumptuous evening perfume. But these scents do more than
respond to changing climates—they also have the power to set moods and
capture passing fancies. Soft, sensitive moments call for a fragrance evocative of
dreamy landscapes; whereas flirty, playful whims demand a scent that is enchanting
and glamorous.

MD: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the
newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to
in the New Product/Release department?

WINTER ROSE

Winter Rose is a limited edition botanical fragrance. Inspired by my travels through Turkey, I created this aromatic odyssey. It evokes dreamy landscapes filled with lush textures and colors, spices from the markets, mysteries of the desert caves and ancient ruins, and glorious roses from Isparta.  Winter Rose resplendently captures the beauty of roses with a tinge of cardamom. Limited Edition of 250. Takashimaya is one of the few retailers to stock this very special fragrance. For those of you who are specifically looking for all natural, this is an absolute treasure.   There will be limited samples available for take away. (Please choose one favorite). You will also receive a special gift sachet with other goodies inside. For those who resonate with the fragrances, please ask about chakra blessings. And if you’re lucky, you might get your aura fluffed.      www.eaudeyosh.com
Montgomery Taylor Fragrances
Takashimaya

Scents by New York fragrance designer, Montgomery Taylor, were
featured in September 2007 at the New York Botanical Garden’s Rose
Garden Dinner/Dance.  The event began in NYBG’s Peggy Rockefeller
Rose Garden at sunset.  The Garden is a living library of more than 3,000
roses, including 600 varieties of old garden and shrub roses, hybrid teas,
grandifloras, floribundas, miniatures, and climbing roses… a virtual heaven
to the enthusiasts of such glorious wafts.  Later the same evening, guests
of this magnificent gala were treated to Mr. Taylor’s scents for men and
women provided at the dinner tables.

Montgomery Taylor continues to identify his products in the “niche market”.  In addition, he maintains an artisanal approach by offering hand poured fragrances and hand poured candles.  Crowning his artisanal treasures is a hand made perfume bottle which he creates himself.  For his women’s fragrance, Ambra di Venezia, Mr. Taylor lovingly prepares each flacon in New York for his discerning customers.  He perfected his glass-making technique in Venice, and hence the name.  His perfume, Ambra di Venezia (Amber of Venice), is inspired by the color of Venetian sunsets with their glowing reflections on the city’s waterways and palaces.

Continuing his passion for Venetian glassblowing, Mr. Taylor plans to release a new
series of perfume flacons next year.  The new edition will feature an array of different
exotic hues to complement the bright yellow-amber bottle he currently produces
for his fragrance.  Again he will sign and number each new bottle, part of the limited
edition just as before.

When we interviewed Montgomery Taylor about his love of scent, he recognized that
the industry emphasizes aesthetics in packaging and bottle design.  These, he
maintains, are definitely important in any fragrance presentation, but the blend
of the essence itself comprises his paramount concern.  In his opinion, the process
of developing a fragrance is somewhat parallel to how he views the art of good
wine-making.  In fact, his personal memories of collecting and savoring wines
with his father support his philosophy that “the label and bottle are important, but
second to how the product is made!” 

In his creative process he makes a distinction about his title.
He calls himself the fragrance designer, because he also relies
on the expert opinion of a “nose” to complete his work. 
That “nose” is Rayda Vega, a New Yorker who has a long
and rich tenure at both IFF and Quest.  He hastens to acknowledge her
talent in the perfume world, and attributes her professional hand in both his
Ambra di Venezia and Paratus scents.

Pictured below are views of Mr. Taylor in the atelier inflating a “gather” of molten glass which eventually becomes his “ambra” perfume bottle.   It is notable that the molten material he is working with is drawn from a furnace at temperatures around 2,300 degrees Fahrenheit! Perhaps this is the epitome of that phrase, “a labor of love”.

Montgomery Taylor perfected his glass making
technique in Venice.  He lovingly prepares each
flacon in New York for his discerning customers.
His Ambra di Venezia fragrance, and
its original bottle are inspired by the amber
sunsets of Venice with their glowing reflections
on the city’s waterways and palaces. Handblown
in the atelier each flacon is one
of a kind, signed and numbered.

Ambra di Venezia.  A blend of French narcissus, jasmine,
mandarin orange, lime, sandalwood and mango...

http://www.montgomerytaylor.com
Marjorie Kitzrow of Marjorie Midgarden Fragrances -Summersent
Takashimaya

MD: Can you tell us briefly about your Company's History?

The fragrance concept grew out of a dinner conversation in June 2003, when
a friend described a mysterious fragrant blossom in her garden to Marjorie
Kitzrow, the company's founder. After Kitzrow smelled the fairytale bloom
at the Chicago Botanic Garden, the name and vision of the Summersent
brand immediately came to her mind. Kitzrow created Marjorie Midgarden
Fragrances, an independent prestige fragrance company out of Evanston,
Illinois and after three years of development debuted the Summersent
Parfum and brand. Since then, the brand has also expanded to an Eau
de Parfum, Body Cream and now a Body Lotion.

MD: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the
range and what about them do you think makes them register to so many
people?

The Summersent Parfum is the most popular, not only for its
distinctive scent but also the beautiful, ornate packaging. The scent
registers so well with many people because the scent often evokes
special memories to them. Many people when smelling the scent
often say "it reminds me of." Women especially register with the
brand because Marjorie had a woman's beauty, individuality, grace
and intelligence in mind when creating the collection, wanting every
woman to feel she's receiving a special gift when using her products.


MD: What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza guests
at this fall's event?

Marjorie is most excited to share the story behind her brand as well as the 2 new
products in the collection - Summersent Body Cream and Summersent Body Lotion!

MD:  If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department?

The new Body Cream and Body Lotion - both products contain great anti-aging
ingredients and ingredients that soothe the mind and body.


SUMMERSENT
the fragrance of a dream

Introducing Summersent, an ethereal floral fragrance based on a fairytale,
mystical bloom.  Designed as a celebration of beauty, intelligence, grace, vision
and individuality, Summersent is a tribute to femininity.

The inspiration for Summersent is a rare, guarded flower never before used in the
fragrance industry.  The robust scent of the secretive flower bloom is blended with
heart notes of Italian jasmine, Moroccan orange blossom, cassis flower and genet
for a rich floral bouquet.  A light infusion of mandarin provides a sparkling top note. 
Fresh petal “greenness” enhances the magical quality of the scent and a blend of
white musks intertwined with a honey nectar accord provides a haunting dry down.

Housed in an exquisite glass bottle with sparkling hand-applied Swarovski crystals,
Summersent parfum is capped in a crystal dome for optimal pulse point application.

Marjorie Kitzrow, part poet, part muse, part fragrance visionary

The road from bloom to bottle has been a remarkable journey for
Summersent founder, Marjorie Kitzrow. The fragrance concept grew
out of a dinner conversation in June 2003, when a friend described a
mysterious fragrant blossom in her garden. After Kitzrow smelled the
fairytale bloom at the Chicago Botanic Garden, the name and
vision of the Summersent brand immediately came to her mind.

Kitzrow created Marjorie Midgarden Fragrances, an independent
prestige fragrance company out of Evanston, Illinois and after
three years of development debuted the Summersent fragrance and brand.

With over 30 years of experience in brand marketing for companies
on a national and international level, such as Citibank and Reuters,
Kitzrow’s in-depth expertise as a marketing strategist, designer
and writer has allowed her to conceptualize and orchestrate branding
campaigns, product launches and market positioning programs, earning
her reputation as an image maker and revenue builder.

Her background, coupled with her experience as an entrepreneur, puts her in a prime position to handle the creative, marketing, sales and operational challenges inherent to a new business venture into fragrance. Kitzrow has accessed a lean and effective team of trusted vendors to produce the Summersent collection, including her creative and production professional team with whom she’s worked with for over 20 years.  And so it stands to reason that the zenith of Marjorie’s long and creative career should come in the form of her own fragrance of a dream: SUMMERSENT      Retail Prices: Parfum 1/3 oz. $150 ;  Eau de Parfum 2 oz., $90

SUMMERSENT is the first launch from Marjorie Midgarden Fragrances LLC, an independent prestige fragrance company conceptualizing, creating and marketing fine fragrance and related fashion products through premier distribution channels.  Summersent is available at Takashimaya NYC, Von Maur stores, and www.vonmaur.com


Ulrich Lang
Takashimaya

Anvers and Anvers 2 are the first in a new line of fragrances by
Ulrich Lang New York. Lang, a former L'Oreal executive, combines
his love of contemporary photography with his passion for fragrance
in these timeless and enveloping scents. Anvers is named after
the Belgian town of Antwerp, which is fast becoming one of Europe's
'It-destinations' among the style cognoscenti. Both fragrances
successfully combine masculine notes with florals, to create a unique
and subtle aroma.

Mark David:  Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your fragrance,
and its History?

Ulrich: My background is in the cosmetics industry and in the
contemporary art world. I used to work in marketing for L'Oreal in my
native Germany and in the art publishing arena in New York. I have a
passion for both contemporary photography and fragrance so it was
natural for me to combine both passions.  For anvers, which launched
in 2003 we picked a "model" to represent the line - Roger Szmulewicz, a photography dealer in Antwerp (French: Anvers) who was photographed by New York based Erik Swain. Roger was a perfect choice to represent the subtle and introspective anvers scent and we decided to put him on the packaging. Earlier this year, we came out with anvers 2 which is completely different from the first anvers. It's a Floral Oriental. For this fragrance we photographed Roger in a park setting in Antwerp. Katy Grannan who shows with important galleries in the US and frequently shoots for The New York Times Magazine perfectly captured the quiet and intimate nature of anvers 2 in her photograph. 

I find a lot of inspiration in contemporary art and photography as well as on the streets of New York City which has been my home base for over a decade now.I also get inspired in Berlin which reminds me of what New York used to be. It's cool, edgy and has this incredible history. For peace and quiet I love the countryside around Stuttgart, Germany where I am from. It's calm and quiet there and it helps me focus on new concepts and scent ideas. Going back and forth helps me not to get stuck in a rut. I always bring back a big bag full of ideas and inspiration from my travels.

MD: What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza guests
at this fall's event?

I am always excited when Sniffapalooza comes around again!  Similar to my
business which started very small a few years ago I have seen Sniffa grow
bigger and bigger. It's so encouraging to see how niche fragrance has come
a long way and how more and more people appreciate the little guys out there.
I am excited to see all my Sniffa friends and welcome them with a spritz
of anvers 2 to kick off the colder season!

MD:  If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the
newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in
the New Product/Release department?

Both anvers and anvers 2 use a lot of florals combined with more masculine notes.
anvers 2 combines Jasmine, Geranium Leaves, Violet with Cedarwood and Leather
whereas in anvers 2 Mimosa, Lily, Bulgarian Rose are juxtaposed with Blond Woods
(Sandalwood, Cedarwood). anvers is sexy and women love it on their guys. I hear it's
a great dating fragrance....anvers 2 is very different in nature. Every time I wear it it feels like an invisible cashmere scarf wrapped around me. It opens fresh but the drydown is soft, warm and I like to describe it as "snuggly".Lucky Magazine called it "androgynously seductive" and it does have the qualities of a "shared fragrance" - both men and women can use it. Smell for yourself.  Mum's the word for 2008. But the Sniffa members will be the first to know (as usual!). I look forward to seeing you all on October 20th at Takashimaya!!

anvers and anvers 2 available at the following New York retailers: Takashimaya, Barneys,New York, Aedes de Venustas

www.ulrichlangnewyork.comphotographs courtsey of Ulrich Lang

Aurélie Kahn
Campos de Ibiza
Takashimaya

The Brand :
Campos de Ibiza is known for its elegance and timelessness on
the island of Ibiza.  The scents are inspired by the Mediterranean
and made from the island's finest ingredients.  Used in the
purest tradition of countrymen recipies, they become the
masterpiece of the fragrances.Their names are whispered to
preserve their exclusivity.

For more than a quarter of a century, the collection has captured
a hint of Ibiza in eliciously elegant and refined fragrances.
Since only few years, the fragrances are proposed outside
the Island in order to respond to the evergrowing demand of
international Ibiza's lovers.

The fragrances are sold now in the most exclusive places
worldwide (in the US in Takashimaya, Henri Bendel)

The company:  It is a family company  installed in an old finca (tipical Spanish farm) lost in the middle of Almond trees. They have an elegant store in the most exclusive place: Marina Botafoch, where all national and international Vip are going since always.

The daughter of the owners, Aurelia, has started to export the brand outside the island and position Campos de Ibiza has "The Spanish Niche Brand" in order to give a good image of Ibiza which is, along with parties phenomenon, a marvellous Island (the Jewel of the Mediterranean sea)

The product line:  Eaux de toilette declined in 6 fragrances : Mandarina (fresh); Cedro (for Men);Agua de Rosa (a floral :  not pure Rose, let's say Rose in the Garden; Jazmin (Fresh and Sweet); Essencias de Higo (Fig)and Flor de Almendra (Almond Flower)

The most successful and popular in the Us is Essencias de Higo. All Fragrances are declined in high level candles and coffret soaps

Inspiration:  All fragrances are inspired by the countryside of Ibiza (Campos de Ibiza means the countryside of Ibiza)which is very rich in citrus, almond trees, flowers etc etc... 100% natural, the products respect the spirit of the rich and beautiful nature of the island of Ibiza.

http://www.camposdeibiza.com/eng/


Takashimaya BECOMING, MAIN FLOOR
Our world of fragrance and cosmetics is well-selected with miracles of  science and nature and we are poised to help you save from this wealth of resources. Now is the time to replenish your favorites.  Saturday, October 18-20. Receive a $25.00 discount on any cosmetic purchase of $100.00 or more.
Bergdorf Goodman's Sniffapalooza

Tom Crutchfield
ANNICK GOUTAL, ETRO, ASPREY, YU, JUDITH LEIBER

We at Sniffapalooza, absolutely adore the ONE & ONLY, Tom Crutchfield.

Tom, can you tell us briefly about the different lines you represent?
ANNICK GOUTAL, ETRO, ASPREY, YU, JUDITH LEIBER

What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the
range and what about them do you think makes them register to so many people?

THE MOST POPULAR SCENT IS THE ONE THAT MAKES
YOU SWOON AND GO ALL BUTTERY. BECAUSE IT IS ALL ABOUT YOU!

What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza guests at
this fall's event?

TIME WITH THE SNIFFA'S-TIME IS OUR MOST LUXURIOUS GIFT AND THEIR SPENDING TIME WITH ME IS A VERY GREAT GIFT!

If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department?

JUDITH LEIBER, HAND-PAINTED ANNICK GOUTAL PETIT CHERIE BOTTLE (EXCLUSIVE TO BERGDORF-GOODMAN AND ONLY 70-EACH SIGNED AND NUMBERED) WITH SWAROVSKI CRYSTALS- TOO FABULOUS FOR WORDS!


Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien
Eau d'Hadrien, the most sought after Annick Goutal Fragrance, is a subtle combination of bold citrus notes which evoke the heat of the Mediterranean sun and the coolness of the shade of a lemon tree.  Inspired by the emotions of the 5th century Roman emperor depicted in Marguerite Yourcenar's novel "Memories of Hadrian."

Asprey
Asprey Purple Water Eau de Cologne represents style, refinement and quality; British classicism expressed with
a modern spirit.  Founded in 1781, Asprey is still today the ultimate authentic British luxury lifestyle house. 
Purple Water uses on the finest essential oils.  It is a fresh citrus fragrance blended with spicy undertones to give it added strength and stature.

Etro Dianthus
According to an ancient legend, the Dianthus - also known as the carnation - was born from the falling tears of a shepherd who was hopelessly in love with the goddess of "the hunt." This flower of the gods and symbol of passionate love originally comes from Zanzibar, an island off the eastern coast of Africa with magnificent beaches and a historical stone town.
Dianthus by Etro preserves the memory of the bloom's exotic homeland, transferring the mind to a garden full of colorful bouquets that never wilt and know no winter.  A spicy floral with heterogeneous, yet harmonious notes, Dianthus is perfect for both day and night.

Family: Spicy Floral, Descriptives: Fresh and Citrusy, Spicy and Woody

Leiber Fragrance
Introducing the signature fragrance from luxury accessories house, LEIBER. 
An ultra-feminine and sensual scent.  Sparkling top notes mingle innocently at
the heart of a floral bouquet. The unexpected finish introduces warm, woody notes. 

Yu
Yu takes it's name from the Chinese word for rain - the precious
drops that sustain our natural world. Mane, a fourth-generation French
fragrance design house, unveils Yu, a museum-quality, opulent
floral, created from the world's most rare and precious flowers. 
Only 500 bottles available worldwide - each with a hand-etched number to
reflect its value as a collectible work of art.  From it's lavish juice to its
alluring sensual bottle design, every element of Yu has been touched
by a master in his or her craft to re-define luxury. 


Special thanks to Clare Loughran & Tom Crutchfield.
photographs courtsy of Gary Farn Ltd


Hermès of Paris
Emmanuelle Brard
 
Can you tell us briefly about your Company's History?

In 1837, Thierry Hermès, harness-maker, set up in Paris. With the arrival of cars, the founder's grandson,
Émile Hermès, launched a line of fine leather goods and luggage with "saddle stitching". And thus, the Hermès
style was born. Today, Hermès is active in fourteen crafts: Leather goods, scarves, ties, men's and women's
ready-to-wear, fragrances, watches, diaries, hats, gloves, footwear, enamel, art of living, tableware and jewellery.
Born in 1951 of an encounter between Émile Hermès and Edmond Roudnistska - the great perfumer and creator,
its first expression was Eau d'Hermès, inspired by the scent of leather. In 2004, Jean-Claude Ellena joined Hermès
as perfumer to the House, and has been directing our olfactory creations ever since. A craftsman of beautiful materials
and an artist of emotions, he carries out his passion with precision and freedom. He infuses his creations with an
intensity and imagination that make them unique, and reinvents nature to create the exceptional.

MD: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about
them do you think makes them register to so many people?

24, Faubourg: The name is very parisian, the shape of the bottle which is the scarf (very Hermes) and scent,
of course, very smiling and colorful. - Eau des Merveilles: A new vision on our Brand, the chilhood feeling
(stars on the bottle, colors...) - Eau d'Orange Verte: A classic scent, sparkling and invigorating freshness. Made for women and men. -
Terre d'Hermes: The modernity of the bottle very rooted Hermes and high singularity of the scent.
 
MD: What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?

To introduce our newest fragrance Kelly Caleche, a floral perfume brushed by leather's blossom, created by our in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena.
 
MD: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department?
 
They can look forward to the inspiration of the fragrance, the uniqueness of the scent and the playfulness of the bottle.

Special thanks to Emmanuelle Brard of Hermès of Paris
Fendi
Ingrid Gonzalez

Since 1925, Fendi has established its Headquarter in Rome, and this belonging to the city has nourished its profound soul. Fendi is the power of women. This give the brand a specific feminine view on luxury and fashion. Many products have been done by women and for women.  It started  with Adele, wife of Eduardo in 1925, then the 5 Fendi sisters, and today Silvia Fendi, who invented the famous Baguette bag which was a stellar success around the world. In 1964, the 5 sisters decided to revolutionize the Fur and call upon Karl Lagerfeld to lead this new approach. He designed the FF logo in 1972. It became an international success. Fendi Palazzo more than a name, a statement. The New Generation Fendi fragrance. A woody floral fragrance with an exceptional character of Mandarin Orange, Bergamont, Bulgarian Rose, Patchouli and Gaiac Wood. The bottle has a unique and statutory opulent sophisticated, rounded baroque cap as a crown jewel. Its ancillaries give the skin its hydration, non-oily with a delicate scent. Its luminous and opulent fragrance with a unique signature that give women feminity self empowered assertive and that Nothing is impossible.

We are very excited to be part of SNIFFAPALOOZA.

Special thanks to Ingrid Gonzalez, Fendi Fragrance

Estée Lauder
Donna Muzio and Olga Shifan present exclusive compacts and the Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia.

Donna Muzio: Estee Lauder was founded in 1947, started by Estee herself. It has grown to be one of the largest cosmetic companies in the world.

MD: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what
about them do you think makes them register to so many people? 
Some of the most popular fragrances in the business are PLEASURES, and Beautiful.
They resonate with consumers because they evoke memories of beautiful days spent relaxing
on a beach, perhaps, or walking into a forest after a rainshower.

MD: What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?
I am most excited to share the Tuberose Gardenia perfume as well as the Perfume solids minitures
and the Powder Compacts.  These are wonderful works of art that can be used or displayed in ones
own house. They are a beautiful and wimsical way of presenting perfume!

MD: What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department? 
Estee Lauder has 2 new fragrances :Pleasures Delight and the Tuberose Gardenia Fragrance.
Plus, a new collection of solids and compacts for Holiday 2007.

Donna Muzio/Estee Lauder at Bergdorf Goodman NYC
1-212-872-2741  Estee Lauder counter: 1-800-558-1855 Ext 2741

Review of Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia

Special thanks to Donna Muzio and Jessica Malone of the Estee Lauder Group
Photographs courtesy of Estee Lauder Group NY

A HAUNTING PERFUME

By James Dotson

   In a remote region of Romania, in the delicately spired summer castle of Pelisor, once lived the beloved “Saint Queen” Marie, granddaughter of Queen Victoria.   When she wasn’t artfully draping herself against leopard skins, composing fairy tales, or heaving massive bouquets of lilies to her dramatically veiled face, she managed to design much of the interior of her castle in a curious mixture of Celtic, Art Nouveau and Byzantine styles.  Her favorite room was the lushly ornate Gold Salon and this is the room that she chose to lavish with her mystical violet perfume both while alive, and long after she was dead.  According to the tale of a faithful family servant, Gyuri, Queen Marie had first received the violet attar in a gold bottle dusted with sapphires and brilliants, as a gift from a mysterious maharajah who also gave King Carol many of the teak furnishings in the salon.  This rare essence of Indian violets became her favorite fragrance for many years.
  
   Nearly ten years after her death, in May of 1948, a committee of communist officials from Bucharest arrived at Pelisor, intent on cataloguing the decadent monarchy’s treasures, planning to remove and sell them to liberate the funds for the good of the people.  On that day, as they opened the doors to the Gold Salon, the walls began to ooze with the heavy scent of violets, which then drifted down to fill every floor of the castle.  In a panic, armed guards were sent scurrying from room to room to locate this perfumed intruder.  But the spectral violet would appear and abruptly disappear from one room to another, playing a cruel game of cat and mouse with the increasingly pale and terrified bureaucrats.  Later, it was decided that it would be best to preserve Pelisor as a museum.

   Queen Marie is not the only scented ghost, though arguably the most glamorous.   In fact, the presence of supernatural odors is a fairly common aspect of hauntings and other paranormal phenomenon.  The general rule is that the ghost produces something that they were truly passionate about during their life:  19th century gentlemen favor fine cigar smoke, Dolley Madison permeates the Octagon House in Washington D.C. with her favorite flowers (lilacs), and the presences of the Winchester Mystery House produce the aroma of chicken soup.  Unfortunately, the meaner sorts of poltergeists which throw furniture about the room tend to like to blast out smells of rotting and charred flesh.  That is why it is better to stick to the classier haunted castles like Pelisor.

Have a Happy and Haunted Halloween,

JAMES DOTSON
Tom Ford
Kathryn Jourav

MD: Can you tell us briefly about your Company's History?
In just one year, Tom Ford has launched 16 distinctive olfactory fragrances in 18 countries worldwide, setting the stage for Tom Ford Beauty to become an internationally recognized fragrance house. 

MD: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about them do you think makes them register to so many people? 
We’ve had record breaking sales with each new launch, but at the moment, we are pleased to say that Tom Ford for Men is number one, not only for Tom Ford Beauty, but across the entire men’s fragrance category.

MD: What are you most excited to share with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?
Tom Ford for Men and Voile de Fleur are the two newest editions to the Tom Ford Beauty collection, and we look forward to sharing these with the Sniffapalooza guests for the first time.

MD; If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the newest scent or product possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department? 
We are launching a very special limited edition men’s scent in November.  The scent will have its first public exposure during the Bergdorf Goodman breakfast on October 20th.

Special thanks to Kathryn Jourav, DIRECTOR OF TOM FORD BEAUTY

Christopher Brosius Perfumer
At Bergdorf Goodman

Mark David: Christopher, can you tell us briefly about yourself, your Product Line, and its History?

I've been making perfume now for more than 15 years.  i've always been independent and am entirely self taught: a natural
born nose.  i am given to understand this is very rare.  since i couldn't really find a fragrance that i enjoyed wearing
(and a good many fragrances made me very sick and a lot still do) i began by making a rather new kind of "perfume".
these were based on natural smells from the real world and were designed to capture very particular kinds of experience.
my work still follows that same idea.  for nearly a decade, i worked to build a library of individual smells - those that capture
the reality of life often in a startling way.  while it was certainly useful to bottle the scent of anything that caught my attention
(from the smell of rare orchids to the almost undetectable odor of snow) building such an olfactory vocabulary was somewhat
akin to reading the dictionary - informative to a degree but not terribly interesting.  so in 2004 i left my old company and began
again here.  my mission was to focus on the storytelling aspects of perfume - to use the words that i had made to express
the experience of life.

my work was included in the cooper hewitt national design museum's triennial show in 2003.  this marked the first time in history that a perfumer was recognized as designing scent.  this was a great honor (and very surprising) but it made me realize that remarkably few people really understand how perfume is made and that its process of creation is taken largely for granted.  so when i opened my gallery to the public part of it's purpose was to share with people some of the process of where perfume comes from.

i do show a ready-to-wear collection of perfumes but i also have on display three to four hundred individual accords and perfume materials.  these range from entirely synthetic smells (like "burnt rubber" or "crayon") to extremely rare & expensive natural floral absolutes.  often visitors can see my assistants blending & bottling perfumes pretty much as was done in the 18th century or i myself working to compose a new scent.

my work is about exploring the art of perfume & the experience of scent.  while the perfumes i create tell very special stories, the experience is always unique to each individual who wears them.  that to me is the most fascinating aspect of perfume.

MD:  As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and what keeps it fresh and interesting?

"inspiration" is a curious word.  it means "to breathe in" but it also refers to that spark which is the beginning of all creative endeavor.  as a perfumer, i find that word particularly compelling.  my perfumes are always inspired by a first breath that brings a certain smell to my attention.  often noticing a smell will suddenly click with ideas i've gathered from books, paintings, music, film or life in general.  it's a very synchronistic process.  and since i am breathing all the time, then on some level i am always working...at the moment i am most fascinated by the smells of the forest & the sea.  maybe this is because i've been looking a lot at the work of andy goldsworthy (definitely one of my favorite artists) who works only with materials he finds in nature.  or possibly it's because those smells are the exact antithesis of my life in new york which is one of the most unnatural places on earth.  i realize though that this is somewhat a difficult question for me - i've never really thought about keeping my work "fresh or interesting".  i just do what i do.

MD: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?

i don't think there's anything specific - i just enjoy meeting the group.  there are so many interesting people
and it's so fascinating to talk with them...

MD: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what
about them do you think makes them register to so many people?

"at the beach 1966" is definitely one of my most popular perfumes.  i'm certain that's because it does
so perfectly capture an experience that everyone loves.  and while my recollection of that day at the beach
can't be the same anyone else's, the scent is still a lovely retreat into memory for us all.  it's a kind of
pleasure that even the most beautiful abstract perfumes can't match.

MD: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the newest scent or product
possible. What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department?

just for the fall/winter season, i'm showing "wild hunt" at bergdorf's - this perfume is exclusively available
there and here at my gallery.  "wild hunt" is the "forest" perfume from my archetype collection - this is a
series i've been working on for several years now and which i really find fascinating.  it's all about capturing
12 primal smells that inform all modern perfume.

initially "wild hunt" smells just like being in the heart of an ancient forest on a hot summer afternoon. 
but with time as one wears it, it deepens into a note that is very much like a classic french chypre -
suddenly one realizes where that classic composition may have originated.  it's an extraordinarily
complex perfume and very difficult to compound.  still i absolutely love forest smells and "wild hunt"
is one of my own personal favorites.

Thank you Christopher! We look forward to seeing you-Rapahella

James Dotson review of Wild Huntcb i hate perfume


Miryana Babic
i Profumi di Firenze

Guest speaker at Sniffapalooza

Miryana Isabella Babic founded her international
distribution company Isabella Imports to blend her
appreciation for beautifully unique objects and her
love of world travel with her passion for essential-for-
health luxury of the finest organics. Miryana is an
artist who takes inspiration from Italy's natural
beauty and art treasures. Commissioned by
illustrious trustees of world-renowned museums to
conceptualize and select corporate and personal
gifts, she has collaborated with Hermes, Tiffany & Co.
and Asprey. She discovered the Florentine perfumery,
i Profumi de Firenze during one of her painting
excursions in Italy.  While seeking a new signature
fragrance for herself in Europe, she came upon this
jewel of a perfume shop in the renowned Renaissance
city and immediately knew this was her "Holy Grail"
of scent. Realizing the historical significance of the
scents, the recipes of which go back to the 16th
century and include Catherine de Medici's secret
formula, she introduced the fragrance collection
to the U.S. market in 2003.

Currently she is designing new fragrances for
the i Profumi di Firenze collection with the house's
perfumer to complement the over 30 all-natural scents
that Isabella currently distributes at Barneys New York
stores, Beautyhabit.com, C.O. Bigelow, Fred Segal,
New London Pharmacy, Cornelia Spa and luxury retailers throughout the U.S. 

This Fall i Profumi di Firenze launches three new fragrances-

Muschio Bello
A mystical blend of white flowers, aromatic orientals and spices of the East.
This "Beautiful Musk" includes sensual notes of amber, incense, jasmine
with a whisper of patchouli and coriander.

Terra di Siena
(Exclusive to Beautyhabit)
i Profumi di Firenze's newest creation is as elegant as its inspiration of Sienna's Palio race.
A gorgeous confluence of aromas arrives on the eve of the pageantry with feasts throughout
the city's distinguished contrades (districts). This fragrance for men and women replicates
the magic of the moment with top notes of bergamot and mint; heart notes of Florentine
lavender, cumin, cinnamon, orange blossom and a seductive woody finale of sandalwood,
cedar, tonka bean and vanilla.

Magnifico 9 Peperoncino
(Exclusive to Beautyhabit)
From Lorenzo di Medici's 16th century recipe. This spicy, passionate and unisex regal
fragrance resonates with cayenne pepper, cardamom, clove, basil, neroli, black violet,
Italian cypress and Himalayan musk-it will heat you up all winter

Mark David: Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your Product line and
its History?

I have always loved traveling, and I have a knack for discovering gorgeous, unusual
items that would receive raves whenever I returned to the States. I also have been a
perfume fanatic since a child. Of course this started with both my grandmother and
mother (my business partner too!) who had vast fragrance collections. My mother
gave me a bottle of Joy (pure perfume) when I was a freshman in college, and I
remember the first time my severe college French professor smiled. It was cold
wintry morning and my black cashmere jacket was slightly wet from the snow melting
on it. This released the perfume into the ether of the warm classroom and as my
professor sniffed the air hypnotized as he approached the coat rack, he exclaimed
with a mesmerized look of bliss "Whose jacket is this?" After that, I could do no
wrong, and I also realized the power of fragrance. Sure in high school and college when
I wore a sexy scent, guys would compliment and follow. But in this case I got a
persnickety on-my-case professor to change his view of me. It was visceral and magical.
I had transported him to another realm. What brought me pleasure every morning when
I laced my wrists with Joy was shared in a powerful moment. It is these scent moments
that extend beyond Proustian memory travel that illuminated an alchemy that I knew I
would one day want to be involved with and in my case would bring all my interests
together.  I went on to study archaeology in Greece and painting in Italy. It was during
one of my painting trips in Italy that I decided to look for a new fragrance for myself
and that is when I discovered i Profumi di Firenze. I returned to the U.S. with a few
handwritten bottles, and when the buyer at Fred Segal stopped me at a party to
admire my fragrance and then a Conde Nast Beauty Editor did the same the next
day.I thought.hmmmm, maybe I can start that import company I always dreamed of
forming.

i Profumi di Firenze was founded in 1966 by master Florentine perfumer Giovanni di
Massimo. In that year a cataclysmic flood devastated Florence, and when Dr. Massimo
was cleaning out the mud and mess from his Medieval basement, he unearthed a
Renaissance manuscript that not only contained several of Catherine de Medici's perfume
recipes but other scent formulas of the Florentine nobility. (This fall Beautyhabit.com will be
releasing Lorenzo de Medici's peppery spice fragrance named after his sobriquet "Magnifico"
and based on a formula in the manuscript.) The collection of over 30 fragrances originates
with the launch of Catherine de Medici's perfume formula. The scents are handcrafted with organic botanicals.
Contemporary additions are inspired by the period's high caliber techniques of Florentine perfumery.

I recently began collaborating with i Profumi di Firenze to create scents based on personal sensory memories which has also been a theme in my paintings. Last winter I debuted Miele Rosa which is inspired by the bathing rituals of the ancients. I wished to create an aromatherapy-
type of perfume that conveys the sensuality and luxury of a honey, milk and rose petal bath. I have always loved the smell of honey, freshly cut roses, elegant spa treatments, baths with flickering candles, the sound of water lapping against marble and such layered experiences that
bring all the senses together. Because of my love of history, I wished to pay homage to this royal feminine tradition creating a personal perfume to soothe, allure and heighten the senses.

MD: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall event?

We have the largest number of new releases than we've ever launched in one season with quite a range. from a 16th century Medici formula, Magnifico 9 Peperoncino, to a contemporary creation, Terra di Siena, by Alesandro Morsiani, the House perfumer, both Beautyhabit exclusives. I am thrilled that Sniffapalooza guests will be some of the first to experience the fragrances. Beautyhabit has put together a lovely packet with samples of all the new scents including Muschio Bello and Miele Rosa to be given out at next weekend's Sniffapalooza.

MD: What are some of the most popular fragrances in the range and what about them do you think makes them register with so many people?

Vaniglia del Madgascar, Caterina de Medici, Ambra del Nepal and Costa Mediterranea are our best sellers. Mirra, our new myrrh scent, is also up there. We have developed a loyal following for the varied scents in the i Profumi di Firenze collection. The high quality of the organic botanicals, the craftsmanship, handmade nature, and romantic history are many of the reasons our customers find our fragrances so compelling. I also believe that there is a bit of alchemical magic in the way the fragrances are not only alluring but have aromatherapy qualities that are soothing, comforting, calming and centering. It is when we are centered that we are most attractive, and our customers recognize this. I hear back from many of our fans about how many compliments they receive when wearing their i Profumi di Firenze scents and that is very rewarding!


Beautyhabit.com
www.isabellaimports.com

Photographs courtsy of Miryana Isabella Babic


See our Beauty Habit
article below


Aerin Lauder, creator of Tuberose Gardenia
The Very Best of Aedes de Venustas
By Mark David Boberick


When Karl Bradl and Robert Gerstner opened
Aedes de Venustas (Latin for Temple of Beauty) in 1995,
they probably had no idea that one day their small basement
store would become the go-to destination for extraordinary
fragrances and scented products for fashion designers,
magazine editors and a long list of celebrities. Today,
this small Christopher Street boutique plays host to an
elite array of the most fabulous scents in the city; many
are exclusive to Aedes and are found nowhere else in the
United States. 12 years later, Karl and Robert are still
searching the world over for that next perfect, exclusive,
once-in-a-lifetime fragrance. The final stop on our Sniffapalooza
Fall Ball tour, this truly is a temple to the perfume Gods.
The list of products and perfume lines reads like a whos-who of Olfactory Elite. 
Here are some of my favorites…

Coming from the heart of the Cognac region of France, Pierre Frapin’s 1270 is a mélange
of intoxicating accords ranging from fruity notes of dried plum and apricot to gourmand notes of
coffee and chocolate. This scent wears much the same way that a cognac tastes to a tuned palate
as it is sipped and savored. 1270 is savory with a touch of warm, comforting spice. From the moment
one puts it one, a statement is made - a statement of refined elegance with a playful attitude and a
yearning for something a bit unusual. The drydown of soft leather and luscious woods is in a word –
breathtaking.

From perfumer Marc Antoine Corticchiato, Parfum d’Empire gives us a range of regal fragrances
inspired by History. From the gorgeous Ambre Russe with its initial subtle blast of vodka that settles
into a creamy, smoldering amber infusion with opulent leather to the voluptuous bouquet of Empress
Josephine that is Eau Suave, a rose garden in full bloom with sensual spices all around it hit by the
blinding sun. Parfum d’Empire recently released 3 new scents that are on everyone’s to-try list,
Equistrius, Bengal Fougere, and Osmanthus Interdite that will continue this royal around-the-world
olfactory journey.

Serge Lutens released Rousse in the Spring of 2007 and I immediately thought – this is the
wrong season to release a smoldering scent that features cinnamon and clove. I still think I was right,
but that does not diminish the beauty of Rousse. If you first tried Rousse in the spring and quickly
dismissed it – I urge you to reconsider this gem now that it is fall in New York City, for it is when
this fragrance will truly captivate you. By description, this scent was everything I did not want in a
fragrance – so it was particularly astonishing to me that I turned out to love this scent so much –
especially because I was quite ready to hate it. I don’t. It quickly skyrocketed to the top of my
must-have fall scents. Perhaps the chill in the air and the smell of the leaves in the park will
change your mind just enough, and allow you to embrace the journey that Rousse will take
you on.

From the perfect Mariage Frères candles to their very own AdV body exfoliators and line of
Anthousa and L’Artisan home fragrances, Aedes de Venustas is a delightfully overwhelming
experience, an experience that would most benefit from a to-try list – if you don’t get to try
everything you want to, Karl and Robert are most generous with samples and offer superior
service both online and over the phone for orders placed after Sniffapalooza.

Visit www.aedes.com and start making that list!

Floris London

Debra Courtright presenting

MD: Can you tell us briefly about yourself, your Product Line,
and its History?

In the ultra-competitive world of fragrance, Floris London’s superior
expertise in creating distinctive scents for men, women and home since
1730 has insured the unique position of this rare family-owned company.
Remarkably, Floris is still the oldest perfumer in London with the family
now into its eighth generation.  Floris designs its scents for individuals
searching for contemporary style and individuality and the reassurance
of a strong brand heritage.  

Our product line for women includes eau de parfume, eau de toilette,
bath and shower gels, moisturizing body lotions, body creams, luxury
soaps, conditioning shampoos.  For men, it includes wet shaving
products, soap bowls, wet brushes, aftershave splash, aftershave
lotions and eau de toilettes.   Our home product line features
candles and room sprays.

MD: As a perfumer, where do you find your inspiration and what keeps it fresh and interesting?

This question was recently posed to Edward Bodenham, the son of John Bodenham and an eighth generation member of the Floris family, and his answer was as follows:  “Throughout the generations of this unique family business, Floris’ inspiration has come from historical events, influential customers loyal to our fragrances, but most especially from the heritage handed down from our founder Juan Famenias Floris and the traditions he began back in 1730. We have never created a fragrance based on what is trendy-and never will.”  

MD: What are you most excited about sharing with the Sniffapalooza guests at this fall's event?

Floris is excited to share the incredible news about the discovery of many of their old fragrance recipe books that had been lost or missing.   Now that we have these lost treasures back, fragrances are currently being developed and refreshed for modern fragrance lovers, and they’ll use the exact same measuring tools and equipment pieces from the early years of Floris.  Floris has a passion for history, tradition, and quality and freshness of fragrance.

MD: What are some of the most popular fragrances and/or products in the range and what about them do you think makes them register to so many people?

Probably Cefiro, Elite and Seringa, with the common alluring factor between them being the citrus elements that carry an invigorating, refreshing and clean scent. Also, Floris’ men’s fragrance Santal has a captivating note of patchouli, which women love on their man and sometimes wear themselves!

MD: If there is one thing a Sniffapalooza member loves - it is to try the newest scent or product possible.  What can our guests look forward to in the New Product/Release department?

No. 89 for men, which reigns as Floris’ famous James bond fragrance, will have its full product line available by May 2008.  And for those who enjoy full luxury, the Floris flagship store in London has hired a bespoke perfume expert to create custom fragrances for the discerning client who will also be developing several new Floris scents to complement the current offerings.


WHO KNEW?
I am a lover of Roses, so who knew that there was a rose mouthwash? Mark David Boberick
was kind enough to point this out to me-RB

A Rose Mouthwash by Floris London.

A few drops diluted in a tumbler of warm water will provide a refreshing mouthwash.
This concentrated blend is formulated with Rose flavour oils and pure Rosewater.

The Buzz around town is that the Sandalwood and Patchouli Candles are fabulous as well.


Floris London
Lafco New York

Highlights of LAFCO New York

By Mark David Boberick

Always on the cusp of fabulousness –
LAFCO New York has a reputation for
bringing us a wonderful trove of imported
scented luxury products. This includes,
but is not limited to, the exceptional
products of Santa Maria Novella from
Florence. This Pharmacy has been in
business since 1612 and offers a
staggering collection of colognes
and products ranging from Iris toothpaste
to Almond foot cream and Potpourri to amazing, rose infused liqueurs.

One of the best-selling products from the line, and certainly one of my favorites, is the Melograno Colonia.
This fragrance mixes the tart taste of the pomegranate with an insistent, powdery floral undertone and is
perfect for day or night, and for men or women. It is elegantly comforting and also manages to be
comfortingly elegant. The Melograno line is one of the largest in the Santa Maria Novella collection
which also includes Men’s after shave balm, bath oil and salts, shampoo for dry hair, powder, and
candles as well as one of the most glorious soaps one could ever use. Their soaps, which are made
from all natural whole milk and are aged for 2 months are by no means a best-kept secret of the line
– in fact they are one of the most praised products in the collection and can be found in a vast array
of scents including Iris and Musk.

LAFCO also features the Le Sirenuse Eau d’Italie range which first began as products the
Le Sirenuse hotel in Positano offered to their guests. Eventually, the products became
so popular that they decided to sell them in their hotel and fortunately for us, at LAFCO
as well. Their signature scent, Eau d’Italie was recently named one of the best unisex
fragrances by Allure magazine and continues to be one of LAFCO’s best sellers.
Perfect for fall from the range is the scent Bois d’Ombrie which is a smoky warm wood
fragrance that really radiates and produces some amazing, subtle sillage.

Recent Prix Coty award winning perfumer Lorenzo Villoresi’s line of stunning fragrances
is also featured at LAFCO. The latest Villoresi scent, Alamut is a warm and sensual
journey right out of 1001 Arabian Nights. The exquisite floral top notes of rose and
jasmine meld into even more glorious florals in the heart such as Narcissus and
Tuberose and eventually come to rest on a warm amber and musk base with exotic
woods. There is a slight powdery feel to this fragrance from start to finish, but I urge
powder-haters to try it anyway – you may be pleasantly surprised.

LAFCO is a fabulous destination teeming with luxuries for everyone. For a list
of products in the Santa Maria Novella, Eau d’Italie, and Lorenzo Villoresi
ranges, as well as a complete listing of their other lines including their superior
home fragrance collections, be sure to visit their website at www.lafcony.com






Crazylibellule & The Poppies
Anne-Cecile Duputel
AT SNIFFAPALOOZA


Introducing Crazylibellule & The Poppies..."Oh yes...it's you smelling so good!"

"It's amazing how such a small perfume can evoke, arouse..."

Imported from Paris these delightful solid perfume scents are 5 grams of pure happiness!
Wear them in private or public, on your neck, around your navel, behind your knee,
anywhere and anytime, again and again. Wear one or several,  create your own blend,
or add one to your favorite perfume. 

Sold only in prestige beauty stores in Europe, Crazylibellule is quickly leaving its
imprint on US fragrance afficianados!


Crazy Libellule & the Poppies Reviews by Kathy Patterson

Although “Crazylibellule & the Poppies” sounds like a fashionably big-shouldered
girl group from the 80s, the quirky name is actually that of a line of French perfumes.
Isabelle Masson-Mandonnaud, original founder of mega beauty chain Sephora, and
the splendid noses at Givaudan developed this creatively-packaged collection of concrete parfums.  There are twenty-one scents (so far), seven each in three themes--the romantic Les Divines Alcoves, the gourmand Poule de Luxe, and the mysterious Oriental Shanghaijava.  The clever lipstick-swivel style tubes each contain .17 oz/5g of solid perfume, ready to apply all over the body, to layer with other scents, and to pop into a purse or pocket to carry anywhere.

Despite the low price-point--$16—Crazylibellule scents are impressively rich, well-crafted, and are fairly long-lasting while on the skin.  Here are my impressions on four of them.

Les Divines Alcoves
“Aux Anges” (On Cloud Nine)
Notes: bergamot, tangerine, ylang ylang; jasmine, white flowers
A bouquet of white flowers accented with a squeeze of citrus.  The jasmine is strong, with a bit of soon-fading acetone-like quality in the opening; the citrus is very light and serves as a non-competitive counterpoint to the bold floral notes.  Together they work well, producing a sweet but not overwhelming summer bouquet.

Les Divines Alcoves
“Dans tes Bras” (In Your Arms)
Notes: juniper berry, pink berry, peach, cedar, patchouli, amber, musks
The box describes this one as “sandalwood-spices,” and it’s is a lively mixture of woodsy notes accented with a subtle bit of fruity sweetness from berries and peach.  The sandalwood note (although not listed, it’s definitely there) has a bit the soft skankiness that sandalwood can have, making the fruit seem riper, sexier, and reminiscent of the plummy woodsiness of a classic hard-to-find favorite, Feminite du Bois.

Shanghaijava
Lilas Spiritual
Notes: clove, lilac, lily of the valley, vanilla
A lovely and romantic blend of floral and vanilla, this is a clean and innocent scent that reminds me of childhood laundry days in the Spring.  Bees swarmed the lilac bush, heavy with fragrant purple blooms, as we pinned the freshly washed sheets redolent of sweet-smelling fabric softener on the line.  This combination of notes is unexpectedly delicious, although neither spiritual nor as mysterious as something from a line called “Shanghaijava” should be.

Shanghaijava
Encens Mystique
Notes: clove, cedar, incense, myrrh, benzoin, musk, patchouli, vanilla
On the other hand, this scent lives up to its line’s intention of Oriental evocation.
Quite different from Lilas, a dry and mysterious, even church-y, incense is the star
of this fragrance.  It’s not cold and imposing, as I find some incense-based scents
to be, because it is spiced with clove and warmed by notes of myrrh and vanilla. 
Completely lovely, and highly recommended for incense lovers.

http://www.crazylibellule.com/
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