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April 3, 2008
Sniffapalooza "Spring Fling" New York City!
VIVA LA SNIFFA, BABY!
Spring Fling is here again, filled with world class perfumers, new exclusive fragrances to sniff and new friends to meet. The excitement is high as perfumista's fly in from all over the world to attend the incredible two-day fragrance extravaganza. As we approach the Spring Fling, we also celebrate the first year anniversary of Sniffapalooza Magazine that I created and founded one year ago. We have many wonderful surprises and news in this issue so have fun reading.
Due to last minuet space and time constraints, some reviews will appear in the next issue.
Henri Bendel NYC
Isabela Capeto
Isabela Capeto at Henri Bendel's for the Spring Fling Sniffapalooza.
Isabela Capeto has also personalized/customized only a
couple of bottles of her NEW frgarance to be sold especially
on April 12th for Sniffapalooza members. We are the first in the world
(outside of Brazil) to smell her new fragrance, pictured here.
For her debut in the perfume world, prestigious Brazilian fashion
designer Isabela Capeto wanted something as original and
unexpected as the clothes she is so well known for. For this project
so close to her heart, the obvious partner was Perfumaria Phebo,
the creator of Brazil’s first fine fragrance in 1930 and the producer
of Isabela’s favorite soaps.
To satisfy this desire of a truly innovative perfume, Phebo called in
Carmita Magalhaes, from the French perfume house Mane, who
spent extensive time with the fashion designer exploring all aspects
of her personality, memories, tastes and passions. The result is an
exotic, irreverant, contradictory fragrance that surprises wherever it goes.
The perfume is an elegant potpourri of rare essential oils that evolves from
spicy, warm, gourmet notes of cardamon, bay leaf and pink pepper into sweet,
singular, feminine cinnamon, apricot and Brazilian lily accords.
Finally, the scent deepens into its uniquely sexy, exotic signature with an
unexpected harmony of cool, masculine vetiver with warm,sensual cedar,
amber, sandalwood and white musk. Such an unusual fragrance could
only be packaged in a quirky, exclusive bottle inspired by Isabela’s logo.
The fragrance was created by perfumer Carmita Magalhaes of Mane.
Winner of the Worldstar worldwide design award for best perfume packaging
in 2007, the button-faced red doll pays a tribute to Isabela’s constant
inspiration in her childhood and the extensive use of embroidery
throughout her collections.
Isabela Capeto’s perfume is available in a 30 ml bottle or as a set
of 3 soywax candles. The products can be found in Brazil at her boutiques
and at the Granado stores (owner of the Perfumaria Phebo brand).
In the United States, they are exclusively available at the
Henri Bendel store in New York.
photographs courtesy of Isabella Capeto
Bergdorf Goodman's
Fracas de Robert Piguet
Celebrates 60 Years of Style
Fracas burst upon the perfume scene in 1948. The fragrance masterwork of French couturier Robert Piguet brought to life by the legendary Germaine Cellier, Fracas was inspired by the liberation of Paris, the return to freedom, and the strength and endurance of the feminine character. Today it remains the memorable and bewitching fragrance signature of women of style and a certain allure.
Sixty years after its launch, Fracas is still the most coveted of fragrances; provocative, yet pure, quintessentially modern yet redolent of another, more glamorous time. The scent is an intoxicating combination of tuberose and lush white flowers.
To punctuate this special occasion, the brand is pleased to present the 60th Anniversary limited-edition Fracas keepsake box and collector’s item. Opulence and splendor spotlight this special edition.
Topped with an expertly hand-polished crystal stopper, the signature black glass Fracas parfum flacon is elegantly presented in a sleek black lacquer box lined with pink satin. A luxurious black enamel purse spray (containing .25 oz. of parfum) and two .25-oz. parfum refills delicately showcased in the case’s vanity drawer complete the lavish presentation.
With only 500 pieces issued, each bottle and box is individually numbered and each set features a numbered certificate of authenticity marked with a commemorative 60th Anniversary seal, making this a true collector’s item, destined to be cherished for years to come.
Joseph Garces, president of Robert Piguet Parfums, will unveil this special item to the public for the first time during the Sniffapalooza event on Saturday, April 12, 2008 during a presentation at Bergdorf Goodman in New York City.
A stunning treasure for lovers of Fracas and fragrance collectors alike, there will be a limited number of editions available for purchase during the event. (Suggested Retail: $525.00)
Bergdorf Goodman
Creed Fragrances
Creed Reviews
by Christopher Voigt
ROYAL SCOTTISH LAVENDER
Royal Scottish Lavender is mysterious. Mysterious like the man for whom it was created: George V, King of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland etc. From the name, one would expect a harmless, one-note eau de cologne. Instead, you get a trip back in time.
Balmoral, the Scottish castle and estate from which the scent takes its inspiration, is less
a place than a psychogeography.
As it was for his mother
Victoria after the death
of her Albert, Balmoral
was for George V a refuge
from the pressures of
London and Buckingham
Palace. It allowed for country
pursuits in relative isolation,
as few of the aristocratic set
would venture that far north.
Royal Scottish Lavender,
commissioned by George
in 1900 when he was still
HRH Prince of Wales,
succeeds at evoking the
place itself: the lavender
which wafted through the
casement windows, the
precious Mysore sandalwood
which scented the soaps in
the royal bath, the vanilla of
the tea biscuits.
CYPRES MUSC
Meet Yosh Han at Takashimaya
Luxury Elements Collection
Fantasy Flights-What do you notice first when you encounter a fragrance? What lingers with you and how do you describe the experience? Perfumer Yosh Han invites you to a Fragrance Flight, an olfactory equivalent of a wine tasting that will delight and enlighten perfume connoisseurs. Take an aromatic journey through a full spectrum of scents from Yosh’s Luxury Elements Collection, and arrive at a new appreciation of rare botanicals and evocative essences.
Each fragrance from Yosh Han's Luxury Element's Collection corresponds to chakra energy and numerology. Aromatic Attunements balance and harmonize your energy fields.
The Y O S H Luxury Elements collection combines the art of perfumery with aromachology, the therapeutic properties of essential oils. Each multi-faceted scent is hand-crafted and blended by Yosh using the finest ingredients from all over the world, then assigned a numerical value that corresponds to the fragrance family (such as floral, fruity, green, woody, and spicy) and resonates with principles of Chakra energy and numerology. Chakras are energy centers in our bodies according to yoga philosophy. Each perfume has a specific chakra that it resonates with to balance and enhance optimal well-being. Numerology reveals certain character traits in each person and can be used to determine lucky days for major activities in life like travel, moving, marriage and investing. This collection of fragrance embraces subtle energies as a way to more fully enjoy the vibrational power of perfume. The fragrances in the Luxury Elements Collection incorporate Yosh’s personal philosophy of spiritual connection and energetic alignment with a core message to bridge inner beauty and outer beauty together.
This collection is not just a sampling of scents—it’s a full wardrobe of perfumes. Winter and summer scents have different weights and textures just as textiles do, and a sunny day scent has an entirely different appeal than a sumptuous evening perfume. But these scents do more than respond to changing climates—they also have the power to set moods and capture passing fancies. Soft, sensitive moments call for a fragrance evocative of dreamy landscapes; whereas flirty, playful whims demand a scent that is enchanting and glamorous.
White Flowers 1.41
White Flowers is the essence of eternal love captured in a bouquet of all white flowers: gardenia, tuberose, freesia, lilac, sweet pea, and narcissus. Unlike other floral perfumes, this fragrance has a clean, green finish accomplished with hints of pettitgrain and Siberian fir. It’s a classic floral with modern finesse. Delicate, sophisticated, and elegant.
Perfumer’s Notes:
White Flowers is a complex floral fragrance with a green finish. People often ask me what that means. It means that there are many white flowers in this fragrance but, unlike other floral fragrances, this perfume does not linger nor become sweet or cloying. Instead, it has a green finish, which is like a wine with a dry finish. When you smell this fragrance, you notice how complex the floral notes are and then notice that fresh finish. The fresh finish comes from the pettitgrain and Siberian fir, which give this fragrance the feeling of an immense bouquet of freshly picked flowers. I originally created this scent to honor the white flowers in a wedding bouquet, but it has become much more than that. When you wear this fragrance, you might feel transported outdoors. There’s a natural aromaticquality to it that smells great on men. You might think it would be too floral, but, on men, the green notes come forward and the floral notes fall back. It’s wonderfully fresh, but also complex and sophisticated. I fall in love with this fragrance over and over again because it never fails to surprise me.
i Profumi di Firenze New Fragrance's
Miryana Babic will be at the Spring Fling luncheon on April 12th.
She will be debuting her two latest scents for us.
Dolce Amaro
Serene and mysterious as Mona Lisa's smile, this white floral musk opens gently with neroli and Italian bergamot. Heart notes include a lush bouquet of jasmine, passion flower, lily of the valley and a Damascus rose. The drydown is delicate and woody, with whispers of vetiver and vanilla orchid. The perfume exudes a contemplative yet timeless innocence that is clean, deep, and lyrically romantic--like the "dolce amaro" (bittersweet) reminiscence of first love.
Notes: Neroli, Bergamot, Damascus rose from Tuscany, Passion Flower, Lily of the Valley, Jasmine, Vetiver from Java, Vanilla Orchid, White Musk
$89 Exclusive to both Barneys and Beautyhabit.com
Brezza di Mare
This dazzling new fragrance uncannily captures the salty airy freshness of a pristine sea breeze. The blend was inspired by i Profumi di Firenze master perfumer Alessandro Morsiani's passion for the sea. He spent a year meticulously crafting just the right blend that would conjure the serene magnificence of sailing on the Mediterranean. The scent opens with top notes of Bergamot and sea salt from the Calabrian coast. Freshly picked lemons and limes from the seaside cliffs of Sicily are touched with a whisper of watermelon to create this perfectly effortless scent for spring and summer.
Notes:Bergamot from Calabria, Sea Salt, Sicilian Lemon, Sicilian Lime, Citron and a hint of Watermelon.
$92 Exclusive to Barneys New York, Release Date: April 9, 2008
Anje new Fragrances
de Lavande
It begins with warm sun and the gentle summer breeze. In the distance you almost
hear the Provincale sheep and the gentle hum of contented bees. An intense feeling
of calm and wellbeing overtakes you. You smile as you are enveloped in the rich herbaceous
scent that permeates the air. It is clean, powdery, soft and slightly green with just a hint of
wood and spice. Stretched before you is the most spectacular vision of beauty. Breathtaking
sun drenched mountains juxtaposed by a turquoise blue sky giving way to row after row of
deep rich purple budded fields as far as the eye can see. Could this be heaven you wonder?
The scent of the lavender harvest is captured in deLavande. Designed around a heart note of
three distinct lavenders and set in a luscious base of smoky vanilla almond woods.
deLavande contains the world's purest lavender oils from Provence, Bulgaria and of course from our own spring fed organic farm in Carmel Valley. deLavande is as perfect for her as it is for him. If you feel drawn to Lavande, life is encouraging you to breathe deeply, speak your truth, slow down a bit and relax. The ingredients in deLavande are known to strengthen and balance the entire Chakra System especially the throat, solar plexus and crown chakras. deLavande was sent to Patrick Dempsey after he requested a fragrance from Ajne because Anje will be in his new movie "Made of Honor" which is out in May.
PAMPLEMOUSSE
Olivier Creed’s first fragrance is a vision of summer, an abstract portrait of a day spent outdoors enjoying all of the jewels nature has to offer. The groves, the flowering bushes, and the smell of sunlight. It is Vivaldi’s Summer, only bottled. The tart grapefruit opening is instantly refreshing but where this fragrance really succeeds is in the interaction between citrus and white floral, especially the gorgeously creamy mimosa. A staple in many a wardrobe, this is a fantastic, more refined classic fragrance. The ambergris in the base ensures this to most certainly be part of the rich, CREED family.
CREED gave this special fragrance as a gift to U.S. troops at Walter Reed Army Medical Center in Washington, D.C. when they came home from wars in Iraq and Afghanistan.
New at Takashimaya
THE PINK ROOM
Meet Sarah Barton-King at Takashimaya
And The Country Cafe luncheon
After operating a wholesale business for eight years and a retail business in London for two and one-half years, Sarah Barton-King of The Pink Room is now servicing her client base from New York. Sarah originally sold her accessory designs of shoes, bags and scarves into the world’s leading prestigious retailers in eleven countries through about forty luxury stores. These included Barneys (NY & Tokyo), Saks Fifth Avenue and Nancy & Co in New York, as well as Nordstrom, The Tiny Jewel Box, Stanley Korshak, the 24 Collection and Neiman Marcus, in other cities. The client list has included Liberty of London, Harvey Nichols, Harrods, Le Bon Marché, Victoire, Apostrophe, Joyce Hong Kong and others in Australia and Singapore.
Then it was time for The Pink Room to debut in London’s Notting Hill. Sarah’s ‘petite Versailles boutique’ opened, winning The Draper’s Record award for new small shop and many other mentions. It soon became a centre for the fashion cognoscenti, stylists and press who featured many of her designs in their own style books The Pink Room also attracted a visit by Anne, HRH The Princess Royal and substantial press attention, with over 45 articles and TV interviews in the last two years.
Sarah began testing The Pink Room Parfum No 1 in her shop in London's Notting Hill in 2000 and quickly took it to the next level, with votives and tumbler candles using the pure perfume essence. She is now debuting her newest fragrance, The Pink Room Parfum Pour Toi, taking both fragrances into a complete 'collection' of products, enabling most everyone to enter the dream. “I’m a designer. Everything inspires me, excites my imagination. My business is to create products that inspire others to dream. My perfumes are a culmination of textures, colours & emotions, They are dynamic and eidetic.”
PARFUM No1- A quiet, soft, silky, intriguing and powerful perfume, created to the following brief from Sarah Barton-King to Guy Robert, to complement the creative philosophy of The Pink Room. “Imagine Marcel Proust having tea with his aunt in the garden at about four, As the sun becomes more gentle, the old roses start to give off their bouquet, Lime cuts across, taking away the cloying sweetness, some bergamot to give a mellow richness also some jasmine, a little violet and vanilla for the petite Madeleine. Not too heavy, not too rich”. Guy is a genius and became Marcel Proust for a moment!
Top notes are citrus with fruity nuances, Middle notes incorporate some rich floral tones of jasmine, lily of the valley & violet. Base notes are woody, spicy and fruity, with hints of vanilla, moss and musk.
Product of France. A range of Parfum No 1 skincare and bath products are now available. A portion of Roller Ball sales is donated to Breast Cancer support.
Sarah Barton-King collaborated with one of the top perfumers and blenders in Grasse to bring you: The Pink Room PARFUM POUR TOI. An exciting,
‘stop you in your tracks’ fragrance. Smoky, flirtatious, Sassy and sexy, yet with a certain vulnerability.
Acknowledging the great writer Colette, this story is about
the Gigi in all of us. She starts naïve and becomes the
sophisticate, smoking cigars and drinking champagne.
A little coy. Passionate, I want to be my own hero, I listen
and dance to my own inner beat. I still have that ‘tomboy’
inside my heart and now I’m going on my adventures to
show the world the kind of woman I can be, a woman of
the world, what I can be and what I can do. I love to dream,
but want reality. I am you – the world is my oyster!
I love Colette – she looked like her cats. Her flirtatious
naughtiness and yet sensitivity, Passionate about life
and learning. Her love of her mother Sido and her garden.
The notes in this parfum are reminiscent of her childhood
memories in the garden with the flowers ylang ylang, roses,
lily of the valley and trees in bloom the sweetness of the
wood after a rainfall. Her mother’s baking. Rich vanilla,
blackcurrant, lemon, grapefruit. The smokiness of a cigar
with a Musk ending. We all fantasize and dream. That is
what the blender did, with a smile of amusement!
Top notes: Lemon, Blackcurrant, Grapefruit, Heart: Rose,
Fleur de Melati, Lily of the Valley, Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla,
White musk
Product of France. A range of ‘Parfum POUR TOI’ skincare
and bath products will be available shortly. A portion of
Atomizer sales is donated to Breast Cancer support
SARAH BARTON-KING is President & Creative Director,
The Pink Room Design Studio Inc. Since she founded the
company in 1989 and created the Orford and Swan brand
for wholesale sales to top stores and boutiques, Sarah
has been responsible for the design and sales of its’
scarves, accessories, fragrance and other products. She
has researched her subject, initially based on the French
Decorative Arts, working with museums, private collections
and her own extensive collection of documents.
Appearing at Takashimaya
New Septimanie Perfumes
Pavillon des Fleurs
Septimanie Perfumes Pavillon des Fleurs Niche perfumer
captures the scent of a romantic garden in a luxurious white floral perfume. Septimanie Perfumes, an independent luxury perfume house founded by a garden designer, is launching a sensuous white floral fragrance, Pavillon des Fleurs, inspired by the ethereal scent of a nocturnal garden. Underpinned with jasmine absolute and ylang, notes of orange blossom, Lily of the Valley, English leather and Iris, and a barely suppressed hint of cloves, it bears a striking resemblance to flowers in full bloom.
“A luminous and refined fragrance, laden with aphrodisiacal notes of Egyptian jasmine and Comoran ylang, elevated and brightened with elegant notes of orange blossom, English Leather, Iris and Lily of the Valley. Designed to conjure the sublime experience of the fragrant garden and achieved with great quantities of natural absolutes, this sonata of white flowers pleases and delights with the aroma of living flowers.”
Septimanie Perfumes was founded in 2006 by garden designer Jeanne Weber. She resides outside of Philadelphia and her gardens can be found on both coasts.
Luminous and supremely sensual, Pavillon des Fleurs is a radiant bouquet of white flowers. Laden with Egyptian jasmine and velvety ylang-ylang from the Comores Islands and refined with ethereal notes of lily of the valley and orange blossom, this tmeless composition is elegantly rounded off with sophisticated notes of iris, English leather, and a delicate hint of cloves.
What am I smelling?
Egyptian jasmine and Comoran ylang. Both are heavy, sensual, aphrodisiacal notes and together they have a remarkable effect. Refined notes of Orange Blossom, English Leather, Iris and Lily of the Valley elevate and brighten the composition which resembles nothing so much as a garden in full bloom.
What was the inspiration?
I design pleasure gardens. The fragrant garden is sublime, and particularly so in the evening. I sought to create an irresistible and intoxicating bouquet of floral notes which would perpetually lift my mood and that of others around me, much as a garden would.
What’s behind the name Septimanie?
Septimanie, Comtesse d’Egmont Pignatelli, was the Daughter of the Duc de Richelieu and lived at Versailles during the reign of Louis XV. Despite being a ravishing beauty, she was celebrated more for her intellect and her support of key figures of the enlightenment, including Mozart and the philospher Rousseau.
What is the image on the box?
A fanciful 18 C. garden pavillion designed for the brother of Mme de Pompadour, the Marquis de Marigny, by Michel Barthelemy Hazon which sadly was never constructed. These confections functioned as a retreat for the nobility from the strict etiquette of the French court. Regrettably, only a handful of them have survived to the present.
Pavillon des Fleurs is available in 50ml Eau de Parfum priced at $110.00, and will be joined by a scented body cream and dusting powder set with swan’s down puff in the fall.
NOTE FROM RAPHAELLA:
Due to time constraints, a full review and interview of Septimanie Perfumes Pavillon des Fleurs will appear in our next issue. Pavillion des Fleurs is a stunning fragrance. There are so many white floral fragrances appearing on the market and as a collector of "white floral" fragrances, sometimes you pause. I myself have become quiet jaded with so many new releases on the market, the majority of them incredibly uninspiring.
Pavillon des Fleurs is my new inspiration. I am so happy I was allowed a sample of this and cannot wait to meet Jeanne Weber. If you love white floral and beautiful fragrances, this is it. You must try a sample and it is definitely a "full bottle worthy" purchase. Truly unique, it smells very expensive and rich, without appearing overly sophisticated and cloying. I have never smelled a fragrance that was so green, in combination with the white florals; like a burst of spring and is true to it's own press release. It smells just like a garden.
Jeanne Weber is to be congratulated in producing such a beautiful fragrance on the first try, an enviable feat that many do not accomplish. It is simply scrumptious. More later on this, as we want Jeanne to tell us more!
Jeanne Weber will also be appearing at Aedes Sunday Spring Fling. (see next page)
Welcome to Sniffapalooza Jeanne.
Yosh Han
If seeing is believing, fragrance is feeling. What do you think people mean when they say, “I smell a rat!” or
one of my personal favorites, “I smell a winner”? The French verb “sens” means both to smell and to feel.
This is why I’ve chosen to work with olfaction as my artistic medium. Since breath is involved,
we are actively intaking an experience—both tangible and intangible. This is why olfaction has
a profound effect on us, physically and psychologically. Aromatherapy refers more to the immediate
physical effect of aromas, while aromachology captures the psychological affect of aromas. I’d like
to introduce now a new word to describe what happens to an individual when you smell something
and feel it at the same time (both physical and psychological): trans-aromation. As your senses are
transported by scent, you are transformed. Think about a time when you smelled something and
had a déjà vu experience. It triggered a memory or experience, maybe even more vivid than looking
at a photograph. A scent can suddenly burst through the fog of the everyday and take you someplace
else, someplace extraordinary. A whiff of rosemary, citrus, or eucalyptus, and the brain fog lifts—
your mind is clear.
To achieve this kind of effect, each perfumer works with a certain palette of fragrances, like a painter’s
choice of colors. Only 20% of people consider olfaction their primary sense, so evoking a mood is
more challenging with fragrances than with painting. The scents that envelop you throughout your life
become part of your experience: your aromascape, or inner landscape of scent. Your aromascape refers to your specific anthropological perspective—taking into account genetics, cultural heritage, place of birth, places you have lived, as well as your physical, psychological, and emotional context. If someone has lived in hot, humid climate, they know the smell of humidity, and know the density of air and how it carries scent. Another person who has lived in thin, dry air will have a different context for the smell and texture of air.
Through trans-aromation, you can be transported to an entirely different aromascape and discover a new sense of self. Each Y O S H fragrance is its own trans-aromatic experience.
Yosh is a sponsor of the Sniffapalooza Magazine raffle! Look for my review soon of White Flower. www.eaudeyosh.com
